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General: Most cost effective form of insulation for barn conversion

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    Hi everybody,

    First post so please be gentle. I am halfway through a barn conversion. I have basically built a timber framed house inside the existing walls. I have an external breathable vapor barrier between the frame and the stone, which has been repointed on both sides. I have a minimum of 250mm between the inside of the frame and the vapor barrier. Until reading this forum I was going to use a 85/105mm kingspan from seconds and co at a cost of £4.50m2 for the floor, walls and loft. Is this the most cost effective sollution? I am Ok using it for the floor, but having taken in what everybody has said about drafts, and as the product is rigid - how do you make it draft-proof on the walls and ceiling if its going between trusses and frames? I had originally intended to build a floating roof and cross batten it for slating, but as I am reusing all the old slates, which are several different sizes and split if put into dressed battens I had to go for sarking.

    put in a few words ... With 250mm to play with and a limited budget what is the most cost effective and if possible green insulation to use?

    Any advice greatfully appreciated.

    James
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJan 1st 2008 edited
     
    I'm not a expert but as you said you've got a lot of space to play with
    I'd of thought your standard glasswool etc would do the job well for the lowest cost
    blown warmcell would be good but I'm not sure of the m2 price, approximately £16m2 supply and fit for 150mm ish
    this lot seems to have good prices
    http://www.naturalinsulations.co.uk/

    £4.50m2 seems a good price for kingspan though. I'm paying double that for 100mm firsts

    When I use kingspan etc' , I cut it as best as possible then use a expanding foam gun to fill all the gaps
    If you tape a mastic nosel on the end you can cut the end to the size required or squeeze it flat to get into small gaps
    once the foams gone hard , take the tape off and it unscrew the nosel, it leave a thread for a new one or clean out the old one and put it back on
    leave the the canister on until the finished and replace it straight away that way you never have to clean out the gun.

    happy new year

    Jim
    check out this discussion, might be useful
    http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=829&page=1#Item_0

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