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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorPugliese
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2012
     
    Sorry for all the questions but I am at that stage of the build!

    We are having a slate roof and as we are surrounded by trees, the idea of installing copper strips that leach copper sulphate to keep the roof clear of moss appeals. I have been told that if we use copper nails that will be sufficient.

    True or false???
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2012
     
    Interesting problem, not really that environmentally good to allow copper sulphate to leach into the ground/water/sewage.
    But I dislike moss and other growth on a roof (the wind and rain tends to stop anything growing here).
    Modern anti-foul paint my do it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2012
     
    But what's the anti-foul paint got in it? Must be something biologically toxic. Unless simply smooth as baby's bottom.
    • CommentAuthoratomicbisf
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2012
     
    I find the birds tend to peck it off, presumably to get to any insects etc underneath. A little lichen or moss growth doesn't bother me. As slates are smooth, you don't normally see much moss growth on it.
  1.  
    We have slate roof under trees, the old half is mossy but only on the N side. The newerwas reroofed 40 years ago and seems not to have got moss yet, still young.

    How about waiting to see if there is a problem? Give it a decade or two then decide.

    Gutters on the other hand are always full of leaves. The deep flow profile is much worse than the old cast half round, seems deep enough that leaves blow in but not out again.
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2012
     
    If it helps - we decided we did not want to afford to replace the roof covering (ugly but otherwise mostly sound redland 49 concrete tiles) but had quite a bit of moss on it, so I have cleaned almost ever tile by hand with a scraper and brushed them, hosed off, sprayed a strong bleach solution (I know bleach, sorry), hosed and them finally fitted 2.5 mm stripped copper cable to below the ridge of all aspects, to stop future build up. Crazy I know, but heard from a few sources it works. Will let you know just before I die if it has.
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2012
     
    Posted By: PuglieseSorry for all the questions but I am at that stage of the build!

    We are having a slate roof and as we are surrounded by trees, the idea of installing copper strips that leach copper sulphate to keep the roof clear of moss appeals. I have been told that if we use copper nails that will be sufficient.

    True or false???


    It will help and moss does not stick to slate slate anything like it does to fibre cement of concrete tiles. Be be certain you could always have a copper roof, but that makes welsh slate look very cheap
  2.  
    One of the reasons I used Nu-Lok porcelain roof tiles was that they are virtually completely non porous as can be seen by how quickly the roof dries after rain. I was told they should remain moss free for 50 years, only time will tell but I won't be around to witness it!
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Pugliese</cite>Sorry for all the questions but I am at that stage of the build!

    We are having a slate roof and as we are surrounded by trees, the idea of installing copper strips that leach copper sulphate to keep the roof clear of moss appeals. I have been told that if we use copper nails that will be sufficient.

    True or false???</blockquote>


    We have natural slate with copper nails in a wet area and shading from the south and after 4 years the roof is starting to grow various sorts of greenery. Admittedly I have not seen any moss but lichens and green slime aplenty.
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2012 edited
     
    I have just had a good look at the various roofs here.

    Ours as mentioned above is east-west facing with Brazilian slate fixed with copper nails is growing things, and on close this inspection includes moss.

    Roof over the road also east-west but Spanish slate with stainless hooks and no copper nails has very slight growth but much less than ours and it was re-roofed at the same time as ours.

    Small shed roof facing south-north, reused delabole has no growth on south side and I don't think any on north but it is hard to see that face.

    Another nearby roof is artificial slate, east-west and is coverd in moss. this roof is about 20 years old.

    Hope this helps
    Beau
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: PuglieseI have been told that if we use copper nails that will be sufficient.

    I don't think the copper nails should be getting wet if the roof is correctly made so I don't really see how they can do anything. Is the moss bad or just don't like the look of it?

    With enough moss you could start view it as a basic rain water attenuation system.
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2012
     
    We run a copper wire along the ridge as we have 60yr old cedar shingles. It is most effective wherever the wire touches the shingles. Its is only roughly draped across so doesnt rest on the surface all the way along. It does work though, and a strip nailed along the ridge with constant contact would be the ideal.
    • CommentAuthorwindy lamb
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2012
     
    As already said, the copper nails shouldn't be getting wet anyway so these should make no difference. The quality of the slate will. If you use really good welsh slate then Moss will take years - because the slate is totally impervious and gives nothing for the Moss to grip. If you use cheap Chinese etc stuff then it's not slate, it's shale or even mudstone (Geologically speaking) and will be soft and semi-porous - lots of grip for the Moss. You get what you pay for - we couldn't afford proper slate so got the fibre-composite stuff, a big mistake. I spend many hours per year on the roof.
    Save up and buy second hand welsh slate or at least the best quality foreign slate (make sure that has a quality mark and get reference samples to check the main delivery against). Don't do what I did unless you've got a good ladder!
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 19th 2012
     
    Whilst I agree that copper nails will not contribute much, copper disk rivets would (a bit) and they do get wet
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: nikhoward</cite>Whilst I agree that copper nails will not contribute much, copper disk rivets would (a bit) and they do get wet</blockquote>

    The artificial slate that I mentioned was covered in moss is fixed with copper disc rivets.

    Pugliese
    If it would help I can take pictures of the various roofs here so can see the differences.
    • CommentAuthorPugliese
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012 edited
     
    Thanks guys for the ideas and thoughts - and Beau for the offer of pictures.

    I agree that the copper nails on their own will not be sufficient and the quality of slate will have quite a bearing.

    I also was going for a composite slate but was convinced to change because of the problems highlighted here and the look, also after some hard negotiation, the cost was not so much more.

    Spent quite some time with my roofer and also spoke to an ex rep of Siga who had a very interesting chart, showing the different mines in different countries and then grading and comments on the quality and any issues with the slates. Helped us reject a lot of slate and understand you cannot grade slate by country alone, there is good and bad coming out of every country. Unfortunately he would not let me have a copy of the chart .

    We ended choosing Spanish Sarria Slates http://www.ssqgroup.com/PDFs/First_Sarria_Blue.pdf - very flat, good colour/look and that the National Trust have chosen them on a big build and they come with a 75 year guarantee. Also the price was great at 92p on a 500x250 for 1st grade (2nd's are 10p cheaper)

    So I am happy with the slate and if I do get problems, I will just run some copper wire:smile:
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    Why not just hand scrape once every five years or so? using a cherry picker and a long handled scraper/brush means it is quick, safe and most importantly green!!! It will also give you the chance to check the roof at the same time.

    Willi,

    try putting wire mesh covers across the top of your guttering to stop the leaves blowing in:bigsmile:

    Jonti
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: Beau
    Posted By: nikhowardWhilst I agree that copper nails will not contribute much, copper disk rivets would (a bit) and they do get wet


    The artificial slate that I mentioned was covered in moss is fixed with copper disc rivets.

    Pugliese
    If it would help I can take pictures of the various roofs here so can see the differences.


    Only meant disk rivets would slightly assist, to be sure use good slate, run copper wire and clean every few years
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: nikhowardIf it helps - we decided we did not want to afford to replace the roof covering (ugly but otherwise mostly sound redland 49 concrete tiles) but had quite a bit of moss on it, so I have cleaned almost ever tile by hand with a scraper and brushed them, hosed off, sprayed a strong bleach solution (I know bleach, sorry), hosed and them finally fitted 2.5 mm stripped copper cable to below the ridge of all aspects, to stop future build up. Crazy I know, but heard from a few sources it works. Will let you know just before I die if it has.


    So do as above and as I decided not to afford to use slate I will just have to do the cleaning bit again in a few years
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012 edited
     
    A pic just below my (replaced) ridge (I have placed all new reclaimed tiles to the top course on rear elevation so all originals are to the front). The wire is tucked into the butyl of the vented ridge system system ever metre or so you have to looked hard or zoom the see the wire

    For tips on sourcing or stripping cable please ask
      image.jpg
  3.  
    Posted By: nikhowardA pic just below my (replaced) ridge (I have placed all new reclaimed tiles to the top course on rear elevation so all originals are to the front). The wire is tucked into the butyl of the vented ridge system system ever metre or so you have to looked hard or zoom the see the wire

    For tips on sourcing or stripping cable please ask
      image.jpghttps:///forum114/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=3387" >

    When I put up interlocking tiles I always off set the tile edges to avoid the possibility of water running down from join to join looking for the way in
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeNov 13th 2012
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: nikhowardA pic just below my (replaced) ridge (I have placed all new reclaimed tiles to the top course on rear elevation so all originals are to the front). The wire is tucked into the butyl of the vented ridge system system ever metre or so you have to looked hard or zoom the see the wire

    For tips on sourcing or stripping cable please ask
      image.jpghttp:///forum114/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=3387" >

    When I put up interlocking tiles I always off set the tile edges to avoid the possibility of water running down from join to join looking for the way in



    Hi Peter,

    Same for me, but this is the style round here, every house with these tiles are like this (I looked) and to do that I would have had to strip the whole roof (which it already feels like I have any way). They do have a double drip side detail on the male and female tongue though which works.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeNov 13th 2012
     
    What is the matter with moss on the roof?
  4.  
    Posted By: nikhoward
    When I put up interlocking tiles I always off set the tile edges to avoid the possibility of water running down from join to join looking for the way in

    Posted By: nikhowardSame for me, but this is the style round here, every house with these tiles are like this (I looked)

    The builders do that because its quicker to put the tiles up and less wastage because there is no cutting one end and if the chippy got the overhang right - no cutting either end.

    Posted By: pmusgroveWhat is the matter with moss on the roof?

    In the tiles shown above moss can grow on and in the interlocking sides and cause rain water to back up and overflow the interlocks.
    • CommentAuthornikhoward
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2013
     
    Posted By: nikhowardIf it helps - we decided we did not want to afford to replace the roof covering (ugly but otherwise mostly sound redland 49 concrete tiles) but had quite a bit of moss on it, so I have cleaned almost ever tile by hand with a scraper and brushed them, hosed off, sprayed a strong bleach solution (I know bleach, sorry), hosed and them finally fitted 2.5 mm stripped copper cable to below the ridge of all aspects, to stop future build up. Crazy I know, but heard from a few sources it works. Will let you know just before I die if it has.


    Update: a tny bit of moss has come back, but the copper is working a treat on the lichen!
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