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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi All,

    I live in a late '50s semi that has some pretty big (and pretty bad) alu framed DG windows. Sizes range between 25-40% of the external wall area of any of the rooms.

    Due to the "outboard" positioning of the windows we get a lot of thermal bridging in the reveals - the brick outer leaf is within the heated envelope of the house and is a condensation horror show, particularly on the north side of the house. This is being mitigated in the short term with foil tape to stop the emulsion going mouldy in the perpetual winter damp which, as you imagine, is not terribly attractive.

    I have been considering some approaches to resolve the thermal bridging when we come to change the windows but they would lead to a reduction in the dims of the window openings and a cascade of issues relating to lead times for new windows and the requirement to temporarily block the openings with somekind of ply/PIR/plasterboard sandwich for some time. Which would probably not be acceptable within the household - even I think it's probably too much to live in the dark for X number of weeks/months!

    Is such an approach ever practical or would it just be better to take the money allocated for any remedial work and spend on better windows in the original openings with some other lightweight strategy to mitigate the thermal bridging (aerogel)?
  2.  
    Hello darthgarth and welcome to the forum.

    In the first instance it would be really helpful to get a horizontal plan drawing and/or vertical section of your current wall construction & openings. Even a quick pencil sketch will help everyone to understand the problem better.

    For what it's worth, I doubt that you'll find the aerogel option cost effective and it's generally recognised that whilst it is amazing stuff, it is only twice as good as more mainstream options like EPS silver (0,014 W/mK vs 0,030 W/mK). So at the minimal thicknesses involved, unless you are in a tiny city-centre flat measuring every millimetre of floor area, it rarely pays off.

    With that out of the way, would it be an option visually to introduce the 'picture frame' window boxes that have been widely discussed on here a few times? I can't tell whether your retrofit plan includes EWI at some point, in which case you could pre-fit the box surrounds on the outside in advance and then move the windows further out into this layer, without too much time 'in the dark'.

    From what you've said above though, it sounds more like you are intending to keep the outer brick exposed and want to bring the window line inwards? There are various strap bracket options that let you hang the windows further in or out of the opening. Once we know the inner leaf construction and whether you plan to IWI or EWI, the options will become clearer.
  3.  
    This website has some good pictures of the 'picture frame' external window approach:

    http://www.fourwalls-uk.com/blog/category/windows-doors/


    Plus, I've also just found this useful resource, the Retrofit Pattern Book, which may help to narrow down your options:

    https://retrofit.support/category/IWI-W-RP/
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2024
     
    Posted By: darthgarththe requirement to temporarily block the openings with somekind of ply/PIR/plasterboard sandwich for some time. Which would probably not be acceptable within the household - even I think it's probably too much to live in the dark for X number of weeks/months!
    You might be able temporarily to block holes with clear polycarbonate panels (possibly multicellular so translucent rather than transparent) instead of ply etc. If you plan to do the work in the summer, or even parts of spring or autumn, you won't need insulation.

    I'm also a bit confused. On the one hand you imply the windows are too large, but then you worry about reducing their size slightly?

    Classically, the best place for a window is in the plane of the insulation, wherever that is or is planned to be.
  4.  
    Thanks for the replies DT and DJH. Apologies for any confusion from my initial post.

    In answer to DJH first, I would be happy to reduce the window size to improve thermal performance and would think it necessary in order to remove (as far as possible/practical) the thermal bridging. Thanks for the suggestion about polycarbonate as temporary windows - definitely a better solution than the gloom!

    In response to DT. Below *should* be a plan view of the construction of the walls showing the position of the window in the opening.

    Thanks for the links to the fourwalls site and the Retrofit Pattern Book. The fourwalls property has some commonality with our house having finlock gutters. Interestingly though theirs were positioned above the windows with (I presume) a lintel against which the picture frame could properly seated. In my property the finlocks are directly over the window frame which may not prove to be great fixing point for the timbers of the picture frame. AIUI, the picture frame approach is only for EWI, right? In my limited experience I havent seen this approach on properties with brick/stone outer leaves.

    I would love to EWI the house but that would be some way down the road for us. So maybe bringing the windows in towards the filled cavity would be the way to resolve the condensation on the walls without the complications of changing the size of the openings or requiring EWI. I appreciate it's not the long term thinking that is preferred but gives an option that enables us to remove the mildew defences (foil tape) currently in place.

    Thanks for any further thoughts and suggestions!
      Window_Plan_Section.png
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2024
     
    Posted By: darthgarthThe fourwalls property has some commonality with our house having finlock gutters. Interestingly though theirs were positioned above the windows with (I presume) a lintel against which the picture frame could properly seated. In my property the finlocks are directly over the window frame
    What holds the finlocks up (and the wall above?)? Is there a metal lintel or somesuch?

    A photograph of the wall might help. Reduce the size to 500 KB or less (IIRC) for the site to accept it.
  5.  
    We used Aerogel wall liner
    https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/spacetherm-a1-wall-liner-wl-insulation---600mm-x-1200mm-x-13mm.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0bWvBhBjEiwAtEsoW7YWcYXUbKuUTuRE7tN1nM7p5UVQgrTCsLcigZfZCmGESMDqapQZLxoCc3sQAvD_BwE

    to line some narrow ventilation slits on our barn conversion. IWI so our insulation layer is on the inside with just plasterboard over it, the glazed units are near to the outer edge of the stone walls (about 3" to 4 " setback in a 500mm thick wall). Okay so far, but we do have MVHR so humidity is controlled.

    Would it be worth costing it up? or trying it on one window and see if it resolves the problem?
    I do even have a few offcuts, but probably not enough to do a whole reveal for one window.
    • CommentAuthordarthgarth
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2024
     
    Thanks for the link to the aerogel wall liner Dominic. I will check it out and see what the cost would be. Humidty here is controlled manually - windows and a dehumidifier. I have an abundance of thermopro temp/humidity sensors dotted around the house to keep an eye on things.

    DJH - There is no wall above the finlocks. Just the roof structure. I wish there was as we have the issue of them as a thermal bridge around the top of all the upstairs rooms here. In the Fourwalls example they sit above the ceiling level which is fortunate for them. Luckily the windows get so cold that all condensation in the rooms happens there and not along the interior surface of the finlocks!

    See photo of exterior (I sent to myself on whatsapp to pick up on the laptop and post which compresses the image for me). I have installed a blind above that window (into the interior face of the finlocks) and found no metal lintel - plus the slight sag suggests there is not really much in the way of proper support.

    I guess the right (green) option would be to line the window reveals as best as possible (either aerogel or fancier version of EPS) and keep the current windows as long as possible. Rather than do a half-baked job and and install new windows in a sub-optimal location and waste the potential of combining new windows with an EWI retrofit.
      Back_bedroom_window_ext.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2024
     
    I've never come across Finlocks before but the idea of using them as a lintel above a window strikes me as frightening :shocked: How are the roof & ceiling supported above the window?

    Assuming the structure is OK (not a given, definitely worth checking) I'd be tempted to put some EPS or phenolic insulation in the reveals with some 6 mm board over the top, even if it meant covering some of the glass area. I'm thinking of that as a short term fix, with the insulation bonded to the window frames. The plan for e.g. EWI and replacement of the windows as soon as circumstances permit. And fix the Finlocks at that time.

    But I'm not a retrofit expert so others may have better ideas.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2024
     
    One option might be to install in a traditional manner, setting the new windows in line with the cavity. That was (and still is) often done by inserting a 50x50 timber into the cavity, and then fixing the window to that (or use the metal brackets that come with the uPVC windows, that fix the windows to the internal reveal). The timber insert gives the fire break, required by regs.

    That would leave the external reveal as exposed brick, not alter your window sizes, and have no need to do any alterations to the opening which might cause any timing issues with the window deliveries.

    You could also line the internal reveals with some insulated plasterboard, which starts at around 30mm thick.
    • CommentAuthordarthgarth
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2024
     
    Posted By: djhI've never come across Finlocks before but the idea of using them as a lintel above a window strikes me as frightening. How are the roof & ceiling supported above the window?


    AIUI, the roof and ceiling joists are supported by the finlocks - It's not uncommon in this village and most still have theirs in place (functioning as guttering). Only a handful, including my direct neighbour has had theirs cut off for purposes of preventing moisture ingress/aesthetics. The windows in that property were in replaced before he moved in so there was no remedial support works done during the finlock "removal". Not saying that things cant go wrong...just havent yet!

    Posted By: djhI'd be tempted to put some EPS or phenolic insulation in the reveals with some 6 mm board over the top, even if it meant covering some of the glass area. I'm thinking of that as a short term fix, with the insulation bonded to the window frames. The plan for e.g. EWI and replacement of the windows as soon as circumstances permit. And fix the Finlocks at that time.


    Thanks for the suggestion for the short term fix - something along these lines will have to be done this summer.

    For a longer term supporting solution (and very much thinking out load here) could it feasible to resolve thermal bridging and support the gutters by extending the walls with 2 leaves of foamglass (or other material that has high compressive strength) and place a lintel on each leaf with an insulated cavity at the top of the windows. Having a "proper" lintel on the exterior face would mean the picture frame method of window installing could be used if ever the house was EWI'd. I imagine at this point we would be using an architect rather than dreaming up pie-in-the-sky solutions, however fun they may be!

    (this is my first attempt at quoting...so bear with me if it's a mess)
    • CommentAuthordarthgarth
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2024
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddyOne option might be to install in a traditional manner, setting the new windows in line with the cavity. You could also line the internal reveals with some insulated plasterboard, which starts at around 30mm thick.


    Thanks for the solution GreenPaddy. It's a great practical option to make an improvement without more drastic changes. And I can use it to talk-the-talk when discussing installation options with window fitters!
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2024
     
    Not having previously heard of or come across finlock gutters I goggled it and found this useful description which others might find useful.

    https://www.guttermaintenanceuk.co.uk/what-is-finlock-guttering/#:~:text=A%20Finlock%20gutter%20is%20built%20from%20two%20troughs,cavity.%20This%20cavity%20sits%20on%20the%20internal%20wall.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2024
     
    How about checking out the Finlocks first

    Having read that interesting link thanks to @revor .

    You say there ha been some settlement

    The Finlock blocks were varied in length, typically between 200 and 250 mm. These blocks were connected to one another using steel which was reinforced with mortar and rods. The sealing was then done, and the troughs were lined with a coating of bitumen or any other waterproof material, alternatively the lining was done using a mineral felt


    60 to 70 years leaves plenty of time for rust to attack the bars keeping them in alignment my guess is they were butt joints no mention of them being keyed together.

    It looks like a joint above each corner of the window and another in the center of it

    Good luck keep us posted if you can
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2024
     
    Posted By: bxmanIt looks like a joint above each corner of the window and another in the center of it
    I think there are seven blocks above the window.
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