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    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 14th 2012
     
    There seems to be various high cost thermal break blocks around (foamglas etc.), and then there's cheap and OK-ish 2.9kN aircrete blocks with a K value of 0.11 W/mK (dry - quite a bit worse when damp?).

    I'm considering using 3 or-so courses of 450x215x190 (or maybe x150 if I can find a suitably helpful structural engineer) as a thermal break at the base of a solid (EWI) single storey extension wall - between the concrete strip foundation and DPC level.

    It occurred to me that (given that the walls are between 2.2m to and 3.5m high) over most of their length, the walls are under negligible compressive load, and that sticking blocks of K=0.030 XPS (150x215x190?) in the perpend joins of the blocks would significantly increase the thermal performance without having to buy-in anything exotic.

    Maybe stick a ring beam (or just a series of preformed concrete lintels?) on top to "convert" back to standard stretcher-bond brickwork. Cut grooves into the XPS to provide a mortar key?

    This needs a sketch, and I'll do one in the morning (followed by a calculation in Therm if people here think it's not totally bananas)...

    So - worth pursuing, or totally nuts (I know very-little about brick and block work)?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 14th 2012
     
    I never like the notion of trying to combine structure with insulation. Keep them separate in my book.

    Build wall, insulate it clad it, carry insulation up and down to meet other insulation.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    If you replace every other block with an eps one (is that the proposal?) the blocks that are left will need to carry at least twice the load so will need to be denser increasing the U-value. There is also a problem with the brick bond as far as I can see.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: CWattersIf you replace every other block with an eps one (is that the proposal?) the blocks that are left will need to carry at least twice the load so will need to be denser increasing the U-value. There is also a problem with the brick bond as far as I can see.


    Yep. So basically 150mm at each end of the AAC block bares down onto the AAC block below. The 150mm in the middle doesn't. So, less load bearing strength, but if it's non-load-bearing and single storey, I assume that wouldn't be a problem. Bond will be weaker too as you say. Sketch to follow.

    Possibly a rubbish idea overall, but I thought it might be worth a spin...
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012 edited
     
    If it's non load bearing why use blocks at all? No roof load?
  1.  
    Why not just put insulation inside & outside the foundation walls? Below is what I'm planning.

    I'm using a combination of Foamglas & extruded polystyrene (XPS) for the sections below DPM/DPC, but you could just as well use XPS for all of it.

    David
      Ground Floor Foundation Detail2.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    U/ground 440x440 piers on pads down to reqd soil loadbearing level, shallow ground beams between, mainly avoids the problem - u/floor insul can come out under the ground beams and join the EWI. To avoid great reinf, the ground beams can be precast, or long railway ('crossing') sleepers on edge. Really, strip founds shd be a thing of the past, as should cavity walls (i.e. an outer skin as well as the inner).
  2.  
    I wasn't recommending cavity walls, this is just an example.

    However, as you raise the subject, I don't see why cavity walls should be a thing of the past, I don't see any great advantage to EWI over cavity wall for new build and not a single person I've spoken to has said that EWI is cheaper than cavity wall for new build. As the Denby Dale house has shown, as long as you get the details right, the cavity wall can meet the Passivhaus standards using well known & understood materials & construction techniques.

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughnot a single person I've spoken to has said that EWI is cheaper than cavity wall for new build
    Fair enough, but hard to believe - I think you've provided figures on this in the past? As the inner skin and the EPS is basically same either way, we're saying that all the extra dig/muck away, extra found width - footprint in fact - plus the masonry outer skin and expensive wall ties, all add up to cost less than the render coat on EWI.

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughusing well known & understood materials & construction techniques
    IMHO, cavity walling pushed to these wide-cav extremes is a new and far-from-familiar animal.

    Agreed, if you must have rubble stone facing, as at Denby Dale, then no alternative (so far). Anything less e.g. brick, even ashlar stone, can be veneered onto EWI.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    This is a sketch of what I had in mind (below ground only, EWI above ground).

    + XPS considerably higher thermal resistance than 2.9kN AAC block
    + XPS does not degrade appreciably in damp conditions (allegedly)
    + Thermal resistance ~30% higher (need to run a calc - that's a guess)

    - Longer construction time (since XPS blocks must be site-fabricated)
    - Probably needs more (expensive) calculations to prove it'll work for my case than the money saved by using perinsul or similar instead

    I suppose what I was hoping for was someone to say "oh yes, this has been tried by X, and here's where they published their calcs". Still, for someone with a larger job on, it might be worth considering...
      blockwall-xps-infill.png
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughusing well known & understood materials & construction techniques
    IMHO, cavity walling pushed to these wide-cav extremes is a new and far-from-familiar animal.


    For my case, as I'm building off chalk, I can do a block-width foundation using the info directly from England+Wales Building Regs Approved Document A (page 35). So 150mm wide concrete strip.

    With a wide cavity, with 2x 100mm leaves, and 200mm insulation this would go up to a 400mm wide foundation.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughWhy not just put insulation inside & outside the foundation walls? Below is what I'm planning.


    Yep, that's what I had in mind too, I was just toying with ideas for increasing the thermal resistance downwards.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: TimSmallThermal resistance ~30% higher (need to run a calc - that's a guess)
    One part in 4 = 25%, max.
  3.  
    Posted By: TimSmallFor my case, as I'm building off chalk, I can do a block-width foundation using the info directly from England+Wales Building Regs Approved Document A (page 35). So 150mm wide concrete strip.

    With a wide cavity, with 2x 100mm leaves, and 200mm insulation this would go up to a 400mm wide foundation.
    You can't build up to the edge of a concrete strip foundation; you'll need 100-150mm concrete either side of the blockwork. You'll also need to dig out sufficient earth to allow the EWI to continue down to strip foundation level & to face it with 50mm of paving stone or similar. So there'll be around 200-300mm less concrete width due to absence of outer leaf & around 50mm less trench width due to using paving stone in place of outer leaf.

    David
  4.  
    Posted By: fostertomAs the inner skin and the EPS is basically same either way, we're saying that all the extra dig/muck away, extra found width - footprint in fact - plus the masonry outer skin and expensive wall ties, all add up to cost less than the render coat on EWI.
    The inner skin is likely to be wider for an EWI design as the main structure will be 190mm minimum rather than the 100mm common in cavity wall inner leaves. I'm using 100mm above slab, but 140mm below slab due to the weight of two cast in-situ concrete floors.

    The footprint in terms of dig/muck removal will be similar. The only different is the difference in thickness between the outer leaf & whatever you use to protect the EWI below ground. If you use a 50mm paving slab then the difference is 50mm.

    The cavity above DPC can be filled with low cost mineral wool insulation, rather than rigid boards approved for EWI use. The cavity wall ties are not cheap, but neither are EWI wall fixings.

    The render finish is quite technical and consists of a number of components. So the difference between this & brickwork facing is not as large as you might at first think & remember a cavity wall has already saved by having cheaper insulation & a 100mm inner leaf.

    Overall, I think they both have their place if detailed correctly.

    David
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomU/ground 440x440 piers on pads down to reqd soil loadbearing level, shallow ground beams between, mainly avoids the problem - u/floor insul can come out under the ground beams and join the EWI. To avoid great reinf, the ground beams can be precast, or long railway ('crossing') sleepers on edge.


    Sounds like that might be a workable solution here, and not one I'd considered - thanks!

    It's a simple single storey "lean-to" style rear extension - 3 meters out from the back of the house, 3.5m high where it meets the house, sloping down to 2.2m. 5.3 meters wide. Monopitch, with EPDM+green roof. Circa 150 thick walls with 200mm graphite-EPS EWI. 3m wide x full-height lift+slide 3G doors on the back face.

    The chalk is about 650mm below ground level.

    Tim.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeborough
    Posted By: TimSmallFor my case, as I'm building off chalk, I can do a block-width foundation using the info directly from England+Wales Building Regs Approved Document A (page 35). So 150mm wide concrete strip.

    With a wide cavity, with 2x 100mm leaves, and 200mm insulation this would go up to a 400mm wide foundation.
    You can't build up to the edge of a concrete strip foundation; you'll need 100-150mm concrete either side of the blockwork.


    Approved document A, page 35 says "Type of Ground" -> "1 Rock" -> "Not inferior to sandstone, limestone or firm chalk" -> "minimum width of strip foundations (mm)" -> "[...]equal to the width of wall".

    around 50mm less trench width due to using paving stone in place of outer leaf.


    Yep - most of the saving would be in the reduction in the amount of concrete used.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughthe main structure will be 190mm minimum rather than the 100mm common in cavity wall inner leaves.


    It can be less than this I believe - 190mm is a simplified figure from Approved Document A, and you can go thinner by calculation. Doc A also allows the use of single leaf walls down to 90mm thick in some limited situations (which I just fall outside of,due to having "large openings" in two walls, instead of the one) - see diagram 18, page 31.

    VH used 150mm blocks + ring beams for his single leaf, two storey extension...
  5.  
    Posted By: TimSmallApproved document A, page 35 says "Type of Ground" -> "1 Rock" -> "Not inferior to sandstone, limestone or firm chalk" -> "minimum width of strip foundations (mm)" -> "[...]equal to the width of wall".
    Good point, but this assumes you can lay out the house with pin-point accuracy. I've seen a lot of foundation walls get very close to the edge of a much wider concrete strip due to the tolerances of the ground workers trenches & the bricklayer's laying out.

    David
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughthis assumes you can lay out the house with pin-point accuracy.


    Fair point - my plan was to put that to my builder (who's pretty accurate), and tell him to build as thin as he is comfortable with. Looking into the pad+lintel approach instead at the moment...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughThe inner skin is likely to be wider for an EWI design
    As TimSmall says, can be as narrow as calcs allow. With wide cavity, load is no longer shared onto the outer skin, and its lateral stabilisation is also more tenuous, so you may need thicker inner skin anyway.

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughfootprint in terms of dig/muck removal will be similar
    Well, the extra is outer leaf plus found overhang - at least 250, assuming EWI down to found, which is something only we on GBF do, it seems!. But then we have that trench anyway, for french drain, Leca wing etc. I've not bothered with paving slab, just bare EPS - but am now looking to dob on a rodent-proof mesh where buried.

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughlow cost mineral wool insulation, rather than rigid boards approved for EWI use
    True

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughEWI wall fixings
    No longer necessary with some systems

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughrender finish is quite technical and consists of a number of components
    But shop around for plasterers - such render is common, cheap-option stuff on commercial buildings etc.

    I'd tend not to use masonry anyway for newbuild SW/SE walls, but go to really massive cob etc for NE/NW walls. Not the same all round, to all orientations, anyway.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertom[EPS] but am now looking to dob on a rodent-proof mesh where buried.


    Stainless steel mesh? I'd be interested to hear what you come up with for this.

    I was considering using fibre-cement double "slates" 600 x 600 x 3.5mm @ ~£1.40 each, and associated 600x300 off-cuts but I'm not 100% sure what their longevity in the ground would be. Probably good enough I think.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomam now looking to dob on a rodent-proof mesh where buried
    Wonder if the standard glassfibre mesh which reinforces the render anyway wd be sufficiently rodent proof, underground (roughly dobbed on with the standard adhesive, without the render). What think, anyone?
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2012
     
    fostertom asked: "Wonder if the standard glassfibre mesh which reinforces the render anyway wd be sufficiently rodent proof, underground (roughly dobbed on with the standard adhesive, without the render). What think, anyone?"

    http://www.theregister.co.uk/2011/10/12/dirty_rat_downs_virgin/
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2012
     
    David, have posted a link about rat's chewing capabilities from your link in a separate thread so that other comers can find it with a word-search.

    :wink:
  6.  
    Dunno about rats, but I doubt that Gf mesh would slow mice down for very long. Infact I'm doubtful about using soft foamy warm material anywhere out-of-sight in a building now, see my other GBF posts about squirty foam and pipe ins and mice. I'm leaning towards mineral wool as they dont seem to have the same genetic urge to shred that.

    I wouldn't put polystyrene down to ground level, but would leave a gap wide enough to deter climb ing. Say 30 feet or so.

    They can penetrate a 450mm granite wall seemingly at will, so 8mm of render will not be a long term barrier.
  7.  
    We haven't had any trouble with rodents nor structural issues in close to 200 Passive Slab insulated foundations to date. http://www.viking-house.co.uk/passive-slab-insulated-foundations.html
    The experience from Scandinavia is similar. The 200mm compacted stone beneath the insulation is pretty rodent proof as is the concrete slab, so any penetrations through the side walls are quickly noticed.
    Keep the perimeter of the house clear from rubble and debris, rodents don't like to be out in the open.
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