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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    If everyone posts there oil consumption figures here in roughly the following format I will try to work out some averages so we can compare consumption. I'm mainly interested in bog standard oil fired systems (eg Not solar assisted etc).

    I'll kick off with my data:

    House built: 2006/7
    Floor Area: 320 square meters approx 3200 sq feet (total for all floors)
    Oil used in a year: 3700 L (predicted)
    Boiler: Grant Vortex 36/46
    Boiler default rating: 41KW
    Rads/UFH/hot air: UFH
    DHW as well: Yes
    Number of people: 4
    Level of insulation: Standard (eg Buildings Regs of the time)
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    simple bit..

    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Jeff B</cite>Richardab1967 - like you I too am always interested in comparing other folks heating requirements to ours! I have some figures as below. But first, can anyone tell me please, am I correct in taking it that burning one litre of heating oil produces about 10.5 KW of heat (assuming 100% efficiency)? If so, if I am using 3000 litres of oil p.a., our boiler must be producing about 24,000 KW p.a. (assuming 75% efficiency, as we currently have a 10 year non-condensing boiler). If so, I am ashamedly well above the UK average quoted above (17,700)!
    </blockquote>

    You've been trying to overcomplicate things on working out you figures...

    You are actually using 3000 litres of oil x 10.7kwh (per litre of heating oil). Or 32,100 kWh. The fact that your boiler is 75% efficinet doesn't factor into it. You burned all the oil and the energy potential of the oil was always there. Regardless of whether the heating was on 2, 4, 6 or 8 hours and how efficient the boiler is - that oil is now smoke and therefore your energy consupmption.

    And obviously you can reduce it by either getting a more efficient boiler to get the same amount of usable heat out of less oil, or insulate to reduce the heat demand required from the boiler.

    When average figures are quoted (mostly based on gas) they are based on annual fuel consumed which is converted to kWh. They dont ask how long the boiler is on for, or how effeicient your boiler is.

    I bet now you feel even more guilty as you're almost double and would qualify for my high energy consumer tax ;-)

    Simon.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    CWatters - here are the data for our house following your template, with the addition of type of property and location as these are pertinent I think:

    House built: 1997
    Floor Area: Ground floor: 116 square meters First floor: 63 square metres
    Oil used in a year: 3000 L (predicted)
    Boiler: Worcester Bosch heatslave 20/25 KW
    Boiler default rating: 25KW
    Rads/UFH/hot air: Rads
    DHW as well: Yes
    Number of people: 2
    Level of insulation: Standard (eg Buildings Regs of the time)
    Type of property: Detached 4 bedroom dormer bungalow
    Location: Exposed (elevation 115 metres), windy, west Wales, about 3 miles from the coast

    Jeff B
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    Jeff, search here & read all you can about air from outside blowing arround under your first floors -- there is a huge potential for heat loss and air infiltration.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    SimonH: I wasn't trying to hide the fact that the energy potential of the 3000 litres of oil we burned was >32,000 kWh, but rather trying to get a handle on how much energy is required to heat the house as it stands at present. We are going for a "Tony" by going overboard on insulation and trying to eliminate draughts and then reassessing the energy needs before deciding on what to do next. Solar panels, thermal store, ASHP and (possibly) a new condensing oil fired boiler as backup are favourites at the moment.

    I take your point though. Good job the energy police haven't been invented yet! It may sound like sci-fi but I can envisage a future where we have detector vans (sim. to the TV type!) sporting IR cameras and going from house to house checking on insulation levels. Even better, a quick aerial scan from a helicopter to scan a whole district in one swoop and pick out the bad guys!

    Jeff B.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    Or from a satellite!
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    I want to see 'Doing a Tony" as a solution heading in the GBB.

    any votes?
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    Tony - you wrote:

    Jeff, search here & read all you can about air from outside blowing arround under your first floors -- there is a huge potential for heat loss and air infiltration.

    You mentioned this to me in another thread. I agreed that this is a definite hazard in a dormer bungalow where the spaces between the joists under the bedroom floors act as mini wind tunnels channelling cold air from one side of the loft (behind the dwarf wall) to the other. Perversely this air becomes increasingly colder of course as you add more insulation in the loft space!

    What I have done is to stuff a roll of insulation at each end of each of the "tunnels" so as to prevent air movement and create static void spaces under the bedroom floors. I realise this is not ideal as heat can still rise from the ground floor, heat the void space (volume = approx 12 cubic metres) and thus up to the bedrooms. However the bedrooms will be extensively insulated so as to retain this heat up there and not let it escape the building. I would put insulation in the voids but the flooring is T&G chipboard which has been nailed down and so would be a heck of a job to take up. It would be wrecked in the process necessitating new boarding - would it be worth the hassle do you think?

    Jeff B.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2007
     
    You have done well. It is not a problem to allow heat into the void it is keeping it there that I get concerned about.

    I wish all chalet bungalow owners (and builders had) done the same.

    HC.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2007
     
    Jeff - I realise that your thread has been hijacked to some extent (both by myself and others) and that one of your original questions i.e. that relating to the noise generated by ASHPs has not been addressed. Some time ago I raised this same concern with my intended supplier/installer of an ASHP. The heat pump I am interested in has a noise level of about 35 dB at a distance of 5 metres. Apparently from a comparative table I was sent, a very quiet garden has a noise level of 30 dB, a residential area with no traffic 40 dB and a slow moving river or brook 50 dB. This helps to put things in perspective I think but ultimately I would say that there is no substitute for actually going along and listening to the unit yourself, which is what I intend to do sometime early next year I hope.

    I did find some information on the Internet about reducing the impact of the noise from ASHPs on the neighbours. It might be useful for you. Please see the link below:

    www.hurlcon.com.au/manuals/HP_LEVELS.pdf

    Happy Christmas,
    Jeff B.
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