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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorJT101
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    We have a 1930s suspended floor construction. Pretty much like the construction seen in the attached image.
    I laid my new mdpe water pipe in a trench in the front garden, and passed some ducting (110mm soil pipe) under the porch, an v it had to go under the footings of the outside wall. I made a hole just about big enough to pass the soil pipe through.
    Do I need a lintel over this pipe, or should it be ok given that it's only 140mm hole. Access would be a knightmare to dig this out properly. From the outside I have to squeeze between the garden path and garden wall where all of drainage, gas, electric and water pipes run, plus having to go underneath the porch which is 1m depth.

    From the inside it isn't much better. Would have to pull up all the floor boards and work between joists, digging out 100mm of concrete.

    Perhaps I can try and put some concrete between the tiny gap between the top of the pipe and the footings?
      Duct.jpg
  1.  
    We brought our new supply through in a similar way last year and although ours came through the wall rather than under I just pointed any gaps around the pipe. As our external ground level was quite a bit higher than inside it ended up coming in at floor level so we cored the hole through and dug down to it from outside. Your pic doesn't show any insulation however we were required to insulate the pipe within the duct.

    It went under the footings of our boundary wall and the water company also did the same the other end, i.e no lintel.

    Don't know if that helps.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    To late for you, but I used a INSUduct and Groundbreaker 3 to avoid having to go in under the floor.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    I think insulation is only required if the pipe comes near the surface outside the house, which I don't think James' does. I don't think you'll need a lintel as long as the duct is deep enough (750 mm for water, is it?) and I would be inclined to fill any gaps with pea gravel rather than a rigid material like concrete.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    I know that this gets done, the web is full of debate about burying PVC pipe in concrete etc..

    e.g. http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/pvc-pipe-buried-directly-in-concrete-326469-.htm

    Personally I'd avoid having concrete in direct contact with PVC pipe: if (when...) shrinkage occurs, the pipe could be subjected to pressure which over time could result in embrittlement and eventual weeping. Imagine some time in the future sombody pouring boiling water or hydrochloric acid / drain cleaner down that pipe... Therefore I'd wrap the pipe first with something soft, or paint it with bitumen etc.

    I have had terrible problems with PVC wastes being laid directly through 6-inch poured concrete walls, a nightmare in fact. The only happy person is the painter... Use a sleeve !

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    The waste pipe is the sleeve! It's being used as a duct for an MDPE water supply pipe.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    PVC wastes are a lot weaker then underground drain pipes.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    OK, gents, say no more, I get it -- My Apologies for reading too quick !

    (ought-I to delete my irrelevant "contribution" ?)
    and just replace it by a "." ?

    gg
    • CommentAuthorGotanewlife
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: gyrogearought-I to delete my irrelevant "contribution"
    No, don't - I didn't know that you shouldn't put waste pipes nude into cement - would probably have done so in the next 6 months without your 'irrelevant contribution'. :wink:
    • CommentAuthorJT101
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    Just to clarify, yes the pipe is insulated with Armaflex all the way from the outer most point of the duct right up to the stop cock inside the house. I've just updated the diagram. And djh is right. It is just an empty piece of soil pipe used to carry the MDPE pipe.
    My concern is more the structural integrity of the footings now that I've run a 140mm hole directly underneath them. Every water company I've looked at specifies that the water pipe must enter the property at min 750mm depth and inside a duct. I don't know why it can't enter higher if it is insulated e.g with Armaflex or Insuduct, but that's what they say. And now I'm worried my wall might start to shift.
    I think pea shingle as a minimum is the way forward.
  2.  
    Posted By: JT101I don't know why it can't enter higher if it is insulated e.g with Armaflex or Insuduct,

    because 750mm is considered below the frost line, and higher could be subject to frost. Insulation only delays freezing doesn't stop it. If you go away for your winter skiing holiday the insulated pipe above 750mm could still freeze - any insulated water pipe will freeze unless the water flows sufficiently to replace the (slowly) lost heat through the insulation,

    PS Personally I would not put a bridge over the soil pipe ducting the water pipe. IMO the foundations should be able to take a hole for the soil pipe without integrity issues. And if they can't how much damage / weakness will you create putting in a bridge as a retrofit. I assume the foundations are mass concrete and not concrete bulked out with rubble and alike.
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 22nd 2016 edited
     
    I'm not a structural engineer but 140mm under the footing of a whole wall run seems a tiny amount, rats and badgers will have dug much worse and houses are still standing. The load across the 140mm will be well distrbuted. I'd personally not worry about it, and would backfill the hole and forget about it.

    if the hole were bigger, rather than a traditional lintel, I'd consider helibars fixed in the mortar lines for a course or two above the footing, but this really isn't necessary for such a small opening in my opinion.
    • CommentAuthorJT101
    • CommentTimeApr 22nd 2016
     
    Hi Peter

    Thanks for your response. That clarifies that. It's hard to say really as I can't see much, but once I got down about 500mm below the concrete slab, I was able to dig through soil. There was definitely some hardcore there just before I reached this point but whether this was part of the concrete footings or just a hardcore layer I'm not sure.
    It seemed too shallow to accomodate both hardcore, concrete and a few courses of bricks based on the image above so it must be part of the concrete footing. Given the build quality of some older houses, I wouldn't be surprised. I'm sure they chucked any old stuff in there.
    Anyway, I'll try and shove some small pea shingle around the hole. Now way I'll get any concrete in there anyway without further excavation.
  3.  
    Posted By: MarkyPI'm not a structural engineer but 140mm under the footing of a whole wall run seems a tiny amount, rats and badgers will have dug much worse and houses are still standing. The load across the 140mm will be well distributed. I'd personally not worry about it,
    Absolutely agree.
    • CommentAuthorJT101
    • CommentTimeApr 23rd 2016
     
    Great, that's what I wanted to hear. I'm not taking your word for it, but now I've spoken to several people in different parts of the building trade and that's the general consensus. In hindsight Insuduct or a Lintel may have been the way to go. Actually asking a structural engineer before I started the work might have been an idea but I didn't think too much of it at the time. The gremlins in my mind came afterwards. I've bought some 10mm pea shingle which I'll do my best to cram around the pipe. Nice one everyone, cheers for your responses.
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