Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)


Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

powered by Surfing Waves

Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
    A simple couple of questions guys ... we are about to make up the shuttering for the raft for our detached garage. I have spare scaffolding boards or can use the timber sitting ready to be put together for the garage frame. They give me options of a depth of 225mm or 150mm. The cost of the extra ready mix concrete is minor as most of the cost is in the delivery of the one load. The only reason I'm thinking of the greater depth is to give me more scope for fixing the frame down to the raft - i.e. longer fixings. Any thoughts?

    Talking of fixing the frame to the raft I am planning to use resin fixed threaded bars. But can I simply push the bars into the wet concrete?

    Your advice will - as always - be much appreciated.

    Kind regards, Jonathan
    Posted By: CerisyBut can I simply push the bars into the wet concrete?

    Over here the fixing threaded bars are routinely pushed into the wet concrete on things like ring beams so I don't see why you should not do this for your garage base. One problem can be that the bars can move out of alignment before the concrete goes off enough to hold them. also if you do push them into the concrete bend a hook in the end or put a couple of nuts with a large washer between on the end to anchor the bar and prevent pull out later. Also make sure that the bar ends with the hook or nuts goes below the rebar mesh (you are putting in rebar mesh aren't you?)
    Personally I would use express nails, much easier than threaded bar.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
    Thanks for the advice guys ...

    Peter, I'm using ready-mix with metal fibres in it to give the strength with easy of pour. So pushing the bars in should be okay. I'll look at taking up your suggestions on nuts and washers!

    Chris - someone else had suggested the express nails but I'll struggle to get them here and I can get threaded bar from Bricomarche!!

    Cheers, Jonathan
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
    Does the threaded bar need to be stainless or anything? If galvanized do you need to get it in the right lengths?
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
    Ed - inserted directly into the concrete will protect that end no problem. The end in the timber wall plate ... maybe galvanised would be best. I'll have to see what's available!!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
    When I built garages on rafts we use thickened up edges, 225 x 400 with the slab as 125mm, the whole thing monolithic.

    While the concrete was still wet we would place engineering bricks round under where the frame was going tight against the shuttering. Build the frame, end day one after the weekend put up frame, clad, build roof, third dat tile it. Frame can be fixed through holes in the bricks, or we would push holding down straps in beside the bricks at 2m c/c. We always stained the cladding before fixing.

    I preferred mesh to fibres.
    Posted By: CerisyChris - someone else had suggested the express nails but I'll struggle to get them here and I can get threaded bar from Bricomarche!!
    I had trouble trying to find express nails here in Sweden until I found out that they call them expander nails here.

    One picture is worth a thousand words, so now I have learned to do a Google image search and show them what I want rather than trying to explain it!
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   

© Green Building Press