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    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    We have been renovating our house over the last year or so and have now reached a part of the house which is in a good condition decoration wise but the wife wants better sound insulation between two rooms which are divided by a stud wall.

    I had toyed with the idea of putting up two layers of Soundshield plasterboard staggering the joints. I have noticed however that for the same money I could put up six layers of normal plaster board. So I was wondering which option would give the better acoustic deadening effect?

    Jonti
  1.  
    I would tend to avoid ordinary plasterboard for most jobs. It is too easily damaged, doesn't retain fixings & feels flimsy when rapped with the knuckles. Acoustic plasterboard seems a lot tougher & easier to work with.

    Acoustic plasterboard shouldn't be that much more expensive than the ordinary stuff. Are you comparing equal weights? It generally costs about 35-50% more for a 30-35% increase in weight per square meter. Its worth paying if you need to meet a given specification in a limited thickness, but you will be able to meet the same specification without it if space isn't an issue.

    You need isolation as well as weight. So you should budget for some resilient bars or additional framing. How about fixing resilient bars to one face of the existing wall & 2 layers of 15mm acoustic plasterboard to that? If space is not a problem, build an independent metal stud wall just inside, but not fixed to the existing wall & fix 2 layers of 15mm ordinary plasterboard to that.

    Any higher performance than that is likely to lead to acoustic bypass via floor/ceiling voids.

    David
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    Thanks for the feedback David,

    I will think it over.

    Jonti
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2012
     
    Been dealing with such things recently. I would suggest, in order of priority

    1) Staggered double stud, gap filled with lots of dense but cheap heavy-ish flexible insulation quilt such as sheepwool or rockwool acoustic.

    2) additional layer of plasterboard
    or
    2) denser board such as acoustic plasterboard or Mg Silicate board

    3) additional layer of board

    Biggest benefit will come from 1). Whether rest are worth doing also will depend how otherwise quiet the surroundings are. If you can't do the staggered double stud then it is still worth doing two layers on single stud.

    Watch out for (and do not be taken in by) ridiculous pseudo-science (I hate that) on many of the acoustic products web sites. Do not fall for miracle products that claim to fix all.

    There is this old reference but the pictures don't seem to work any more

    http://www.sae.edu/reference_material/pages/STC%20Chart.htm
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2012
     
    A gloomy aspect of sound control IIRC is that if you manage to halve the energy of the noise getting through, you will only get a just-perceptible reduction in apparent noise level. This is because of the logarithmic nature of our hearing system - it has such a wide range to cover. So .... if you want a big reduction, whatever method you use, you have to do a lot of it.
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2012
     
    Someone on the old Yahoo self-build forum used Fermacell either side filled with blown Warmce in a B&B and reported excellent soundproofing and impression of solidity. No figures I'm afraid.
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2012 edited
     
    Just to add some useful numbers to what Mike says...

    The STC (commonly used in USA) is a weighted dB average reduction.
    dB is a log scale.

    Some handy rules of thumb:-
    Every 3dB reduction is a halving of sound intensity.
    Every 6dB reduction is a halving of sound energy.
    But our ears are very adaptive so it takes about a 10dB reduction to halve the *apparent* sound level.

    If you want a quiet wall you should really be looking for > 40dB reduction.
    You may also have to consider sound going around (eg. under) your wall.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2012
     
    And building out of solid heavy weight masonry
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2012
     
    Thanks for all the replies. I will think it over and let all know what I do and the results.

    Jonti
  2.  
    I used Knauf soundboard when I reboarded the party wall in our back bedroom. Originally it had hardboard nailed to battens on the 9" concrete block wall.

    To be honest I haven't noticed any difference, but I could hardly hear the neighbours before, though as I had to reboard anyway to redecorate I thought I might as well use sound board.

    It is *much* heavier than ordinary plasterboard so quite hard to handle in large sheets - definitely a two person job!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2012
     
    Posted By: tonyAnd building out of solid heavy weight masonry

    Only thing its good for :bigsmile:
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