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Posted By: borpinPreviously I had a simple mechanical 3 port blending valve that did exactly what you want. Mixed the cooler return with enough of the feed to get the desired temp. No fancy electronics to break - just not needed.
Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryPosted By: borpinPreviously I had a simple mechanical 3 port blending valve that did exactly what you want. Mixed the cooler return with enough of the feed to get the desired temp. No fancy electronics to break - just not needed.Manufactures name and valve type ????I presume it worked OK - so why does everyone seem to use / recommend motorised valves now??
Posted By: alecmanual valves only allow for fixed flow temperatures, when in reality varying the flow temperature is a necessary to match heat output of an emitter to the heat load of the rooms...
Posted By: borpinNo fancy electronics to break - just not needed.
Posted By: billtIt's rather ironic that, on a forum that will debate the finer points of window construction (effect on fuel consumption marginal), people seem to be willing to consider heating systems with no, or inadequate, controls - effect on fuel consumption potentially very large.Posted By: borpinNo fancy electronics to break - just not needed.Point of information - electronics are exceptionally reliable, if designed and manufactured correctly. I think the most unreliable heating components will be diverter valves (very clever design, but built down to a price) followed by pumps; both mechanical.
Posted By: alecpump life is compromised significantly by TRVS, two port valves and by passes, all giving variable loads...if given free reign i.e. constant flow, variable temperature they will last much longer...
Posted By: alecwhat do you mean a boiler loop, feeding a header?
Posted By: funcrusherAnyone with experience of fitting a mixer valve to a heat-store central heating system?
Posted By: owlmanPosted By: john_connett...........At present, the radiators have TRVs. I plan to investigate a more sophisticated alternative next winter.Is your CH zoned?
Posted By: GotanewlifeIn a high mass house, with heating on 24/7 I struggle to see why rad TRVs are 'unsophisticated' John C, am I missing something?
Posted By: john_connettI am considering is wireless radiator valve actuators and sensors. My technology of choice is EnOcean ...As far as I know, this is the first wireless, battery-less device. ..With a suitable control system it should be possible to set the house to "standby" and perhaps use my mobile 'phone to reset it to "home" so that it would be comfortable by the time I returned.Not sure how much energy could be saved. I suspect it might be difficult to justify the cost for an individual house so this would probably fall somewhere between hobby and eco-bling.
Posted By: WillInAberdeenJohn, do you have a price for the enocean valves?Not current ones. However, EnOcean stuff is typically priced for the professional building automation market and can be eye-wateringly expensive! However, some products aimed at the (German) domestic market are starting to appear such as the curiously named Telefunken Joonior (http://www.telefunken-sb.de/en/home.html). If they are pushing into the mass domestic market there is a chance that might lower prices.The Joonior radiator servo control is made by Kieback & Peter and is probably a very close relation of the K&P MD15-FTL actuator. Both use 3 x AA alkali batteries for a service life of around three years.The other player is Thermokon Sensortechnik with the SAB01 wireless valve actuator. That uses 2 x AA alkali batteries.I heard from the UK distributor that the battery-less K&P MD10-FtL-HE isn't yet available. My hope is that as 10 is less than 15 the MD10-FtL-HE might be less expensive than the MD15-FTL. However, what is described as a low-cost investment for energy-efficient room temperature control for the luxury German market may translate to something very different in the UK!I will probably get an EnOcean starter kit to experiment with the technology while keeping an eye on developments from K&P, Telefunken and others.I have not noticed any condensation problems. As it is the top floor that is typically cooler quite a lot of the heat from the to floors below takes that route to the outside world anyway. My MVHR has a humidistat which might catch some potential problems. As a mid-terrace I probably "steal" some heat from my less energy efficient neighbours too.This Englishman's house isn't a castle but is of brick construction with insulated cavity walls and has a moderate amount of thermal mass. Certainly wouldn't take three days to get from cold to comfortable. What have you got, Gotanewlife, rammed earth like this?http://peasehouse2011.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/rammed-earth-wall.html
John, do you have a price for the enocean valves?
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