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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorD Cooke
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2026
     
    I'm planning an in to out 'warm' wall build up as follows - all outboard of a structural oak frame.

    Plasterboard and skim
    125 x 50mm stud at 400 centres (vented air gap)
    15mm OSB3 taped joints (functioning as a VCL amongst other jobs). Could apply another VCL over this OSB if needed/use smartply if we have to!
    120mm PIR
    50mm Counter batten (vented air gap)
    Breather membrane
    Wood cladding

    The aim here is to avoid the inevitable breaks and gaps that occur when an internally applied VCL is installed around a structural oak frame. I also like the idea of a VCL that retards but doesn't 'trap'. The design idea also allows for an unbroken insulation layer that fully wraps the structure without thermal breaks (other than counter batten screws)
    Ubakus tells me the condensation risk is zero. Does anyone have any thoughts? I can apply a stand alone VCL over the OSB if needed.

    Thanks for any thoughts!
    :bigsmile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2026
     
    Is approx my standard build-up, based on WUFI comparative studies some years ago, using Brussels weather file that's prob good for southernish England. It worked considerably better, vapour/interstitial condensation-wise, than using a vapour barrier, even an expensive 'intelligent' one. It's all about unimpeded re-drying ability.

    Building Inspectors have accepted it without question, but there seems to be a new breed of outsourced BldgRegs plan-checking service, which don't do any common-sense decisions, just everything by the book. After presenting the resultant charts that I kept, I've been asked for fresh WUFI calcs, must be presented exactly like a 'qualified environmental engineer' would do it incl the chapter-and-verse listing of all relevant BRegs clauses which 'independent consultants' do to bulk up their 1-page report into something they can charge high-£100s for. In other words, this is a non-standard construction that you won't find any authoritative certification for - so, excellent as it is, it has to be proved afresh.

    Differences from my recipe -
    - definitely no 'vented air gap' in the stud area. The 100 stud void blown full of Warmcel - could be other breatheable insulation, like quilt.
    - 11 OSB3 gapfiling glued and screwed/power nailed incl to noggins at unsupported edges. That's fairly airtight, no need for taped joints.
    - 150 EPS glued to the OSB. PIR is not breatheable, will 'trap' as you say, regardless of 'not trapping' by VCL (or no VCL).
    - the rest - counterbattening, vented cavity, cladding - is fine.

    Other comments -
    - the inboard pbd & skim doesn't need to be airtight or vapour tight, can be punctured at will by electrician etc.
    - there's no virtue in vapour 'retardation' - best it breathes fully. The OSB3 has slight vapour resistance, as does the EPS, nothing to make a difference either way.
    - OSB3, blown-in Warmcel are both fairly airtight, together adequately airtight, in a robust way not too sensitive to accidental/later puncturing.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2026
     
    I presume that when you say: "all outboard of a structural oak frame" you mean completely clear of the frame. The plasterboard and skim continue behind the oak frame?

    Otherwise tend to agree with Tom.
    • CommentAuthorD Cooke
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2026
     
    Thanks Tom,
    The 'vented air gaps' exist simply as a result of building a 400 centre stud wall but will function nicely as a utility void - I decided it would also be a good idea to vent them - on reflection I doubt it's doable and I guess not needed.
    I could insulate between studs but the 120mm PIR reaches my wall target without need for addition (and creates the right wall thickness to sit the external cladding just past the edge of the brick plinth below)
    Does the use of PIR seem sensible to you? I could also offer additional insulation between studs as an option.
    I understand that EPS breathes a little, unlike PIR and would like to try it on the next project as you've described - but could the carefully taped, unbroken layer of PIR over OSB3 cause any problems that I'm not aware of?
    If under certain conditions a dew point existed inside the PIR thickness (which is closed cell) would it matter?
    • CommentAuthorD Cooke
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2026
     
    @ djh,
    An 18mm packer over posts, principle rafters and purlins, then stud/rafter and so on.
    18mm allows for 12.5mm plasterboard plus skim. Plasterboard tucks behind oak with enough gap to get a trowel in.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2026
     
    wondering why the studs frame is 125mm and why 400mm centres? Is it also load bearing in addition to the structural oak frame?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2026
     
    If the studs were 100 mm instead then there might be room for Tom's 150 mm of EPS instead of 120 mm PIR.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2026
     
    Yeah, but it's OK - if 125 studs filled with blown-in Warmcel, then 125 EPS - as long as it adds up to 250 (magic number)
    • CommentAuthorD Cooke
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2026
     
    @GreenPaddy
    Yes structural (hybrid oak and softwood). However the 125 is also set so it overhangs the face of the blockwork below (brick/block plinth below softwood) by 25mm, creating a 25mm utility void over surface of plinth.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2026
     
    As I said elsewhere I used Icynene (an open cell foam). Slightly different buildup as it was a light steel frame, 150mm PIR outboard of the frame then the Icynene blown in. The WUFI I had done showed the dew point was in the middle of the PIR so no bother with it not breathing. I hit the magic 250mm :bigsmile:

    I'd put smaller studs and more outboard insulation, plus some in the frame.

    Just to note, getting PB behind the Oak is a PITA.
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