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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthortonya
    • CommentTimeMay 29th 2021
    I have started to build a greenhouse/outside space as didn't like what I saw selling for silly money.
    Making it with a timber frame and leaning against high limescale wall. I am inserting glass into roof timbers and need to prevent water ingression where glass rests on rebated timber. I thought perhaps I could run a cut down the timber and insert strips of lead that overlaps onto glass. Does this sound like a good idea?! Picture attached. Is this an accepted method? Many thanks for any thoughts/experience on this.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 29th 2021
    If you lap lead onto glass the lead salts that get leached out by rainwater will etch the glass! Not a lot of people know this but it is basic chemistry, glass contains lead, it gives rise to white streaks that stain in irregular pattern which are impossible to remove
    • CommentTimeMay 29th 2021
    Plus a vertical rebate into the top of the support will probably collect water and rot faster? Glazing tape and another strip of wood over the top might work?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeMay 29th 2021
    Water will likely wick between the glass and the lead and end up in the rebate. Once its wet its not likely to dry. You could bond the lead to the glass but if that seal fails youll have water in again.
    • CommentAuthortonya
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2021
    Thanks for your comments on my dilemma here. I had thought I could simply fold the lead over the wood battens-glass would be on either side except at the ends. I am sure I have seen this method, and will look around Bath nr where I live and take a look! Only other solution, and a lot cheaper is to use silicone to bed the glass in + nail pins and wooden beading.
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2021
    https://www.patent-glazing.com/downloads-rafterline-patent-glazing-system-single-glazed.html is the only reliable way to do it - this is the first that came up; there are much less elaborate versions if you search
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2021
    I used patent glazing for our conservatory roof and it is a very good system and a great company to deal with but probably over kill for what you are doing. Many years ago in my previous place I built a cedar green house and got my glazing system from a company that sold polycarbonate sheet. It was simply a rubber gasket parked on the rafter glazing butted up with a gap and a capping bar with strip seal screwed down over the top. There are loads of systems like this around.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2021
    What about glazing putty. Wooden batten at the bottom to hold glass in place, angled bead of putty, and over painted by a couple of mm on to glass. Works with old wood framed windows. Or same but with silicone.

    I've put together fixed dg timber windows before, using butyl to bed timber to glass, and I've used both silicone and putty for the external seal. Silicone is easier, but I suspect the putty will be longer lasting as long as its over painted.
    • CommentTimeMay 31st 2021
    What revor said is what I meant - and intermediate designs.
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