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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    Hey,

    I’m currently in the progress of building a single story extension on the rear of my house, located in the midlands.

    For the extension I drew up and got approved plans for a timber frame structure. The wall build up from inside to outside is currently:

    15mm plasterboard
    145mm studs with 100 PIR. (Resulting service space to inside, all joints tapped for Vapor sealing)
    11mm OSB
    Vapour barrier
    70mm EPS with direct render.

    However, since then I have read more into interstitial condensation, and under winter conditions there is a risk at the outside face of the PIR could suffer, this is behind the OSB and could lead to issues. Also the OSB becomes sandwiched between two layers, although EPS should have some permeability.

    So far I’ve looked at :

    -Increasing the PIR to 140mm and adding an internal service void does not seem to resolve it.

    -Switch to 140mm Rockwool between studs. (Decreased performance notably, but increase breathability). Still need to add internal service void as internal vapour layer needed.

    -Switch to internal PIR layer, add external ventilated cavity and render board. Also considered external PIR to reduce thickness, then cavity and render board.

    Really just looking for a sanity check, is there a fundamental issue with the project as designed, is there a way to add improvements, or does anyone have experience with similar?

    There’s a lot of discussion on similar build ups on here, but nothing quite the same.
    Any and all help is appreciated!
      IMG_6435.jpeg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    Welcome to the forum :)

    A vapour barrier near the outside is generally considered a complete no-no, and some don't even like them in their usual place on the inside of a wall. What led you to such a decision? What does condensation analysis show you?

    Personally I wouldn't use PIR anywhere, because of the pollutants it can produce in a fire, but each to their own.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    This is what I discovered, playing with WUFI - but let no one take it as my advice, just a suggestion, a variant to be considered, to your own (and BldgInsp's) satisfaction:

    Similar to what you have: 15 p'b'd on 145 studs, 145 blown-in Warmcel between, or EPS or fibreglass roll if preferred. Like Dave, hate PIR usually. Don't need a service zone - the p'b;d' can be punctured at will, not being reqd to be either airtight or vapour resistant.
    11 OSB3 outboard, all joints glued and screwed. The OSB3 is the airtight layer, mustn't be punctured.
    No VCL! - it performs better without any VCL.
    100 EPS glued to the OSB3, direct rendered.
    The whole is vapour permeable right through.
    Being about half way through the insulation sandwich, the OSB won't see any condensation - that'll happen only in the outermost bit of the outboard EPS, where it'll do no harm.
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    Thank you for the feedback :)

    I must admit, the PIR route stemmed purely from past experiences and the analytical view of U value performance. I think I came across a detail somewhere that illustrated this build up, did the basic maths and moved on. I assumed so long as the warm room air didn’t enter the wall there was no risk of condensation.

    Having played around with a WUFI calculator it is fascinating how different materials have such different behaviours , how moisture moves through the wall structure and how you need to think of the complete construction not just the U values. Also the change in behaviour with vapour barrier and where they’re located.

    In theory the current wall does hold up, but is very dependent on that interior vapour layer to allow no interior air through. I do much prefer the idea of a moisture permeable wall, that allows movement and has no risk due to lack of sealing or puncturing.

    Funnily, the best performance for drying and moisture movement, comes from moving the OSB internally, using rockwool (or similar) between studs and then wooden batts directly to the outside of the studs and render. You do have to increase the thickness however to achieve the same results. I’d have to do a cost comparison also.

    Thank you for the suggestions Tom, I’ve seen you suggest similar elsewhere, and the calculations do stack up for condensation. I’ve a preference for fibreglass over warmcell as I can DIY, and less mess. Presumably you glue and mechanically fix the EPS?

    EPS does seem to be the way to go, I like the idea of wood batts, but they’d have to be thicker, and nervous of using it only 150mm from ground level.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    Posted By: fostertomBeing about half way through the insulation sandwich, the OSB won't see any condensation - that'll happen only in the outermost bit of the outboard EPS
    I suppose if the current weather is the new climate, we might have to design for condensation on the inside as well?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 25th 2026
     
    Whoo, there's a thought
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Throwing Air Conditioning into the mix would make for some additional complications….

    Putting the current build up of 100mm EPS and either rockwool or wood fibre between studs,without a membrane is showing condensation at the OSB inside face for me…. It’s only really bad at -5C, once near zero it improves significantly.
      IMG_6446 Large.jpeg
  1.  
    Only a few points from me in response to others. I started a response yesterday but it fell off the cliff...

    Of all the mainstream insulants PIR gives close to the best 'headline' figure but it's only as good as the fit and the 'cloaking' of any thermal bridges. As FT highlights, anything with no thermal bridge mitigation is less than ideal, so anything that's 'all between studs' is, in my humble view, worth avoiding. For the OP's original construction, full (140mm) fill with Frametherm 32 (lambda 0.032W/mK) comes v close to the U value you'd achieve with PIR, and the fit will be better, because of the 'squidge'. *But you still want to cloak the bridge of the studs (see FT's suggestion).

    ''I like the idea of wood batts, but they’d have to be thicker, and nervous of using it only 150mm from ground level.''

    I used a lot of WF, but XPS (or, for my preference but not necessarily the comfort of system providers, EPS) below ground and above ground to at least the height of 'local splash-up' (the industry suggests rain splashes up 150mm. I have a 300-ish 'tide mark' on my shed...). In my view (and contrary to 'conventional wisdom') a set-back (plinth layer not as deep as main EWI layer) is not essential.

    Try that for size and I'll come back later if any 'supplementaries' req'd.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Oj, what software is that screenshot? Doesn't use the obsolete, flawed Glaser method, does it? You've previously used WUFI?

    In your cross section drawing at top, have you met any resistance to base wall 'only' 140 thick? If the stud above is 95 wide, I don't see why not 100 block base wall - significant economy of construction, smaller footprint. But I've had BldgInsps and Engineers insist it must be min 190 thick (meaning 215 or 2x100 cavity wall) but they can't say why. Anyone?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    How high rain splashes depends on what the surrounding surface is like. We have a gravel topped French drain all round our house for that reason. The downpipes from the roof gutters discharge onto the gravel and we haven't seen any problems.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Personally I like to see a bit of splashback staining, and def no plinth course - because I prefer a building to look like it's grown out of the landscape instead of a pristine box temporarily plonked down like a Portakabin.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomwhat software is that screenshot? Doesn't use the obsolete, flawed Glaser method, does it?
    It does - it's Ubakus, so not very helpful.

    Posted By: Oj0001EPS does seem to be the way to go, I like the idea of wood batts, but they’d have to be thicker, and nervous of using it only 150mm from ground level.
    A big advantage of wood (or hemp) batts is that they significantly reduce the decrement delay - effectively the time taken for heat to reach the inside from the outside; once heat reaches the inside then the building starts to heat up, and you want to delay that in a heatwave. Wood beats hemp for decrement delay, hemp beats wood for its moisture handling properties, both beat non-biological insulations (EPS, mineral wool, etc). You could use both though - EPS on the outer face, wood / hemp between studs.

    For various reasons, look to achieve good levels of airtightness. OSB3 could form part of an airtightness layer if the joints are sealed, but not all OSB3 is airtight, so check the manufacturer's data for the brand concerned.

    Posted By: fostertomIf the stud above is 95 wide, I don't see why not 100 block base wall - significant economy of construction, smaller footprint. But I've had BldgInsps and Engineers insist it must be min 190 thick (meaning 215 or 2x100 cavity wall) but they can't say why.
    I'd guess that's due to Building Regs structural stability requirements (Part A, 2C6) Solid walls constructed of coursed brickwork or blockwork should be at least as thick as 1/16 of the storey height - although most of wall is not in brickwork or blockwork, the part that is would be subject to similar forces.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: Mike1Wood beats hemp for decrement delay, hemp beats wood for its moisture handling properties, both beat non-biological insulations (EPS, mineral wool, etc)
    Compare also to Warmcel blown in to quite high density? Warmcel also has unbeatable gap-filling properties, hence pretty good airtightness without added membranes, becomes excellent and robust-in-depth, puncture tolerant, when paired with glued-and-screwed OSB3, easily proof against slumping, and along with fringe stuff like sheep wool (and hemp), has valuable humidity-stabilising (hygroscopic) properties. It's an interesting material, which people shy away from - install cost is dominated by the fixed cost of the installer's visit, much less by the quantity used. And Youtube is full of DIY installation by converted vacuum cleaner. To me, it's supreme, tho oddly Icynene is a close rival, with new Basf Porocav maybe in the wings.
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomOj, what software is that screenshot? Doesn't use the obsolete, flawed Glaser method, does it? You've previously used WUFI?

    In your cross section drawing at top, have you met any resistance to base wall 'only' 140 thick? If the stud above is 95 wide, I don't see why not 100 block base wall - significant economy of construction, smaller footprint. But I've had BldgInsps and Engineers insist it must be min 190 thick (meaning 215 or 2x100 cavity wall) but they can't say why. Anyone?


    It is Ubakus, apologies that's my ignorance, I hadn't fully appreciate the differences between the two methods. Although I don't fully understand why this method is considered less accurate from thermal and vapour gradients standpoint? I presume your actual WUFI build up of the above suggestion didn't show condensation risk?
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomOj, what software is that screenshot? Doesn't use the obsolete, flawed Glaser method, does it? You've previously used WUFI?

    In your cross section drawing at top, have you met any resistance to base wall 'only' 140 thick? If the stud above is 95 wide, I don't see why not 100 block base wall - significant economy of construction, smaller footprint. But I've had BldgInsps and Engineers insist it must be min 190 thick (meaning 215 or 2x100 cavity wall) but they can't say why. Anyone?


    The studs are also 140mm, hence the 140mm block. The plans as they appear were accepted as a full plans submission by BC with no queries other than a Radon report.
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Posted By: Mike1
    For various reasons, look to achieve good levels of airtightness. OSB3 could form part of an airtightness layer if the joints are sealed, but not all OSB3 is airtight, so check the manufacturer's data for the brand concerned.


    Is there a specific difference between air tightness (I presume to reduce thermal losses due to air passage) and Vapour diffusion through the wall? Since vapour barriers are designed to prevent air movement, but still allow vapour transport, why is there such an objection to them?
    • CommentAuthorOj0001
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Posted By: fostertomPersonally I like to see a bit of splashback staining, and def no plinth course - because I prefer a building to look like it's grown out of the landscape instead of a pristine box temporarily plonked down like a Portakabin.


    Funnily enough I was looking to add a decorative plinth course, while adding additional EPS below dpm to help with the thermal bridging.
      Screenshot 2026-08-26 134326.png
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: Oj0001140mm block ... accepted as a full plans submission
    Good news - encouraging. Here's a previous attempt to get it past BldgRegs:

    -----------------------------

    1.4.3 215 thick rule See drawing 316Ja-60.

    Just convention? Or is it deemed-to-satisfy A1/2 2C?
    If so, Table 3 requires 190mm, or A1/2 2C.12 requires 90mm for an ‘annexe’ not exceeding 60m2 (our new stud walled areas RED total 56.94m2).

    But does A1/2 2C apply at all to a masonry found wall under a studwork upper wall?
    A1/2 2C20 applies it to masonry walls (ours is mainly stud);
    A1/2 2C2 says the wall must extend to the full storey height (the masonry part of ours does not).
    The only specific (drawn) reference to a found wall is in A1/2 2C Diagram 8, showing the found wall only included because it’s part of a (multi-)storey-height masonry wall (ours is not). Note, our floor slab does not provide lateral support.

    Even if A1/2 2C applies, 2C3.d. allows a minor departure on the basis of judgement and experience.
    For a 100 thick found wall up to approx GL or FL, supported on both sides by compact material (as made significant in A1/2 2C Diagram 8) as in variants A,B,C and D:
    My judgement is that this low 100 thick found wall has multifold greater stability than a 215 thick wall of (multi-)storey height; and
    My judgement is that carrying stud down to the main found wall as A and C, compared with to top of 2c of Marmox laterally unrestrained as B and C, provides better lateral stability.
    My experience is that variants A and B enable the easiest, most reliable continuity seal between DPM and DPC in accordance with C 5.5.a., and airtight seal between sole plate and DPM in accordance with L1(a) 4.23.b. Once the sole plate is bolted down, all that sealing is protected from further works; and
    My experience, on previous residential buildings having similar found wall/floor/upper wall construction, and unquestioned by Bldg Insp, is that it has been trouble-free.

    As allowed by A1/2 2C3.d., the design should be released from deemed-to-satisfy A1/2 Table 3 (190 thick)

    ---------------------------------

    On that occasion, passed without comment, after previous objection - more due to oversight than agreement, I fear - I'd hope to get specific acceptance hence a precedent, not least to be no longer over-ruling the Engineer's spec.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: Oj0001Is there a specific difference between air tightness ... and Vapour diffusion through the wall?
    Yes, important to get clear, often (but not necessarily) to treat their respective barriers separately and/or to add or omit separately. Airtight layer can be anywhere within the sandwich, whereas VCL must be precisely positioned, usually well inboard.
    Posted By: Oj0001air tightness (I presume to reduce thermal losses due to air passage)
    equally or more important, to prevent vapour transport by bulk air movement (rather than by diffusion) to cold areas where it condenses.
    Posted By: Oj0001Since vapour barriers are designed to prevent air movement, but still allow vapour transport ...
    Other way round - just your typo I think. A pure VCL prevents vapour diffusion, not air movement - though some (or most) VCLs do both functions, if that's what your buildup design wants. A pure air barrier likewise doesn't resist vapour, but again some may do both functions.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: Mike1Wood beats hemp for decrement delay, hemp beats wood for its moisture handling properties, both beat non-biological insulations (EPS, mineral wool, etc)
    Compare also to Warmcel blown in to quite high density?

    Good question. My French hemp batt manufacturer also does a Warmcel equivalent, Jetfib'Ouate. So, putting those through the calculator at https://www.kenzai.fr/calculateur/dephasage.html, at 145mm thick:

    decrement delay Jetfib'Ouate = 4 hours (Warmcell)
    decrement delay Biofib'Chanvre = 4.5 hours (hemp batts)

    So hemp batts have the edge by 30 minutes.

    Raw data:
      Properties.png
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Returning to the results of my WUFI exploration, here's the summary/interpretation. As I said at the top, let no one take it as my advice, just a suggestion, a variant to be considered, to your own (and BldgInsp's) satisfaction:

    ------------------------------

    1.5.2 WUFI results charts

    Chart WUFI 1 OSB is the key one. For the proposed new external wall construction, with no VCL, it shows the variation of water content within the OSB3 or WBP ply sheathing layer (the outermost, most at risk timber in the wall) over three years of weather data for the region.

    Chart WUFI 1 EPS is included just for interest, showing ditto but within the outermost layer of the EPS EWI. It ranges between 13% and momentary peak of 70%, mostly below 30%. In this layer, far from any timber/board, such moisture content is harmless; note that even 70% of the weight of lightweight EPS is a tiny amount of water.

    Returning to Chart WUFI 1 OSB, water content is exceptionally stable over the season, ranging between 13.7% and 14%. At that, it poses no threat at all to the OSB3 or WBP ply sheathing in terms of delamination or rot.

    Note that the Charts’ vertical scales differ, so need to look at the numbers, not just graph shape.

    Water content was charted at 10 other layers through the wall thickness and at internal surface; as expected, from the sheathing inward the % water content decreases. Thus risk-of-harm decreases still further, moving inward, to zero at the inner surface.

    The new external walls’ construction is assessed and verified as complying with C 5.2 f. (condensation and mould growth), in WUFI.

    Just for interest, Charts WUFI 5 OSB with standard inboard VCL, and WUFI 6 OSB with variable inboard VCL, show significantly greater water content within the OSB3 or WBP ply sheathing layer; for comparison:
    WUFI 1 (with no VCL) ranges between 13.7% and 14%;
    WUFI 5 (standard VCL) ranges between 17.5% and 20.5%;
    WUFI 6 (variable VCL) ranges between 16% and 18.5%;
    Contrary to conventional wisdom, the version with no VCL at all performs significantly best.

    ------------------------------

    Here's WUFI1 OSB
      WUFI 1 OSB-1.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    WUFI1 EPS
      WUFI 1 EPS-10.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    WUFI5 OSB
      WUFI 5 OSB-1.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    WUFI5 EPS
      WUFI 5 EPS.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    WUFI6 OSB
      WUFI 6 OSB-1.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    WUFI6 EPS
      WUFI 6 EPS.jpg
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Posted By: fostertomWarmcel... along with fringe stuff like sheep wool (and hemp), has valuable humidity-stabilising (hygroscopic) properties.

    Hemp is still fringe in the UK, but widely sold in France. Sheep wool is still fringe everywhere, AFAIK.

    For humidity-handling ability, the French Warmcell equivilent is ranked 2 out of 4; hemp batts 4 out of 4 - both products from the same manufacturer, so no favouritism. More, in French:
    https://www.biofib.com/nos-produits/jetfib-ouate/ = Warmcell-ish
    https://www.biofib.com/nos-produits/biofib-chanvre/ = hemp batts
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    The climate file input into WUFI was Brussels - because it comes free, unlike any UK file, which cost £100s. Does that approximation sound reasonable/fatal?

    I think that re-drying potential is the explanation for 'performs best with no VCL at all'. Without VCL, re-drying is both inward and outward. With internal VCL, it's outward only. With variable VCL, a bit of inward drying is allowed.

    Of course, the sandwich has to be designed as suitable for 'fully breatheable' function - it's not a matter of leaving out VCLs for just any design. I arrived at this sandwich design after trying many variants, not just to work with WUFI, but also for buildability, fool-proofness, robustness as well.

    It's a tribute to the hypnotic power of profitable membrane and sticky tape manufs' adverts, that this VCL-less buildup apparently hasn't been tested and adopted widely.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026
     
    Posted By: Oj0001It is Ubakus, apologies that's my ignorance, I hadn't fully appreciate the differences between the two methods. Although I don't fully understand why this method is considered less accurate from thermal and vapour gradients standpoint? I presume your actual WUFI build up of the above suggestion didn't show condensation risk?
    No apologies needed, it's not obvious.

    The key difference is that WUFI simulates performance over time in a fairly realistic way - it's the gold standard.
    The Glaser method shows a very simplistic worst-case instance in time, which isn't very helpful - it was better-than-nothing before computer simulation became available.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeAug 26th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomThe climate file input into WUFI was Brussels - because it comes free, unlike any UK file, which cost £100s. Does that approximation sound reasonable/fatal?
    Seems reasonable to me - see, for example, https://weatherspark.com/compare/y/41841~51121/Comparison-of-the-Average-Weather-in-Coventry-and-Brussels Though global heating is going to rip up the external environment data - maybe model it on Grenoble for an insight into the future.

    However, from my experimentation, the internal climate used is likely to be the biggest source of deviation from reality, if the external is within the right ballpark.
   
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