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General: Lightweight double-glazed tilt-turn secondary glazing

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    Is there such a thing as double glazed tilt-turn secondary glazing?

    I am trying to solve the perennial problem of sliding sash windows, and I wonder whether "secondary glazing" a single glazed sash window using a tilt-turn unit that is itself double glazed might be a way to get good performance with a perfect single glazed exterior appearance. Possibly the inner face of the single glazing in the sash window or the outer face of the double glazed unit could be hard coat low-e. (Probably the latter is better.)

    Simulating very quickly with WINDOW suggests something like 0.830 as a u-value is possible centre-of-pane. And you could put insulation between the two frames (or just leave a gap) so I suspect the window u value could be quite close.

    But this would be expensive if you used an exterior grade window as secondary glazing. I think one would want something lighter and I don't know whether a suitable framing system is available.

    Perhaps it could just be custom made as part of the window? Actually I'm not sure it's necessary or useful to have tilt turn in this situation? Maybe just inward opening on hinges? Either way you're not going to be able to use the ledge and the window at the same time.

    I hope what I've tried to describe makes sense. Does anything like this exist? Or anyone have any other thoughts?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2012
     
    I've made hardwood, hinged, single glazed, inner windows for sash windows before. they were quite successful and my clients liked them, particularly the noise reduction from a fairly busy street. In my case the sash windows were 2G and the inner was single glazed. I see no reason why you can't reverse the principle but for ease I'd be tempted to stick to a simple hinged inner, fitted into a purpose made frame with weather strip joiney seals for good measure. You could even use lift off hinges so in Summer you could remove them.
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    That sounds really good, owlman. Do you have any pictures of what you made?

    I'm trying to picture how it would work. Does it fit into the opening of the sash window or attach to the boxes, or it completely freestanding?

    Lift-off hinges sounds practical if it's not too heavy. What type of handle would you use to get a good seal?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2012
     
    Somewhere I have some old pictures, not digital though. The hinged "inners" were part of a wider bedroom refurb in Cherry. The window and the radiator beneath were treated as one unit from a design point of view with the rads placed behind a grille.
    Make a rebated frame grooved to take a joinery seal, brace it to keep it square, and then construct the inner "door, or doors ", personally I'd go for two, but may be a bit more difficult, depending on your workshop skills. If it's just for draught proofing a little used window then one " door " may be fine. If you make two doors then you may of course see the meeting stiles from the outside. The principle is simple but where to fit the "door/frame" combination is difficult to suggest without seeing the job. As for handles, simple turn handles, one or two, where the locking part of the handle enters a keep rebated into the frame opposite may be the best as you can adjust the keep position to effect a tight compression against the seal. For the seals, I prefer EPDM type joiney ones, many manufacturers use the Aquamc type but personally I don't rate them, I don't like the materials, soft foam with a harder shell which IMO becomes brittle with age.
    I hope this helps and doesn't all sound too patronising.
    Mike

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