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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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Housing - Renovation: insulated plasterboard - but HOW THICK?

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    • CommentAuthordwalker
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2008
     
    Hi Jeff,

    No - the thermal value of wood it very good when compared to stone.

    You only have to put your hand on the new wall then an old wall not yet done to feel the real difference.

    If you are close enough to call round (West Yorkshire) then come round and check it for yourself.

    Cheers

    Dave
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2008
     
    What he was trying to say was that wood is a very poor insulator compared to your insulation material. If you are unlucky you might be able to "see" where the battens are after a couple of years if not when it very cold outside.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2008
     
    dwalker - thanks for your response. I agree. Although I very much enjoy reading the discussions on this forum, sometimes, as a novice, I find it hard to judge the significance of some of the issues raised. They seem a bit academic sometimes? I am a firm believer in the law of diminishing returns especially when applied to all matters relating to insulation! It reminds me of the time I had to choose a hi-fi amplifier. You could spend a 100 quid on a perfectly good amp and perhaps the same on speakers but for "perfection" you could easily spend a 1000 quid or more for virtually no discernible improvement!

    I live in west Wales so sadly I would not be able call round, but thanks for the offer anyway. When I finally get around to insulating my dormer bedrooms I will post the results on the forum.

    Jeff B.
  4.  
    The mother of all documents when it comes to insulating a solid-walled home can be found here

    http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/uploads/documents/housingbuildings/CE184%20-%20practical%20refurbishment%20of%20solid-walled%20houses.pdf

    It's full of useful info, and also compares a stud wall with insulation and directly applied insulated plasterboard. It considers the bridging factor of timber.
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2008 edited
     
    Thats a very good document Jim, thanks for posting the link
  6.  
    • CommentAuthorndon
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2008
     
    as regards the bridging of timber, I try to apply a continuous, and sealed layer of insulation to the wall first, this is then held to the wall with battens (either 25mm or 50mm) and then the space between these can be filled, this helps to alleviate the thermal bridging. I would urge for the first layer to be 50mm at least.
    • CommentAuthorspinkox
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2009
     
    Dwalker - I like your positive attitude - and the trick of getting the plasterboard into the room - I wont forget that one.

    Heres a point though - Wont the damp you have penetrating at the top of your wall hit your plastic and condense and run down to the bottom and seep through to the skirting boards?? Isnt there one golden rule that has to be adhered to?? - vapour barrier always on the warm side of the insulation. Jeff mentions it on the wrong side too . . .

    steve
    • CommentAuthordwalker
    • CommentTimeOct 31st 2010
     
    Well its 2 years now and no damp. But our walls were NOT damp, the only area that showed moisture/mould was a dead area (top of stairs); this "dead area", which it was, is where the wall has a marked difference in temperature so gets condensation - this does not happen now. The wall is warmer.

    If there is any REAL DAMP - get that fixed first, else the plasterboard will expand as it continually absorbs the moisture, and the battens will rot too :-(

    Good luck with yours... (sorry if I do not reply - too busy trying to earn a living, cus I am not on benefits!)

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