Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2007
     
    My friend wants to build a new conservatory against his well insulated house 9m x 4.5m with 3 glass walls on dwarf brick walls and a sloping roof against his house.

    He hopes to use it as a full time dining room, it is shaded and faces west.

    I told him it will cost more to heat it for the next 25 years than it will cost to build it. Then it would likely have to be replaced anyway.

    Was I right? Building costs are arround £22,000
  1.  
    Will of course depend on heating pattern, the connection with the main hse (has he retained 'external-quality' doors and glazing?). Will it always be closed off (and the heating off) when not 'dining'?

    Tot up the u values compared with even a simple BR-compliant wall - frightening! If you assume a u val of min BR compliance (1.8 but for the purposes of this calc I have assumed 2 as I don't have a calculator with me), then heating to 20 deg on a frosty day (0 deg) will be losing 720w thro' the glazed sections, compared with 110w for a bR-compliant wall (with no windows, I accept! - a bit gloomy!)

    You could suggest to him (and to anyone who wants a heated conservatory) that he could go the whole hog and put a radiator in the garden....

    What's the roof?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2007
     
    Roof is glass too!
  2.  
    Thought it might be.... 40m2 x u val 1.8 approx = 72w, x ?20 deg temp diff last few days - say 1400w between friends, compared with BR-compliant 0.16 - 0.2ish: 160w with 20 deg temp diff. Think I've got that right. One of these days I will buy a calculator or a mobile phone whose keys work!!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2007
     
    So you recon 2 kW, I guessed it at 3 kW needed on a cold day buy a little heat will come through the walls from the house and more through the two french doors

    So how much would that cost to heat as a part of the house for 25 yrs?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2007
     
    Not sure what electricity is at the moment but can't be far off 10p/kwh once above the bottom tier.

    Assume it takes an hour to warm up the conservatory and an hour to eat. Three meals a day so 6 hours heating needed.

    300 days a year?

    That's 0.1 £/kwh x 3kw x 6hours x 300 days = £540 a year

    or £13,500 over 25 years... approx. Probably double or tripple if electricity goes up as it has.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    With any half reasonable guess at fuel price inflation then it looks like I might be right!
    • CommentAuthorhowdytom
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    I would advise him to eat there on warm days only. I think its still an asset so long as he isn't heating it ( maybe could build a passive store, see other threads).
    tom
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    What about the cost of cooling it in the summer as well.

    Its a stupid thing to do but most people are so short sighted they only consider the short term cost.
  3.  
    Is this an example of where someone is choosing to build a conservatory when an extension would make more sense? Could this, by any chance, have anything to do with the way the planning and building control rules treat conservatories and extensions? The unintended consequences of regulation...
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    Chaps I think you have got the areas wrong. I make the roof 9 X 4.5 ~ 40msq. + length of window run = 4.5 + 4.5+ 9= 18m X height of glass 1.5m (?) = 27 sq m which I reckon makes about 67 sq m all in. So add about 60% to the previous figures!!!!
    Frank
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2007
     
    Chris -- yes exactly! Him and all the rest of them out there too.

    Your point about rules a very clear example of the powers that be having ungreen policies. Probably exactly the opposite of what they intend is what is happening.
  4.  
    I guess things might change with the new planning bill. Aren't they altering the system for getting permission for minor works on houses?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2007
     
    I hope so but it seems unlikely to me.
    • CommentAuthorJoinerbird
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2007
     
    I have just spent cash on my new house bringing the living room OUT of the conservatory and thermally seperating the thing. My conservatory is a good one with everlite roof (which I would like more info on folks if you have any) but it is still freezing in there at the mo.
    When you are saying 1.8 uvalue, is this for a glazed wall? Iam confused as thinking its 0.22 for a cavity wall...... confusing me is easily done btw.
    As for radiator in the garden......ALL of my neigbours have those god awfull patio heaters.
    Trully, conservatorys are not liked by bco's, especially when people with sap calc softwear start wanting to thermally seperate the damn things.
    • CommentAuthorLizM
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2007
     
    Don't forget about heat lost through infiltration (draughts)! It's likely that the conservatory won't be built to be airtight. It could need another 500 to 1000 W to offset this.
    • CommentAuthorTobias
    • CommentTimeAug 30th 2008
     
    Could anyone out there give me some advice? I'm neither an engineer nor an architect but I've been reading this thread with interest because I am trying to figure the meaning of current BRs wrt windows and doors. I know you'll all throw up your hands in horror, but I am about to replace the french doors and windows at the rear of my house with double glazed units which, I'm afraid, will be UPVC. ... The house is neither listed nor of architectural interest but, like many thousands of others, is a small, 1980s 2-bed town house in a quiet city suburb. Because of the way the house is built the rear upstairs windows are very difficult to paint, and so have never been painted and are rotting. The french door from kitchen to garden is insecure and ill-fitting. I have fitted seconary glazing behind the wooden windows at the front of the house. My house is rare in the area in still having its original wood window frames.

    The french doors and windows I am thinking of using have an overall u value of 1.8 which I understand complies with current BRs. The window company is a small family business with a good reputation and a pride in good installation - no windy gaps round the edges. They tell me that 1.8u is D rated in the new EPCs. For an extra three hundred pounds they can made the windows and doors B rated with a u value of 1.5. this, evidently is the maximum they can achieve whilst retaining the high security classification from the Police crime prevention - an important point in a city suburb.

    I'd be very interested in hearing any opinions (I'm thick skinned) re the u ratings I've described. Also, what are forum people's opinions of the new EPCs which I understand will be necessary from 1st October.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 30th 2008
     
    How about you buy your new doors from a European supplier? cheaper and better and you could get triple glazed into the bargain!
    • CommentAuthorTobias
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2008
     
    Hi tony - yes, thanks for that, but it's the u-values and how important window/glazed door u-values are likely to be in the new EPCs that I'm needing feedback on. I'll probably be selling my house within five years so I'm looking not only to make my house more energy efficient and comfortable in the short term, but also more attractive to a buyer in an uncertain housing market, in the longer term. Also, I'm not in the DIY league of being able to fit doors myself. I need someone else to do it for me, sadly.
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2008
     
    Tony,

    I guess your friend could look at doing a solid roof or at least not totally glazed.
    The current rules are if the roof is more than 75% glazed then the conservatory is exempt from Building Regs and this is why the conservatory manufacturers encourage full glazing. It makes the construction simpler and of course cheaper however this leads to a thermally inefficient construction throughout all the seasons. Mainland European conservatories or orangeries typically do not follow this trend and so save massive heat losses in the winter and solar gain in the summer. When I say solid roof it is merely the substition of a glazed panel with an insulated panel that fits into exactly the same glazing beads. These panels are availble in many decorative forms
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2008
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Tobias</cite>Hi tony - yes, thanks for that, but it's the u-values and how important window/glazed door u-values are likely to be in the new EPCs that I'm needing feedback on. I'll probably be selling my house within five years so I'm looking not only to make my house more energy efficient and comfortable in the short term, but also more attractive to a buyer in an uncertain housing market, in the longer term. Also, I'm not in the DIY league of being able to fit doors myself. I need someone else to do it for me, sadly.</blockquote>

    Hi Tony,

    The windows U values don't feed directly into the EPC. There are 3 values that can go into the assessment - 1) Single Glazed, 2) Double Glazed Pre-2002 3) Double Glazed - 2002 Onwards. The difference in the double glazing is that post 2002 building regs mandated all replacement windows have to be Low E units. What this means for the assessment is you get credited with a U of 4.8, 3.1 or 2.0 respectively. This was deemed accurate enough to get within 5% of what you'd get on a full SAP assessment - which would require inputting the sizes and u value and orientation of every window. (I.e. increase the cost.)

    This might change in future if it becomes mandatory to stick the U value on the FENSA Certificate but there are no plans currently to do this. It is up to the energy assessor to ask for evidence of the date of the install (reciepts, guarantees, or sometimes markings on the DG units).

    What might be confusing your installer is that windows also use the coloured A-G ratings like the EPC does. But they're not linked.

    Simon
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2008
     
    I should have also added the three things that make the biggest difference to an EPC are

    A) Cavity Wall insulation (10ish points)
    B) Loft Insulation 5-10ish points.
    c) Fuel +/- 50 points!!! I.e swap from mains gas to peak electric or LPG as your primary heat source and watch your C Rated house EPC drop to F or G. It's because the Score 1-100 is based on £/m2 per year of heating costs. Peak rate electric (or LPG) is over 10p kwh whilst mains gas is 2 and a bit pence.

    Tank insulation thickness & thermostats, trvs and a decent boiler and time controls all make a difference too - so worth installing (for your own benefit as well as for resale). Don't bother with Solar thermal or PV - they add 1 or 2 points. And as daft as it sounds - go 100% on your CFLs and you'll get 2 points - at minimal cost (99p each in ASDA now). It can bring you up to the next band if you are borderline and you can still take them with you when you move ;-) The assessment is only valid on the day it's done.

    Simon
    • CommentAuthorTheDoctor
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2008
     
    if you can put wood as a primary fuel, and can get it free, based on £/m2, that would be a good result, yes?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2008
     
    Is this how it is in the world we now live in!
    • CommentAuthorRachel
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2008
     
    upvc... why?? Where will they go in a few years time when they've had their life? Into landfills that will be overfilled. You could go on ebay and there are some companies who could sell you the doors and windows needed double and triple glazed, and WOODEN! No excuse any more for plastic.
    • CommentAuthorludite
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2008
     
    Would stainless steel work instead of upvc or wood?
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press