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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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General: Window and doors in EWI

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    I am now well underway with my house renovation after a prolonged break due to illness, following on from my previous discussion.

    We have settled on 200mm EPS EWI and are now looking at the windows. The wife is concerned that the sunken-window look won’t look very nice. The windows would originally have sat on the blockwork, approximately 200mm inboard of the finished face of the EWI.

    I need to move them outwards, ideally in the easiest and cheapest way possible, as I’m having to make some sacrifices due to the costs spiralling.

    Compacfoam is expensive, and cutting and setting out individual blocks would also be quite time-consuming for the builder. He has suggested simply using 100mm treated timber, similar to a fence post, and fixing it back into the blockwork, perhaps with some steel brackets along the bottom and possibly the sides.

    I would also like to be able to remove the windows from the inside if anything goes wrong in the future, without having to destroy or significantly disturb the EWI.

    Can anyone give me any guidance on whether the timber approach would be suitable, or suggest a better/cheaper way of achieving this? Windows approx 3G 1600mmx1700mm, doors 3000mmx2100mm and 2100mmx2100mm.

    Secondly, I’ve also been quoted approximately £16/m² for graphite EPS beads to fill the existing cavity. Does that sound about right?
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    Ply boxes - what I did. Mine were in 160 EWI, and projected out 100mm from the brickwork, so a 60mm rendered reveal. In retrospect I wish I'd projected out 60 and left a 100 reveal.

    We screwed our windows in 'blind' - screws from the outside of the ply, into the window frame, so not easily removeable, but if you fix yours thro' the frames onto the box you'd be able to free the frame from the box. The (literal) 'sticking point' would be how the window is rendered in. If you use Compriband (or similar) expanding air-tight foam tape you could maybe just then do a big mastic bead which can easily be knifed thro' if you need to remove.
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    What sort of thickness plywood did you use? I made the mistake of specifying the windows as 1600mm wide when I should have made the opening slightly wider to accommodate the additional stuff, such as a plywood box. I think this was why I was thinking about a wooden frame screwed back into the blockwork like treated c16.
    • CommentAuthorNick Parsons
    • CommentTime18 minutes ago edited
     
    18mm ply. Assuming these are existing openings I don't quite understand ' I should have made the opening slightly wider'. I assumed it is what it is. Have you ordered the windows? If you cannot accommodate a box you cannot accommodate one, but fixing a big frame to the masonry is more of a thermal bridge than I think ideal. We used rigid wood-fibre (140-180kg/m3) which acts as much more of a 'shelf' than somewhat more compressible EPS would.

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