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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2026 edited
     
    I'm considering buying a place that has a few problems, and I'm trying to figure out how difficult/expensive they'd be to remedy, and if it's worth it or not.

    It's an old fishing lodge and is totally made of timber, other than one brick built boiler room set into the foundations that level out the slope it's on. It was built in the 70s.

    A large proportion has had further thin timber cladding added at a later date so it's hard to assess the condition of the timbers behind that, but some of the original timbers can be seen and are rotting in a couple of places (I also saw some wasps come out from under one part). It does look like there may be some insulation behind it, rather than being 'single skin', but what I can see looks like it's encased in plastic, which I would have though would sweat against wood. I'm not sure if this is original or not

    I don't know much about this kind of construction, but from the looks of it, it's essentially logs cut so that they stack up and interlock, and it's presumably quite hard to swap out one at the bottom, and potentially quite specialist work?

    Ultimately, I'd like to fit a heat pump so presumably (unless timber is a much better insulator than I realise?) I'd need to remove all the existing cladding, replace any bad timbers in the main structure, then have a layer of modern, high performance insulation and cladding added. Presumably something composite is best for the cladding, and I'd want it to be highly fire retardant.

    The roof would need similarly insulating - this looks to be some kind of bitumen like substance - it's the original roof and looks to be solid enough, but of course is 50 years old and won't last forever.

    There's also an old oil tank in the boiler room - it's too big to fit through the door so would need cutting up to get it out, but oil reside will make it flammable, so is it practically possible to do this at all? It doesn't cause a problem per se, but wastes a lot of potential storage space

    I've attached a few picture showing the construction, and the sort of rot I'm seeing, and also a rough floor plan with approximate dimensions.

    Does anyone have a feel for the difficulty of doing this, and what sort of ballpark costs are likely to be involved? Should I just walk away?

    edit - this picture doesn't seem to show up very well, but the whole place is about 19 metres wide by 6 metres deep, single storey
      floorplan.png
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2026
     
    Looks like I can only post one picture at a time, this is what it looks like inside
      inside.jpg
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2026
     
    Here's a rotten outside part with what may be insulation showing
      rot.jpg
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2026
     
    One more of the outside from the front, with cladding
      outside.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2026
     
    Welcome to the forum. :bigsmile:

    It sounds like an interesting project, but not one I would like to take on! Whereabouts is it, roughly. Is it in Britain? One thing you'll need to consider and become grindingly familiar with are the building regs and probaly planning permission. Planning permission is about appearances; building regs are about structure, and fire risk, and lots more.

    If it has proper permissions, it might be cheaper to knock it down and build something to current standards or better. I don't know how much could be reused.
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2026
     
    Interesting. It's in south west Wales.
    What would trigger building regs? My general understanding was that you could repair something 'as-is' that was built to the standards of the time, but is that not the case?

    Do you say knock it down and start again purely from an ease of compliance perspective, or because you think it looks too far gone to bother with?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2026
     
    I suggest you check out what needs building regs approval. Plumbing, electrics, roof coverings, insulation come to mind.

    I think it will be more expensive to do it up than to start again, but that's just my opinion.
  1.  
    The ease or otherwise of the repair will depend upon the construction method. From the photo it looks like a timber frame with board type sheathing inside and out. Sometimes this construction has loose tongues between the boards but from the photo the boards seem to be a type of shiplap. The photo to me does not look like whole logs dovetailed together at the corners. (this type of construction is difficult to replace the lower logs)

    The repair or rebuild will depend on the extent of the damage, the budget and the eventual use of the building. If you are thinking of stripping off the cladding and re-insulating then a rebuild my be a better long term solution.

    Perhaps get a professional survey (from some one who has professional liability) so that you can get a good understanding of the problems. Their liability insurance is needed 'cos if there is a disaster found that they missed then you have some chance of a claim.

    If you are thinking of a possible rebuild then try to find out what the local planning will allow before you purchase.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2026 edited
     
    It looks like the construction is on a concrete or block base using a straightforward stud wall clad with "log-lap " a type of decorative ship lap cladding, on both sides, I'm guessing.
    The log-lap is readily available and replacing thew bottom boards is relatively easy. Doing it all round the house with new treated boards wouldn't be too difficult. The roof structure looks strong but maybe lacking insulation. Adding that externally,-warm roof, with a tin type covering perhaps an option? I have no idea how planning and building regs would view any re working of the structure though.

    edit; X posted with Peter above
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2026
     
    As a former fishing lodge it may not come under the same building regs as a permanent dwelling. You may know what status the building is or need to make some enquiries. If it's not a permanent dwelling you may have far more freedom in the alterations you do. If you're repairing on a like for like basis then AFAIK it's largely unregulated.

    I'm a beleiver that wood only rots if its wet above a certain moisture content. You need to work out why that corner has rotted as modern preservatives are unlikely to protect replacement wood long term if the wood is getting wet and not drying out.

    If you can see a plastic membrane on the outside then that's almost certainly in the wrong place as it will stop any moisture in the walls escaping. When it's cold outside that moisture will condense on the inside of the plastic and adjacent timbers potentially leading to rot.

    If the vertical timbers inside the wall and the structural boards are largely rot free then I think you'd be better going for a refurb rather than a rebuild.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2026
     
    As others have mentioned, what is it currently classified to be used as? And what do you intend to use it for?
  2.  
    If it was a fishing lodge (= occasional or seasonal occupation) then converting it to permanent dwelling is likely to mean that it needs to be brought up to current standards (insulation etc.) for building regs and a change of use for planning - which could be a problem. Check the original PP.
  3.  
    Old oil tank - we had one, left the hatch and drain open for a long time to be sure no vapour remained, then sawed it up.
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026
     
    Thanks all for the helpful comments.

    I didn't realise you could get a survey done where the surveyor would accept liability - from what I've heard they usually go 'you might have this problem but we couldn't check'. That would be an interesting option to explore to get some certainty as a full rebuild is not something I want to take on - I was hoping to one day live there when circumstances allow, but use it as a holiday let first, staying there for a couple of weeks myself whilst I had someone re-clad it. If that won't be an option then then it's a no go.

    It sounds like I need to find out if it's even allowable to live there depending on its current status though!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026 edited
     
    Never realised before, that 'Material Change of Use' in Bldg Regs has suprisingly lax requirements - I'd assumed that MCU would be treated as newbuild (even more surprising, discovered that this applies to Part Q barn conversions).

    It looks damn substantial (and not 'in the wilds' but right next to a 'proper' house?) for anyone to argue that it's a temporary building, or seasonal occupation, unless already clearly documented as such for Planning and/or BldgRegs.

    I think all depends on the condition, overall, of the structural frame/framing (incl wall studwork?). If limited-area rot can be repaired, then go ahead, remove all cladding/insulation/membranes, maybe retain the internal lining, otherwise re-do it to high, fully breathable (no vapour barrier (VCL) reqd), highly airtight, ventilated-cladding/roofing standard. That will deal with interstitial condensation, penetration thro the cladding and penetration around windows as cause(s) of the persistent dampness that causes rot; I wouldn't trust any lesser standard (via lax MCU requirements) to do that trick reliably. If any other cause e.g rising damp (DPC), that has to be dealt with too.

    This approach will at least move the external wall and roof surface outboard, which would need Planning consent, unless you're game for contorted arguments and attempts to fit within Permitted Development.

    Armed with such best understanding, you may be in a good position to acquire at a good price, where other buyers (or even everyday surveyors) are put off by the unknowns - great to know that you'll just be sweeping away most of the dodgy build-up. Certainly play on the latter fears with the Estate Agent!
    • CommentAuthorelodius
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026
     
    I know it's hard to say without a lot more information, but to me this is sounding a lot more like 6 figure work than 5 figure, is that fair to say?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026
     
    You'd be taken for a ride if that was 6 figure work
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026
     
    I'd say the amount of work I've mentioned above (wall and roof build-up) and possibly also internal re-finishing, plus all the rest of plumbing, electrics, fitting out that you're bound to do (what about the windows?), is almost, perhaps 75%, equiv to a total rebuild, for which the guide price for one-off but non-deluxe is currently £2500/m2 of internal floor area. Note, the total rebuild won't have VAT added on top. which the repair will, tho a generously-defined slice of it which can be called thermal upgrading (but for some reason excluding new windows), will be at only 5% VAT
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2026
     
    If youre seriously interested, pay a local builder to look at it with you to work out the build up and ball park costs
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