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    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2012
     
    Sealing around windows - how much difference do these tape systems make? My windows will be sealed against a plywood box (sealed at the corners) back to the frame using steel straps, with the small gap (about 5mm) sealed with expanding foam. Will the addition of these tapes make a significant difference or would a bead of silicone do just as good a job?
  1.  
    If the tape is secured by plasterboard screw fixed on top then it will remain airtight a lot longer than expanding foam or silicone sealant. I live in a 5 year old developer built house & the silicone sealant has already let go around many of the windows.

    David
  2.  
    There are alternatives to silicone sealers which are designed for the job such as Siga Primur but it costs about £10 a tube, it supposedly has an indefinite lifespan. I got a few tubes of it for places like under the threshold strip of the outer doors where using tape isn't practical.

    My windows came pre-fitted in the TF panels from the factory and had expanding foam around them. I have cut back the excess and sealed with normal silicone, each window takes a tube. I will then finish off the job with Siga Corvum 12/48 tape, all the windows will take 5 rolls in total, which cost me €156 off ebay.de

    The way I see it is that you only get one chance at it so do the best job you can.

    [Edit] It's really up to you to decide if it is worth taking air tightness seriously. The house I currently rent is reasonably well insulated but has very leaky windows and doors, I know from practical experience that it is easier to keep it warm when it is -5 and still outside than it is when it's +5 and windy, so I know that air tightness matters.

    But to what level? There is a school of thought that says once you get to 1 ACH any improvement on that will only see very marginal financial savings and unless your house is on a very exposed site subject to regular gale force winds then spending money to get below that level will not see a return.

    As I see it having made the investment to build a fairly high spec house then I am prepared to spend a little extra (less than £1,000) to ensure that I get the highest level of airtightness I can reasonably achieve. So I will do the extra work on the windows and doors and pay attention to other details such as using a thick rubber self sealing tape anywhere a screw has to penetrate the airtightness membrane. And the biggest cost item will be a blower door test to verify the work.

    Whether the extra expense will have a payback I don't honestly know.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2012
     
    It is not that I am not serious about air-tightness, it is whether the tape in this sort of build up (where there is a good seal from frame inwards already), is worthwhile or to put it another way, will it actually achieve anything. I think the key is the flexibility of the tape making it more likely to move than open up.

    Does anyone have a favourite window tape? I only have Illbruck ME500 as an option and google is not throwing any suppliers of it up. Any suggested suppliers?
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2012
     
    borpin, ME500 is shown on the Tremco-illbruck UK site, perhaps they can advise on distributors.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2012
     
    Posted By: Cav8andrewborpin, ME500 is shown on the Tremco-illbruck UK site, perhaps they can advise on distributors.
    That was my next step but I thought I'd try the collective first!
  3.  
    Here is a study carried out in Norway comparing different airtightness sealing methods around windows which may be of some (limited) assistance.

    web.byv.kth.se/bphys/copenhagen/pdf/040-2.pdf

    However expanding foam or silicone wasn't used in the test although they did test a proprietary expanding foam tape which is used by some of the companies in the window industry, but the results were not very promising.

    I know that normal expanding foam is not airtight, Hilti used to sell an expanding foam CF 812 which was generally considered to be airtight but for whatever reason it no longer appears to be available.

    My own feeling on expanding foams (not backed by any proof) is that whatever level of air tightness they may have is greatly reduced if you cut off the skin on the surface.
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    Chris P Bacon, currently Illbruck and Dr Schenk have expanding foams in their range which have been rated for air tightness but am unsure how they compare to the Hilti product. They appear to the type that are low expansion and remain flexible when cured, which is the type I have used when airsealing, Soudal flexi foam, cures a nice shade of blue too.
    I would agree that most expanding foams have a better chance of remaining airtight if left untrimmed after curing as they appear to form a uniform skin.
    BTW one tin of CF812 on USA Ebay £27.00 (inc. postage of course !)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    I didnt use window tapes but I did build tight seals between all junctions round the windows.
  4.  
    Thanks for that info Cav8andrew.

    Too late for me this time round, I was looking for something to seal around an RSJ and in the end made up a sock of air tightness membrane to fit over it.

    But might be useful to others so I have had a look at the 3 products, unfortunately they are all tested to different standards for air tightness but it looks like the Dr Schenk product is the one to go for as it appears to have the best result and at the highest pressure.

    Hilti CF 812 Air Leakage acc. to ASTM E 283 <0.18 m3.h-1.m-2 (75 Pa)

    Illbruck FM 330 - tested to EN1026 0.1 m3/h @10 Pa

    DR.SCHENK Airtight PU-FOAM Air tightness 0 m3/h @100 Pa [PN EN 1026: 2001]

    The Dr. Schenk product is also reasonably priced at £9 for a 750ml canister.
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    Hi Chris P,
    Thanks for the air tightness comparisons good to know where to spend our money. Another Illbruck product, FM617 claims to be airtight up to 600 Pa's but there appear to be no parameters by which to judge this.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P Baconit supposedly has an indefinite lifespan
    Whattt? Who can say? Personally I assume buildings should be able to last 'indefinitely' if loved and adapted - and that means hundreds of years - why not? Plastic tapes and membranes I'd say are guaranteed to fail in a fraction of that time. Whereas something initially squishy clamped continuously, mechanically, might well last 'indefinitely' unless eaten by something.
  5.  
    Sorry, I was quoting from memory FT, looking at the tube now what it actually says is: "unlimited durability, resistant to ageing" If only it was beauty treatment , they would make a fortune!
  6.  
    Fostertom, we are committed to the membrane and tape route to make our roof structure airtight but your comments do concern me. In your view what are the reasons for failure? Is the main reason due to building movement? Could this be coutered by leaving room for movement in the membrane? I guess there is a tendency when installing the membrane to make it nice and tight and neat which maybe is not the best idea!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    Environmental/chemical/UV degradation of plastics, endless push-pulling by wind loads, fingerprints on surfaces, quite apart from movement. Stickiness just cannot endure for decades, I believe. years ago I was impressed by pressure tester Paul Jennings saying he finds airtightness degrades starting at 6 months in, tapes lifting for no apparent reason etc.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    Tescon tape from pro-clima is good, flexible, and 'very' sticky, but as FT says - exactly how long that will last is hard to say. If mechanically clamped then I reckon 'a long time' - otherwise who knows. Ihave found (by sticking it over a hole in a pierced foam cannister) that it's not actually airtight under high pressure - it stretches and lets air through. I assume it is airtight at normal house pressures - it certainly seem to be.

    I also find normal builders foam to be 'pretty airtight', and good for sealing round windows, as well as gluing them in place. I wouldn't rely on it as sole airtightness method, but foam + tape is pretty good IMHO, and foam alone is better than an uncompressed silicone bead. Silicone used as a gasket material can be excellent and very long-lived. Used as a surface bead sealant it can be OK, but will often fail in less than 10 years, sometimes 1 year. It's vital to use the low-modulus stuff for this application or it won't last long at all.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    @Cav8andrew Soudal flexi foam

    Following this up I found these 2 videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74HnLT9S3io&feature=plcp and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xH8SfIooXYo

    Initial investigations show the SWS appears to not be available in the UK. I've emailed them and will see what comes of that.

    The 'glueing' of the window to a plywood box at the end of the first video intrigues me!
  7.  
    I have allowed for a service void by adding 2"x2" timbers on inside of tape, seems like it would be worth trying to get as many of the taped joints to be mechanically fixing under the timbers then. I assume it's ok to screw a timber on top and through a taped joint, that will not cause a leak?
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Hi borpin, thanks for the link as for one thing it gives me the air tightness component of the foam, but good to see the process of the whole system for when we fit our large windows. Not sure about the rest of the system but the flexi foam element is readily available, just taken delivery of 12 cans, from IronmongeryDirect.
  8.  
    Posted By: Phil.Chaddah-DukeI assume it's ok to screw a timber on top and through a taped joint, that will not cause a leak?


    I'd say it is probably OK, but just to be sure in situations like that I use a rubber tape on top of the airtightness tape to be sure there is no leak. The double side tape used for joining radon barrier is good for this purpose.

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/double-sided-radon-barrier-tape-10m-x-50mm/23552
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Cav8andrewHi borpin, thanks for the link as for one thing it gives me the air tightness component of the foam, but good to see the process of the whole system for when we fit our large windows. Not sure about the rest of the system but the flexi foam element is readily available, just taken delivery of 12 cans, from IronmongeryDirect.
    I emailed them and had a call this morning. They are in the process of introducing the system to the UK so the tapes etc are not readily available. They are going to advise me on this project though so I'll keep to up to speed.

    I pointed the guy in this direction so he may well appear!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: borpinSoudal flexi foam

    Following this up I found these 2 videos
    Eh, les Francais! How come the foam expands to (more or less) fill the space but no more? Because it begins to compress on contact? - or perhaps the bubbles collapse on contact?

    Posted By: borpinThe 'glueing' of the window to a plywood box
    But more often you'd want the box in place before the window arrives - late as usual. Is that foam going to really be the sole airseal between the ply box and the masonry - e.g. rough-texture conc blockwork not nice smooth bricks as illustrated? Would it do that better than a generous Compriband-type tape compressed by the fixings of the ply to the masonry?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: borpinThe 'glueing' of the window to a plywood box
    But more often you'd want the box in place before the window arrives - late as usual. Is that foam going to really be the sole airseal between the ply box and the masonry - e.g. rough-texture conc blockwork not nice smooth bricks as illustrated? Would it do that better than a generous Compriband-type tape compressed by the fixings of the ply to the masonry?
    Possibly, but in my case it would be sealing against the steel frame so a nice smooth finish! I think this was also related to SIP type construction as well. The person I spoke to said the biggest issue is that we put windows in from the outside rather than the inside like the rest of Europe.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2012
     
    Just an update. Some pictures of how we are getting on on my blog www.borpin.co.uk. I got a load of samples from Soudal in exchange for some photos.

    We have done the windows in the Steel Frame using the Soudal Vapourseal low modulus Acrylic sealant and will fill the gap between the ply and the steel frame with the Flexifoam.

    Next is the doors......
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