| Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: englishjohnIs there any reason why, to support the window/door, it couldn’t sit on a 4x2 or 4x3 CLS timber plinth that is screwed back into the existing cavity wall leaf, with some steel brackets up the sides?The steel brackets are a large thermal bridge; and a timber plinth is a smaller thermal bridge. A ply box does away with both of them.
Posted By: djhThe steel brackets are a large thermal bridgeDefinitely
Posted By: djha timber plinth is a smaller thermal bridgeyes, and can be made smaller still, I think, and as I'm offering to GBF collective wisdom, if done similar to my pic near the beginning, i.e. adapted as described a few posts later for extg masonry walling
Posted By: djhA ply box does away with both of themNot entirely, and I'm saying not as well as the (more robust? easier?) way I'm describing. Trace the heat flow paths - am I wrong?
Posted By: VictorianecoWhat if the window is going to be inward opening and we decide to make the window bigger than the opening which has been suggested previously. How would you then fix them?The opening sash needs to be smaller than the inside of the opening, to allow it to open.
So you can't make the window too much bigger. Make the rough opening big enough to fit the ply box, which is in turn big enough to fit the window. Use insulation and plaster (or whatever) to fill gaps or reduce the opening.
Posted By: VictorianecoWould it support the weight of say a 2m x 2m 3g unit?Yes, all our windows are in boxes, and one is 3 m wide.
Or a 3m x 2.4m sliding door set?Probably but I think you'd need to consider the weight of people and whatever else you'd be passing through the door as well. Make the box thicker, maybe?
Posted By: VictorianecoThat'll be a lot of weight surely?Windows fix to the sides of the box,not the bottom. Ditto doors.
Posted By: Nick ParsonsIf you want to replicate a 'stone cill' you can just use planted-on EPSI put a slab of 100 EPS 'flat' or rather sloping outward at 10o, tucked under the frame cill, overhanging wall face by 50mm, just like a real Georgian/Victorian/Edwardian Bath stone or brick-on-edge cill. Tidily rendered over of course - and if you think its top surface won't survive weather (I find it does), an ordinary bent-aluminium clip-under subcill can act as topping.
Posted By: Andrew_DoranIt's supposed to be affixed to the masonry wall with 7.5mm concrete screws and adhesive.Sounds like the principle that I've been pushing, but using 50x50 or 75x50 timber instead. I'm betting that such expensive stuff as Compactfoam or Triofoam would give little heat-loss advantage compared with the timber alternative, especially with the crucial tweak of the 35x35 fixing strip.

Posted By: Mike1There are several other alternatives in the Passivhaus database, though I'm not sure how many are available in the UK.I checked for SoudaFrame and saw that it's apparently not available in the UK, but then I checked for Belgium (French) and it says not found there as well! So something's weird.