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    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2012
     
    fostertom,

    in the coldest 20 days of the year what does the temp in a PH drop to if no secondary heating is used? If it stays above 16C then would not an extra pullover be the answer.

    Jonti
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2012 edited
     
    Jonti

    The balance temperature will be specific to the particular house and will depend on its fenestration, orientation, the weather (cold/sunny or freezing fog) and by no means least, the lifestyle of the occupants.

    No way can the internal gains from a family of 4 living the passive house lifestyle meet the heat losses during the coldest weather.

    We are involved in the design of 8 Passivhaus certified homes and the heat losses are around 1,300 Watts at -3 degC external ambient & 20 degC average internal. I would expect incidental gains for a family of 4 at no more than 700 Watts. Without solar input or additional heating the space temperature could in theory drop to

    (-3) + (700/1300 x 23) = 9.4 degC.

    For this to happen the outside temperature would have to stay at a diurnal average of -3 degC or less for several days with no solar gains - but more extreme conditions than this were experienced in Dec 2010.

    We have therefore allowed for electric heating and PV. I would love to try solar heating on this project but our Client does not have the budget.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2012
     
    GaryB,

    9.4C is pretty chilly, don't think a pullover would fit the bill:wink: Thanks for the reply

    Jonti
  1.  
    I've haven't seen Passive Houses get any colder than 16 degrees when unoccupied in winter, when its really cold there's plenty sun, when its overcast the temperature is rarely below 5-7 degrees.
    My brother went away for a week the winter before last which was the really cold one (-15C), his brother in law collected him from the airport, when he got back home his brother in law walked into the house and said "You left the heating on!" The heating had been off for a week.

    Hi Gary, what construction method will you use, where are you building, will you cover the complete roof with PV and what was the cost you got for Solar Thermal space heating?
    • CommentAuthoreniacs
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2012
     
    GaryB it sounds like your client has taken the best financial option there. With the FIT the solar PV makes a lot of sense at the moment and for a PH house will offset the energy used during the winter cold months easily, making the house an income in the summer and covering for all electrical costs. This makes more sense to me than direct solar heating as at best this would remove the need for the c£200 electrical heating requirement pa. I look forward to the RHI to be able to change this however as I think we will see a massive take up and a reduction in the price of heating panels at the same time.

    When i moved into my house I noticed that the temperature qucikly drops off once the heating had been off for a couple hours. But thinking about it, the laws of thermodynamics means that the inside of the house (asuming no heating or incidental gains) will eventually reach the average outdoor temperature. If during a cold spell then the house will reach the cold outdoor temperatures after a few hours or days, depending on insulation levels.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2012
     
    GaryB, Like VH, I'm surprised by your very low prediction. Internal gains of 700 W less the heat from four people leaves about 300 W, which seems pretty low for lighting, cooking, bathing, TV & computers etc. Where does the 700 W come from? What does PHPP use (I don't have it in front of me)?

    FWIW, Hockerton remains habitable. I don't know whether they had to do anything special in Dec 2010.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2012 edited
     
    A few queries to deal with:

    @Viking House:

    Construction method: SIP, with wall and roof U-Values of 0.1W/m2K
    Floor to same U-Value
    Windows 3G Passivhaus certified Uw=0.8W/m2K or better
    Airtightness q50: 1.0 m3/h/m2
    Itho MVHR @ 90% eff with SFP of 0.46
    Electric space heating - this is a Client / budget requirement (Housing Association)
    ASHP Cylinder, not drawing air from the heated space
    1.8 kWp PV was the ititial sizing (about a year ago). May be able to upsize this as the costs have come down.
    Solar thermal is used for hot water only, no space heating possibilities due to budget & Client requirements

    @eniacs:

    I like to keep the services strategy simple if I can and I know from experience that social housing tenants and renewable space heating and even MVHR are not a good mix, whereas solar thermal and PV seem to be OK. The Client is the housing association and will benefit from the FITs (NIROCs here in NI), the tenant will get reduced electrical bills.

    I have seen first hand the gradual cooling down of a building - a recently built church (to 2006 standards) where the building committee complained how long it took to heat up on a Sunday, so I arrived complete with IR and air temperature thermometers at 6.00am on a winter Sunday morning to find that the concrete floor slab, block walls and ceilings had all cooled down to 2 deg C from the previous week! The heating got the air temperature up no problem but the floor was still cold and the space was not as comfortable as it should have been. Client did not go with my original recommendation for underfloor heating and agreed with the Architect to change the walls from my recommended dry lined to plaster on block, without telling me. Grrr!

    @djh:

    The internal gains are not a prediction, they are average occupancy electrical readings from my own house. Fridges and freezers do not in my view make a measureable nett contribution to internal gains, as heat radiated = heat lost into the contents via the cabinet walls.

    We do have a 46" TV (used a lot - 7 hours a day), lighting, computers, Sky Plus HD (standby of 13W - could do better!), routers, chargers etc and don't turn stuff off at the mains - too much hassle.

    300 Watts average = 2,600 kWh per year. Too little? Not in my view.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2012
     
    Sorry, forgot to add for the 8 units:

    DER: -0.97
    SAP: 102
    Code Level: 5
    Predicted EPC: A
    Space heating requirement: 847.79 kWh pa
    Energy Performance: 9.9 kWh/m2 pa
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 31st 2012
     
    Posted By: GaryBThe internal gains are not a prediction, they are average occupancy electrical readings from my own house. Fridges and freezers do not in my view make a measureable nett contribution to internal gains, as heat radiated = heat lost into the contents via the cabinet walls.

    Right. The contribution a fridge makes is whatever power it consumes from the mains; i.e. the power for the compressor. As you say, the additional heat given off by the heat pump doesn't count because it is reabsorbed through the walls of the fridge.

    300 Watts average = 2,600 kWh per year. Too little? Not in my view.

    I had a look at PHPP and see it was my expectation that was too high. Your numbers seem much closer to it. Thanks for educating me.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: djhFWIW, Hockerton remains habitable. I don't know whether they had to do anything special in Dec 2010.

    I asked Liz Lainé (Hockerton resident) on Twitter. She replied:
    @ed_davies Some Hockerton homes used top up heating in winter 2010, generally due to illness or home working (still for long periods) 1/2

    (Not sure what that “1/2” is about - if she meant to post a second tweet or about half the houses needed top-up heating.)

    https://twitter.com/TreadingLightly/status/263048256077062147

    Edit to add: she says the “unheated” (i.e., not specifically heated) houses dropped to 16 °C. That's very consistent with what I was told by another resident: that the houses get down to 17 °C in a typical winter.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2012
     
    Thanks, Ed
    • CommentAuthorKrispy
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2012
     
    Posted By: eniacs I feel i have covered this by using the available space to capture as much solar as possible for the pool. I feel the extra needed to add a panel for water heating just doesnt justify the cost savings


    Sorry for late reply, only just joined and reading past posts, hopefully of some interest or to others in future

    I had a pool at a previous house 20 years ago. I was young and hardier; pool was outdoor heated by solar. We used it for the core of the summer only. The solar collector was equivalent to miles of black hosepipe back then. I wouldn't have an "outdoor" pool in the UK again.

    We now have a pool with a uPVC enclosure, and half a dozen decent solar collectors. Before the solar was installed we rarely needed to heat the pool in summer, inside the enclosure was 90F and upwards from May onwards.

    Our Solar Panels heat a thermal store, for DHW, and any surplus is dumped into the pool. The pool season for us is from Easter school holidays to Winter term half term. We need a lot of heat over the course of several days in March to get the pool up to temperature (pool is around 15C when I start heating it in Spring, and there is 100 cu.m. of water to raise by 15C - it takes a fair few kWh), and to keep it there until some time in April or May when the outdoor temperature rises (which it typically does all-of-a-sudden and then stays there, but the start date is not predictable) after which is mostly keeps itself warm.

    We then heat again to extend the season to get to the Winter half-term (and in some lousy years, like this one, we don't bother). Other than that there is the occasional "dull" spell - Solar might be enough to tide over, but like all things Solar the need is only when the weather has been dull / cold, so a bit mutually exclusive, and we tend to have weekends with friends coming where the instruction is "pool must be hot enough" and if the weather doesn't oblige the boiler has to instead.

    There isn't enough sun to generate the heat at the ends of the season, and a plastic tunnel [or similar is essential IMHO] over the pool will do the job during the core of the summer- and keep the leaves out, and keep any wind-chill off the swimmers which, in the case of kids, means they stay in all day long - bonus!

    I chose my solar panels [sized] for Spring and Autumn - so that we would have DHW then without needing to fire up the boiler, and in the knowledge that if they generated excess heat in summer it would be dumped into the pool. We largely achieve that in practice (although this year's kWh YTD are a good 25% below the average for the previous years we have had it - so there will be years where you need something other than Solar, and in my experience at Start / End of season too).

    My Solar Thermal panels would not generate enough heat for DHW in Winter - lucky to get a couple of kWh a day in Winter (and that is offset by the slug of cold water that comes back before the hot starts flowing)
    • CommentAuthoreniacs
    • CommentTimeFeb 20th 2013
     
    Hi Krispy, thanks for your comments. Your common sense has reminded me that we live in the uk... Ive deleted the pool from this build, i think i need a larger home with posibility to build the pool indoors!

    Im now awaiting planning permission on the modified build drawings, once approved I'll put them up along with the construction drawings.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 20th 2013
     
    Posted By: Krispya plastic tunnel [or similar is essential IMHO] over the pool will do the job during the core of the summer- and keep the leaves out, and keep any wind-chill off the swimmers

    I believe that a floating cover over the pool itself will conserve a lot of heat. Mostly by reducing evaporation although it may also insulate a bit.
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