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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Posted By: Mike1Yes, that's the limit for the house as a whole - but based on climate data that is rapidly becoming obsolete. Better to use future climate data instead - see https://colbe.bath.ac.uk/.


    I don't disagree, but once you have that data you can also test this in the Passivhaus PHPP model.

    There is a built-in 'Stress Test' for summer overheating that lets you turn off certain measures like night purge, to assess the implications for overnight heatwaves like the one we had recently. You can also adjust the peak temperatures used in the (localised) climate file to add an extra few degrees above the present-day model.
  2.  
    Posted By: djhYes, if you can stop the sun reaching the wall (or at least reduce it), it will help. The insulation in the walls also helps to reduce the internal warming and delays it (how much depends on the type of insulation) - so-called decrement delay.

    On Wednesday, 29 July 2026 there was what the Met Office in the UK now calls a "heat spike". My IR thermometer (Bosch AdvancedTemp) arrived on the same morning. I took hourly readings of the south facing brickwork in direct sunlight (Sun), in the shade of the open porch (Shade) and on the inside of the first floor bedroom wall (Bedroom).

    Time Sun Shade Bedroom
    ---- --- ----- -------
    11.00 44.3 29.4 25.9
    12:00 46.9 31.0 26.5
    13:00 50.7 33.8 27.5
    14:00 50.4 36.2 27.8
    15:00 50.9 37.8 28.2
    16:00 48.3 38.9 28.4
    17:00 43.0 38.1 28.5
    18:00 41.5 37.2 28.4
    19:00 38.4 36.2 29.0
    20:00 34.8 33.5 28.9
    21:00 31.9 31.8 28.9
    22:00 30.1 30.1 29.3
    23:00 29.3
    24:00 29.2

    09:00 31.4 25.4 27.7
    10:00 37.2 26.6 27.4


    It is a cavity wall, constructed in 1996, with Cambridge "white" bricks on the outside, cavity with rockwool insulation, blockwork inside and plasterboard (attached with dabs?).

    I used purge ventilation overnight (tilt and turn windows on full tilt, Velux window open).

    The bedroom wall shows a delay in heating and doesn't recover overnight. The air temperature in the bedroom was somewhat lower, probably due to a fan mixing air from the rest of the house.

    Luckily it was just a one day heat spike. Several days of cooler weather and purge ventilation brought the bedroom wall temperature down to 24.9 today.

    Looks like there will be another heat spike tomorrow.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime6 days ago edited
     
    4th August edit: See my additional post today - this chart is probably too pessimistic...
    ===============================================================================

    Posted By: john.connettI took hourly readings
    For comparison, I did the same last week - a rare period when I didn't have the MVHR switched off during the day. These show temperature & RH of the :

    - External air, near-ish to the MVHR air intake
    - Bedroom air
    - Bedroom MVHR ceiling vent (the air being cooled at the MVHR by the previously mentioned cooler)

    The MVHR manifold & short pipe leading to it aren't yet insulated; when they are the MVHR vent temperature should drop a bit more. I took theses MVHR readings at 15:00 on the 29th:
    - Intake air = 36°C (36.4°C on my external sensor)
    - Exhaust air = 32°C
    - Extract air (cooled by the cooler) = 23°C
    - Supply air = 24°C (warmed to 26.4°C by the time it reached the ceiling vent)

    Some notes:
    - The 'bedroom' is actually an all-purpose studio while the works are ongoing, so I was working in it most days, which would have increased the temperature.
    - The windows were open elsewhere in the apartment from very early morning until breakfast.
    - When the windows were closed the MVHR was boosted to well over 1ACH.
    - The entrance 'air lock' is outside the insulated zone but, since there's no door yet between it and the rest of the apartment, there's more heat coming in that way than there will be long-term.
      July late heatwave_a.png
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime5 days ago
     
    I see that my upload got shrunk. Here's the full version - download & remove the .txt from the end of the file name.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime5 days ago edited
     
    Looking at the above chart, the 30th and the 31st - the 2 days after the peak of the heatwave - are interesting; despite the external air being cooler, the inside temperature was higher both days.

    The explanation seems to be that the external RH was higher on those days, which pushed up the internal RH, which meant that the cooler couldn't cool (evaporate) as much before triggering the cooler's maximum 80% RH. I'll have a think about upping the setting, but condensation & mould risk need to be avoided.

    The same seems to have occurred on the 26th & 27th.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    I've an important update & cautionary tale to add to the chart I posted above!

    A couple of hours ago I tried to insert my 'heatwave data' into a version of the predictive model I posted here some months ago; it was nowhere close - not unless I seriously lowered the airflow. So I pulled out my Testo and measured it - result around 50m³/hour. Then replaced the filters (pic below) and measured again - 135m³/hr.

    I imagine that the chart above therefore shows a pessimistic picture of the effectiveness of the cooler, though I wouldn't expect it to have shown a massive temperature decrease. That said, in the 20 half hour since I switched the MVHR back on, the ceiling vent temperature has dropped by >0.5°C from the pre-switch-off temperature and is continuing to slowly fall.

    No doubt another heatwave will be along before too long; I'll try to repeat the experiment again.

    Note to self: Check filters before a heatwave!
      Filters.png
  3.  
    blocked filters...

    much more important than for heatwave situations is that a blocked filter would put the supply and extract out of balance, and so in winter may well cause A LOT of cooling in the house. eg, if the filter on the extract side is more blocked than the filter on the intake side, more fresh air will come in than stale air going out, so the fresh air will not receive it's scavanged heat energy.

    I manually adjust my fan speeds in winter to return the balance, but I'm familiar with installing/commissioning. The constant volume units ofcourse maintain this balance, and so no need for intervention, but then they are more expensive. In truth, I suspect MVHR's should all be constant volume, as it's very likely filters will block, maintenance won't get done, and so unheated fresh air will be supplied, cooling houses in winter.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime3 days ago
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddyeg, if the filter on the extract side is more blocked than the filter on the intake side, more fresh air will come in than stale air going out
    Serious MVHR units are as you say what is called "constant volume"; that means that they automatically adjust the fan speeds to deliver the stated rate of air flow irrespective of the varying resistance. The most important reason for that feature is to deal with the ever-varying wind speed, but it also deals with filter resistance. Nothing excuses poor maintenance of course.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    BTW, here's a picture I just found showing the concentration of ducts approaching the distribution boxes. Just for interest.
      mvhr-ducts.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    and compelling recommendation for proprietary joisting, either this or MDF-web beams which can have holes cut.
    Or compelling recommendation for decentralised MVHR https://www.fresh-r.com/en (are they still going?) meaning not the cheapo one-room units
  4.  
    Also to emphasise that cold winter ventilation air carries in a lot less humidity than warm summer air, so is much more effective, so the MHRV flow rate should be much less in winter than in summer.

    Our cheap units don't have humidistats so have to be manually turned up in summer (or open the windows when it's not too hot)
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    Posted By: djhSerious MVHR units are as you say what is called "constant volume"; that means that they automatically adjust the fan speeds to deliver the stated rate of air flow irrespective of the varying resistance. The most important reason for that feature is to deal with the ever-varying wind speed, but it also deals with filter resistance. Nothing excuses poor maintenance of course.
    My unit has constant volume motors, but I guess they maxed out on boost.

    Unfortunately a new coffee shop has opened and they've repurposed the chimney as a discharge for the grinding mill. Although higher up, in some wind conditions the dust plume heads right towards my air intake, less than 10m away; I'm trying to get the local authority to take an interest. In the meantime I evidently need to up the checks / filter changes.
      coffee.png
  5.  
    I attended the recent Building Test Solutions webinar "Too Hot to Ignore: Understanding and tackling overheating in buildings" presented by Ben Roberts of Loughborough University. Now available on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSJE7QwN_9Q).

    Some interesting information from their twin test houses where different approaches can be directly compared on two semi-detached, 1930s(?) houses with synthetic occupants.

    Impressive results with various types of external shading (but not including brise soleil). The shading seemed to be mainly to reduce solar gain through the windows although some areas of brickwork were also shaded. In one example there was a maximum operative temperature difference of 6.3°C between the shaded and unshaded living rooms.

    It was not clear whether external shading would be permitted development or not. The two test houses are in a conservation area and have not (yet?) had planning problems. However, the shading installations have been temporary. I'm not sure permanent shading like brise soleil would be permitted on my house even though it is not in a conservation area. The south side front faces onto the street so is more likely to receive objections than if it were hidden at the back. I intend to investigate further.

    Also, some interesting results from dynamic thermal models. Often the models predicted worse overheating than was actually measured. Different models, and modellers, produced different predictions. The models used were commercial and proprietary. They haven't tried the Passive House Planning Package (PHPP). It would be interesting to know if they have tried the open-source Home Energy Model (HEM) (https://home-energy-model.co.uk/).
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTime1 day ago edited
     
    Brilliant, very timely. Much to re-watch there, relevant to what my clients are suddenly asking advice on, doubtless exponentially more future year by year.

    Perhaps most telling, hard to believe, they haven't talked to PH Trust at all! Therefore prob not AECB etc either.

    Big omission is any mention/awareness (apart from passing, little-understood mention of traditional brise soleil) is 'geometric', angular-selective interception of solar rays (which leaves harmless angles unobstructed), distinct from complete solid blocking which is their main line of enquiry.
    Similarly missing is complete partial blocking by semi-translucent material, and complete wavelength-selective interception.

    Appreciating their thorough (tho not all that rigorous) scientific style, I kinda feel that I've learned a wider in-principle (and approx scale-of values) understanding of the numerous solutions out there, in a couple of weeks from a near standing start, via internet + Chat GPT mainly, than they're displaying!
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime1 day ago edited
     
    Posted By: john.connettI attended the recent Building Test Solutions webinar "Too Hot to Ignore: Understanding and tackling overheating in buildings" presented by Ben Roberts of Loughborough University. Now available on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSJE7QwN_9Q).

    Thanks - I've just had a listen and it's an interesting methodology. I've not looked through it yet, but Ben's (the presenter's) thesis which, from the title, looks to be the basis for the webinar, is available at https://repository.lboro.ac.uk/articles/thesis/Ventilation_and_shading_to_reduce_overheating_in_UK_homes_an_evaluation_using_matched_pair_test_houses_with_synthetic_occupants/13281293
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTime23 hours ago edited
     
    On a related theme, I've also been looking at a paper from the '40th Annual Conference of the Architectural Science Association ANZAScA' in 2006, titled 'Energy saving by ceiling fans, by Steven V. Szokolay AM, The University of Queensland, Australia' (amongst this big download: http://anzasca.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ANZAScA2006.pdf)

    From pulling together several bits of research, he came up with a guideline that a ceiling fan can produce 'an apparent cooling effect of between 1.6 and 2.8 K. It has been suggested that if one fan serves an area larger than 20 m2, this cooling effect should be reduced by a factor f, where f = 20/room area.' Where:

    900mm diameter = 1.6K
    1200mm diameter = 2.4K
    1400mm diameter = 2.8K

    If so, that will make a very significant difference to comfort in my place next summer - I have some of about 1.4m to install.
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