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  1.  
    hi all, this is the blog which details my house build so far.

    http://pedromahon.blog.co.uk/2012/07/07/basement-slab-14063841/

    The highly insulated and airtight envelope will surround an internal oak frame. OSB/cellotex SIPS type arrangement will form the external walls. Lime putty and oak bracing to finish.
    Heated by solar and Froling S4 turbo wood/pellet boiler. MHVR for ventilation to whole house. My sawmill has produced all structural timbers, frame being put together as we speak.
    Would appreciate any feedback!
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2012 edited
     
    Impressive. I suspect there is a lot of drooling over computer keyboards going on amongst others on here. :thumbup:
    • CommentAuthorpedro.mahon
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2012 edited
     
    yeah, its been a really rewarding process so far. I am proj managing the whole build and getting involved at every stage. The most fun part was, for sure, using the 20ton digger!
    -on the milling front, the Woodmizer has been working flawlessly. Even coping admirably with over length beams, 6.7m long. The cutting list reads like a telephone book however! most principle beams are 14"x10", there is about 100 of them, plus in excess of a hundred 2.5m 8"x8" not to mention the other parts of the list!
    The principle floor beams are scarfed together to form a monster beam, 14"x10" x... wait for it, 14m long!
    so, projected build costs have been more realistically adjusted to £400,000- £450,000 depending on usual deviations. But, £8,000 under budget so far, I am sure it wont last long.
    The ground floor frame is almost complete, it will be erected when a weeks worth of brick work, SV pipes, beam and block topdressed etc.
    Thanks for looking!
  2.  
    Looks very interesting.

    Do you have any technical details of the build? Target U values, target airtightness, construction details, etc?

    How is the basement going to be insulated? How do you plan to make the beam & block airtight at the floor-wall junction?

    David
    • CommentAuthordelboy
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2012
     
    What's stopping you from Code 6? If you have budget for some PV (approx £4k = 1kWp), that would sort your SAPs out.

    Is it Lifetime Homes?

    Interesting project - good luck with it.
  3.  
    I have all technical details, but suffice to say, the DER/TER is in excess of 110% so have tweaked the insulation down a tiny bit (for other reasons actually) to still gain max credits. The oak frame will be enveloped with OSB, insulation (165mm at least, possibly more as infill between oak posts) membrane and more OSB and finally mesh and lime putty. The warm roof will have 180mm cellotex or equiv.
    The beam and block will have membrane then 100mm insulation then screeded 75mm, under floor heating then finally jerusalem marble tiles to finish.
    -I have hit code 6 on pretty much all areas according to the assessor, I will play it by ear to see if still achieving. The SAP score hit highly with wood boiler, solar and also PV (10m sq) so already accounted for. The panels will be mounted on the log store as I think it will ruin my pretty tiled roof!
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2012
     
    Looking very nice so far. Out of interest, why the two layers of OSB on the external walls?
  4.  
    We, (the main contractor, timber framer, building surveyor and myself ) were of the opinion that it would basically add rigidity and strength to the external skin. I personally felt uncomfortable with having lime putty and mesh mounted directly on to insulation. Conversely fixing insulation directly to the oak posts (plus membrane) would not be able to cope with any movement in the oak. We are employing techniques similar to movable joints with the OSB/oak boundary. I guess it will also add to the airtightness levels having another layer. (albeit at extra cost)
    Hope this all makes sense!?
  5.  
    ps, i have conformed to Lifetime homes and the other easy credits (considerate constructors scheme etc)
    to people who dont know what this is, it details provision for lifts, bins, washing lines etc. see here for further info:
    http://www.lifetimehomes.org.uk/pages/costs.html

    ps alot of the points raised would have to be done anyways.
  6.  
    Have updated blog to add SAP calcs, open pdf's
  7.  
    external walls: 0.13
    roof 0.13
    ground floor 0.14
    windows 0.75

    The above figures are minimums to comply with SAP DER/TER >100%. Obviously I could improve by better quality detailing, higher spec etc. Will see how the budget goes! (out the window)
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: pedro.mahonWe, (the main contractor, timber framer, building surveyor and myself ) were of the opinion that it would basically add rigidity and strength to the external skin. I personally felt uncomfortable with having lime putty and mesh mounted directly on to insulation. Conversely fixing insulation directly to the oak posts (plus membrane) would not be able to cope with any movement in the oak. We are employing techniques similar to movable joints with the OSB/oak boundary. I guess it will also add to the airtightness levels having another layer. (albeit at extra cost)
    Hope this all makes sense!?


    Ok, well they are all good reasons! Don't forget about a vapour control layer on the warm side of the insulation, and a drained and vented cavity on the outside of the timber structure. I would NOT recommend mesh and line render direct onto OSB. It won't last long.
  8.  
    ok grt, we were thinking possibly having batons (attached to OSB) to affix mesh, would you be happier with that?
    -vapour control barriers catered for plus cavity vents. thanks for any help on this.
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2012
     
    Well that is better than rendering onto OSB. Over time the OSB will absorb moisture through the render and is likely to delaminate.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2012
     
    pedro,

    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: pedro.mahon</cite>ps, i have conformed to Lifetime homes and the other easy credits (considerate constructors scheme etc)</blockquote>

    Ref your post earlier, have you actually signed up to the CCS then? Many of our clients find it too onerous to claim these credits under C4SH?

    pm me if you prefer...
    Thanks....

    :smile:
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    I would avoid CCS if you can afford the credits. We did it on the advice of our C4SH assessor. It rates on par with all the other bad advice he gave us. When the CCS auditor came to see us for the preliminary meeting the first thing he said was "who suggested that CCS was a good idea for a self-builder, you do realise it requires the resources of a major professional company". The auditor was right. It was onerous, expensive and a real pain. I tend not to back-off once I've made a commitment and even though mine was a self-build, I am also a professional. I stuck with it and did gain the necessary rating in the final audit to achieve the two C4SH credits. However, I don't think that would have been possible without the flexibility exhibited by the CCS auditor who adopted a rather generous interpretation of the standards on the grounds that we were self-builders. The elements we were marked down we just daft. I doubt many major companies would invest to such lengths on a small project. Come to that, I know they would never be doing a project of such small scale as one modest house in a distinctly marginal northern city.
    I was building to C4SH level 4 (mandatory here).
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