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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hello,

    I am buying my Council flat which has a history of mould and poor ventilation. I am planning to fit a MVHR unit to solve the mould and help reduce heating costs.

    I want to save money, being poor and was hopping to fit it myself. Getting it commissioned (balanced) afterwards.

    I have designed the system in my head, looking at as many recommendations and building regulations as a good novice might. :bigsmile:

    The problem being I need to get permission from the Freeholder (the Council). I will need to submit a design and specifications to meet an unknown standard. This is going to cost more I know.

    So my two questions as it stands are...What is the best way forward ? I guess I need to find someone to design as well as commission the unit. But I have a clear idea what I want and will only need a few pointers. Or do I just find someone who can commission it and agree my basic plans ? Any recommendations, I'm in South London ?

    The other question I have is regarding my design. I have a choice between venting the unit "on the same level as the intake", through an already cut window or by using a redundant chimney. The redundant chimney is from an old 'hot air system' and is substantial and there will be no danger of moisture coming back into the unit. I was hopping to use the chimney as it has a passive suck to it which will aid the fans. Yet at the same time, will it make it impossible to balance and commission the system to any standard ?

    I'll planning to fit a Nuair unit (MRXBOX95B-WM1 ) to a well sealed concrete flat, about 50m2 in total.
    Cost of unit MRXBOX95B-WM1 is £575 + 4% carriage + VAT = £717.60
    With ridged piping throughout and making good, I expect to pay no more than £1500 in total, if I can 'do it myself'.

    I was hoping any design and commissioning will not add too much to this, someone has quoted me a lot to commission it after seeing plans and calculations; which I may not be able to do to any real standard. :shamed:

    Any advise or comments more than welcome. Thanks :cool:
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2013
     
    With such a small system commissioning, even balancing and the testing are hardly needed, the outflow could go up the redundant chimney but where is your inlet?

    Will the box go in a loft? or in a cupboard? otherwise this one they do might fit in a lobby ceiling MRXBOX95-LP1

    Insulation might help.

    Re cost, there is unfortunately a cost associated with good air quality but you will get that for sure! Either draughts and heat losses or fan power and not much heat loss.

    I like your style, if it was me I dont think I would tell the council I would just do it on the quiet
  2.  
    Thanks.
    I will try and get something agreed, I've already let the cat out of the bag by asking.
    I should be able to satisfy Building Controls who seem to only want to make sure that the unit is compliant and it is big enough for the job and therefore the Freeholder should be happy(figures crossed). I will report back with the hoops I had to jump through.

    For intake I was going to remove a fan in the kitchen which has a hole going straight out, the chimney goes up another 3 floors and like I say has a good suck on it. I'd welcome any other comments on using the chimney.

    The box will have to go in a cupboard but I've a good one, away from the bedroom and living room which will do nicely.

    I do plan to continue to insulate, I've a couple more rooms where I need to line the old solid walls which do loose heat. But one thing at a time and the mould needs attention. :shocked:

    :cool:
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeNov 27th 2013
     
    Sure if you provided a scale plan, someone around here would run the calcs for you.. The commissioning paperwork for MVHR would be good enough for BCO and your freeholder. You would need the loan of a decent airflow meter to set the system up and commission tho..but I believe you can rent one for not much if you are not too rural
  3.  
    Here is a scale plan.

    Please note the chimney !
    I am still concerned about designing with using the chimney as I wonder if this will make it impossible to balance.

    Any other advise, I know I should not supply over doors but they are existing holes from old 'hot air' system and it will save loads of time and effort .


    Here's me trying and do the calculations, although I'm a bit clueless. :surfing:

    It seems to me that I need 13 L/S for the Kitchen
    plus 8 L/S for the bathroom. Equals 21 L/S for boost speed.

    Now I'd only need (50m3 x 0.3) 15 L/S at normal speed.

    So it would be 15 L/S split between the two in's and out's at normal speed.
    and 21 L/S split for boost speed.

    Any advise?
    Would anyone what to do the commissioning for me ? I'd pay what I could and it should be an easy small job.

    :bigsmile: :boogie:
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeNov 28th 2013
     
    Looks good for a simple system. Not sure about exhausting up the flue tho, could mess with the balance of the system? If you in no hurry to commission I get to town about once a year.. otherwise it's a 440 mile, 63 kgCO2 round trip :shocked:
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeNov 28th 2013
     
    Echo concern about chimney exhaust. If the MVHR is doing it's job the exhaust air will be cold, so there will be no suck anymore. The cold air travelling up 3 floors of chimney will ensure this chimney is kept chilly too.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 28th 2013
     
    Duct it up the chimney flue in an insulated liner. The inlet will cool the house, how about bringing the cold air in down the chimney.
  4.  
    Thanks.

    So it seems that most people think that the chimney is a bad idea. :cry:

    Since there would be a low temperature difference the suck will be greatly reduced.
    I would then be left with a possible problems of a chilled flume which will attract moister.

    Is that right?
    Sorry don't want to let go of some ideas. I would therefore have to vent out the bathroom window which has a fan in it at the moment. Will this be another problem in it's self ? Was hoping not to have to cover any of the window but should be able to box the corner where it will go out. Again any comments welcome.


    I guess I'll be waiting for a blue moon for the Council to agree so Yes might well be able to wait for you to come to the big smoke.

    EDIT.
    With it working at about 90% there will be a 1 or 2 degree difference it the air at the bottom and the air at the top of the chimney so it would still such up and out. :confused:
  5.  
    Can you run the intake and exhaust ducts to an external wall either to the left of the cupboard the unit is in, or through the bathroom?

    It would simplify the layout, use less ducting and it's better to keep those runs short anyway. Don't forget a vapour impermeable insulation layer for them in order to avoid condensation build up on the outer surface of the duct.

    Unless there is a reason to run the ducts along the walls, it would also be simpler to run the supply down the centre of the hall and "T" the bedroom off from there.
  6.  
    The left of the flat is not outside.

    I have changed the design now without the flume. Now I have a choice which one I use for in and out of the building. The window or the hole in the wall. I was thinking I might swap them if I abandon the flume so each fan is working more evenly.

    I can put the vents up the middle of the hall just I will need to box them in so loose more space. Was thinking with such a small system it will not make too much difference. But I've no real experience.

    Still concerned about using the window, although it would stop me having to replace the double glazed glass, which has a hole for a fan in it.
    • CommentAuthorslidersx200
    • CommentTimeNov 28th 2013 edited
     
    If the duct connections on the unit are accurate on your drawing, it could be better to turn it 90 degrees anticlockwise, taking both the intake and exhaust out through the bathroom wall. If you took down the bathroom ceiling you could run most of the ductwork pretty easily without disturbing too much else.

    Just try to keep the external vents at least 1.5m apart if possible. Running the duct through the window could create a tricky to deal with thermal bridge if you were really concerned with detail:-)
  7.  
    The problem I have it its a second floor flat and cutting any new whole in the external walls will be too much of an effort for any real benefit from all this work. Cost basically of scaffolding etc. And Freeholder would freak.

    So I have a whole cut in the kitchen wall and boiler being on the other side of the kitchen window.
    The other existing out is the hole in the bathroom window. Or the flume.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 28th 2013
     
    diamond core drill?
  8.  
    three floors up ?

    There's also no space on bathroom wall. The window is long and thin, high up, all the way along the outside wall.

    Thanks though.
  9.  
    I'm getting a bit confused so will need to look again in the morning.


    Thanks for all the thoughts :bigsmile:
  10.  
    So this is a tidy solution. Thanks "slidersx200"

    Cons.
    1. Does not use flume. (unless somebody wants to back the flume idea I guess I'll have to let go of it. :cry:)
    2. Difficult to service unit. but not impossible. and more noise transfer from that wall. :confused:
    3. More bends then ideal, but thats retro fitting. :tongue:

    Right ! I'll forget it for a while... and my mind will start to settle.
    Thanks for all the pointers. :bigsmile:
    Still unsure about calculations... :confused:
  11.  
    No, that wall will not be best. (noise transfer, poor construction of wall, existing electrical cabling, hard to get to unit for maintenance)
    It'll be best backing the flume and just using a couple of 45 degree bends.

    So if I say how long and how many bends and such there are in each run, is there a way of calculating resistance, or is this calculation not needed? I'll be using 125mm rigid piping. Guess since the unit comes with a graph of 'power', 'pressure resistance' and 'flow rates' I could work out just how much a 90 degree bend will cost in energy over X years. :bigsmile:

    OK thinking about it any calculation will need to be sequential. As what's just happened and the new pressure will effect how much lost there will be in the next bend. That's going to be tricky.:cry:

    So my thought on the chimney \ flume are.
    Pros.
    1. It's designed for hot air so will be heat resistant and there for cool resistant, yes?
    2. Its so substantial at least ten times the area of the MVHRs piping. So there will be no negative pressure to speak of and like I say with a 1 or 2 degree difference over 10m must have a bit of a pull.
    3. Its much easier to use than the window and closer to unit and will save meters of tubing.
    Cons.
    1. Commissioning the unit as any suction may vary.
    2. Getting it agreed, though I do not need to advertise it too much. As long as it would not cause unseen problems. :wink:
    3. I've no experience either.

    Any comments welcome.
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    Don't need resistance calcs. Install as well as poss for retrofit, minimize run lengths and bends, use rigid ducting wherever possible. The commissioning will sort the rest as the terminals can be adjusted to give required flow rates.
    The chimney is a red herring. Use the window if it means the difference between installing and not. You can change this later if someone is not happy. Get that bathroom window upgraded and whilst it is out, core drill for the exhaust duct. Or reduce the size of the new window leaving room for the duct next to it, fill not drill?
  12.  
    Simon, if you can't run both ducts to outside the unit is probably better the way you had it facing before.

    I took the liberty of crunching a few numbers based on the areas given in your floor plan which will might help. It is assumed that there are 3 or less occupants.

    The ventilation unit should be capable of delivering 100m3/h in boost mode (this assumes maximum extraction is needed from the kitchen and bathroom simultaneously), the normal flow rate is 77m3/h. One thing to be mindful of with these figures is that the result is an air change rate of 0.6ach which could lead to the air feeling dry so I would advise that you seek guidance from the supplier or manufacturer. 0.3-0.5ach is usually the recommended range. The reason for the relatively high rate is that the volume of the flat is quite small in relation to the potential extract requirements.

    For now, taking this flow rate as correct the individual requirements at normal mode are as follows:
    (duct name, flow rate, minimum round duct size(choose closest available size up), air speed for quiet operation):

    Intake, 77m3/h, 95mm, 3m/s.
    Exhaust, 77m3/h, 95mm, 3m/s.
    Kitchen extract, 46.2m3/h, 90mm, 2m/s
    Bathroom extract, 30.8m3/h, 74mm, 2m/s
    Bedroom supply, 34.7m3/h, 78mm, 2m/s
    Living room, 42.3m3/h, 86mm, 2m/s
    The "trunk ducts" ie the one along the hall and the short run from the unit to the "T" between kitchen and bathroom are also 77m3/h, 95mm, 3m/s.

    You may also choose to install an inline silencer in the section of ducting between 2 rooms to avoid crosstalk noise transfer and/or use some flexible ducting for connections to the unit to reduce vibration type noise.
  13.  
    Thanks Finny.

    Are you saying 'do not use chimney no matter' or are you saying 'use it if you can' ?

    Else I'm feeling a bit more confident. Thanks. :bigsmile:
  14.  
    Thanks again slidersx200, I'll have to study all that.

    " that the result is an air change rate of 0.6ach which could lead to the air feeling dry so I would advise that you seek guidance from the supplier or manufacturer."
    Thanks I've just emailed them.

    Could that standard not be the boost rate? So the boost got little use and I could set the normal flow rates to keep the humidity comfortable. Don't want to go from too wet to too dry. :confused:
  15.  
    The minimum total flow rate to deliver 0.3ach is 38m3/h, the maximum you are ever likely to need is 100m3/h so the normal could be anywhere in between depending on number of occupants and how they behave.

    To maintain good air quality in a bedroom while you are sleeping normally requires 15.4m3/h per person. My calcs gave 34.7m3/h to the bedroom at normal mode so not much above that recommendation, assuming 2 people in there.

    Depending on how airtight the flat is and how well the air can transition between spaces there might not be much need for worry given the total volume anyway.

    PS my last post should have read "if you can't run both ducts to outside through the bathoom the unit is probably better facing the way you had it before."
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    Correct, don't use the chimney.. wall and window for now, you can always reconfigure the window down the line..
    Not sure about ducting of various sizes.. too much egg in that pudding for my liking. 160 mm if it will fit, 125 mm if not. Also preferred your extract rates..industry standard, can be tweaked later.. supply is same total, divided between terminals relative to room sizes.
    Seems you are good to go..no?
  16.  
    Yes. Ready to go, almost !
    I've added silencers to supply.

    Yes I'll go with 125mm as it is what the unit takes.

    So I've added the rates to plan for the BCO. Also some ratios with a total supply of about 51m3/h for myself to get 0.42ach.

    Will have to wait a little for an OK from Freeholder and will need to think about the practicalities of using the window and how I'll make it work. But will keep you informed.

    Thanks again.:cool:
  17.  
    I just got the go-ahead from the BCO. He's happy as long as I get it professionally commissioned and submit paper work. Else, he explained, they would simply pay someone themselves to check any commissioning to be able to 'OK' a self fit. :cool: Still waiting for the 'Freeholder' but there are no obstacles now :wink:

    I thought of a good way of running a insulated vent to the window. I plan to have insulated ducting (ridged and insulated flex around it) throughout and all boxed off. When it comes to the window I'll drop it straight down and straight out the cut hole in the corner of the window. I will not insulate this drop with the flexible ducking but just use a gauge up of ridged ducting, as a shield to any insulation on this run. Then seal that off. It will look quite neat ! :rolling:

    One practical concern is, will 125mm ridge ducking (plastic) fit through a 125mm core drilled hole? I will ask supplier but thought someone may have experience.

    I am thinking of going with a short run of flexi ducking to help stop noise transfer from the box. I'm thinking this might be fiddly so wanted to ask how much of a benefit it will be with a unit like this. Is there not a product out there, cause I don't fancy trying to cut flexi ducking into four 20-30cm bits?

    Finally I will be looking to try and set it up myself using a wind speed meter but will need to get a professional to produce paper work for BCO. So if anyone can help me with this cheaply please let me know. 'Finny' if you're going to be in London February or something let me know. I will PM you when I've got the final go ahead.

    Thanks again every one for your help and support. I am sure I wouldn't have got to this stage without you.

    Finally (again, sorry) looking at the design below with two people living in property will I get away with a 0.3ac/h rate at standard and 0.6 at boost? (36m2/h and 77m2/h)
    :rasta::jumping:

    EDIT : Really don't want to know if a ridge 'duck' will fit though a 125mm core hole, just whether 'ducting' will, sorry for any confusion. :bigsmile:
  18.  
    So I'll be finished this weekend.

    Managed to get commissioning agreed for £150.

    I was going over the flow rates and have been using the numbers "slidersx200" gave me above.
    Now he split the extraction from the kitchen and bathroom 40% and 60%, where as the space is a 30% 70% split. Did he just make an error, or am I meant to supply more to bathroom than kitchen in relation to their size?

    Thank for any help, would like to set it up before commissioning.
  19.  
    Hi Simon, glad to hear you've made progress with your install.

    The extract figures are based on the recommended extract requirements for the relevant room type and the supply figures are worked out based on the floor area of the supply rooms.

    Hope that helps to clarify things.

    Regards
    Michael
  20.  
    Hi , slider , got any link to good simple info on how to do these calcs. recommend rate etc.
    thanks ,
    Just got hold of a 2nd hand ventaxia sentinel unit so think of upgrading my little 2 room sys. to whole house.
    cheers Jim
  21.  
    anybody else got a good link to design info for MHRV
    cheers
   
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