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    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Hi all,

    After weeks of looking I have finally found a forum site that may be able to help me in restoring a Grade II cottage just outside Whitby in a national park. This is what I want to do but have not got a clue. What I need help on, which are the best solar roof slates to use to offset the electric. There is no gas or oil it’s all electric, so what is the best electric system/boiler to use to supply the heating/hot water. All help & advice greatly appreciated and welcome as well on anything you may think I need to know as well.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Reduce demand by insulating to the hilt first, then I would install a heat pump, then solar pv, there is little choice for the slates.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Welcome to the GBF and good luck with going green. I also own a grade 2 listed cottage so my first piece of advice is talk to the conservation officer at your local council and bounce your ideas off him before you do anything. Our local guy wants to be involved in everything so best get him on your side before you start.
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Thanks for the comments so far. Have had a meeting with the consevation officers from the Yorkshire National Parks. They are keen on the solar slates but need more info, colour, size and so on. Also keen on going green, the national parks have targets they need to meet, they plan to use my cottage as a bench mark as no one has used the sloar roor slates before. The cottage has a very/very small garden so don't think I can use a heat pump. What i need help on really the most is the boiler/heating & hot water.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Good advice Triassic, you get must them on board from the outset, don’t hit them with the whole ecohouse idea in the first 5 minutes, they won’t like it and all your dreams will be out the window, ease them in bit by bit. i wouldn’t aim to high either , you know what you’ve brought, you know the fall backs of a listed building, so don’t get upset when you can’t do exactly what you want, having said that a good argument is that without good insulation and a sustainable energy source a listed buildings would undoubtedly become a non-cost-effective property to live in. i wouldn’t go with electric boilers even if you can offset with some PV, if your house is that poorly insulated the size of electric boiler would be massive far bigger than you PV system, add to that your peak demand time is winter when you have less sun, and you’ll have probably brought the most expensive heating system available. as Triassic said you need some kind of heat pump, and probably a large one , get it sized properly, visit a couple of building shows there are loads of companies baying for your trade, Some with good advice. Also solar thermal is a good way of storing heat energy, might have trouble with listed building officer with that one.

    Good luck
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Posted By: unicomThe cottage has a very/very small garden so don't think I can use a heat pump.
    An airsource heat pump takes up very little space. IMHO it's the only sensible way to heat using electricity.

    Someone else on this forum is planning to use Romag solar slates for PV. For hot water though I'd still use solar thermal panels - the ones that heat the water rather than making electricity.

    Good luck with your project!
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    The problem with a airsouse heat pump is, you need planning permission, not sure that a big grey box would go down well with the planners. Please correct me if I am wrong.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    What is the external wall material? Any chance of posting a pic, as attachment (below the Enter your comments box)?
    •  
      CommentAuthorted
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    You would need planning permission for an ASHP, as the permitted development regs excludes listed buildings.
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    fostertom, picture of the cottage attached.

    Have just been looking at into air heat pumps and I can see that they can be installed inside, so this would solve my problems. Have a shed (old pig pen) joined to the cottage I could put it in, its open to the elements.
      mail.jpg
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Water source heat pump? if you have a a stream or pond.
    pig pen would be fine , although might make the pig a bit cold:smile:
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    No stream or pond and the pigs have been put in between two slices of bread and smothered with HP source a long time ago.
  1.  
    Welcome to GBF, Unicom.

    You said: ''The problem with a airsouse heat pump is, you need planning permission, not sure that a big grey box would go down well with the planners. Please correct me if I am wrong. ''

    I don't think you are wrong per se, but I think perhaps the planners wouldn't baulk if it's behind the house, assuming of course that any of the land behind is yours. Do get advice from other users (incl on this forum) re noise, both airborne and vibration. I stayed recently with a friend who is troubled by ASHP noise, and the ASHP is not even her's - the next-door neighbour's unit seems to transmit vibes, possibly (obviously) initially via a wall and thence via a shared timber.

    P.S, I misread your user name initially as 'Unicorn'. That';d look good on the little bit of green outside the cottage - startle passing motorists!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    V nice - so I won't push for EWI - this time!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    what is in behind the double green doors?
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    That is at present the work shop, which I am converting into a open plan living room kitchen. Upstairs will 2 beds and a bathroom. The building was lived in by an old man untill he died for the last 40+ years. Upstairs was a living room, bedroom and kitchen come Toilet, he went to his sisters once a week for a bath. The building dates back to around 1800ish.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    Posted By: unicomthe pigs have been put in between two slices of bread and smothered with HP source a long time ago.


    sound lovley, thanks for the dinner idea
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012 edited
     
    The alternative to a large HP to cope with all circumstances could be a much smaller one to shoulder most of the load, with a stove or LPG boiler to top up during colder spells. Some merit also in not relying on a single fuel.

    The cottage looks to be of typical cottage size so you may find especially if you like open-plan space, that heat distributes from a central source well enough without ducts or piped water systems and radiators.

    Part of the price for living in an attractive older building should pehaps be that we accept to some degree lower standards of heating/insulation than we would want in a new building, and a lower level of 24/7 comfort than we have become used to in a cheap-fuel pre-climate-change era. So a couple of sweaters and some padded trousers might be on your list. No need for hair shirts, though.

    We have an air-to-air HP in a listed building - it's just out of the way round the back where nobody sees it. It is small - 2.5kW, effectively silent, only heats air, not DHW, and since I put it in I've used almost no LPG for the CH boiler, and much less wood on the stove. It is very suited to this year's weather, eg a mostly mild winter and cool summer. A second one might be good, more would seem overkill.

    If I were putting in a heating system now I'd fancy some underfloor heating in the large kitchen, and if the planners would let me maybe a masonry stove somewhere central to burn wood efficiently without the fag of frequent refuelling.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeAug 29th 2012
     
    A GSHP does not need to have a large garden it can be installed with a deep bore hole instead. Just and option, I ruled out heat pumps at the very being of my new build, so don't know much about them.
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeAug 31st 2012
     
    Thanks everyone, please keep the ideas coming.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 31st 2012
     
    Hello
    You have said that you want to go 'green'. Do you mean low energy use or low CO2/other emissions use?

    Always with Tony on this, properly installed insulation along with improved airtightness is the way to go. In fact I would say tackle draughts and leaks first. Have a look at Aerogel type insulation as you will be working on the inside.

    As you are all electric, get a cheap domestic energy monitor (mine does up to 9 circuits and was about 50 quid). Gave me a very clear picture of where losses and waste where happening. Halved my usage quite quickly and cheaply. Being all electric is not all bad.

    Do a detailed room by room heat loss survey, not that hard to do, just a bit tedious, this would have to be done if you wanted to claim RHI on a heat pump anyway.
    • CommentAuthorunicom
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2012
     
    Hi all, latest update. Had an email chat with the national parks CO and guest what, a complete U turn. Not keen on putting Solar slate on the roof because of the colour variation and yes I can have a air heat pump but will need to be boxed in! So back to square one and going eclectic. Well at least I tried.
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2012
     
    Looks nice.

    As Hairlocks says, you can use GSHP with a borehole (we've got six here). They are invisible once done and the result is a lot quieter than ASHP. If you are in a very quiet setting make sure you consider how loud an ASHP is likely to be before choosing. The drilling for GSHP boreholes can also be troublesome/unpredictable/expensive though so I would hesitate to recommend it without doing a bit more homework first.

    There are two basic approaches to initial heat-pump planning. Either way you should look at how good a job you can do with draughtproofing and insulation first. Then you can either calculate your likely heat requirements and size a heat pump to provide all of that; OR you can just rough-estimate what you might need and put in a heat pump to deliver a proportion of that PLUS a secondary heat source (and preferably not just electric heating) for the coldest bits of winter.

    We went with the first approach but our plumber speaks highly of setups he has seen where they did the second approach also.

    It can be very hard or impractical to draughtproof and insulate a GII listed dwelling well and predictably though so unless you can completely strip it and refloor and reroof you should not expect the sort of performance that some on here talk routinely about for new builds.
  2.  
    Hi- my tuppenneth- be very careful if you are thinking of installing your ASHP in a shed or whatever. From what I know of them they need very free flowing air around them otherwise they will suck back in the cold air that they have just kicked out. By putting them in a shed I think this is more likely to happen.

    Bob
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2012
     
    Posted By: rangichangisamHi- my tuppenneth- be very careful if you are thinking of installing your ASHP in a shed or whatever. From what I know of them they need very free flowing air around them otherwise they will suck back in the cold air that they have just kicked out. By putting them in a shed I think this is more likely to happen.


    That seems like an obvious issue with ASHP that must have been resolved by some clever chaps; maybe exhaust air can be ducted away as in MVHR
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2012
     
    > yes I can have a air heat pump but will need to be boxed in!

    Sounds like they just don't want to be able to see it so no need to waste a building to hide it.
    Normally the external fan unit would be wide open next to an outside wall. But if you turn it 90 degrees and put a box around it it such that the two open faces of the box allow airflow straight through the fan (if you see what I mean - kind of a short tunnel) then it should be fine. The box could be trellis or panelled fencing - anything that looks suitably garden-like to hide the white/beige metal box.

    I'm sure you can find better uses for the pig-pen. My home-office is actually a converted pig-pen (and we call it just "the pig-pen")... seems very appropriate somehow.
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2012
     
    Posted By: Sprocketanything that looks suitably garden-like to hide the white/beige metal box.
    I'm sure you can paint it green too. It's not worse than an oil tank in the garden.
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2012
     
    Paint it green and link it to a TS, allowing you to use off-peak electric and link the Woodburner and solar in too. Ideally GSHP as noted.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2012
     
    Some years ago Which (I think it was them) reported on the folly if putting ASHP into badly insulated houses with regular size rads. if I remember correctly the issue was that in cold weather ASHP couldn't deliver the power required so the booster coil (COP=1) was used too much.

    Has much changed since that report? Have larger power ASHP using CO2 become readily available?
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2012
     
    Many ASHP don't have back-up heating any more, esp when connected to a TS, as the stored hot water precludes the need for special defrost heating. I have yet to see figures that convince me that ASHP as a standalone solution in an older house is very economical.

    I have customers in older houses with ASHPs I have fitted, and they are economical despite lowering COPS in colder weather as they mostly run on off-peak (some day, some night) with oversize rads and separate DHW so the heating water in the TS can be kept cooler. But being a cautious so and so, I made sure they had back-up. Oil in one case, woodstove in another. They seem happy, and still recommend me, so I guess that is good.
   
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