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General: Silicone smoothing tool

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1 to 25 of 25

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Where can I get one of these?

    [IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/2dlr682.jpg[/IMG]

    I've had this one for more years than I can remember, it came from Screwfix then but is no longer available from them. All anyone does nowadays is the silly finger-shaped tool that makes more mess than it's supposed to prevent, whereas this one leaves a clean profile and squeeges off the excess to leave a clean margin. Excellent for working into profiles.

    Mine has had it at last, the tip starting to separate. :cry:

    It's a plastic handle and the squeegy end 'clips' into it.

    Thanks.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
  3.  
    Have you used one, Owlman?

    Or has anyone done a 'road test'?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Not personally, but I have seen one used and they seem quite impressive. The compond they are made from plus the soap solution does give a very good finish. As always straight runs are fine, it's the corners and awkward areas behind taps etc that are the problem.
  5.  
    Think I might buy one. One of the jobs that stares me in the face every day is that of caulking between the bath and tiles where a big (10+mm) gap was left between the bath and the bottom of the tile. Tile adhesion even after 24 years is excellent, so cannot take off and re-set. I have removed all the old gunge and put a temporary fillet of silicone between te bath and tile, flush with the tile surface, but need to caulk over, to a vertical height of about 20mm min with a profile something like 1960's quarter-round architrave. Can't do that with a freehand finger!
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Thanks owlman/Nick, that tool I'm looking for was always used along with a wetted finger.

    A fall-back is always the good old lollipop stick and a small bowl of water with some washing-up liquid, but nothing beat that little tool for getting into awkward places and blending the run into its neighbouring long straight run. It's one of those brilliant ideas that hardly anyone cottons onto because the poorer alternatives get all the marketing and incentives-to-stock.

    If I could find a sheet of rubber-type composite material of the right thickness I'd cut a new piece using the old one as a template. This one is "soft but strong".
  7.  
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    :crush::dinner::flowers::grouphug::heart::heartbounce::heartsabove::hugging::kiss::kissing::rainbow::threesome::twosome::whorship::winkkiss:
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Thanks Chris. Just bought two of the little buggers! :bigsmile:
  10.  
    Good stuff, let us know how you get on.

    I'll be needing a new one myself in a few months time. I've had two of them previously the first one was perfect but the 2nd. one had slightly different plastic for the blade material and wasn't just as nice to use.
  11.  
    never got on with any of these tools , its the finger/washing up/water for me , might give it a go.
    the guys that do it all day long on big sites use various home fashioned wooden implements , dowels etc.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Thanks guys, have bought one, worth a go, have had various crap ones in the past but not tried this model. Joiner can you describe soap/water technique as always willing to learn. Whilst on this subject anyone recomend a brand of silicone that lasts before it goes black with mold? (not really off topic:bigsmile:)
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012 edited
     
    Joe90, dow corning 785 , seems to last a bit longer than some, tried some clear mspolymer stuff a while back but goes to yellowish in a year,
    bit of washing up liquid in water , say 5-10% , cover finger/tool liberally and smooth over sealant , the moment you feel a drag , pull off and clean tool , re wet , start just back from were you finished , more solution the better. then leave 24 hours and rinse off.
    no washing up liquid then it's the old spit technique.
    If you doing a bath fill it up with water and leave it in while you sealant it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Thanks James, pretty much what I do already but you never know, always good to ask! Spit and finger about to be retired!.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    I'm no expert, but seem to remember that non-PVC type clingfilm (i.e. very thin polythene) wrapped around my fingertip did quite well. Haven't tried washing up liquid, so don't know how it compares to the PE cling film...
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Joe, a few years ago an Australian guy calling himself 'Uncle Knackers' posted some links on ebuild and I had a go at him for his simplistic approach, which prompted a reply from him that had me rolling about. Anyway, after an exchange of good natured leg-pulling, for a while we became internet "mates", one of those holiday romances that just tails off! :tooth:

    This is him giving a lecture on the technique of applying silicone sealant using the lollipop stick and washing-up liquid... http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xdbmxx_uncle-knackers-shows-how-to-apply-c_school
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    BRILL, I do like Aussies for there sense of humour and no nonsense approach. KISS rules

    Thanks Joiner
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012 edited
     
    Sorry to burst the bubble chaps.... but silicone is supposed to be finished as a convex NOT concave shaped bead. Otherwise it will break down quicker as the very thin edge will allow water in and start the deterioration process. Source: http://www.blissbooks.co.uk/Building-Defects/c2616/p778/BRE-Building-Elements:-Walls,-Windows-and-Doors--Performance,-Diagnosis,-Maintenance,-Repair-and-the-Avoidance-of-Defects/product_info.html
  19.  
    But I dont have a convex finger ??:neutral:
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012 edited
     
    Sound right , no buggers going to like the look of it though .
    Commercial window jobs look for nice big beads as well.
    I think getting a good steady flow out the guns makes it an easier job.
  21.  
    Nor me..takes a lot of practice: and there are convex tools available. Never got on with them myself
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    On all our refurbs I've used masking tape to define both edges, applied the silicone, used the wet finger to smooth it out and then remove the tape immediately. You will need a bin liner to put the tape into as it is covered in silicone and loads of bog roll to keep cleaning your finger with! So long as you take your time to pre with the tape guaranteed top job!!
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Useful link, Mike. Bookmarked for future reference. Thanks.

    As for the profile of the bead? Personal thing, I guess, regardless of the advice. Never been aware of any problems with a concave surface, the ones in my bathroom have been there for close on 12 years and are all still sound.

    I know a lot of the FENSA boys were always careful to leave a full bead around a window or door, with some pretty horrendous results against the brickwork. I only ever knew one guy who would make a finishing tool by drilling a hole in the middle of a length of wood and then cutting it across the hole to give a convex shape to smooth out the bead. But then I've never seen the need to go that far because once you've cut the end of the nozzle to an angle it leaves a flat finish anyway, and I never once heard a BCO mention that aspect of the finish on a job.
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012 edited
     
    Yep, agree with most of that. Except that I have seen silicone around baths come away from tiles. Though its arguable whether this is because the bead is concave, or whether the bath itself is flexing under weight and causing the damage that way. Also there's silicone and there's silicone

    The BRE book is one of the best I have come across for diagnosing and remedying defects.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    Think about how most people apply it - wipe it with a finger or tool, spreading it wide to try and get a smooth finish. The silicone on the edges is being wiped very thinly over quite a wide area. By using the drafting tape to control the width of the silicone bead you reduce this amount of very thin spread and, therefore, the amount that flakes off as the surface is cleaned. The other point is to make sure the surfaces are absolutely clean - obvious, but important!

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