Green Building Forum - All Discussions

garden office

jms452 — Sat, 01 Jun 2024 20:31:31 +0100

Hello all,

I'm working from home a lot and we need another office, so I'm planning to create a 2.2x2.5m office and inside part of a large detached wooden shed. The shed is decent and dry so I'm sort of creating a basic timber frame warm box.

My plan is to go low embodied carbon, cost effective and easy to assemble in couple of weekends.

Floor, 1000gauge dpm, 50mm phenolic [already salvaged from a skip], 18mm osb, second hand flooring tbd.

Walls/ceiling, old feather edge fencing planks to protect from damage, breather membrane, 100mm pavaflex, tapered edge plasterboard, filler + Paint.

Door (2 internal doors we already have one opening in, one opening out).

I was going to insulate it more, but given the tiny space I calculate even at dT=20 it will need <300W (i.e. a person, computer and monitor) so more insulation seemed pointless.

planning on fully breathable construction so no vapour control membranes

Am I missing any thing here?
I think we avoid regs as it's a shed?
(will run on an extension lead plugged into an outside weatherproof socket)

Is a single room heat recovery unit overkill?

thanks

edited for typo

Unable to Access using Chrome

Victorianeco — Wed, 29 May 2024 15:33:51 +0100

I cannot get onto the forum using Chrome only Firefox...

Anyone else having issues?

Hot water

djh — Fri, 22 Mar 2024 17:18:46 +0000

If anybody's interested, the government have published a new document "domestic hot-water use"

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/65f43b919d99de001d03df8a/domestic-hot-water-use-insights.pdf

They seem to have collected a bunch of data from people who have "intelligent" boilers and maybe other things. Some interesting and some scary data.

Attaching PV using clamps

ComeOnPilgrim — Fri, 05 Apr 2024 15:34:27 +0100

Follow up question to my earlier one. I have a standing stream roof that uses S-5-E clamps. These have a vertical thread for an M10 bolt. Was wondering how to attach a rail for the panels to this and whether there needs to be a gap between the panels?

It's summer! :)

djh — Thu, 09 May 2024 19:32:29 +0100

Our MVHR opened its summer bypass late this afternoon. So I declare summer is officially here!

Huw’s Little bungalow renovation

Huwblut — Tue, 07 May 2024 10:52:01 +0100

Hello everyone, I’m new here and more or less a total novice so please be gentle with me!

I’m planning some work on my little detached bungalow. The areas I’m unsure about are insulation, ventilation and installation of windows.

I’ve attached a drawing done a while back which was part of an assessment for a heat pump. In summary I’m keeping the gas boiler as it’s a new 35kw Worcester. Hopefully the drawing will be useful.
I’ll keep it simple and just concentrate on the ceilings / floors for now

I’ve got a builder booked for 20th May.

The wall between the two “kitchens” will be removed making a kitchen diner.

The house looks like it’ll need a rewire and most of the ceilings are cracked so they’ll be coming down. There’s a couple of small rooms upstairs which don’t meet building regulations but have proven useful for the occasional visitor etc. The roof above that has been insulated with the exception of the small stud walls.

As it’s essentially a bungalow with an insulated attic. I’d like to insulate the ceiling / floor as I’m sure that I’m losing heat to the above rooms (even though they’re ultimately insulated from above). I guess it’s a similar proposition to insulating a suspended floor but from underneath.

Could anyone suggest a type of insulation to go between the joists please? I’d imagine foil backed foam sheets of some kind would be suitable (if not particularly green) but cost is definitely an issue so I’m open to suggestion.

Should there be a membrane of some kind fixed to the joists before the insulation is added?

Should I be paying close attention to any gaps or spaces not filled by the insulation around the edges or around the joists by using tape or similar?

Should I use a membrane over the isolation and under the plasterboard as vapour barrier?

I hope this makes sense!

I’m super grateful for any help.

Cheer

Huw

How long can cheap night rate electricity last?

Peter_in_Hungary — Sat, 11 May 2024 18:58:40 +0100

There happened to be an Ikarus bus exhibition in my local town with buses from all ages including the latest electric bus, a pre production model. It has a 280 kWh battery with a range quoted as 540 km. Fastest charging time quoted as 15% to 100% as 1 hour. - and they routinely charge to 100% as the normal procedure.

Talking to the Rep. the plan is to have electric buses replace the ICE buses over time with several town here already having electric buses. The charging routine would be to charge from 11 pm to 4 am. for 2 reasons 1) buses don't run at night and 2) the power co. like the night time load.

By the time there are fleets of electric buses, lorries, taxies and delivery vans from all the on-line sales not to mention private EVs where will the incentive be for cheap rate 'off peak' electricity.

BTW has anyone heard (other than pure speculation) what plans HM Treasury has to replace the lost revenue from road fuel tax.

Oh - and the drivers absolutely love the electric buses.

If I ordered one of the new buses today delivery is in 3 months. No one was talking about the Grid capacity except one driver who reckoned they would need a direct line to the nuclear power station.

So how long will the cheap night rate electricity last?

Crumbly lime plaster on wood fibre boards

bgasparotto — Tue, 02 Apr 2024 12:01:22 +0100

Hello folks!

I have been using Lime Green ready mixed products: Duro, Solo and Board Adhesive (lime based), which you only mix in the water. 2 out of the 3 walls went really well if I say so, but the third one is crumbly to a point that I can use a pencil to scratch the plaster off without breaking the tip!

The walls that worked:
internal bare brick < 10mm of Duro < another 10mm of Duro < 5mm of Solo
party wall existing lime render < 3 to 5mm of Solo

The issue:
external bare brick < 10mm of Duro < 5mm board adhesive < 60mm hard wood fibre < 8mm of Solo (two passes in the same day with mesh in the middle

The base coat of Duro was very strong as the others, and I was also happy with how the wood fibre bonded with the adhesive and mechanical fixings. However, a month after applying the top coat of Solo, it still feels crumbly (please see pics)

This is how I applied the plaster:

1. Added 5mm of Solo across the whole wall, pushing the sections of mesh as I plastered
2. Added 3mm of Solo on top of the mesh (around 4h after the coat above)
3. Sponge floated and used a smooth steel trowel for a smooth finish (about 2h after the second coat, it came out smoother than the other walls).

At the end of the same day I noticed some small bubbles coming out of the plaster, then also noticed it being a bit wet on the surface (like condensation), even though I left the window a touch open.

Would anybody be able to point what I did wrong? I followed the product guidelines to the best of my knowledge, especially when they say the first and second coats around the mesh should be applied within 24h, so I am a bit puzzled and scared to carry on plastering the other external walls the same way.

Any ideas are welcome and hope you are all having a wonderful week!

Air to Air Heating

kristeva — Tue, 30 Apr 2024 09:34:33 +0100

Hi all

I know this topic may well have been covered quite a bit on here before but I'm exploring the possibility of installing (DIY) an external air to air heating system for the ground floor of my small, old property (1800).

I just wanted to canvass opinions on the viability of such a project or perhaps get in touch (privately) with anyone with similar installs.

The space to be heated is open plan, approx. 419 sq feet / 39 sq metres. I could run ducting through the void in the floor. All external walls will be insulated with 60-80mm wood fibre board, windows are double gazed but old. I hope to have a wood burner in one of the chimneys too.

What kind of performance can I expect (South East of England) and what are the downsides? And is this something I could DIY myself (apart from the commissioning)?

One of the reasons this topic has become current for me is there is someone local selling 2 brand new unwanted cast iron radiators (2K each) which would be perfect for my house if I was going to use my boiler. They are selling at a fraction of the retail price, but i don't want to commit if I end up not using them as you can imagine shifting them on at 182KG will be a bit of a nightmare.

Many thanks.

Blum hinges

Rex — Sat, 20 Apr 2024 09:34:01 +0100

What ho one and all,

Following a leak (Drip Drip thread) from a SureStop mains stop-cock, I have found that a couple of the Ikea cupboard door hinges have rusted somewhat.

It is not a problem replacing with the same Ikea named hinge, although the design is different and I assume they would fit.

But my question is, would any other make of hinge fit Ikea doors? Basically, do all Blum hinges fit to the same temple?

Thanks and toodle pip

Building Insurance for SIP based construction

borpin — Tue, 30 Apr 2024 13:10:04 +0100

Has anyone else had issues with getting an insurance quote for a building incorporating SIPs?

I have an Oak Frame section of the house with Kingspan SIPs and on searching for a new Building's Insurance quote have come up against an unwillingness to quote as it is regarded as "an increased fire risk". Queried and went to a ''higher underwriter' but still the same answer.

Thoughts?

Any suggestions for a Broker to try (this was NFU).

Preloved StorEdge offered

yclairejenkins — Tue, 23 Apr 2024 22:09:01 +0100

This StorEdge interface was fitted in 2017 along with a SolarEdge inverter and original model Powerwall. We have now had it removed as the Powerwall has been replaced with a Powerwall 2 which doesn't need the interface.

I can send pics and try and find out the full model details if anyone is interested.

Also, if anyone can suggest where else might be a good place to find a buyer, that would be really helpful.

Approved details

fostertom — Mon, 22 Apr 2024 16:21:24 +0100

This is a dumb question, after all these years. We here think a lot about wall 'sandwich' build-up details, model them in WUFI etc, for interstitial condensation risk, air tightness etc. And lately, for example, I've found insulation suppliers such as Warmcel refusing to authorise their distributors to supply their product unless it's being done to a certified detail/design. Strangely, I can find nothing in Building Regs that makes similar requirement - which Part is about this, if not C (ground/rain) moisture, F vent/condensation, L thermal? No search term I can think of, produces refs to such details, tho I know manufacturers publish sample construction details, get BBA Certificates etc, on use of their product. So, question is, what different kinds of sources are there, for such detail/designs that can be used as evidence of approvability, if not certifiability?

Drip, drip, drip

Rex — Tue, 16 Apr 2024 17:50:28 +0100

What ho one and all,

When we built, I installed a SureStop to the incoming mains on the basis that if needed, my wife would be able to hit the button rather than try to figure out where the stopcock is located. And I do have a stopcock!

Yesterday, when putting some stuff away, I noticed the cupboard base was wet. further investigation revealed that the SureStop has a fracture in its body so a replacement is necessary.

Of course, nothing is simple as the replacement has a shorter dimension than the current model, which means I have to add about 20mm of copper. What a bugger!!!!

I have figured out how to remove the SureStop by undoing an elbow (out of shot) at one end which will hopefully, allow sufficient movement.

Lead Flashing Sealant - how important is the spec's width to depth ratio?

greenfinger — Thu, 18 Apr 2024 13:53:17 +0100

Hi

I'm finishing a lead flashing job and now need to seal the flashing that's turned into the chase. The lead has been fixed using hall clips. It's an old stone wall, with undressed stone. So nothing is straight or flat!

Although some seem to favour mortar, I've decided to use lead sealant. Some of the sealants specify that a width to depth ratio of 2:1 must be used (I guess at the end of the say this is a silicone, and the same ratio is also specified for other silicones such as sanitary types, etc).

Where this ratio cannot be achieved what might the implications be?

Having read/watch videos about the topic, it has got me to thinking. Lead flashing is commonly used against brick walls. The typical mortar joint is 10mm wide. The recommended chase depth of the lead is 25mm. So in this scenario, there would be a width to depth ratio of 1:2.5 and therefore well off the recommended 2:1 ratio. In fact, here's a couple of manufacturer's videos which seem to show the full depth of the chase being filled with sealant. The brickwork looks standard, so I presume the chase is no more than 10mm wide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIVhKIbyxk4
especially at 1:29.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBtvHif6bTE
at 6:30

Similarly, I can't imagine every plumber using silicone adheres to the ratio.

So I wondered whether you guys think about this ratio business?

Cheers

A couple of Qs on continuous extract fans (dMEV)

luz13827 — Sat, 11 Sep 2021 16:30:17 +0100

Hello, unfortunately MVHR isn't suitable for our renovation for several reasons, so we're looking at monitoring + manual ventilation and fans in the kitchen/bathroom. I had a couple of Qs about the continuous extract fans

- I know that usually the problem is too much humidity, but could continuous extract fans, in theory, make the air TOO dry? How likely is this a problem in reality? We are planning to use clay board instead of plasterboard, which should help to buffer humidity already.
- What sort of heat loss is there with continuous extract fans?

Assuming we do still go with continuous extract, any recommendations for best model?

How to best insulate a piled foundations for a Passiv standard house

dovemw — Wed, 15 Mar 2023 12:52:09 +0000

I am new to the forum and have a new self build PH standard timber frame project in Surrey. We have planning permission and are about to get the PHPP modelling started. Our site is on sandy London clay and we are also about to get a full ground investigation undertaken to establish is we can do a strip or raft foundation or have to use a piled solution. The Geotechnical experts, a local structural engineer and two ground works contractors all think we will end up with a piled foundation and looking locally new build projects are using piles!

Does anyone have any advice on best way to insulate a piled slab supported by piles for a PH project? The default by the groundworks contractors looks like there will be anti heave measures then insulation under the slab and the slab itself. Is there a solution to avoid thermal bridging where the pile connects to the slab? I assume we could insulate above the slab and then use high compressive strength insulation under the timber frame sole plate to reduce the impact of the cold bridges, is this a good solution?

(I have been looking to see if there are any discussions on piled foundations on this forum and can't find any specific to this hence creating a new discussion.)

Wood Gasification (Log) Boiler Experience?

edwinvanek — Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:33:56 +0100

Over the last 6 months we have been considering the replacement our old oil fired central heating boiler with a log boiler as both our tank and boiler need to be replaced over the next few years. We have compared alsmost every manyfacturer available (Dragon, Atmos, Vigas, Froeling, Hoval, Baxi, Mescoli, Viesman, ETA, Herz, Biotherm, Treco, etc) and haven''t been able to make a decicion yet. Recently we started thinking about keeping the oil fired central heating and adding two wood stoves, one connected to the warm water tank.
My preferde boiler would be the Austrian ETA boiler which I have seen in operationa t various locations in Germany, but the boiler itself without heat store and other component, flue and installation is close to 6K, which is too much. The middle way would be a Baxi Solo Inova. Does anybody have any experience with Vigas and Atmos boilers, which are the most economically priced boilers. The pros are: renewable ennergy, affordable fuel the cons are: costly, not as instantly controlable as oil and gas, bulky and expensive to install.

Before finally making my mind up I was wondering weather anybody who has already installe a log gasification boiler would be willing to share their experiences and or frustrations?

Edwin

Default mode

tony — Sun, 14 Apr 2024 09:03:28 +0100

A friend of mine has solved a problem that we might come across with other people. They have the Eco mode on their boiler, in other words they did not have preheating of the hot water. They were most surprised to hear my boiler come on, and upon investigation found that the Eco mode was off! They realised that this was because the electrician turned the power off when attending to a cooker switch. So what they learned was that whenever someone or something cut the power to the boiler, they will need to switch Eco mode on again when power is restored.

Why to boilers or at least that make default to not eco mode?

Airtightness retrofit

oliviaaa99 — Tue, 09 Apr 2024 10:52:47 +0100

Hi all! We are working on retrofitting a 1960s bungalow and are hoping to install a MVHR system. We’re getting a bit lost in how best to air tight the property with minimal disruption though.
Currently we’re looking at having a cold loft and the air-tight layer inside, the house has brick cavity walls and a substantial suspended timber floor cavity.

The walls and ceilings are currently being reskimmed, so I believe it’s too late to do much taping? We’re stuck on the floors as we ideally would like to insulate from underneath to avoid the mess of removing the floorboards, so are considering this structure (from top to bottom)
Engineered wood floor/carpet
Flooring underlay (?)
Plywood (sealed with tape)
VCL/vapour barrier/airtight layer
Floorboards
Insulation
Breathable windproof membrane

Essentially for now we would lay down a VCL then ply board over the top and airtight tape the gaps in the boards. Then at a later date once we've moved in, we would go underneath to insulate the floors.

We definitely aren’t aiming for 100% airtightness as I believe it’d be impossible in our circumstances, but hopefully to make enough of an improvement to improve the thermal efficiency of the house. I couldn’t find any information on the suspended timber airtightness that didn’t involve lifting the floorboards, so I was hoping to get some advice on whether our plan is doable or not (or if it’s just a recipe for trapped moisture!)

Thank you so much!

French drain

Artiglio — Fri, 05 Apr 2019 15:39:00 +0100

Iâ€™ve a wall in an 1800 house, semi basement 9â€ brick, at some point in the past the original wood floor was removed and filled with concrete and the walls â€œtankedâ€ externally the pointing has been redone in sand and cement. The wall is pretty much saturated and damp penetrates around the windows and points where the tanking has failed / was done poorly.
Pulling up the floor and redoing it, removing the tanking are neither economical or practical.
Its been suggested a french drain along the wall will at least prevent the wall getting any wetter and repointing with lime will help the wall dry out a little over time.

Plan is for a 600mm wide trench along the wall to 100mm below the concrete floor level, a studded dpm against the wall , a geotextile in the trench then backfilled , suggestion is to use cockle shells ( available locally) as this will give plenty of air space and quick drainage.

The wall will then be repointed in lime.

The homeowner understands that this will not make any immediate improvement , but that it should prevent further water being sucked into the wall and over time allow the wall to dry out a bit.

Is this a sensible way forward? Being a diy project its not overly expensive . Any suggestions to improve or new ideas?

TIA

Wholesale PV panel and kit source?

ComeOnPilgrim — Sat, 23 Mar 2024 22:44:39 +0000

I'm considering self installing a PV system while prices are low. Would anybody be able to recommend a potential wholesaler to source the parts from?

Want to see inside an 8 year old MVHR?

cjard — Fri, 09 Feb 2024 12:25:13 +0000

This yummy thing is the world side..

Kitchen cabinet door refresh

Rex — Wed, 03 Apr 2024 13:12:58 +0100

What ho one and all,

The Ikea kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts could do with a bit of a refresh. They are MDF factory painted white, some slight damage to a few bottom edges and generally slightly faded.

The options are new panels but to replace everything will be surprisingly expensive. Paint; could do that but will never look as good as the factory finish (and I don't have a compressor!)

Wondering about a self adhesive vinyl. Fablon does look a bit 'cheap' and will probably not fold around the slightly radiused edges.

So wondering if anyone has use the car wrapping film (https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/vehicle-wrapping)

This is an interesting video with no water used. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q3CS4rJRIk

Which does bring up a couple of questions. Given that it is a heat shrink, is it likely to 'fold/stretch' around corners to give an seam free finish? Secondly, I have applied similar film to some of our windows to reduce UV. One needs to spritz the glass first to avoid bubbling. Presumably, this would also be necessary to apply car wrap to either a car or in this case, MDF doors?

Grateful for any advice if you have 'refreshed' your doors.

Thanks and toodle pip

Lime plaster on plasterboard

bot de paille — Tue, 15 Dec 2015 17:47:55 +0000

So Im just offering this up as its the sort of thing people look for and I haven't seen it posted before...

If you want to put a skim lime plaster on to plasterboard this is a tried and tested solution. Also works on any wall surface that you want to skim as part of a renovation. I came up with it because Multifinish plaster doesnt exist in France and the local plaster is shite for skim finishing because it sets very quickly.

Prep the plasterboard or existing wall with 9 parts water and 1 part PVA glue which has sand mixed in. This will seal the wall and provide a mechanical fix. I wait until the PVA has set but still a bit tacky...

then plaster on the skim coat of lime/sand plaster. Mix 1 part NHL3 lime with 1 part sand and mix together using the same PVA/water mix used for the primer.
Use a fine, nice colored sand as it is this which will determine the final color of the plaster. Quartz sand can also be added.

And thats it. Finish the plaster as you want, either flat finish with a trowel or bring out the sand using a sponge when the plaster starts to set after a few hours.

If you live in one of those countries that uses gypsum plaster that sets within 20 mins, the missing ingredient you need to add to increase working time is trisodium citrate, a form of citric acid. You can also squeeze some lemon juice into the water as you mix the plaster. If you add too much the plaster wont set.

Exposed Oxfordshire Semi - Window Size Reduction

darthgarth — Fri, 08 Mar 2024 12:44:43 +0000

Hi All,

I live in a late '50s semi that has some pretty big (and pretty bad) alu framed DG windows. Sizes range between 25-40% of the external wall area of any of the rooms.

Due to the "outboard" positioning of the windows we get a lot of thermal bridging in the reveals - the brick outer leaf is within the heated envelope of the house and is a condensation horror show, particularly on the north side of the house. This is being mitigated in the short term with foil tape to stop the emulsion going mouldy in the perpetual winter damp which, as you imagine, is not terribly attractive.

I have been considering some approaches to resolve the thermal bridging when we come to change the windows but they would lead to a reduction in the dims of the window openings and a cascade of issues relating to lead times for new windows and the requirement to temporarily block the openings with somekind of ply/PIR/plasterboard sandwich for some time. Which would probably not be acceptable within the household - even I think it's probably too much to live in the dark for X number of weeks/months!

Is such an approach ever practical or would it just be better to take the money allocated for any remedial work and spend on better windows in the original openings with some other lightweight strategy to mitigate the thermal bridging (aerogel)?

Ensure you tighten the nut!

Rex — Sun, 31 Mar 2024 18:28:27 +0100

Bloody hell!!!

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-68702031

plugs to use the solar energy generated

caspen — Sun, 24 Mar 2024 15:12:25 +0000

We have a Watson and optiplugs linked to our electricity board.

When we're generating, the Watson tells the plugs they can turn on the gadget attached to them. The plugs have been progammed so they know how much electricity the gadget needs. This means we do not need to be around to turn on small electric heaters or the dehydrator when we are generating electricity.

Sadly, the company no longer exists. No one has optiplugs to sell. And ours have been dying, one by one. We are on our last working optiplug. How you do use the electricity you are generating ... when you're not around to use it? Do you know of an alternative to the optiplug ... so that a gadget works without you being present to turn it on and off?

Many thanks

Hourly gas data proves peak heat demand is far lower than previously thought

Doubting_Thomas — Mon, 25 Mar 2024 16:33:43 +0000

Spotted this today and thought it might be relevant to people on here. Still some questions over the methodology, but essentially the authors of a 2023 study have used overall UK gas network data to derive household usage, rather than extrapolation from a small sample set.

The results are over 50% lower than previous estimates, and should mean that concerns over increased peak load due to electrical heating may be unfounded. In other words it should be easier to transition away from gas for domestic space heating.

https://www.cell.com/iscience/fulltext/S2589-0042%2823%2902316-7

Habitat bank

fostertom — Sat, 23 Mar 2024 11:49:14 +0000

https://news.exeter.gov.uk/exeter-is-home-to-the-first-registered-habitat-bank-in-the-country/
Sounds scammy! An easy-out for developers. Having destroyed biodiversity on their own site, as per normal, a payment to the council gets some wildflowers and hedges on a tiny (3.2ha) site, which is itself protected against development or agri-monoculture for a whole 30yrs!

"our mission to have a registered habitat bank in every local planning authority"
How can each authority's small habitat bank's biodiversity gain possibly match the cumulative loss, whether by %age or by acreage, on any number of developers' sites?

fixing ridge tiles expanding foam

chrisinbrighton — Tue, 19 Mar 2024 07:42:12 +0000

Is it a bodge to use this for fixing

Glasapore insulation and bags of lime mortar - Free Rochdale area

Pile-o-Stone — Fri, 12 Jan 2024 15:32:36 +0000

Hi,

Does anyone want a big dumpy bag and a bit of glasapore insulation (the stuff that is recycled glass with air blown through it that looks like pumice stone) and some 5kg buckets of lime plaster, and maybe an electric cement mixer?

We are moving house and downsizing and I won't be doing major works, like I have here, ever again, so I just need someone to pick them up. I live near Rochdale. I can help move the stuff but the bag of insulation is heavy, so might need a few people to muscle it into a van.

Free to good home.

Cheers,
POS

Meter running backwards!

tony — Wed, 13 Mar 2024 18:54:05 +0000

I have seen old style electric meters running backwards, even had one on my daughter house, the solar generation if not all used in the home spun the meter backwards but only on the units, not tens or hundreds. We did tell them but they weren’t interested. Eventually the meter was replaced on a rolling programme.

Currently I have a small commercial system that is turning the meter backwards, their energy company is threatening them with court action and charging an estimated bill for their likely underpayment.

I don’t think they can do that, it is the electric companies meter, they knew about the solar and FiTs

Any views or advice? Money was taken on a DD but clawed back by the organisation as it was way more than the meter (incorrectly) showed.

It is going to be fun to sort out and must have happened before.

Health and Safety

Rex — Sun, 10 Mar 2024 14:10:19 +0000

Just seen this on the BBC:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-68518332

Not too sure about the caption reading 'collapse.' Using a ladder at the top of a tower looks like incompetence to me, Recipe for gravity to show who is the boss.

Tile cleaning

Rex — Sun, 10 Mar 2024 11:05:26 +0000

What ho one and all,

In the greater scheme of things, many of my recent inquiries seem rather 'trivial.' So here is the next 'trivial' inquiry!!!

White gloss tiles around the bath with white grout. We use softened water for the bath and shower. However, even with regular cleaning and frequently using a window cleaning squeegee after showering, the lower tiles are looking 'tired.'

The grout is tending towards 'grubby' and the lower tiles have lost their gloss/sheen, with a sorta , minor grayish tinge. I have tried cleaning with baking soda and vinegar, thinners, Isopropyl alcohol, Brasso and specific tile / limescale cleaner but to no avail.

They no longer have that new clean look but appear tired.

Dr Google only tells me what I have already tried; is there anything else I could be doing?

Thanks and toodle pip

uPVC 3G from Whiteline to PH standard (Uw = 0.8W/Km^2)

DamonHD — Mon, 09 Jul 2012 15:35:31 +0100

Hi,

We decided that this year's fun is going to be replacing all our old/blown double-glazed units with triple-glazed, and happily our friendly local glazier will now do 3G from their supplier Whiteline.co.uk with the additional thermal break and glazing flipper to get to Uw = 0.8E/Km^2 (PH compliant).

Any comments on this supplier or design?

Also, I'd quite like to (re)fit the Enviroform aerogel reveal insulation to minimise thermal bridging (we already have some round 2 upstairs windows that would be replaced and are in the aerogel dry-lined wall).

Am I wasting my time?

If not, should I have the glaziers do it, or have my builder come back and do it?

I have already stressed the need to be very careful about air leakage and damaging the aerogel.

Two or three of the replacement windows would go in the wall that we have not yet dry-lined, so I assume that we wait until we get them drylined to get the insulated reveals if we do them?

Rgds

Damon

cordless lawnmowers

owlman — Fri, 08 Mar 2024 12:49:59 +0000

It's that time of year again and my old petrol mower needs replacing. I'd looked at EGO mowers and would appreciate any help; does anyone have any experience of them.

Horizontal Grenfell?

fostertom — Wed, 06 Mar 2024 08:32:36 +0000

Uh oh - but we'd never use plastic cladding would we? Cos timber cladding would be safe?
https://www.theguardian.com/society/2024/mar/05/fears-of-new-uk-cladding-crisis-after-blaze-destroys-timber-frame-homes

Is there such a thing as an insulated background vent?

lineweight — Wed, 06 Mar 2024 12:23:35 +0000

By "background vent" I mean a through-wall vent, that does the same thing as a trickle vent within a window - that is, provides some level of direct ventilation to a room that can (in theory) be adjusted by the occupant.

By "insulated" I mean one that when it's closed, provides some level of insulation, rather than some flappy bits of plastic that have no insulation value of any consequence (and no airtightness either).

As per trickle vents, we have to install these to keep BC happy (in rooms where it's not possible to add trickle vents to existing windows).

This is a renovation/retrofit, not newbuild.

Yes - I know the ideal approach would be to have some form of ventilation with heat recovery but the occupant would have to be persuaded that the cost is justified, and at the moment they are quite happy ventilating their house in the traditional manner, by opening a window a bit when they feel like it.

Do I need this?

Rex — Mon, 04 Mar 2024 19:27:51 +0000

What ho one and all,

Received the latest Lidl e-mail DIY section update. Apparently, I need a their Parkside App to get the most from their Smart Batteries and which I can charge via Wi-Fi.

Don't know how I have managed to survive by just charging my batteries until the light went green then using them.

Had no idea my life needed to be so connected.

Toodle pip

PHPP queries

wookey — Sat, 13 Apr 2019 00:14:53 +0100

PHPP has a slot for an 'exterior door' (on the areas sheet). But a lot of buildings have more than one exterior door. It's not clear to me how to deal with the other one. What does one normally do about this; add a row there for a 2nd exterior door, and hope that ading a row doesn't bugger anything up (dangerous game in a spreadsheet this complicated).

I can put it in the windows sheet (and this door is a UPVC, mostly-glazed door so modelling it as a window is generally just fine), except that it goes into an unheated, but internal, area so it's not in an exterior wall, which all the other windows are. Or at least it is an exterior wall for the purpose of PHPP, but the outside temp is 'X', not 'A'. So I've currently put the door into it's own area with tempzone 'X' (which there is a space for already in 'areas').

This worked fine on PHPP 2007 (v1.0), but things have got more complicated by PHPP2015(v9.3) and entering an area element which is only in a group, but does not also refer to a selected item from the U-values sheet seems to be broken.

This seems like a common-enough circumstance - how does one normally deal with a 2nd external door? In this case into a lobby-type area.

I have more PHPP questions after messing with it for way too many hours, but this will do for now :-)

EWI dilemma

Rex — Thu, 22 Feb 2024 20:15:38 +0000

What ho one and all,

Further to my thread of a few days ago:

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18088&page=1#Item_0

I live at the end of a private road and as a result, when going anywhere, pass every house. Consequently, what with the road association, various road parties and Neighbourhood Watch, I have a good nodding.chatting acquaintance with virtually everyone in the road.

One of the houses is currently undergoing EWI installation, and of course, I see the progress with my coming and going. The one thing I have not seen is any evidence of a cavity wall insulation contractor. Of course, the house may have had CWI many years ago before the current owners. Or it may have been installed so quickly that I did not see it. Alternatively, they may have been advised that they don't need it.

So my dilemma is, should I swing by for a neighbourly chat about EWI, with the possible suggestion that CWI is recommended, or just leave them to get on with it?

Your thoughts will be taken on-board.

Thanks and toodle pip

Drainage pipe outlet

Rex — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 13:48:17 +0000

What ho one and all,

The land for my house has a fall of around3-4 meters, front to back over about 50 m. Rainwater from the roundabout in front tends to drain onto my land a prior to building, sort of 'flooded' the front garden.

During the build, I installed a sump on the verge and took a underground drainage to the woodland at the rear of the garden. Unfortunately, I did not take photographs. Although buried on my land, the actual outlet was on the surface in the woods so that water could drain out. But 1,2, 3, or 4 meters from my boundary? Beats me?

Nowadays, the water does drain away, and then the flooding starts again. I think the outlet in the woodland has become blocked with leaves, twigs and perhaps 'someone' has made a home there. I would like to find the outlet but uncertain where it is, and it is certainly now covered with brambles, fallen branches, etc.

My question is, what would be the best way to find the outlet without actually clearing everything and digging where I 'think' it may be?

Thanks and toodle pip

2G v 3G and Glazing Suppliers

Victorianeco — Sun, 04 Feb 2024 12:47:08 +0000

I'm sure I recall someone suggesting it is better to have 2G on South facing windows and 3G on all other elevations.

Is there any fact in this or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Just looking at options for my upcoming renovation.

Am I also correct in thinking if the house will be EWI'd then internal opening windows would be the better option?

Thanks

Building fire in Valencia, Spain

marktime — Sat, 24 Feb 2024 12:47:08 +0000

Spain has experienced its Grenfell moment with a fire that consumed a 10-storey block tied to a 14-storey block by a fancy lift. Set ablaze a total of 138 apartments within approximately 1 hour, yes you read that right 1 hour. Fire started on the fourth floor of the 10-storey block at 17.35 and by 18.45 both buildings were completely engulfed in flames.

Construction was concrete block inner facade exterior covered with rockwool, a cavity then a sandwich of two plates of aluminium with 50 mm of synthetic material in between. No details of this material yet.

9 confirmed dead, one other unaccounted for.

ibuttons or something else?

RobinB — Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:46:59 +0100

I need to learn about ibuttons or similar.

We're retrofitting a stone end of terrace. It has 100-150mm cavities and there are currently equal views that CWI would be either "a terrible thing, making everything damp" or "by far the best solution" to wall insulation. Inside the house is a wealth of architectural features dado, covings, skirtings that would not make IWI an easy job - plus concerns about cold bridging where the internal walls meet the inner leaf of external walls. EWI not an option due to conservation area.

One thought that appeals to me is to install CWI that could be removed relatively easily if all goes pear shaped. I'd like to be able to monitor temp and humidity within the cavity and I'm thinking ibuttons would be the thing? I'm a bit vague as to what they can do, how long they'll last or how they report. Any info or links appreaciated.

Carbon capture and storage again

djh — Tue, 20 Feb 2024 17:52:03 +0000

Another idea on how to capture CO2 from the atmosphere and store it. Possibly a little more sensible than many attempts.

https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1748-9326/ad0924/pdf

Cavity wall insulation - what options are available?

just_breathe — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 01:00:06 +0000

Hi

Just having a head scratch about how I’d tackle the cavity wall considerations.

So we obtained planning to add 100mm EWI to whole of the uninsulated walls of our property.

We are terraced so no brainer for main part and front of property which is solid stone, but the rear we’ve some complications as we’ve 2 old brick extensions 2 stories, then a modern single story flat roof off those two. So it’s what has become internal or is still an external wall for those.

1. First old extension is solid brick - no cavity so that will need to be EWI only.
2. Second old extension - we have cavities for these and most is now internal except for above the new flat roof - only about 4sqm as there’s a small bedroom window, and just a bit above a stairwell. Then we’ve a downstairs loo but there’s no external access to 2.5m wall as 100mm gap (can that be filled?) between us and neighbour all
Other loo wall is internal now but that’s less than 1m and has an old window . Upstairs above the loo is the small bedroom and its wall would be accessible above neighbours extension from outside, but bedroom has sloping ceiling and so it’s only about 1.8m height of wall to access by 2.5m

In the loft there is some access to the top of the cavities.

So in the areas with difficult access it is possible to just knock a few bricks out here and there for internal access and sort it all that way given the small areas if need to fill and if so what is best material? I’m pretty sure I’m best to fill cavities that are now internal walls?

Or is it still best to get a professional company in?

I’m trying to make it all work in order in my head and if I know I can sort either myself or otherwise with remediation from inside, then I can proceed with EWI across whole of rear second storey.

Window locks

tony — Tue, 13 Feb 2024 09:55:51 +0000

What is the point of having a locking window handle on say a uPVC or other multipoint window mechanism?

If the burglar is already in the house I can’t see any point and if outside what difference is there between a locking handle and one that doesn’t lock?

Thermal store, adding ufh

rwski — Wed, 14 Feb 2024 14:10:44 +0000

We have 2000l Akvaterm thermal store fed by wood gasification boiler and solar thermal.
Current output is domestic hot water and 3 radiators.
We are going to add ufh.
Does anyone have a plumbing and wiring setup for this that they could share. The important difference to lots of schemes that I see is that adding heat is manual so we don’t want to turn on the ufh when the tank is not hot enough. Everything I look at just sends a call for heat and carries on turning the ufh on…

Ideally we will use heatmiser neo, but at the moment I’m interested in detailed information about what others have done.

Current radiators are just turned on by a thermostat on the tank, if the tank is above the set temperature the pump is turned on.

Thank you!