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  1.  
    Hi- I'm in the process of retro IWI insulating my 300yr old stone cottage. I've lined the interior walls with 6" of celotex and had planned on fixing plasterboard over the top and giving it a coat of lime plaster but it occured to me that a simpler way may be to take off the foil skin of the Celotex facing the room, scratch up the foam and plaster directly on to the insulation. The depth of the celotex and the crumbly stonework actually makes it quite difficult to fix to.

    I've done a couple of test pieces on scraps to see how it adheres but ;
    a) has anyone done this before of have and suggestions/ views on whether the plaster would adhere longterm?
    and
    b) does anyone know how much the performance of the celotex would be reduced by removing the inside foil?

    Your help, as always gratefully received
    Bob
  2.  
    has anyone done this before

    Not to Pu, but have successfully tiled onto XPS. Do a ccouple of test-pieces. good luck!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    I would be worried about the boards shrinking and then the plaster cracking.
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012 edited
     
    Golden rule of rendering/plastering.

    The render or plaster must always be weaker than the substrate.

    There used to be different classes of plaster ranging from hard(brittle) to soft (malleable) each used depending upon the undercoat used [Cement , Carlite etc) I think even the softest would be too brittle to plaster over PUR - disaster waiting to happen

    I can maybe see how tiling would stand the test of time on XPS, as it would rely more on the type of adhesive used - some react chemically with the XPS forming a very durable bond
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    I think you'll then end up with a potential vapour barrier i.e. the remaining foil face of the Celotex on the cold side of the insulation and so face possible interstitial condensation?
  3.  
    I did a small area with stainless mesh and coarse lime plaster (NHL 5)
    But it was only a small triangle about 12" along the sides, at the top of a wall where it meets the roofslope
    Been ok so far (one year)
  4.  
    Saint said:

    ''I think you'll then end up with a potential vapour barrier i.e. the remaining foil face of the Celotex on the cold side of the insulation and so face possible interstitial condensation? ''

    That always bothers me anyway, in that in the vast majority of installations there will be *some* leak in the VCL. Any vapour getting past there meets another VCL! It does seem to complicate the 'sandwich'.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2012
     
    Polyurethane breaks down when it is wet, I don't think it is a good idea.
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2012 edited
     
    If you have kids charging around I'm not so sure it would survive. On the other hand you could avoid a few trips to casualty using its shock absorbing properties. Bit like soft-play centres but with a crispy coating.

    On the vapour barrier threat I don't really understand (as in genuinely ignorant) , if there's no air gap between the lime and the foam where does the condesation form? If behind the foam I don't think it's that different to plasterboarding.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: RobinBif there's no air gap between the lime and the foam where does the condesation form?

    I don't get that either.
    Though some materials can absorb moisture.
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2012
     
    Condensation of the vapour could occur, if unchecked by a VCL on the warm side of the insulation, at the dew point somewhere around the interface of the inner face of the existing structure and the outer face of the insulation. The existence of a VCL albeit just the foil facing near that very interface will stop the vapour permeating beyond that point and so there would be a real chance of interstitial condensation forming within the insulation itself.
  5.  
    If you're going to do it, embed a layer of fiber-glass mesh in the plaster to prevent cracking. I'd embed the mesh into a hard cement plaster (like floor tile glue) first to stop people sticking their fingers into it.

    The alu-foil slows down Pentane gas migration so the U-value will be less than you expect.

    Airtighten between the sheets with foam and you'll have no problems with condensation within the insulation especially if you install humidity activated ventilation.
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