Home  5  Books  5  Magazines  5  News  5  GreenPro  5  HelpDesk  5  Your Cart  5  Register  5  Green Living Forum
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building magazine

Green Building magazine

New - Spring 2012 edition.

View the current issue.
Subscribe now.
Magazine homepage.
Browse back issues.





Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012 edited
     
    Situation: existing mid-terrace house with 100 mm rafters, battens and plain roof tiles.

    Problem: 50 mm phenolic insulation between rafter and 50 mm under rafters is not going to be enough.

    What we really need is 100 mm phenolic full-fill between rafters with 70 mm under rafters. But the problem with this detail is that it requires the addition of a breather membrane and counter batten.

    I've seen examples around the neighbourhood where people have re-roofed and their tiles are now sitting proud of the neighbour's and simply sit at an angle over the party walls where they meet the neighbour's tiles.

    I don't know if this is because they've introduced a counter batten or because they're simply using different tiles but is this really doable?

    What do you think? Would it be possible to add a counter batten and be slightly proud of the neighbour's roofs? As long as we keep the ridge in the same place?
  1.  
    there seems to be a fashion in some areas near me where they reroof with interlocking tile rather than match the slate or plain . They then run a mucked in ridge tile down the join with the neighbouring property , looks crap, but something similar might get you round the 50mm height drop.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Seems to me it's reasonable on the basis that, given our CO2 reduction targets, the neighbours will likely be doing the same thing within the next decade.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Drape the membrane and miss out the counter battens, I have done it lots in the past without problems.
    • CommentAuthormattwprice
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    speak to Celotex and get them to do a condensation risk analysis. Chances are if you tape seal all the joints in the 70mm underscoring and silicon all edges and any pipe or lighting penetrations then you will have formed a vapour barrier and be ok. Personally i would go with 75mm between and 70mm below and use nilvent which is BBA'd from memory to 25mm air gap.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2012 edited
     
    I'm thinking instead that we could add 50 mm parallel battens to the underside of the existing rafters, effectively increasing the depth of rafters to 150 mm.

    This way we could then install 100 partial fill between rafters and 82.5 laminate board below rafters. This would then leave a 50 mm ventilation gap above but we'd still be targeting the u-values we need.

    What do you think? Seems like a no brainer, there's gotta be catch no?

    This method would also give us the option of not taking the roof up, but ideally we should so we can add a breather membrane between the rafters and tile battens.
  2.  
    Posted By: ShevekWhat do you think? Seems like a no brainer, there's gotta be catch no?


    Head height. Installing in-line vents in existing tiling. (neither necessarily a problem).

    J
  3.  
    Thermal bridge?

    10mm of continuous insulation under rafters is as good as 15mm between rafters (numbers guesstimates, but something like that)

    increasing the depth of rafters just extends thermal bridge....? better to increase thkness of board below existing rafters?

    (been thinking about this for new stud-wall-cum-IWI project )
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenincreasing the depth of rafters just extends thermal bridge....? better to increase thkness of board below existing rafters?

    The problem with this is that we'd need to use 50 mm between rafters (to achieve 50 mm airgap). And the insulation below rafters can't be thicker than the insulation between rafters (because of problems with dew point). So this would only give us 100 mm overall.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: James Norton
    Head height.

    Yeap, not a problem.
  4.  
    ?75mm between rafters/75 below, and rely on the view of some that a 25 air gap will do? I prefer 50 myself, but it's worth a thought?
  5.  
    we'd need to use 50 mm between rafters (to achieve 50 mm airgap). And the insulation below rafters can't be thicker than the insulation between rafters (because of problems with dew point).


    not sure i understand this right ... is this a general rule? Bit concerned now for my job!

    Half the depth of the timber is in contact with ventilated air gap. And timber is much higher thermal conductivity than insulation. So all of the timber will be at external temperature (or close to) at all times. Irrespective of how thick the insulation layer is underneath it. .... no?

    If a concern, how about using foil faced boards below the rafters and tape joins? (or add VCL)
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2012
     
    Posted By: Nick Parsons?75mm between rafters/75 below, and rely on the view of some that a 25 air gap will do? I prefer 50 myself, but it's worth a thought?

    That is worth a thought definitely, but ideally the insulation below wants to be less than that between. So we'd be taking a risk on dew point and restricted ventilation. Also, that would be a u-value of 0.15 whereas the 100 between and 70 below will give us 0.14.
  6.  
    WillinAberdeen, you said: ''If a concern, how about using foil faced boards below the rafters and tape joins? (or add VCL) ''

    I reckon VCL is required in any case.
  7.  
    Ok, fair enough !

    What do you think about

    the insulation below rafters can't be thicker than the insulation between rafters (because of problems with dew point)


    Is this something everyone should design to? I hadn't heard this
    before.

    Will (not a builder)
  8.  
    I think its part of a 3 part dew point rule of thumb:

    1. More between than below
    2. Always do a proper dew point calc
    3. Then err on the side of caution...

    :wink:

    J
  9.  
    Ok thanks!!
    I can see where 2 and 3 come from, but how does 1 make any difference? The timber is always going to be close to at external temp AFAICS, irrespective of between: below as it is half exposed to ventilation, and other half is quite conductive... ?

    So timber will be colder than dewpoint, but not a problem with ventilation and Vcl...

    What'm I missing??
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2012
     
    Like WillInAberdeen I'm confused by this rule of thumb of having at least half the insulation between the rafters. To put it another way - the rafter has to penetrate at least half way into the insulation. If you have a rafter which penetrates only a quarter of the way in (three times as much insulation below as between) this would presumably be a problem. How does pushing the rafter in further solve this problem? By warming the rafter? But as Will says it'll be near outdoor temperature, anyway.
  10.  
    Wood has a lambda value around 3-5 times that of insulation. So although its not a great insulator, its not a great conductor either.

    Putting less than half the insulation below the rafter should be sufficient to keep most of the rafter above dew point. However, as mentioned on the other thread, I don't think it follows that you should increase the rafter depth to achieve this rule of thumb & it probably isn't relevant when ventilating directly above the insulation.

    David
  11.  
    Thanks, think I see where this came from!

    But still cant seem to make the numbers stack up. Let's take equal thicknesses of insulation between and below, take lambda of wood as 4x insulation, then

    4/(1+4) = 80% of the temperature difference will be across the insulation, and remaining 20% will be across the wood.So if its 20deg inside, 0deg outside then the temperature of the wood will be max 4degC. Thats gotta be below dewpoint of inside air....?

    No problem, as wood is ventilated to outside air.

    Ok this is bit simplified as heat conduction will be 2D not 1D, some heat will flow sideways into the rafter from the 'between' insulation, this will make the wood an even worse thermal bridge....
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press