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    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012 edited
     
    70s estate chalet bungalow, uprating to near-Passivhaus - EWI incl over roof, airtightness, new 3G windows. In this case, no MHRV, instead humidity-controlled ex fans to wet rooms, and opening windows.
    Extg 80s rads and HW cyl from end-of-life floorstanding gas boiler into masonry stack prob gas-lined.

    30m2 avail for optimal-angled unshaded southish mix of PV and/or solar thermal - Dartmoor, therefore insolation 15-20% higher than nat average, except it's Tavistock, where it always rains.

    Possibilities:
    1) as the boiler will be doing little work, just leave it incl flue, plumbing etc
    2) remove; new tiny balanced flue boiler nearby, plumbing alterations etc
    3) solar thermal incl cyl also connected to 1) or 2) (5% VAT, RHI)
    4) PV (5% VAT, FIT)
    5) immersion heater in the new solar thermal cyl, on usual PV/grid mix
    6) box of tricks to dump xs PV to the cyl when avail instead of feeding-in to grid; cyl made bigger/store
    7) 'dry' woodburner where the old boiler used to be (20% VAT), with
    8) either uprated 8m liner in the extg stack (20% VAT), or
    9) abandon or demolish the stack, 8m of new twinwall flue (20% VAT)
    10) or 'wet' woodburner with back boiler connected to the solar thermal cyl (5% VAT, RHI, incl to 8/9))

    With 3), 4), 5/6), 8/9) and 10), we have to wonder whether 1) or 2) are still necessary.
    Esp if the cyl became an even bigger thermal store feeding the extg rads as occasional backup.

    What does the team recommend, for an all-round balanced energy scheme, in the circumstances as described?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Why no MVHR?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    I'll make a separate thread of that.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Is capital expenditure an issue? and what are the heat loads like?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Capital is available but it wants to be the medium-to-long term economic best-buy incl considering reduced VAT, and FIT/RHI income.

    Heat loads - haven't bothered to calc, let's say fabric/vent loss reduced to 10% of a trad 70s 3-bed home with 1G and 2" in the loft, or 25% of same with plastic 2G, cav fill and 4" in the loft. DHW and electric same as ever. Gains - av 1.25 occupants, no dog, lightish cooking, early to bed!
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Having seen the other thread I would knock out anything that may cause the allergies to flare up ie woodburner option or even gas boiler. The beauty of electricity in these circumstances is that it's clean, so maybe pv/st/E7 combinations. Fine wire (Viking) extraction for winter as no ducts and you can wash the filters and I think can turn off heat exchanger in summer (check that).
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomHeat loads - haven't bothered to calc

    Think that needs to be done don't you.
    Electric is cheap on the cap ex, emissions free at point of delivery, very flexible and getting greener slowly.
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomno MHRV, instead humidity-controlled ex fans to wet rooms, and opening windows.
    Will probably need a bit more inwards ventilation than this to satisfy building control. As you say on other thread would need some sort of passivent.

    BTW are they wanting to cook with gas? This may influence any decision to ditch gas. The standing charges and servicing costs can easily outway the cost of the fuel on a PassivHaus.

    I sympathise with the mould allergies. MHRV has changed my life for the better in that respect. We were in a slightly underheated Victorian end-terrace before that. I can't see any sign of mould growth - peering and wiping inside the ducting when I've cleaned out the filter. - I think the constant airflow must prevent it. We live in fairly damp Pennine Yorkshire.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2012 edited
     
    Replace the solar cylinder with an Ecocent (has solar coil) - ST backed-up by electric DHW at average COP 2.5

    Replace extract fans in showers/kitchen with humidity-controlled grilles and ducts to Ecocent intake - ventilation heat recovery from at almost no additional capital cost. [edit: I'm a pillock. This won't work if with ST - in sunny weather the heat pump would never run, leaving the wet rooms wet.]

    Low level fresh air intakes to bedrooms (via long-ish pipes with bends).

    High level air paths from bedrooms/sitting room to wet rooms.

    If solar gain is good, main Ecocent intake (always open) from utility room (?) with radiator from spare Ecocent coil in same room; pump with humidistat/thermostat drives radiator; if room is cold or damp rad heats up; indoor drying room at little extra capital cost.

    If solar gain is poor, Ecocent main intake from outside (or attached garage, or greenhouse?).

    Get rid of old boiler and flue.
    Replace with new wall mounted balanced flue for CH only.

    Any cash left over, spend on PV.
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2012
     
    Sounds like a case of ask the 1.25 occupant(s) what their lifestyle will be. Do they like a fire? Are they there to stoke it? Can they get wood easily? If a few nos here, discount that option (SS flue @ 5% if serving a woodstove with boiler btw).

    If they do like it, a small WS- fed TS with ST link would sound grand, aided and abetted by a small gas boiler linked to the TS, hence extra efficient (lower running costs). ST on the roof will give enough heat for a small place after a good day such as our recent autumns.

    This will allow a good degree of future-proofing too. Tavistock is always dry when I visit clients there. Do you seriously have rain? :shocked:
    • CommentAuthorNickiB
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2012
     
    BTW - RHI premium payment is only available if wet woodburners are MCS registered and there is only one I know of - Broseley Evolution 26 (which would probably be too big at an output to room of 10kW).
  1.  
    Get a whispergen boiler to cover your winter electricity/heating, with solar PV and Thermal for the summer. MHRV. Lots of insulation. I'd also consider a battery pack to cover overnight consumption - not quite off grid.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2012
     
    Dimengineer - that's a 'one with everything' solution! What I'm seeking is something creative to work with what we've got, get gd result for minimum cost. Here's the current re-statement:

    'The biggest and least painful saving possible at this time, to trim the overall building contract, wd be to simply leave the extg. old boiler, loft header tank, rads, pipework, stack and flue/liner undisturbed, as occasional backup spaceheating, and partial water heating. Advantage of retaining the client’s drying cubd!

    Then add solar thermal for main water heating, prob requiring new HW tank? and/or PV for main water heating as well as general electricity, esp now that
    http://www.yougen.co.uk/blog-entry/1970/How+to+use+excess+solar+electricity+for+water+heating/
    EMMA alternatives now coming through. Is it still justified to install two separate solar systems – would just PV do it these days?

    Then wait and see how much use the old boiler gets a) for spaceheating b) for water heating, see where to go from there, because it will need replacing soon enough.

    So that is a redefinition of what needs to be optimised, incl VAT rates, FIT and RHI.'

    Any comments on that?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2012
     
    Posted By: NickiBRHI premium payment is only available if wet woodburners are MCS registered and there is only one I know of - Broseley Evolution 26 (which would probably be too big
    Ah, thanks for that.
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