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please could you direct me to info. there is probably loads on here but i can't find it yet. I'd love a second opinion re. flue pipe design for a small boiler wood stove. I was wondering if I could put an uninsulated flue up from the back of the stove vertically inside the rear wall of the cabin and then exist through the wall ( insulated flue) via a 45 degree bend just under the roof at the top of the wall and then another 45 insulated bend into an insulated flue chimney. That would mean one 90 degree bend behind the stove, then 3 ' of vertical pipe then a 45 degree bend, insulated pipe through the wall , another 45 degree bend then insulated pipe outside ?
I did get this advice below...what do you think?
'The only way your stove will stand a chance of working is if you vent the stove off the top and go straight up through the roof in twin wall insulated flue in it's entirety. The best performing flue is vertical, but because it is going to be very low in relation to what is usually required for solid flue, it will be important to ensure flue gas temperatures are maintained all the time.'
Rachel Part J diag. 15 does say that 90 degree bends are not suitable for solid fuel, however the diagram then shows = 2 x 45 deg. at the back outlet of the appliance so perhaps this would be suitable. Over here all the rear exit WBS use a 90 deg bend at the stove and another where the stove pipe enters the chimney, but then we are required by regulation to have chimneys swept at least once a year by a qualified chimney sweep. Do you know what the stove manufacture recommend for chimney heights, flue diameters etc.
I'd say that diagram 15 says that what the OP wants is acceptable.
It shows a rear exit with a T-peice, which is a standard way of connecting a stove. It also shows a section of flue with 2 45 degree bends as being acceptable, which the OP also wanted to use.
One of my stoves and my log boiler use rear exits with a T and both work well; in fact the boiler doesn't have a top exit.
There is an implication that the flue is short, hence may not have a very good draw, so it would probably be better to use the top outlet and a straight flue. As Peter suggests, I'd ask the makers.
More info needed Rachel.. appliance details total length of flue exterior setting..tall trees or other buildings nearby?
I am guessing you don't want to go straight through the wall then T piece in order to recover maximum heat from the flue? In this case take it straight up and flash it through the roof, elbows and T pieces cost a fortune compared to a flashing.. Also being in a cabin you will need to pay particular attention to distances to combustibles as cabins have a tendency to combust quickly and spectacularly!