Home  5  Books  5  Magazines  5  News  5  GreenPro  5  HelpDesk  5  Your Cart  5  Register  5  Green Living Forum
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories

This month's favourite choices





Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012 edited
     
    We need to build a retaining wall as our plot is on a slope, and the house will be around 1.3 to 1.8 metres below the ground level to the north (there's a photo of the scale model here: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=9114&page=1#Item_1).

    The original plans (that came with the plot) stipulated steel piling driven in along the northern boundary then excavation, followed by the building of a stone wall, with the stone wall foundation being a massive reinforced concrete beam. I'm concerned that the piling will create a fair bit of nuisance, as I'd imagine that driving in around 35 metres length of piles isn't going to be quick or quiet.

    The ground is reasonably OK, it's the lower part of a former orchard. The top soil layer is fairly thin, with chalk and then greensand underneath (no clay, AFAIK). There may well be springs that appear when we cut into the bank, I've been told, as there are several springs along the side of this valley that drain into the mill stream on the southern boundary.

    The wall needs to be near-vertical, to give me room at the lower level, so a solution like the ABG Webwall one that Joiner linked to a day or so ago wouldn't work. I would prefer to minimise the amount of nuisance to the neighbours (who are generally OK about the build), plus access for big machinery isn't that easy, as the bridge over the stream has a weight and width limit.

    Screw piles seem a possibility, as they can be placed using a JCB with a torque drive on the jib, but I've no experience of them and wonder about the long term reliability in wet ground.

    Stone filled gabions might be another possibility, quite an appealing one as they would allowa water to drain through from the high ground to the north, but what do you do to shore up the excavation before they go in?

    I think I'm resigned to having to have a fair bit of concrete in there somewhere, but would like to try and avoid it if possible.

    Does anyone have any expertise or experience in retaining wall construction they could share, please?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    Gabions would do it
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>Gabions would do it</blockquote>

    They would be my preferred option, but how do you dig away the ground and stop it sliding down before you put them in place?

    As I understand it, the original plan called for steel interlocking piles to be driven in to just below ground level first, to hold the slope above in place, followed by a reinforced concrete beam foundation and a stone wall on top of that, butting up to the exposed piles.

    Do you reckon that you can dig out between 1.3 and 1.8 m without putting something in place first?

    My worry is that if the ground above is wet (as I'm near-certain it will be in places) then there's a risk of it sliding down. This is compounded by me needing to build the retaining wall right on the boundary with the neighbours land, meaning I can't easily cut a slope back and backfill.

    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: GaryB</cite>JSH

    Is this of interest?

    <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.acheson-glover.com/commercial/products/retaining-walls/">http://www.acheson-glover.com/commercial/products/retaining-walls/</a></blockquote>

    Thanks, I've looked at those. It's a nice looking solution, but also pretty expensive! It also has the same problem as gabions, in that there's a need to put something in place to hold the ground behind in place whilst excavating.

    Ultimately I'm going to get a soil/structural engineer to design and oversee the scheme, but before doing so I'd like to be armed with as much info as possible, as I don't want to just have a massive concrete structure imposed on me if I can help it.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    Posted By: JSHarris..................................... in that there's a need to put something in place to hold the ground behind in place whilst excavating.

    Could try this but probably very expensive.
    http://www.bdf.co.uk/ground_freezing.php
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    small sections will stand up on their own, then work across using boards to keep top of done ones clean (and hope) build like a brick wall racked back?
      P1030715sm.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: owlman</cite>Posted By: JSHarris..................................... in that there's a need to put something in place to hold the ground behind in place whilst excavating.

    Could try this but probably very expensive.
    <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.bdf.co.uk/ground_freezing.php">http://www.bdf.co.uk/ground_freezing.php</a></blockquote>

    That's a neat idea! As you say, probably a bit on the expensive side, though.



    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>small sections will stand up on their own, then work across using boards to keep top of done ones clean (and hope) build like a brick wall racked back?</blockquote>

    Thanks Tony, I hadn't though of that. The chances are that would work OK, as the slope isn't very steep at the moment and the bit where we suspect there might be water is at the 1.3 metre high end, rather than the 1.8 metre high end. I'm hopeful that we'll hit solid chalk a foot or two down, which will make life much easier, as a chalk "cliff" should present little risk of collapse, I'd have thought.

    Worst case would be trying to do it now, after months of heavy rain and water flowing pretty much everywhere. In some respects the long delays I've hit with planning etc have done me a favour! Somehow I've got to allow for all the surface run off from the sloping land above this wall and direct it down to the stream, perhaps via a water feature in our garden. This is another reason that using gabions seems attractive, as they would allow presently unknown springs to flow through and down to be captured and diverted at the bottom. I suspect I'll still need a fairly substantial concrete foundation, not so much to support the gabions as to avoid water erosion at the base.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    You can't get permission to encroach temporarily on next door? - excavate a bank shallow enough to be stable, build a single skin wall (or temporary shuttering) on the boundary and backfill behind with v weak conc full of lumps of old masonry - any old massive rough stuff with just enough cement to bind together. Or - put back the excavated soil with cement mixed in.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: fostertom</cite>You can't get permission to encroach temporarily on next door? - excavate a bank shallow enough to be stable, build a single skin wall (or temporary shuttering) on the boundary and backfill behind with v weak conc full of lumps of old masonry - any old massive rough stuff with just enough cement to bind together. Or - put back the excavated soil with cement mixed in.</blockquote>

    Yes and no. The land immediately above has a couple of small (but nice) trees on it, that are too close to allow me to excavate back. At the shallow end (to the west), the neighbour would quite like me to build up the height of his land, to get rid of the steep slope he has in that corner, so I can happily dig back there. The wall would then be built up to around the same height as at the deep end (to the east). The problem area is really from the centre to the eastern edge, as this is where the most material has to come out and where I can't dig back into the neighbours land.

    I've also got to plan for water being around as soon as I dig this out. We already have a small intermittent spring right at the western end (where the land dips a bit) and suspect there may be more once we start to excavate. The ground rises steeply behind the plot (to the north east) with the ridge being around 60 m above the plot about 1/3rd mile to the north east. The slope to the NE is pretty steep, as the large area elevation cross section below shows (the plot is right at the bottom of this, to the left).
      NE section.jpg
  1.  
    I think timber crib retaining walls can look good especially as they can be planted up to soften/disguise the appearance. Certainly if backfilled with free draining stone and combined with a land drain at the base it should be possible to overcome the potential problem of the springs. A couple of inks below for consideration.

    http://www.timbercribretainingsystems.co.uk/
    http://www.phigroup.co.uk/solutions/gravity-retaining-walls
  2.  
    we are looking at this system of pile driving using a bobcat
    http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DsLAW_YLumec&v=sLAW_YLumec&gl=FR
    • CommentAuthorPaulJ
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2012
     
    How about king posts and timber or concrete sleepers? You could auger 4.0m deep holes, say 250mm dia @ 2.5m centres using an excavator with the right fitting, drop in say 4.0m long 152x152 x 23 uc steels and concrete up 2.0m, then dig out the bays one at a time between the steels and drop in railway sleepers. This would probably be far more cost effective than steel sheets and does not cause any vibration to adjacent buildings. Also it looks OK without the stone facing. Unless it is retaining the house foundation you probably do not need to build to full structural eng. spec.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2012
     
    Thanks folks.

    I like the look of the timber crib, my only concern would be long term safety. About half this wall will end up 1.5 m away from the rear wall of our house, making replacement in 20, 30 40, 50 years pretty difficult and endangering the house if it failed prematurely.

    Screw piles are on my list of techniques to suggest to engineer, I like the way they can be driven in quickly and relatively quietly. I've already been in touch with a company who can do this.

    I like the idea of the king post and sleepers solution. There aren't any adjacent buildings to worry about, the nearest house is a few tens of metres away. I don't really like the idea of a smooth stone wall, as currently proscribed, anyway, and would prefer something that looks a bit less regular, and over which we could grow climbers etc to give a more natural look.

    I'll do some more digging around and then go and see the engineer armed with at least a bit more knowledge than I had before.
    • CommentAuthorSteveZ
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2012
     
    Hi JSH. I have posted my experience with a retaining wall elsewhere on the forum, and I can see that you want a cast-iron guarantee that it won't fail, but around here (N Cornwall) we have Cornish Hedges (2-sides) and Banks (single side/retaining wall) well over the height of your requirements which don't seem to have moved at all over the years.

    My retaining wall is around 6 feet high, and although it has only been up a couple of years, has shown no signs of moving. The water drains through it when necessary and it looks much more attractive than the concrete monstrosity designed by the civil engineer I consulted.

    It will need a 'batter' or vertical concave curve when built to lock in the individual stones, so it won't be strictly vertical but it will be close to it. If the worst case happens and there is movement, it is not too difficult to repair a section. A real benefit in your case is that it can be a thin wall, maybe 15" thick or less. Mine is 'mortared' with quarry dust, not the more usual earth, which I think adds to the stability as the 'fines' in the dust bind together.

    If you do consider this idea for such an important location, please employ a proper hedge builder.

    Best wishes, Steve
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: SteveZ</cite>Hi JSH. I have posted my experience with a retaining wall elsewhere on the forum, and I can see that you want a cast-iron guarantee that it won't fail, but around here (N Cornwall) we have Cornish Hedges (2-sides) and Banks (single side/retaining wall) well over the height of your requirements which don't seem to have moved at all over the years.

    My retaining wall is around 6 feet high, and although it has only been up a couple of years, has shown no signs of moving. The water drains through it when necessary and it looks much more attractive than the concrete monstrosity designed by the civil engineer I consulted.

    It will need a 'batter' or vertical concave curve when built to lock in the individual stones, so it won't be strictly vertical but it will be close to it. If the worst case happens and there is movement, it is not too difficult to repair a section. A real benefit in your case is that it can be a thin wall, maybe 15" thick or less. Mine is 'mortared' with quarry dust, not the more usual earth, which I think adds to the stability as the 'fines' in the dust bind together.

    If you do consider this idea for such an important location, please employ a proper hedge builder.

    Best wishes, Steve</blockquote>

    That's a great idea! As it happens, I have a tame Cornish landscaper (Simon Harris Trees & Grounds Ltd, Polgear, Redruth) and he's got a waller/hedger I believe. Looks like a brotherly visit might be called for.................
    • CommentAuthorPaulJ
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2012
     
    Here is a pic of a king pile wall we did recently for a basement. It was temporary works so we used untreated sleepers and we didn't worry about accuracy or aesthetics. We welded a lug to the top of the steels so they were easy to lift into place. The section on the right was done with contiguous reinforced concrete augered piles, as I did not want the neighbour's garage in the hole.

    Instead of using a specialist piling firm you can just hire a 13 tonne excavator with operator and auger attachment.
      P1040661.JPG
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJul 26th 2012
     
    with apologies for the diversion.....

    Posted By: JSHarrishow do you dig away the ground and stop it sliding down before you put them in place?


    I don't know, our 4.5m banks held up with luck alone until we back filled. I was asked the same question by an ex-miner on my way down the brick-lined lift shaft at the National Coal mining museum ( an interesting, free day out whatever the weather!) and I didn't get an answer. How did they do it? I'd love to know.

    http://www.ncm.org.uk/visitors/underground-tour (second picture down)
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press