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			<title>Green Building Forum - Shadow gaps</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Fri, 07 Aug 2026 19:39:03 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174236#Comment_174236</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 13:37:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>woodgnome</author>
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			<![CDATA[Is there a way of forming a shadow gap between wall/floor when plastering straight on to block-work, as opposed to dabbing plasterboard on the walls?<br />I see there are plenty of beads etc, but cant find anything for using wet plaster straight on block-work.<br />That's what happens when your other half watches Grand Designs !<br />She wants them on the cieling/wall junction too...]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174262#Comment_174262</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:51:20 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Triassic</author>
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			<![CDATA[Did'nt they cost an additional Â£5k or something? Or was it Â£10k ???!!<br /><br />You need to do that cost/benefit thing with her, or train her to plaster!]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174272#Comment_174272</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:32:50 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>skyewright</author>
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			<![CDATA[I'm no expert - I had to google shadow gap.<br /><br />The first thing I thought when I saw what they were was "dust trap", however each to their own...<br /><br />Someone on this link mentions using a U channel of some sort (presumably helps hide the unplastered blockwork?).<br /><br />http://community.screwfix.com/thread/10945?start=0&tstart=0]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174275#Comment_174275</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:35:26 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[I have done a job for a client where skirtings were omitted and a recess about 5" high created instead into which I inserted down facing LED striplighting. The wall face featured a slight downstand and the lighting tucked up behind , so not seen. The wall was Fermacell fixed onto battens. The battens needn't be big, e.g. 2" x 2", and then plasterboard fixed to them.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174281#Comment_174281</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:18:52 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>bot de paille</author>
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			<![CDATA[Use wooden beading to form the gap wanted while the undercoat plaster goes on.<br /><br /> Then use plasterboard metal edge beading to form the finish edge for the finish plaster.<br /><br />What flooring is going down?]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174365#Comment_174365</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:53:20 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: skyewright</cite>The first thing I thought when I saw what they were was "dust trap"</blockquote><br />Don't forget the spiders ...]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174368#Comment_174368</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:07:23 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>calvinmiddle</author>
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			<![CDATA[Owlman<br /><br />did you take any photos - sounds intertesting and I'll like to see what it looks like]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 14:21:24 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>RobinB</author>
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			<![CDATA[The Hepworth Gallery in Wakefield has them and personally I like them. IMHO they particularly suited this building.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.hepworthwakefield.org/whatson/" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.hepworthwakefield.org/whatson/</a>    The pictures keep changing but I think this links to a pic showing them.....]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174403#Comment_174403</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:07:47 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: RobinB</cite>personally I like them</blockquote><br />I have no problem with their aesthetics. I just think they're a beautiful impractical waste of money.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174424#Comment_174424</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 18:51:23 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Posted By: calvinmiddle<br />did you take any photos - sounds intertesting and I'll like to see what it looks like<br /><br />Yes, but as prints from film, I'll try and get them scanned somehow, to give you an idea.<br /><br /> djh.   I just think they're a beautiful impractical waste of money.<br /><br />Not necessarily, you don't have to buy and fix skirtings. Quite a saving if they are hardwood.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 22:45:13 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>woodgnome</author>
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			<![CDATA[Owlman, i would be interested in the pictures as well if you can sort them thanks.<br />Beads i have found are for boarded walls, i was going to plaster straight on to block work.<br /><a href="http://www.expamet.co.uk/product/plasterers-accessories/metal-bead-plasterboard/feature-bead" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.expamet.co.uk/product/plasterers-accessories/metal-bead-plasterboard/feature-bead</a><br /><a href="http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-accessories/15-15-shadow-gap-plasterboard-trim-3000mm/" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-accessories/15-15-shadow-gap-plasterboard-trim-3000mm/</a><br /><a href="http://www.barbourproductsearch.info/renderplas-makes-shadow-gaps-simpler-with-new-news016813.html" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.barbourproductsearch.info/renderplas-makes-shadow-gaps-simpler-with-new-news016813.html</a><br /><br />bot de paille, the problem i see with that is there is no finish on the back of the gap, just the block.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174476#Comment_174476</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:15:39 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>bot de paille</author>
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			<![CDATA[I have only done this once, and the gap was around 5-8mm from the floor, so you would never see the back of the gap.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:39:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi DAve, hi Paul,<br />Just tried to whisper you the pics but the file is too big for the allowable 500kb. If you want to whisper your email then I'll send them that way.<br />Mike]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 13:23:12 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>cullym</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[@woodgnome - expamet have a metal bead for this. This is the page I'd bookmarked when SWMBO brought up the idea of not having skirtings :-)<br /><br />http://www.expamet.co.uk/product/plasterers-accessories/metal-bead-internal-use/architrave-feature-bead]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 13:52:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: bot de paille</cite>the gap was around 5-8mm from the floor, so you would never see the back of the gap</blockquote>Using plaster as airtight layer?]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 14:51:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>bot de paille</author>
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			<![CDATA[lol, definitely not an energy efficient orientated project, as most them weren't<br /><br /> But back in the days when customers were swimming in (equity) cash, people were only interested in 2000 pound Smeg fridges, granite worktops, and shadow gaps... and that they would retire property millionaires]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:23:31 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>woodgnome</author>
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			<![CDATA[Cullym, thanks for the link.<br /><br />Edit..just worked out what/who  SWMBO is..!]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564&amp;Focus=174651#Comment_174651</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 11:22:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Dave, hi Paul, Did you get the pics? Sorry they weren't close ups but I think the format will allow magnification, not sure on the resolution though.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 13:55:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>calvinmiddle</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Owlman<br /><br />Got them thanks, haven't had a change to look at them in any detail yet but looks neat.<br /><br />I like the idea of a shadow gap as can't stand skirtings.  But may go for the "recessed style skirting where it sits flush with the wall and between them is a shadow gap.<br /><br />Got another question though, what is the point of skirting and architraves and the rest of all that trim?  Joiner on our reburb said that anywhere you had 2 different materials joining you needed to have trim to stop cracks showing.<br /><br />But even with trim you still have 2 materials joining, so is the point to that the crack forms on the corner where they join so it's less noticable?]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 14:07:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>joe90</author>
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			<![CDATA[Architrave is fixed to the door frame, which will move as timber dries/shrinks/doors slam, but it slides over the plaster coat so yes you will have a line between timber/plaster but hardly noticable, less noticible than a crack between timber and plaster. Skirting as far as I know is just a fashionable kick panel.  I really like tiled floors and an upstand of tiles acting as skirting.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 15:14:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: joe90</cite>Architrave is fixed to the door frame, which will move as timber dries/shrinks/doors slam, but it slides over the plaster coat so yes you will have a line between timber/plaster but hardly noticable, less noticible than a crack between timber and plaster. Skirting as far as I know is just a fashionable kick panel.  I really like tiled floors and an upstand of tiles acting as skirting.</blockquote><br />I think the word kick is the most important one. All these bits of trim serve dual functions - they tidy up edge details and they provide impact protection to the plaster surface. A dado rail is perhaps the exception, in that all it does is provide impact protection unless you have a panelled dado. I agree about a tiled skirting.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 16:31:01 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>RobinB</author>
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			<![CDATA["A dado rail is perhaps the exception" - not exactly - a proper dado rail would be at the height of your chair backs to protect your lovely wallpaper.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 16:40:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[It looks like djh meant a dado rail is an exception to having the function of tidying up edge details.]]>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 17:17:12 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>RobinB</author>
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			<![CDATA[.... see your point, I didn't really add anything helpful - sorry!]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 19:32:43 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rex</author>
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			<![CDATA[Another way to create a shadow gap is to dry line with Fermacell and then use a plunge saw on its side to trim away the lower edge, parallel with the floor.  This could also be done on the top edge but only after the ceiling dry lining had been installed.<br /><br />Rex]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:02:39 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: RobinB</cite>a proper dado rail would be at the height of your chair backs</blockquote>Alternative trad name is chair rail!]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 13:59:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Rex</cite>Another way to create a shadow gap is to dry line with Fermacell and then use a plunge saw on its side to trim away the lower edge, parallel with the floor.  This could also be done on the top edge but only after the ceiling dry lining had been installed.<br /></blockquote><br />Why not install the Fermacell with a gap under it to start with? Or are you cutting away only part of the depth of the panel?]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 17:29:02 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Posted By: djh..........Why not install the Fermacell with a gap under it to start with? <br /><br />Generally making a continuous trimming cut afterwards produces a better crisper more parallel line especially if the floor is for instance previously laid wood or ceramic where any bottom line undulation would be noticable, especially if illuminated. Admittedly you do need the right tools though, IMO.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2015 08:11:22 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rex</author>
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			<![CDATA[I was searching for information on shadow gaps and found this thread, which I see that I contributed to way back.<br /><br />Reading it again, there is the mention of architrave around doors, being there to allow movement between the door frame and plaster.  Personally, I think it is there because the average plasterer is unable to do a very neat job and the architrave can be used to hide c**p workmanship.  But I have never done any plastering so do not know how hard it it to make a neat edge finish.<br /><br />However, I have a timber frame house, used Fermacell for the drylining the doors were door-sets, already finished and I do not have architrave around them.  I butt joined the Fermacell to the door frame, made it all flush and left a small 'V' groove for any future cracking.  To date, four years down the line, virtually no cracks around the doors.]]>
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		<title>Shadow gaps</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2015 09:50:12 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>bot de paille</author>
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			<![CDATA[Architrave is an aesthetic feature used to cover the join between the wall and the door frame. Its not really about hiding anything or allowing for movement per se. Its an aesthetic choice that was made many years ago that people would rather see wooden moulding than the join/crack/gap around the frame. When architrave was introduced plastering was done with lime which is softer, more likely to crack at junctions with wood and also crumble with time (doors being subject to vibration from opening and closing several thousand times) <br /><br />Believe me, most plasterers are more than capable of plastering any way you want around a door frame.]]>
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