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Posted By: wookeyGlue boards to masonry. Glue plasterboard/multipro on top. Polyurethane foam glue, continuous bead and cross pattern to check any airflow.
Posted By: wookeyDot and dab is a bad plan too (thermal bypass). You can use that glue instead of polyurethane if you like mixing, but still need to make sure perimeter is continuous
Posted By: andykentand there is clear evidence of paint blistering where external moisture has tried to get through.
Posted By: andykent@wookey, I don't see how the methods you mention cause thermal "bypasses", as none of the relevant elements penetrate the insulation...
Posted By: Nick ParsonsSuegreenbuilding, why do you not do it as per the Celotex sheet I attached above? That way you have no vulnerable timber on the cold side.
Posted By: Paul in MontrealThat's exactly how I did it (as mentioned in several threads in the past)
Posted By: SaintPaul, since reading your thread I've been recommending the same, seems eminently sensible and practical.....but not, for me at least though, with phenolic, other plastic foams yes.
Posted By: suegreenbuildingI had a long talk with the technical guy at one phenolic insulation manufacturer and it is not on their radar to glue the boards to the wall owing to the foil facing.
Posted By: Nick ParsonsIs that because of a perceived tendency of phenolic foam to 'suck'?
Posted By: wookeyGlue boards to masonry. Glue plasterboard/multipro on top. Polyurethane foam glue, continuous bead and cross pattern to check any airflow. Quick, easy, effective.
Posted By: spoonandforkyou're using PU foam glue to attach the insulation to the wall / pb to the insulation? I would have thought this expanded and pushed the things off the wall...
Posted By: wookeyThe glue foam is low-expansion, unlike the normal foam. It does still have some tendency to push the board away from the wall a few mm so you have to lean on it for ~5 mins until it's set (or put in extra fixings)
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