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General: Clay roof tiles with a Nordic feel

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  1.  
    Can anyone recommend brands that fit the bill?

    We don't want concrete as they fade over time, we have realised we won't get away with a re-roof in our area with standing seam or corrugated due to planning and keeping the street similar.

    So we need to pick slates or tiles but we're thinking larger format tiles will achieve the look we are aiming for.

    Any pointers on this?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2026
     
    In your solar query you said the scaffold for the reroof was going up in a few weeks?? My serious recommendation would be to cancel the scaffold until you've bottomed out solar and roof detail. There's talk of El Ninio giving us worse weather than usual through the autumn so maybe reschedule for the spring if you're in an exposed area??
  3.  
    That's why I'm asking about roof detail, why recommendations on tiles?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2026
     
    If the scaffold is a few weeks away, you're putting alot of pressure on yourself to get roof covering/detail and solar bottomed out in a few weeks. Once you've sorted out the roof and solar specs then you've got lead times to consider...in my experience if you want something in a rush, you pay a premium for it!!
  5.  
    That gives me a few weeks to discuss and specify...
  6.  
    Nelskamp G10 any good?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2026 edited
     
    Do they still do the great big concrete plain tiles, which used to be the Devon post war housebuilders' low-cost standard - irregular enough to fade and mellow gracefully, not show every imperfection.
    Nah, haven't seen any for ages - prob weren't durable.
  8.  
    not sure - this was just from my chatgpt research

    I have looked into standing seam or corrugated and searched the local area and not one house has it in our area so I think that is a no go...

    So it needs to be something with solar - and chatgpt suggests the above....

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aJbfG6P6E5wgRfEOF37YjPtzn02HnuFI/view?usp=sharing

    We have also decided we will not extend into the roof;

    - We wouldn't be able to get dormers on the original roof due to overlooking the side properties
    - We don't feel adding a dormer to the extension side (above the balcony) add much real value other than what simple twin velux can add

    So for us it's simply pick a long term roofing solution
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2026
     
    I wouldn't assume just because no examples locally, that it's a no-go - even Dartmoor National Park as Planning Authority makes a point of encouraging 'good modern' design as an alternative to 'fitting in', even as extension to ancient buildings. It even illustrates examples, in its policy documents. Make the case, for good reasons - as you're obliged to (Design & Access Statement) in a Planning application.
  10.  
    I'll try and get some pre-planning advice

    There's not really much of the roof one can see so I'm probably overthinking the aesthetics

    I think a roof refresh in a dark colour will be a good change
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2026
     
    If you can get a Planning officer on the phone for free - yes - but I wouldn't do a formal pre-App enquiry - such a faff and expense that you might as well just make an Application.
    • CommentAuthorArtiglio
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2026
     
    FT are you finding that councils are pushing hard for people to go the pre app route? In my area it’s essentially a full application with a bit of discussion that turns it into an application they are happy with and so can pretty much rubber stamped when submitted as a planning application. Just a way of pumping up the overall cost.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2026
     
    Have you looked at Sandtoft 20/20 clay tiles?
  14.  
    These were suggested to me but looked a bit 'small' and too 'new estate build' if that makes sense...
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2026
     
    They are 330mm x 226mm interlocking, and do have a slight camber to them. How big are you thinking.
  16.  
    The Nelskamp are 488 x 297...
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2026
     
    Sounds like you're fixed up, go for it. Whether they would meet the "street similar" criterion is another matter.
    Many years ago I fitted Dutch Van-Oordt glazed clay pantiles to a roof, sort of a mottled rustic reddish brown. 45 years later they still look good. The firm has long since folded so I guess eventually it will be a complete re-roof. Your Nelskamp's are from Germany so make sure you order spares, I did and over the years I've needed them.
  18.  
    What about Marley Edgemere concrete tiles?
  19.  
    Clay tiles have an expected life span of 50 to 100 years whereas for concrete tiles it is 30 to 50 years but clay tiles are more expensive. Also concrete tiles are more prone to colour fade and will absorb water easier so more prone to moss and algae growth and frost damage.
    You pays yer money and.............
  20.  
    Can't remember if you said what the existing roof is, but be sure to check the weight if you are changing the covering - concrete tiles are heavier than slate. Few places round here got reroofed from slate to tiles, and now are visibly sagging.
  21.  
    Can you add insulation above the roof (ie. warm roof) under permitted development?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2026
     
    'm not sure but I'd guess you may run foul of planning regs. e.g. raising the ridge line.
  23.  
    "The permitted development rules allow for roof alterations without the need for planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions:

    any alteration to the roof cannot project more than 150 millimetres from the existing roof plane
    alterations cannot be higher than the highest part of the roof"

    Who would know?
  24.  
    We currently have Redland Grovebury concrete pantile, my understanding is that the modern concrete tiles will let a lot longer than previous designs...
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2026
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoWho would know?
    Are there other similar houses in the neighbourhood? And how will you get building regs approval? Lie on the paperwork?
  26.  
    If you went 100mm between the rafters and 100mm over, (or even 150mm over) that would give you a warm roof that doesn’t fall foul of this?
  27.  
    Yep, that's what I was thinking? But won't that affect the ridge line?
  28.  
    VE asked: ''Can you add insulation above the roof (ie. warm roof) under permitted development?'' and various suggestions ensued.

    I cannot remember how to find other threads started by VE, but I have a vague memory that the house is a fairly typical '60's detached without, as I recall, rooms in the roof. If I am right so far it may be the case that the roof void is not sufficiently tall for a loft conversion (or I may be entirely wrong). If I am right, though, talk of insulating at rafter level surely only increases the heated volume for no gain in living space.

    I think the 'between and over' (rafter) scenario for roof insulation would need an interstitial condensation risk assessment for the joint between the layers. A rule of thumb (Thanks Bill Butcher!) is that two-thirds of the R value should be above the rafters and one-third between in such circumstances.

    Happy to be told I've remembered all this wrong (and how to find VE's other theads!!).
  29.  
    Posted By: VictorianecoYep, that's what I was thinking? But won't that affect the ridge line?


    Good point and yes the ridge would be 100mm or 150mm higher. I can't think of any examples where this has been certified as Permitted Development (an over-the-rafter warm roof on an existing house re-roofing). I'm guessing a lot of people wouldn't ask.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: Victorianecothat's what I was thinking? But won't that affect the ridge line?
    Yes, and will ride higher on the chimney/flashings, and at the eave and verge line it'll show some exposed wall, or a gap. But, if renewing tiles, is such a great opportunity to do exactly this, especially if you have thought to one day using your roof space habitably.

    To do properly, 11 OSB3 over the rafter tops, gapfilling glued and screwed (or power nailed), all edges supported, as your airtight layer incl sealing to surrounding structures, breather felt over that, downslope battens as batten-space through-ventilation. To make room for the OSB and the battens within your 150mm, the insulation over the OSB can be 100 thick, and should form an unbroken teacosy with the wall EWI, if any.

    Think of it as state-of-art insulated stud wall, as I for one have described often here, just on slope. 150 insul between rafters, then OSB then 100 insul over is just fine by my WUFI investigations (usual disclaimer - don't trust what I say) in fact all-round better (for timber in interstitial condensation zone worries) than the common warren-truss solution.

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