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I am thinking that I should have humidity sensors that auto switch the unit to boost in every bathroom so that they switch to boost when having a shower etc and possibly another humidstat in the kitchen. Also a central boost switch downstairs maybe linked in with the kitchen one.
For me, humidistat in bathroom as you describe has been good, though sometimes annoys my other half. But we should have a lot less black mould to remove in the future, which is the quid pro quo for her I suspect.
We've discussed MHRV in the kitchen, but speed auto-controlled by humdistat rather than her might cause discord.
I can understand individual sensors if you have multiple heat exchangers, or if you zone your house, but otherwise , why split the sensors out? Get a unit that detects humidity and adjust flow accordingly, that way you avoid wiring & sensor duplication.
We have a CO2 sensor as well, which allows the unit to run at low speed most of the time. It turns it up if the house is full of people, or when the gas stove is used (lots of CO2 from this). I think they should just come with both these sensors fitted.
Summer bypass - depends if you will use it, or switch off the unit & open windows at night. We had a break in pre mvhr, so I suspect we will keep it on to avoid leaving windows ajar.
We are opening windows when not cold enough to require MHRV. When possible, seems the sensible low-tech solution.
To be clear, our humidistat is integrated with the MHRV for the bathroom, and I think that is sensible and robust.
I might in future consider a remote CO2 or second humidistat secondary sensor so that even if the room itself is OK it can help draw out remote smog and pong...
As well as the security aspect of keeping windows closed in summer, hay fever sufferers might also want to do this and let the MVHR filters catch the pollen. In that case, summer bypass could contribute to cooling, though probably not enough on the really hot nights (wonder if they'll be any of those this year...)
I put in a mannual boost switch and decided to retrofit the required sensors when I had worked out what conditions made the house in need of boost (i.e. I there are so many rooms and options I could easily have spent >£300 on sensors).
We are at building regs minimums for continous ventillation and to date the only time we've used the boost was when my other half shampooed all the carpets. We don't have a power shower etc but you would be surprised how much difference just having continous ventillation makes! No black mould whatsoever after the winter when pre MVHR this was an issue.
I have a related question. Just received a MVHR quote from "allergy plus" a HRV 10Q plus unit with their air flex pro 75 ducting (semi rigid continuous) should i have concerned with this small semi rigid duct? It only has a 63 mm ID. The drawing show some large rooms and all extracts have 2 pipes which will help but the kitchen has an extract value of 53m3/h (according to there calcs) this seems a lot of air to pass through two small pipes in 1 hour? your coments welcome on the unit also?
an02ew, if my calcs are correct, the 2 ducts @63mm dia will have a flow rate of 2.3m/s at 53m3/h. That's not an excessive speed, but you don't mention if that is the 'normal' flow or 'boost' flow. If it's 'normal', then I'd start to be a little concerned about noise at the intake shrouds during boost. Not so much of an issue when you are cooking and have the recirculating extractor fan running, but when it boosts due to bathroom humidity, then the kitchen could be a bit noisy.
Just consider that your 2 off 63mm ducts wil still only have half the area of a single 125mm duct, so velocity will be double - hence higher noise. Also, something to think about is that you may review the flow rate you run the MVHR at (once you'r living with it), as I find that the BRegs values (taken from the volumetric calc) are much greater than it need be to maintain a fresh environment. So you might possibly end up backing off the fan speeds for normal flow, but keep a good boost flow.
I considered the HRV 10Q plus (Titon unit I'm thinking of) for a recent project, and only discounted it because of the duct intake positions on the unit - otherwise I might well have gone for it.
Keep the controls as simple as possible - 4-5 simple, gradiated settings and a run back timer to the bathrooms and kitchen. (RH sensors and CO2 sensors tend to drift over time.)