Green Building Bible ((both volumes) fourth edition) These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.
1 year Green Building magazine subscription Green Building magazine is the UK's only eco-building magazine. It always features a wide range of eco-building projects from all around the UK.
Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.
Does anyone know what the heat loss through the air vent for a non-roomsealed boiler might be? I hadn't given it too much thought until I took the grille off to install IWI and noticed how large the pipe is! It's a standard 100cm^3 free air fitting. I'm guessing fairly horrific.
Almost entirely dependent on wind speed and how airtight the house is, could be quantified on a windless day as it is then a simple passive stack ventilation air flow resistance of the thermal siphon up the chimney, not very relevant to the real situation though.
The house is not very airtight as there is ventilation into the wall cavities just below where they open into the loft (gradually removing them though, as I believe they were there for the original coal fire) plus the structure generally isn't very airtight.
Posted By: finnyDo you have a plan for getting fresh air into the renovated house?
I imagine that getting it sufficiently air tight is going to be more of an issue, but advice on this would be welcome.
The external structure is inherently non-air tight in particular the second storey walls which are steel clad and the roof which is of asbestos cement sheets. My IWI is not going to be especially air tight as though I've sealed the joins, it's not possible to get an airtight seal at all the edges such as against internal walls and where the upstairs and downstairs IWI will meet between floors.
There is a ventilator in the loft hatch that I have temporarily sealed which could be opened if necessary.
Generally people get obsessive about stopping up all leaks in buildings. Short of perfectly airtight envelopes with heat recovery ventilation which is more a new build ideal, most houses rely on passive ventilation for the fresh air necessary. Flues, open fires and woodstoves are a traditional method of passive ventilation. If you don't want to feel the draught of the air your stove is drawing, simply take it from more than one place in the house/room. Nothing in the building regs states that open vent needs to come from one source only. Permanently open trickle vents soon add up to most minimum requirements.. ps..in advanced countries there are no heating engineers, they are called heating and ventilation engineers