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Housing - Renovation: re sealing DG units in timber frames

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorRicochet
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2012
     
    having read comments about above units breaking down i removed the beading on two at the weekend .

    Found very thin layer of 'white' material presumably silicone, on the glass unit and the tape edge loose and looser. i was unsure about the function of the tape.
    Should i cut it off before resealing in the method rec by Joiner ? (bead of acrylic on unit face and and on rebate)

    and is there a disadvantage in filling the gap around the unit with the acrylic ?
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2012 edited
     
    the tapes to stop the manifaturer/installer cutting thier hand on the edges of the glass :surprised:
    dont fill round the unit.
    Units blow if they sit in water from condensation so creating a way for the bottom bead to drain is a good idea.
    usually the unit sits on a some spacers and the bead has a lip and spacer.
    though some high spec wooden windows seem to not worry about this.

    Joiner and others will hopefully have a clearer view on this.
    cheers Jim
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2012
     
    What he said. Sealed units are either fitted using a glazing tape or using an acrylic sealer in a mastic gun. The unit should be raised up/centered in the frame to minimise the sight lines and prevent the unit sitting in water/condensation. Flat spacers should be used so that both sheets of glass are supported.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2012 edited
     
    But if the frame is damp then dry it thoroughly (with recourse to a hair-dryer if necessary) before re-glazing it. Once sealed, let the sealant cure and then, using an untrimmed nozzle on the sealant tube, put a fine bead of sealant along the top edge of the bottom glazing bead, holding the nozzle square-on to give a flat surface to that fine bead of sealant.

    We've discussed many times before the relative merits of the two glazing methods: either designing a window to drain out moisture that is expected to get in, or stopping the moisture getting in there in the first place. I'm a long-term advocate of the second method, which is pretty much on a par with the use of putty on single-glazing which worked pretty effectively for centuries - as long as it was maintained.

    Timber windows are like dogs, treat them well and they won't bite you on the ass.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2012
     
    Want to know what I did, goign to tell you anyway.

    I took the old glass out, cleaned off all the nasty old sealant, sanded and stained the frames.

    Then

    Using clear silicone sealant, glued the new DG glazing unit in place. To create a gap at the bottom, well an even one all around actually, I used the think end of clothes pegs as spacers. Two to a side. This also allowed me to straighten out the frame if it needed it.
    Once the silicone has set, I pulled the pegs out and rehung the frames.
    I used a bit of moulded timber as the external trim, with just a little but of silicone on as an adhesive. This lets any water creep out the gap.
    Two winters on and it has worked well.
    Had one failure, but that has been caused by other factors (soon to be fixed).

    Easy peasy job, hour and ten minutes per window.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2012
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea..........Once the silicone has set, I pulled the pegs out and rehung the frames.

    It's usual ST to leave the spacers/glazing blocks in place, otherwise all the weight of the DG unit is being taken by the silicone bead. Over the years the sheer weight of the units will lead to "creep". As jamesingram says don't fill the all round gap created by the spacers.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2012
     
    "don't fill the all round gap created by the spacers."

    If only because if you do they'll be a bugger to get out if you ever have to change them again!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2012 edited
     
    Good point about leaving them in, shall do that next time (on the one that has blown for different reasons).

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