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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    Wow, I go away for a few days and come back to all this information. Really interesting conversations going on here.

    Is there any reason why, to support the window/door, it couldn’t sit on a 4x2 or 4x3 CLS timber plinth that is screwed back into the existing cavity wall leaf, with some steel brackets up the sides?

    Air tightness tape etc. all round and then encapsulate it all in the EWI, which in my case will be 200mm thick.

    Wouldn’t this remove all the thermal bridging while making it very simple to deploy? Maybe I’m missing something or not appreciating the weight of the windows and doors sitting on the timber.

    I also need to look at ordering windows, is Russel Tech Timbre still good value for money as I had a quote from 21degrees and can’t really afford them - more money was spent in the ground and rebuilding some walls ect than anticipated.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2026
     
    The window box does two things - allows you to secure the window into the insulation layer (cantilever) and also improves the ability to seal the window for airtightness.

    Windows are often fixed using metal plates fixed to the window then fixed back to the inner leaf. This offers numerous routes for air ingress.

    The box is deeper than the window itself, ideally comes back inside to the depth of the reveal.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2026
     
    Posted By: englishjohnIs there any reason why, to support the window/door, it couldn’t sit on a 4x2 or 4x3 CLS timber plinth that is screwed back into the existing cavity wall leaf, with some steel brackets up the sides?
    The steel brackets are a large thermal bridge; and a timber plinth is a smaller thermal bridge. A ply box does away with both of them.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: djhThe steel brackets are a large thermal bridge
    Definitely
    Posted By: djha timber plinth is a smaller thermal bridge
    yes, and can be made smaller still, I think, and as I'm offering to GBF collective wisdom, if done similar to my pic near the beginning, i.e. adapted as described a few posts later for extg masonry walling
    Posted By: djhA ply box does away with both of them
    Not entirely, and I'm saying not as well as the (more robust? easier?) way I'm describing. Trace the heat flow paths - am I wrong?
  2.  
    Thanks, I have a different question so will start a new thread.
  3.  
    What's the optional optimal construction for these boxes then? Any how to guides?

    What if the window is going to be inward opening and we decide to make the window bigger than the opening which has been suggested previously. How would you then fix them?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoWhat if the window is going to be inward opening and we decide to make the window bigger than the opening which has been suggested previously. How would you then fix them?
    The opening sash needs to be smaller than the inside of the opening, to allow it to open. :devil: So you can't make the window too much bigger. Make the rough opening big enough to fit the ply box, which is in turn big enough to fit the window. Use insulation and plaster (or whatever) to fill gaps or reduce the opening.
  4.  
    So this box...

    Would it support the weight of say a 2m x 2m 3g unit? Or a 3m x 2.4m sliding door set?

    It just feels it would have limitations?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 25th 2026
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoWould it support the weight of say a 2m x 2m 3g unit?
    Yes, all our windows are in boxes, and one is 3 m wide.

    Or a 3m x 2.4m sliding door set?
    Probably but I think you'd need to consider the weight of people and whatever else you'd be passing through the door as well. Make the box thicker, maybe?
  5.  
    Perhaps make the bottom rail of your box out of Compacfoam.
  6.  
    But what does that fix to? That'll be a lot of weight surely?

    The more I'm thinking, why doesn't one just mount them on the outer masonry skin. With 2/3 resting on the original sill and 1/3 in the EWI layer? With a small overlap?

    The thermal bridge can't be that bad surely as the window frames are made of timber, so surely a better u value than plywood anyway?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 25th 2026
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoThat'll be a lot of weight surely?
    Windows fix to the sides of the box,not the bottom. Ditto doors.
  7.  
    That's not correct
  8.  
    Let's go for an 18mm box then...

    Could this be done in OSB rather than plywood?

    I'm thinking of 150mm EPS which should give me Enerphit Standard.

    Would 150mm EPS give me decent reveals without minimising light?

    We would like to add feature bands around the window openings, could that be say 50mm deep giving us 200mm EPS t the
  9.  
    If you use a box the reveals are as deep as you make them. See discussion above. Having only used 60mm reveal on mine I would now use 100 (as suggested also by FT).

    By 'feature bands' I guess you mean a planted-on 'portal frame'. How would that interact with the cill? (If you want to replicate a 'stone cill' you can just use planted-on EPS).

    What was the last bit of the last sentence meant to say? '(''t the''...)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2026 edited
     
    Posted By: Nick ParsonsIf you want to replicate a 'stone cill' you can just use planted-on EPS
    I put a slab of 100 EPS 'flat' or rather sloping outward at 10o, tucked under the frame cill, overhanging wall face by 50mm, just like a real Georgian/Victorian/Edwardian Bath stone or brick-on-edge cill. Tidily rendered over of course - and if you think its top surface won't survive weather (I find it does), an ordinary bent-aluminium clip-under subcill can act as topping.
  10.  
    I haven't seen mentioned here before, so.. I recently came across a product called Triotherm+ which the manufacturer says is designed for supporting/cantilevering windows out in the insulation layer.

    It seems to be a very high density EPS and is supplied in planks of varying sizes 70/80/100/120/140mm x 85mm x 1175mm. It's supposed to be affixed to the masonry wall with 7.5mm concrete screws and adhesive.

    I haven't personally used this for windows, but did use it to keep the door thresholds in my house cosy. Observations: it blunts circular saw blades very quickly, and if I had to guess on behaviour and smell alone I'd say that the adhesive they supply is an MS-Polymer of some sort.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2026
     
    Posted By: Andrew_DoranIt's supposed to be affixed to the masonry wall with 7.5mm concrete screws and adhesive.
    Sounds like the principle that I've been pushing, but using 50x50 or 75x50 timber instead. I'm betting that such expensive stuff as Compactfoam or Triofoam would give little heat-loss advantage compared with the timber alternative, especially with the crucial tweak of the 35x35 fixing strip.
  11.  
    Andrew_Doran wrote: ''I haven't personally used this for windows, but did use it to keep the door thresholds in my house cosy. Observations: it blunts circular saw blades very quickly, and if I had to guess on behaviour and smell alone I'd say that the adhesive they supply is an MS-Polymer of some sort.''

    Sounds similar to Compacfoam, as previously discussed, which is effectively load-bearing EPS. 21 Degrees sell Compacfoam. @Andrew_Doran, if you don't mind looking at 21 degrees' website, does it sound like similar stuff to you?

    I have not used it for windows - I have no idea what it's like for strength around screw-holes, for example, but like @Andrew_Doran I have used it for thresholds. Then again, if the manufacturer says it is designed for cantilevering windows then it seems to fit the bill well.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2026
     
    There are several other alternatives in the Passivhaus database, though I'm not sure how many are available in the UK.

    https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/windowinstallationsystem
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2026
     
    Whew! All date from just after we built or later, so I'm not embarrassed. :bigsmile:

    BTW, when we installed our front door, there was an empty gap under the threshold, until I found some spare EPS to fill it with.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2026
     
    Posted By: Mike1There are several other alternatives in the Passivhaus database, though I'm not sure how many are available in the UK.
    I checked for SoudaFrame and saw that it's apparently not available in the UK, but then I checked for Belgium (French) and it says not found there as well! So something's weird.
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