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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi Everyone,

    Newbie here. First post. It is a big one, so I very much appreciate any advice given in advance. Thank you.

    I live in Oxford and I have commissioned an architect to transform our 3 bed 1929 semi into a 4 bed EnerPhit home. Overall the house will end up at around 160m2. The architects have done many retrofits to EnerPhit standard.
    The house is in a flood plain, with an immediate drop at the back of the house of 1.5m down to land that regularly floods. Side access is narrow. For this reason I would prefer not to have an external ASHP unit.

    We have been back and forth on how to ventilate and heat the house, and supply hot water.
    We have had multiple quotes but all seem alarmingly expensive.
    Total Home Environment want £37K to design, supply at Pichler PKOM4 all in one unit, install and commision. VAT free but no BUS grant.
    Williams Energy Design want £14 to design, supply a Zehnder ComfoAir Q600, install and commision. VAT payable but no heating / cooling or hotwater. To add the Comfoclime unit is an additional £6K plus VAT (but my understanding is that if an ASHP is attached then it can be zero rated). But still no hot water or cylinder, and would also need to additional heating through electric towel radiators and/or IR panels. The architect says Rod Williams is particularly good at the design so that there is no unnecessary boxing of ductwork.
    Energy My Way want £26K for MVHR and separate external ASHP, hot water cylinder with a small amount of UFH and towel radiators. No VAT, and this has already taken into account BUS grant.
    Heat Space and Light were cheaper but do not install and could not give me the name of a reliable installer in the Oxford area.
    All of the above will also be subject to main contractor builder's 10% overhead and profit charge.

    The first question is about approach. How would you knowledgeable guys go about heating and ventilating the place?

    Secondly, it is feeling very, very expensive compared to the indicative prices I see online, but maybe I am missing something.
    I am a competent DIYer, but I feel this might be too big a job, and as it is instrumental to meeting Enerphit and having a comfortable home it is not something I want to get wrong.

    Am I being over-changed? Is there an architect's premium? Does anyone have any advice, or details of a reliable Passivhaus MVHR that covers Oxfordshire.

    So many thanks in advance.

    Tony
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2026
     
    First off, welcome to the forum.

    The Passivhaus criterion of 10 W/m² heating load (15 kWh/m²a) is set as about the maximum that can be supplied using ventilation air, and the EnerPHit criterion is 1.66 times more. So I suspect you can't heat your house using just ventilation air. Talk to your architect or a PH consultant such as WARM about the specifics of your project. Rod Williams' Mango Projects also look capable.

    The prices you quote do sound expensive, but maybe I'm out of touch.

    I suspect that an ASHP plus underfloor heating is likely to prove the best solution, so I'd suggest exploring the best way to mount the external unit above any likely flood level. Wall mounting might be possible, or some frame buried in the earth to give the necessary height.

    Other people on here know a lot more than I do about ASHP's so I'll leave any further comments to them.

    You'll still need an MVHR and I suspect that the heating is best kept separate from the MVHR (although you might want to use an ASHP-powered fan coil as a post-heater in the MVHR as part of the heating system). There are some well-known PH-certified brands. I've been happy with our Brink unit, FWIW. How many people is your house designed to accomodate? That and Building Regs will likely determine the size of MVHR you need. I installed all the semi-rigid ducting for ours and most of the rest of the system. It's very easy.
  2.  
    BPC Ventilation will design the layout for you based on your plans. Fitting is easy, it’s not rocket science. Especially if you are a competent DiYer. I am an incompetent DiYer and I managed it. Hired an anemometer and commissioned it myself as well. You can do this!
  3.  
    What about a Ground Source Heat Pump for your heating and hot water? It can go straight down in a borehole if you don’t have the land area. Kensa are very helpful and you would likely get the BUS
  4.  
    Sorry don't know your heating load, but guessing Enerphit would be 2.5kW on the design coldest day, so 1-1.5kW most days of the winter?

    That's great and less than most homes so normal rules don't apply!


    The annual heating load would be about 4000kWh so a heatpump would save maybe 2/3 of that.
    Assuming you are fitting some PV and use an offpeak tariff then your electric cost would be maybe 10-15p/kWh, so £4-500/y for direct electric heaters, or save £250-300/y by using a heatpump.

    There are no air-water heatpumps suitable for such low demand, smallest is about 5kW. But the savings are not going to amount to much over its lifetime, especially if the upfront costs of underfloor pipes etc are being added to a mortgage and costing interest. Not worth spending 10s of £k on.


    Overall you might be better starting with minimal direct electric heating, perhaps a few panel heaters and towel rails and mats under any tiled flooring . Tweak this once you've lived in it and know better what the consumption is. You could consider an air-air heatpump in the living area, get a local air con fitter to quote?



    Hot water, hard to beat a cylinder with an immersion on offpeak tariff or PV, your plumber can fit if you're not going for air-water heatpump for heating.

    For ventilation, what others said, or also look at push-pull through-the-wall units which might be easier to fit than threading ducts though the existing joints.


    Many PV installs these days have a battery to maximise export tariff, but also might help collect offpeak import for use in the winter.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2026 edited
     
    To follow up on WiA's post, we use direct electric heating for the reasons he explained. In our case we have an electric post heater on the MVHR (a VEAB MQEM) that does most of the work and has been reliable for ten years so far. Then I've used a couple of Steibel-Eltron radiant bar heaters to supplement, and they lasted pretty well. Stuff off Amazon tends to break, I've found.

    In our PH, that means we can turn the heating on only during the night-time E7 period and the house stays warm through the day. Our house behaves pretty much as PHPP predicts.

    For water heating we have a 4 kWp PV system and a diverter that does everything during the sunniest 8-9 months but has done next to nothing this January, for example. We use a mains-powered immersion at night when the PV doesn't do the job, which does the job for the two of us. You'd need to work out costs for however many people you have.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2026
     
    On costs, you're in a very affluent area so prices you see "online" need to be related to jobs in your area. The same pack of work in less affluent areas is likely to be way cheaper.

    If you use an ASHP and set it on a small plinth level with the interior FFL a flooded £4k HP will be the least of your worries!!

    If you're having any tiled areas then definitely go for underfloor heating, electric or wet, but definitely have it:)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2026 edited
     
    Generally as others have said - if it's going to truly hit EnerPhit targets, one of the main benefits, and cost-justifications, is that you can just about say that it won't need either the complication or the cost of a heating system, to speak of (a much clearer decision if it were a full PH). Or one that's only called upon, in a small way, on worst-case winter days, so can can the simplest/cheapest possible, even though it'll cost more to run for those few occasions. Glad you're not thinking of a filfthy woodburner for that, and a heat pump would be the very last thing.

    However, DHW (hot tap water) remains as now your prime, substantial heating cost. This is one surprising area where a heat pump can score, as running cost on offpeak elect will be at least twice as high as doing it by heat pump. I don't know why there aren't low-cost packages, HP + PV, by now.

    About TiO's quotes, I'm curious why some attract VAT, some don't, and by no BUS on the first one?

    Heat Space and Light' got my attention, as it's not only almost same as my 'trademark' (click on 'fostertom' above), but also a design-only service, which to my surprise I find, for a price for time taken and data gathered to tightly optimise, can well beat the SCOP projections of incumbents' customary/commercial offerings, very significant to running cost over a lifetime. However, part of that has to be to facilitate an installer to ratify, adopt and guarantee the design-only scheme and quote for same. Also, HS&L seem to focus mainly on MHVR, only incidentally on heat pumps.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2026
     
    Just had a quick look at the Heat Space and Light website and what they say about costs seems sensible. They also seem to have a reasonable approach to brands and DIY.
  5.  
    Hi Everyone,

    Many thanks for the welcome, and to all of you for your helpful comments and suggestions.
    I'll take all of this to the architect and see if we can sort out something.

    Good to know that my instincts for the prices being too appear to be correct although I may not be comparing apples with apples. Also good to know that air-to-water heat pump is probably overkill for EnerPhit house.
    I like the look of the VEAB MQEM as a compact heater. It might be that it could supplement a Zehnder Comfoclime. Anyone had any experience of combining inline ASHP and a heating coil?

    Many thanks too for the encouragement for self fitting. I might speak to the builder about them holding my hand. Although I think I have to pay VAT on the rest of the process if an supplier and installer does not do the whole thing - unless my reading of the regs is wrong.

    In terms of hotwater, I was thinking about a ducted ASHP HW cylinder. Anyone had any experience with https://www.modernheat.co.uk/product/aquathermica-260-heat-pump/ or similar?

    @philedge Supposedly Oxfordshire is affluent, but doesn't feel that way if you work in the NHS and are not a doctor! Also flooded in 2007 so know that a replacement ASHP would not be the most distressing thing. We actually installed wet UFH after the flood in our last house so I know how toasty it can feel, so decent advice on having warm tiles. Thanks.

    Thanks again everyone.

    Best wishes,

    Tony
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2026 edited
     
    My $0.02 worth.

    I have a Komfovent MVHR system - really happy with it - I can access it via MODBUS and control it with HomeAssistant. I fitted it myself - my only caution is I suggest getting it commissioned properly to balance the system.

    The post heater works well, but I would not rely on it for heating, it simply means the air supplied to the house (after the HR has done it's job) isn't colder than the supply setpoint.

    The Komfovent unit does that well varying the power in fairly small steps.

    Perhaps consider investing more in batteries charged off peak or with associated PV and using direct heating.

    It also depends on your level of comfort. Ours is at a fairly high temperature compared to friends and family :smile:. The calculations tell you one thing, but actually using tends to be a different story

    Final thought is a split A2A HP. I would be inclined to fit this in at retrofit time in preference to doing it later. Things like the condensate pipe can be a pest to retrofit! You also get the advantage of cooling if you need it.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 16th 2026
     
    Posted By: borpinThe post heater works well, but I would not rely on it for heating, it simply means the air supplied to the house (after the HR has done it's job) isn't colder than the supply setpoint.
    I don't remember the details of your system but as you know we use our post heater as the main heating for our house. The power limit is set by the max temperature setting for the air, to avoid the burning smell from dust in the air if it gets too hot. The limit is supposedly 50°C and I have ours set at 45°C, so it puts out about 1.8 kW which is more than enough for our house.

    I'd second the thought of considering a split A2A unit, and the notion of fitting it while doing the retrofit.
    • CommentAuthorArtiglio
    • CommentTimeFeb 19th 2026
     
    I used BPC for my place, which has two systems as there was no practical way of linking it all into one. Bpc were very generous with their allowance for the semi rigid ducting ( and i did’nt check) so ended up with 3 coils left over. Also in their quotes you’ll find lots of bits and pieces (125mm ducting and fittings, insulation and fixing strap etc) are considerably cheaper locally. Plus you only end up picking up the bits you actually need rather than bpc’s best estimate from your drawings.
    Installing it really quite simple, an extra pair of hands will save plenty of time when feeding the ductwork through ( assuming you go with the semi rigid)
    Currently doing another on a bungalow renovation for a family member. This i’ve planned myself , will use lots of bits left over from my place, additional bits ordered from bpc where sensible.
    Really quite satisfying job to do.
  6.  
    I second that. A full roll of the semi rigid left over and a few other bits and pieces, 10m box of Insulated flexible ducting off which I have used only about 2m.
    I will do the same, use these up on the current project and order more carefully the other parts.
    Better to have everything you need though when you’re in a rush, rather than have to order extra stuff and pay extra carriage.
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