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    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    I am designing a drain back system for our ST array and could do with some help.

    1. Do i require an air vent to aid drain back function if so can you recommend a good trouble free brand?
    2. If yes to above then should it be fitted to flow or return?
    3. Can someone recommend a reliable pump for a drain back system.
    4. What is the best/cheapest way of providing storage for the drained back water?
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    Buy a proprietary kit. Unless you are a solar designer/accredited installer. Anything else and you will be outside building regs and safety standards.

    If you want to whisper me your design i shall be happy to take a look, but unfortunately neither I nor any other qualified solar installer can publicly suggest you use kit that is not certified and approved to standard. Otherwise you could say...'Well he said it would be fine...' And we would be hung, D & Q'd. :shocked:
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    Posted By: crusoeUnless you are a solar designer/accredited installer. Anything else and you will be outside building regs...

    Which exact building reg do you have in mind?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    Posted By: an02ew: “3. Can someone recommend a reliable pump for a drain back system.”

    I'm planning to try these first: http://www.solarproject.co.uk/page2.html

    No idea of reliability, etc, but they seem to be plastic/ceramic so shouldn't have trouble with oxygenated water in a drainback system. Only 2 metre head though which could be a problem depending on your system set up (my panel manifolds will be just above the tanks) though I see he now does higher head ones.
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    Read British Standards :) I am sure you know them backwards. Notifiable installation & co.

    BS 5918
    BS 7671

    Among other CIBSE guides etc etc.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    “BS” stands for various things.

    If DIY solar thermal has been banned in the UK then it's news to me.

    Some fixed wiring needs to be signed off by a competent person. Pressurized systems of greater than a certain volume (forget what but more than most solar thermal systems & an02ew is planning on drainback which is typically not pressurised) needs a suitably qualified plumber. Roof loadings need some consideration.

    None of this implies the need to use proprietary kit.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    I would use a pump with sufficient head and an old copper hot water cylinder from a soft water area cut in half as the reservoir with a lid and a metal overflow.

    I would not however use a drain back system, what is wrong with fully filled one? Oh yes air valve all metal type and at the highest point which I would make at the return end of the top of the panel.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    Crusoe, i am not totally mad, not yet anyway,:crazy: i have the help of my old friend Mark a qualified plumber and ex solar thermal installer. The ex-bit stand for about 2 years out of the business. So a little rusty and he has no experience of drain back systems all previous were pressurized glycol.



    Posted By: Ed DaviesOnly 2 metre head though which could be a problem depending on your system set up



    Our head will be about 5M


    Posted By: tonywhat is wrong with fully filled one?


    We have decided to use drain back to save us money on coils as we are using 2 cylinders 1 dedicated DHW and 500l buffer should be a cheaper system all-round (see previous posts www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=9507&page=2#Item_5) where I think Crusoe was more than helpful in design my system (not so concerned about comeback)


    Can we have a fully filled system that uses just the primary water and no glycol? Obviously inc an expansion vessel.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    When you say 5m head is this from the level of fluid in the drain back reservoir to the top of the panel?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    Drain back can mean that all the warm water drains out of the panel when the sun goes in and the PV-powered pump stops - then there's no standing warm water left in the panel to lose all its heat outwards, which then has to be re-heated when the sun comes out again. Not important when there's long periods of clear sky, but makes all the difference when the sun is coming and going.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    Posted By: tonyWhen you say 5m head is this from the level of fluid in the drain back reservoir to the top of the panel?


    yes. roughly
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    It sounds to like you will have a heavy electric demand on the pump and should consider this in calculating the costs of running the system, again raise the drain back to just below the panels and again consider a fulled system?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    The pump can run on PV - it's only needed when the sun shines.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    it could if it didnt have to lift the water so high.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    I agree with Tony - it's probably best to keep the reservoir just below the panels if possible. The fluid volume in the panels is typically not large (e.g., 1 or 2 litres for heat-pipe ETs) so the reservoir doesn't have to be all that big. The parts of the system not vulnerable to freezing temperatures don't need to drain.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomThe pump can run on PV
    Posted By: tonyit could if it didnt have to lift the water so high.
    Eh?
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    an02ew: That changes the perspective a little. The reason I recommended an all-in package is that there is less chance of mistakes (and more chance of RHI...eventually) with an approved supplier. If your guy is happy to spec a system and install it, fine. A simple-but-effective, and last-forever S/S drainback ensemble is made by German firm PAW. Available from Barilla at a bargain price as we speak, complete with WILO pump. And no air vent. Don't need one of those :)

    DHW and separate TS is sensible. Size DHW at around 50 l per m2 of collector. Store whatever size you like - main principle to remember is to have enough capacity, based on your solar pattern, to be able to absorb whatever is thrown at you WITHOUT draining down. as fostertom points out, drainback is wasteful, if installed to conventional wisdom. If oversize, it never drains down when sun is out anyway! Cloudy days are another issue.

    fostertom: See above - it's gotta beat stagnation and the associated problems!

    Tony: If a soft-water (read acidic) cylinder is taken out, it will be because it pinholed. That's what soft water does to copper. And duplex brass - hence the DZR/CR/gunmetal variety available in those areas.

    Ed: Of course drainback is pressurised. Just because it is filled at atmospheric and there is no expansion vessel does not mean it is not pressurised. The air volume above the fill-exit point in a drainback system will take up the slack as the fluid heats, but all drainback/flowback (pick your moniker) will have a PRV as standard...if supplied by an approved supplier. If not approved - ie proprietary product it won't get signed off. What are you saying? Use non-approved product?

    Size of drainback vessel will be specified by the supplier. Do not fit unless they recommend type or your guarantee will not be worth a sunburn's pleasure.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012
     
    Thanks Crusoe, glad to have you on board,

    we have just install an 4x 20 tube array from "solar collect" say each bank is 3.5M gross or 1.89M aperture area.
    I am planning say 210l DHW cylinder with back up 500L buffer and 1kw solar dump (a crude AGS) in the ground under our house. My good friend and old solar thermal installer Mark has express mild concern of overheat. But i have convinced him the AGS and buffer will deal with any overheat. Our system has to deal with all our DHW and have a good recharge, hence the oversize.

    Posted By: crusoeA simple-but-effective, and last-forever S/S drainback ensemble is made by German firm PAW.


    i have just seen the PAW drain back systems they look very good.

    What do you think to mounting this PAW unit in the plant room (say 5M head) or under the panels in the roof? even if i do put the unit in the roof the pump still has to circulate to the plant room surly no great energy saving wherever I mount it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: an02ew1kw solar dump (a crude AGS) in the ground under our house.

    Posted By: an02ewMy good friend and old solar thermal installer Mark has express mild concern of overheat.

    At what temperature differentials will it be a 1 kW dump. Have you looked at detailed data for your area?

    Had a look for you, this is the frequency distribution for near you, just have to work out where any over heating may occur with respect to solar input.
      Taunton Solar Resource.jpg
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012
     
    Posted By: crusoeEd: Of course drainback is pressurised. Just because it is filled at atmospheric and there is no expansion vessel does not mean it is not pressurised.

    Well, yes, in the silly sense that any plumbing full of water is pressurized; even 1 mm below the top of an open tank is above atmospheric pressure. But from the point of view of building regulations, etc, it's perfectly possible to have a drainback system (or pretty much any ST system, really) which is not pressurised in the same sense that a central heating system with an open fill/expansion tank is not considered pressurised (doesn't need special tickets and annual inspections, etc).

    That's not commonly done with ST systems which are not drainback as it's often awkward to have the FE tank above the panels. Also, having a higher pressure allows the temperature to go above 100 °C (though I'm not convinced that's a good argument but let's not be distracted by that).

    However, with a drainback system where the reservoir and the FE tank can be the same thing and needs to be below all the freeze-vulnerable parts it seems very sensible to me for it not to be a “pressurized” system in the regulatory sense.

    The air volume above the fill-exit point in a drainback system will take up the slack as the fluid heats, but all drainback/flowback (pick your moniker) will have a PRV as standard...if supplied by an approved supplier.

    I don't believe you. Central heating systems with an FE tank don't have a PRV; why should an ST system in the same circumstances?

    If not approved - ie proprietary product it won't get signed off.

    Really? What form of approval? It might make for more discussion with the BCO but I really doubt there's any specific rule which says you can't use any components which haven't been specifically approved by somebody.

    What are you saying? Use non-approved product?

    Yes, if you feel like it. E.g., I'd happily try the pump I linked to above even though there's nothing on the web page or in the video about it which says anything about any approvals. My guess would be that it might or might not have some sort of certification in China or wherever but not anywhere in the EC.

    However, that wasn't your original assertion with which I took issue. Your wrote:

    Posted By: crusoeBuy a proprietary kit. Unless you are a solar designer/accredited installer. Anything else and you will be outside building regs and safety standards.

    Even if there was some “rule” that you had to use all “approved” components it wouldn't follow that you have to buy a proprietary kit as it could well be OK to source the components from multiple sources. Give or take issues with gas and pressurised systems a DIYer can self-install a central heating system without buying a kit, can't they? What's different about solar thermal?
  1.  
    Posted By: Ed DaviesCentral heating systems with an FE tank don't have a PRV; why should an ST system in the same circumstances?

    I always put a PRV in open systems, usually as close to the boiler as possible. As was explained to me by a wizened old plumber - its in case some plonker does a bit of DIY or that the F&E tank in the loft freezes up. Made sense then and still makes sense now, so I fit PRVs
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012 edited
     
    Peter: Couldn't have put the DIY bit better myself - hence my caution in advising DIYers. There is no requirement for PRV in open vent in the UK, but in colder climates I do understand the precaution.

    Ed: Your points in order:

    1. No. Different issue. We are not talking static head of water - a known pressure - in open-vented systems. We are talking sealed system, with designed-in air gap - see PAW or Filsol's Newark tapping positioning for self-evident air-gap, to take expansion. Having a joint blow because you don't understand the system isn't going to endear you to the customer.

    2. Same point really, again you compare an F&E tank for some reason with a sealed solar system. The comparison is irrelevant, chalk and cheese. Whether you believe me or not is also irrelevant. But to solve the issue in everyone's mind, do list a UK approved product that doesn't recommend a PRV in a drainback (or flowback, same thing) sealed solar thermal system.

    3. Simply put, unless the kit is approved to BS5918 or equivalent standards, it will not be signed off by the installer (if he values his licence) or the BCO who is looking for evidence of safety and hence needs mfrs to list their approval, BS or equivalent. The following also apply:

    BS EN 12975-1:2006. Thermal solar systems and components. Solar collectors. General requirements
    • BS EN 12975-2:2006. Thermal solar systems and components. Solar collectors. Test methods
    • BS EN 12976-1:2001. Thermal solar systems and components. Factory made systems. General requirements
    • BS EN 12976-2:2006. Thermal solar systems components. Factory made systems. Test methods
    • DD ENV 12977-1:2001. Thermal solar systems and components. Custom built systems. General requirements
    • DD ENV 12977-2:2001. Thermal solar systems and components. Custom built systems. Test methods
    • DD ENV 12977-3:2001. Thermal solar systems and components. Custom built systems. Performance characterisation of stores for solar heating systems

    3. Good luck with getting it past the BCO. This from a local council's BCO: Note the differentiation between factory and other!

    1.
    Factory made solar water heating systems to conform to BS EN 12976-1:2006 - Thermal solar systems and components. Factory made systems. General requirements.
    2.
    Other solar water heating systems to conform with pr/EN/TS 12977-1:2008 Thermal solar systems and components. Custom built systems. General requirements for solar water heaters and combi systems, or BS 5918:1989 BSCP Solar heating systems for domestic hot water (further guidance available from CIBSE Guide G).

    Either way, pick-and-mix or factory, you need approval.

    4. Answered by 3.

    5. I have shown above that you DO have to use approved components. My advice to any DIYer is to get the kit from ONE source, as otherwise you will have multiple inputs from multiple experts, and no guarantee of compatability. 8m2 of Hi=per panel with a titchy coil in an unvented cylinder. And other snakes weddings. I have attended many such murine divorces after a few weeks of the customer desparately, belatedly, seeking good advice. Installed by one of Peter's plumber's plonkers, unconsciously dangerous.

    In this context, of a specialist installation requiring specialist knowledge, advising any DIYer to get diverse bits of kit of unknown provenance or safety is not just reckless but highly irresponsible. You recommended this before an02ew even said he had a competent person to help! If you had ever seen the DIY/bad plumber nightmares most professionals come across on a regular basis, or have to carry the can for the advice you offer, you would never be offering the unqualified advice you do, such as no PRV in a drainback system.

    Your analogy of CH is also not apposite, as gas needs a gas engineer to sign it off, oil ditto , solid fuel ditto. If they noted something wrong with the install, they would refuse to commission it. You would not believe the number of second calls for that very reason, once they have checked with BCo or their auntie's hamster that yes, they DO have to do what you say and put a PRV in a sealed system, etc etc.
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012
     
    an02ew: what you suggest sounds fine, but what concern with overheat does Mark have? If the system is getting too warm in-toto, it drains back, no overheat. It cannot, if designed properly (hence my suggestion for staying with one supplier if possible) stagnate.

    Re the AGS dump however - if you are seriously getting sunshine in these quantities, consider a high-limit stat on the 500 litre store to send the overheat to a drying room (see recent thread). Most people would give their eye teeth to have spare ST for this purpose. :cool:
  2.  
    Posted By: crusoeThere is no requirement for PRV in open vent in the UK, but in colder climates I do understand the precaution.

    The wizened old plumber to whom I referred was in the UK and I have seen a couple F&E tanks frozen up in the UK, both caused by wild life destroying the tank insulation, there might be no regulatory requirement for PRV in an open system but I don't see that as reason not to fit them at what is a small additional cost for my peace of mind.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2012
     
    Funny how Navitron, Eco-nomical and Solarproject are still in business, what with all their customers being banged up....

    (Oh, when I listed some of the legal concerns with a DIY solar thermal system above I forgot the requirements for the filling method to comply with water regulations.)
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2012
     
    The main advantage of a drainback system is that you can turn it off when your tank is full of heat. The water drops out and the panel is left to get 'jolly hot' on its own. They are immune to stagnation. This is really useful on oversize systems designed to give heating system support (much more common on the continent than here, mostly for good reasons of latitude, but also convention.)

    As to the requirements to buy everything from one place, all the listed standards and BCO requirements, I'm with Ed here: Crusoe is talking complete nonsense. There is nothing notifiable about a DIY solar thermal system (except often electrics), and you can make it out of whatever bits you choose. It's much _easier_ to get a designed system from one supplier but there is no regulatory requirement to do so. And people on the Navitron forum have been doing so for years without mishap, improving on some of the 'industry standard' system features in the process. (I did mine in 2009, and it's great: entirely free hot bath today, despite being nearly October).

    Now it is true that if you are looking at RHI payments then you will almost certainly need everything to be 'MCS certified' which will indeed exclude both all sorts of perfectly good kit and anything you screw on yourself simply because you haven't sent yourself on a lot of expensive certification courses. That's the same nonsense that has made DIY PV a fairly pointless exercise in the UK, because screwing the _exact same kit_ the _exact same way_ to your roof simply doesn't count. However again, it isn't banned - you just don't get any payments (and there are regulations/requirements affecting the inverter and the electrics).
  3.  
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: fostertomThe pump can run on PV
    Posted By: tonyit could if it didnt have to lift the water so high.
    Eh?
    Drainback systems often have two pumps; a high power one to lift the water into the solar thermal collectors initially & a lower power one to circulate the water once the collectors are charged.

    David
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughDrainback systems often have two pumps; a high power one to lift the water into the solar thermal collectors initially & a lower power one to circulate the water once the collectors are charged.

    For the low power pump to work a syphon would need to be held in the collectors. So how does the drainback work, then? I have various options in mind for this: either a motorised valve in the air-bleed path from the top of the collector or some sort of restriction in the flow out of the collector. Haven't decided yet and suspect that a bit of experimentation will be required.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    Experiments are always good :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    I'd like to get that straight too, Ed.

    Posted By: davidfreeboroughDrainback systems often have two pumps; a high power one to lift the water into the solar thermal collectors initially & a lower power one to circulate the water once the collectors are charged.
    So why can't both be PV powered, as both are only reqd when the sun shines?
   
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