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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    We found a decent supplier/fabricator of Senior Architectural Systems.

    2 products with differing specs:

    Ali Vu
    https://www.seniorarchitectural.co.uk/architectural-systems/ali-vu-window/
    Standard Casement Opening Outward (not available in T&T)
    Total Project Cost (S&F) = £21,030

    PURe
    https://www.seniorarchitectural.co.uk/architectural-systems/pure-window/
    Tilt & Turn
    Total Project Cost (S&F) = £30,115

    Both are based on 28mm Triple Glazing (4-8-4-8-4), Low 'e', Black Warm Edge Spacer
    Inclusive of aluminium cills - not required as EWI?

    My query is T&T worth an additional ~£10k?

    I am trying to work out what the U-Values are as the spiel states the former as low as 1.0 and the latter 0.71 but I don't know what configuration of glass these are based on as both frames can accommodate up to 44mm

    So my questions are thus;

    1. What is optimum make up of glass so I can get a more accurate spec. The fabricator said the glass cost wont make much difference to the price
    2. Anything else to ask at this point?

    Thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2025 edited
     
    I doubt that 4-8-4-8-4 could give 1.0 let alone .71, unless some exceptionally fancy glass coatings. Or unless they're quoting glass-only U, rather than whole-window U. Or even worse, quoting glass pane-centre U rather than whole glass incl the edge spacers. I'd guess 1.4 whole-window (i.e. bare BldgRegs compliance), as it's Al not timber. Exceptionally good value Russell timber 4-12-4-12-4 gives 'typical' 1.1 whole-window, and in more expensive 4-16-4-16-4 so-called 'PH-standard' form, better than that and can be T&T; both are available Al faced externally.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2025 edited
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoBoth are based on 28mm Triple Glazing (4-8-4-8-4), Low 'e', Black Warm Edge Spacer
    Inclusive of aluminium cills - not required as EWI?
    You still require sills with EWI, unless you know something I don't?

    4-8-4-8-4 seems quite narrow gaps? The optimum glass spacing depends on the gas fill. IIRC it's 16 mm for argon and 12 mm for [more expensive] krypton fill.

    Posted By: VictorianecoMy query is T&T worth an additional ~£10k?
    The two types of windows have different U-values, so you're not comparing like-for-like. IOW your question isn't sensible.

    In terms of glazing, you need to consider toughened vs laminated and soft coatings etc. Pilkingtons or Saint-Gobain have loads of information.
  2.  
    Russell not interested in my project unfortunately

    The quote form link above:

    "High performance polyamide thermal barrier giving U-Values as low as 1.0 W/m2K when calculated as a domestic CEN Standard window"

    Elsewhere I found:

    "Very important is how window sizes affect U-Values. Simulations to establish U-Values are typically calculated using a standard window size of 1.23 m x 1.48 m. This is called the CEN standard developed by the European Committee for Standardisation (CEN)."
    https://www.doorandwindowexperts.co.uk/47854/the-ultimate-guide-to-window-u-values/
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2025 edited
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoRussell not interested
    Ah, I remember you said that - they need the buyer to v fully specify all their options (which aren't concisely described, so I don't know how I or anyone came to learn them!).
    Posted By: Victorianecogiving U-Values as low as 1.0 W/m2K
    Sounds like they're talking about glass-only U - albeit the whole unit not just centre-pane.
    Last para is correct. Larger windows should give better U-value, having proportionately more of the centre-pane.

    if 3g is only 4-8-4-8-4 gaps, prob 2g 4-16-4 wd be as good or better, and less embodied carbon.
  3.  
    Spoke to supplier - they are adamant that the 28mm is their standard but will check with their glass supplier

    What should I really aim to be specifying? Or aiming for?

    Thanks
  4.  
    **What should I really aim to be specifying? Or aiming for?**

    Minimum 4/16/4/16/4, 2 soft-coat Low E coatings, argon and warm-edge spacers. Mine from Green Bldg Store (now 21 Degrees) are 14/18/4/18/4/2 x soft-coat, low E glass, W/E spacers and argon. 0.8 whole unit U value (incl frame).
  5.  
    The SMART supplier local to me will only do the SMART 400 in a 36mm 3G setup

    What about this supplier:
    https://cwgchoices.com/choices-range/windows/alu-clad/tilt-and-turn/

    Appears to be the same windows as ALLAN Brothers - or the pictures look the same at least from their website.

    Thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2025
     
    Do you mean they insist on 3G, or it has to be 400 if you want 3G?
  6.  
    The range in looking at is the 400, but they said the glass they would provide if I wanted 3G would be the 36mm as they don't do any other...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2025
     
    So 36 aka 4-12-4-12-4 i.e. 12 gaps not the optimum 16, unless using expensive fill gas other than Argon. Prob 4-16-4 2G would be just or almost as good.
  7.  
    Okay, any recommended glass suppliers or fabricators of SMART who could do supply only?

    I've seen them in person in a showroom and I think this system suits the property not being too thick frames like aluclad and I really don't think spending an extra £10k for slightly better U values adds merit in terms of cost v benefit
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2025
     
    There's millions of em - I'd ask Smart themselves to recommend one or two alternatives. Better check their hardware, handles etc, and how it feels to open/close - fundamentally a lo-cost system (but works fine). To get better than U1.4 (BldgRegs minimum) will require fancy glass specifications.

    I like the adaptation of the standard range (well-chosen selection of components and some extra sections) that allows them to call it their Heritage range - a fair imitation of traditional (1920s-1950s) Crittall galvanised steel windows, but with some insulation (1.4) vs basically none. But to actually get the slim-sightline look, some careful choices about the numerous alternative sections (e.g. bevelled vs square glazing beads, and more) need to be made - or checking and re-checking the fabricator 'gets' the kind of look you want.
  8.  
    They have come back with 3 options:

    4-20-4 Argon fill
    4-12-4-12-4 Argon fill
    3/3-18-4 Argon fill

    Not got prices for each option but I'm really thinking of going down the self order route. Can't be that difficult to install frames into a non existent outer skin? Plenty of YouTube videos about
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 26th 2025 edited
     
    Those 2G specs are non-optimum for Argon 2G. In other words, for same manufacturer's material costs, you cd get better performance, if optimised. Likewise, the 3G spec is non-optimum for Argon 3G.
    Tho as we know the price they quote may have little to do with material costs, more to do with volume at that spec, and premium-pricing for e.g. 'Passive House grade'.
    20 or 18 is too wide for cheap-default Argon - 16 is optimum.
    That 3G spec will be a little bit better than any Argon 2G, tho 12 is below optimum for Argon; it could perform quite a lot better with a more expensive gas fill, which is not only better-insulating but for which 12 is optimum. With Argon fill, 16 gap is optimum.
    3/3 sounds like laminated glass - why would you? Some of your windows may need 'safety glass' (BldgRegs gives the rules) but usually 4mm toughened is used rather than 6mm laminated.
    Any 3G, any exotic gas fill, and any aluminium frame, is going to have significantly higher embodied carbon than 2G, Argon filled, in a timber frame. Embodied carbon (i.e. carbon emissions created in mining, manufacturing, transporting and constructing) is now recognised as just as important, if not more so, than in-use creation of carbon emissions.

    By self-order, do you mean you install yourself, or your builder does it, rather than seeking a supply-and-install quote? I'd be surprised if any supply-and-install co has any idea how to install outboard, ready for EWI; they might slap on a massive extra charge when they get to site and realise what you intend, and you'll have to know exactly how you want it done.
  9.  
    Chat got suggests 20mm argon fill is about optimum fit 2G, unless you go for vacuum or Krypton then you can go narrower.

    Maybe I should revisit Russel and see if they are interested now we are ready to proceed on at least 5 windows and a pair of sliding doors.

    Do you happen to have the dimensions of their alu-clad range? I'm particularly interested in knowing the power frame widths and what the vertical weights would be between a fixed unit and an opener.

    My windows are very basic as 5 are all the same size, 3 with the opening sash on left hand side and 2 with sash on right hand side.

    I'd even be tempted to get supply only and get the glass locally, we have very good terms with a local glass firm.

    Do they do unglazed? Anything else I should be thinking of to ask Monday?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 26th 2025 edited
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoChat got suggests 20mm argon fill is about optimum fit 2G, unless you go for vacuum or Krypton then you can go narrower.
    Presuming you mean chatgpt then I think it's basing its "opinion" on American standards that are not relevant in the UK. So here, 16 mm is optimum, 20 mm is not too bad and 12 mm is to be avoided!

    My windows are very basic as 5 are all the same size, 3 with the opening sash on left hand side and 2 with sash on right hand side.
    Be sure to double or triple check whether the "left" and "right" are stated with a view from outside or inside.

    I'd even be tempted to get tinder only and get the glass locally, we have very good terms with a local glass firm.
    "tinder"? Good units are supplied glazed.
  10.  
    Ah okay, so 16mm is better than 20mm?

    So a 4-16-4 would be better than a 4-20-4? Seems counter, intuitive.

    Was meant to say supply only....
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 26th 2025
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoSo a 4-16-4 would be better than a 4-20-4? Seems counter, intuitive.
    As the gap gets wider, convection currents become more possible making the performance worse. At the lower temperature used in American standards, convection is less likely, I believe.
  11.  
    Okay so basically I need to be asking for either a 4-16-4 2G or a 4-16-4-16 3G option?

    Argon fill, Low E coating

    I would like a bit extra sound deadening if possible as we live in an exposed area and the wind can become loud particularly in the Winter months!

    I'll make some calls today and see what I can get sorted

    Thanks all
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2025
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoI would like a bit extra sound deadening if possible as we live in an exposed area and the wind can become loud particularly in the Winter months!
    Triple glazing, without trickle vents and with good air-sealing (i.e. PH) is quite quiet. I once visited Utrecht radio station, which is at a busy roundabout, and they had 10-glazing to reduce noise! Recording studios don't have windows, in general.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2025
     
    I'm assuming that you possibly mentioned sound deadening to your Supplier, which may be why they specified 3/3-18-4 as an option. Laminated glass is generally considered better at sound attenuation.
  12.  
    No, hadn't mentioned it in all honest...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2025 edited
     
    Posted By: djhTriple glazing, without trickle vents and with good air-sealing (i.e. PH) is quite quiet
    So that's only partly about the glass, more I'd say about the frame's air-sealing, and I'd add, any extrusion cavities and/or holes that are open to outside, which can (usually do) have a wind-speed/direction at which they resonate like an organ pipe or whistle. Hard to be sure about all that in advance, but timber windows aren't at such risk, unless they have external aluminium facings.
  13.  
    Would you use timber windows in this day and age? On an exposed sea front?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2025 edited
     
    Might be a better bet than some metals, in a highly corrosive atmosphere. Timber doesn't mind salt, so I'm not sure if I understand why people add potentially corrodible aluminium facings. Shouldn't be any wetter and anyway wetness is no problem to timber providing it can dry out soon. North European joinery softwood is marvellous stuff, unlike the dogends they can sell to UK, and each section consists of laminated thicknesses to equalise any tendency to curl. The 'paint' used isn't 'paint' but pigmented penetrating stain which has long life and can readily be refinished with more of the same, unlike plastic or metal windows. And it's a whole lot cheaper.
  14.  
    Indigo 7 quoted me for the Vrogum timber windows in a 5-8-4-8-5 for the fixed sash and a 4-12-4-12-4 for the opener

    So I guess that isn't optimal either then
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2025 edited
     
    Vrogum - excellent make, and Indigo7 - excellent one-man firm, since the present guy, a small developer who had an arrangement to import them direct for his projects, took over from the main UK importer, whose prices were prohibitive. Now they're about 1.5x Russell's price, but Russell are extraordinary cheap, so Indigo7 are otherwise competitive.

    I use Russell for 'modern' applications, and accept the premium for Vrogum when it's an older window-style to be matched, as Vrogum are unique in the trade in making their opening sashes glaze-in, while everyone else does glaze-out - as Vrogum do also for their fixed lights. Vrogum's glaze-in sashes present a slim 45o bevel to the outside, which looks pretty much like the putty-line of a traditional cottage window or a posher Georgian/Victorian/till-1920s classic hinged or sliding sash window. To achieve that look, all openings have to have a sash inserted, whether hinged or fixed, as their direct-glazed lights don't look like that. There are other options/features that must also be specified, to make the 'look' work.

    Anyway, none of that is relevant to Victorianeco's project, which is 'modern'. Just to say 'yes' to Vrogum.

    Also to say that despite previous alerts about 16 being optimum gap, I generally do settle for 12 gap 3G, both with Russell's super-value range (they charge premium for basically the same window but 'PH grade' with 16 gap and double seals) and with Vrogum (with all-opening lights - I have no need of their fixed lights with 8 gap). Even with 12 gap 3G, at U1.1 they beat any aluminium window at U1.4 unless you spend more on exotic fill gas. Alternative to 12 gap 3G, 16 gap 2G is prob almost as good, so I'll be doing that in future, for minimised embodied carbon.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2025
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoIndigo 7 quoted me for the Vrogum timber windows in a 5-8-4-8-5 for the fixed sash and a 4-12-4-12-4 for the opener
    AIUI, Vrogum's standard glazing has 16 mm gaps,so why the very narrow gaps? Did you ask for something very slim overall or something?
  15.  
    No - I just touched based with the guy (very helpful) from Indigo
   
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