Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

The AECB accepts no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this site. Views given in posts are not necessarily the views of the AECB.



  1.  
    I am taking a very expensive punt.
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeNov 27th 2008
     
    Mike,
    Aerogel is used as the insole in several top end work and sport shoes, Timberland and Salomon to name a couple and even as loose insoles called Toasty feet or similar so I wouldn't be worried about foot traffic!
    Interesting application you're looking at, I'd keep the Aerogel people advised........
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 1st 2014
     
    Sorry to resurrect this thread but I am very interested in knowing from Viking House how the light weight aggregate has performed so far? I have been researching this method and no matter how I look at it, it seems a winner except for costs. I would love to know which aggregates you have used? I am at the moment looking at blown glass such as TECHNOpor but the costs are huge. Thank you.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeMay 1st 2014
     
    My old man put about 800mm+ of LECA into the floor void of a house I grew up in - that would be about 40 years ago - it was a little victorian semi with raised floors in every room except the kitchen which was exposed staffordshire bricks and a bit at the front which had black and red tiles with a border around. I think the original void depth varied, but I can remember it being dug deeper in several places

    I was just chucked in level to the underside of the boards. No ventilation of any kind - and the boards were turned, had a saw cut run down each side and relaid as T&G flooring (the tounge was a glued in fillet).

    No vapour barrier of any kind other than the boards were pretty well fitted (and mother wanted them polished and exposed anyway) and did have endless coats of wax.

    The house is still in the family - my kid brother and his family lives there now - and there is absolutely no evidence of any rot or damp under that floor.

    Just anecdotal evidence I guess - but seems to back up Vikings exerience

    Regards

    Barney
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2014
     
    Thanks for that Barney, very interesting to know. Did your dad use expanded clay?
    I know that for technopor you need about 450mm for a u value of around 0.22 W/m2K, but for me the cost of that woks out to be about £5000...hell no way! So I'm trying to find a cheaper LWA and maybe fill some of the first layer with something else, then a LWA up to the floor joists and then wool between the floor joist laid on top of the LWA to get the best u value and to also stop the mice (of which I seem to have hundreds of) from eating any other insulation, which so far they have eaten all of the insulation from the heating pipes.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2014
     
    Yes - it was Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate (LECA).

    It was probably around 10- 12mm beads, they came from a nearby concrete block works that used to make LECA blocks amongst other things.

    I suspect my old man did a deal with the guy running it (they had been old army buddies) and I can remember it turning up in a tipper from the supplier - I may even have filled the odd barrow and had a ride round on the journey from road to lounge.

    I can't imagine for a minute that it was expensive (pro rata).

    It doesn't have a particularly good insulation value - you'll need roughly 3 times the thickness to match EPS.

    Finding a supplier who deals in bulk is the key - buying it in jumbo bags by the m3 is fearsomely expensive - particularly from so called specialist suppliers - you want the people who are supplying by the many tipper load to civil engineering projects and can blow it straight in or dump it outside in 20m3 plus loads.

    Try looking for Plasmor or Alfa bulk suppliers

    Good luck anyway

    Regards

    Barney
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2014
     
    Thank you Barney...sorry I'm new to all this, I just have basic DIY knowledge and it's very basic! I'll keep looking but the prices are still coming in huge, probably due to needing about 450mm in depth and an area of 115 m2.
  2.  
    Barney, you wrote: ''I was just chucked in level to the underside of the boards''.

    Did you get back out OK?
  3.  
    Hi Clare, we switched to EPS bonded bead under the floors because LWA was too expensive and we needed too much to achieve a good U-value.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2014
     
    How much a cubic meter for eps beads? Were they platinum ones? Can you tell us supplier or manufacturer name too please.
  4.  
    I guess cavity wall people will do it? Plenty of them around
  5.  
    Re eps blown under floor. know there's some debate around condensation risk on joist end etc. Also pvc cable need to be protected.
    How about fire risk and regs. Any thoughts?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 3rd 2014
     
    How often do fires start toned the ground floor in houses? Very rare I would think and even when it has caught fire if you are not out quicker than the fire reaches under the floor boards it could be too late to worry about the beads under there.
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2014
     
    That was my next thought Viking house. I have so far contacted manufactures direct, such as William Sinclair for Maxit LWA and Silvapor and Misaor, Glapor, Technpor and Foamit for foamed glass...I am waiting for the quotes. I will investigate eps. Thank you so much for letting me know.
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2014
     
    I don't seem to be able to find an EPS product that can be used to fill up the floor space. Can only find ones that you use to fill between the floor joists, leaving the ground open underneath.
  6.  
    You wont find it. Its the cavity fill eps beads pumped into the floor void. There's a thread on here discussing pro and cons. Not in anyway a mainstream solution. Trouble will be finding an installer willing to do it due to litigation concerns
  7.  
    I took on the risk myself, the supplier was Airpacks in Ireland. We did close to 50 houses, never any problems! My own house is even done, I just fitted a smoke alarm in the hallway.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2014 edited
     
    Im very tempted by the idea, happy to take the risk also. Whats a good guide price m3 for the eps. Looking at one at the moment thats about 400mm void 8/5m so quite a space to fill.
  8.  
    I've just got Foamit foam glass from Lime Green. It only has 10% compaction as opposed to the 30% of Thermopor, and I need to compact it as it is going under a hempcrete slab. I looked into LECA too, but just felt I wanted the better non-wicking performance of the foam glass. Lime Green were the best price for the LECA too - I did initially find cheaper, but then discovered that it was the plain LECA not the silicone-coated, which I needed as it was to be a capillary break as much as insulation. In the calcs I needed either 170mm foam glass or 200mm LECA to combine with 100mm hempcrete slab to reach a min U-value of 0.25 (U value is a bit better than this for the foam glass option). Hope that helps a bit?
  9.  
    I've used GLAPOR Recycled Foamed Glass in the past I presume Foamits similar , cant find limegreen, where abouts are you ?
    Fancy whispering or posting your price m3.
  10.  
    James,

    These, perhaps?

    http://www.lime-green.co.uk/
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2014
     
    Yep, Glapor, Foamit and tecnopor is all the same stuff, just different companies who are all in Germany. I cannot find a company that make foamed/blown glass in the UK. Foamit do have a depot in Yorkshire and Tecnopor have a few resellers in the UK however buying through the resellers is much more expensive, for example I got quoted £127.50 per 1.4 cubic meter of Tecnopor direct from Manufacture in Germany but the resellers quoting me in excess of £230.0 per cubic meter….massive difference even more so if you want to buy 91 cubic meters direct from Germany as this will only cost you £75.00 a cubic meter plus delivery, but I don’t need that much although I do need about 35-51 cubic meters depending on how I finish the insulation. Also William Sinclair manufacture LECA and slivapor and I am waiting for quotes once I have these I can then compare.
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2014
     
    Slowbuilding...thank you so much for that info. It would be very interesting to know how much you paid for the Foamit from Lime green. I am currently chatting with the export manager at Foamit and waiting for quotes. I have two options at present 64 cubic meters delivered in a container from Germany or a truck from Yorkshire??
    Doesn't help that I'm in Aberdeenshire...bloody hell....I'm gonna be poor!
    I'm thinking now of using LWA as a base to act as a DPM, then EPS to fill up the gap a bit more, then more LWA (on top of the EPS) up to and surrounding the joist, to help with costs as my floor depth is about 450mm.
  11.  
    On my project, link here:

    http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=12057&page=1#Item_0

    It appears 10m3 would be extortinate to do this method

    Can anyone offer advice on my project?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2014
     
    Quotes for Maxit LWA are coming in at £153.29-£164.81 for each bag which are 1.2 m3 the later based on needing 34.8m3 and Slivapor £142.10 - £154.33 for each bag which are 1.25m3 again the later based on buying baulk for 35.0m3.

    Think I might have to sack this idea as it's going cost thousands.

    I have no advise for you Victorianeco, I'm new to this myself. I really wanted to use LWA because my heating pipes run under the floor and bloody mice keep eating all the insulation. So once I insulate and put new flooring down my pipes will be beyond the thermal barrier and if fecking mice eat the insulation again I could end up with burst pipes. The prices for LWA are just so high and I could insulate using BDPM and wool (or something) for 1/3 of what the LWA is coming in at.
  12.  
    Can you not reroute the pipes?
    • CommentAuthorClareB1
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2014
     
    That would also be a big job...I have 3 foot thick Granite walls :cry:
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2014 edited
     
    Just wondering , would this Foamglas every cover it embodied energy/ environmental negatives from the shipping from Germany.
    Same with lime product , wood fibre insulation . all shipped from France, Germany etc.
    anyone looked at the sums
  13.  
    Hi all, sorry I didn't reply, misunderstood how the forum worked (assumed notifications would be emailed).

    So, for my project, some context might help. The first thing is I have a very small flat I'm doing this in - under 50sqm. I decided the best way to lower my 'footprint' would be to convert my 3-bed terrace into 2 flats, so did the upstairs with dabbed insulated plaster board, created an internal bathroom, and put a kitchen in the old bathroom. This is now let out. The ground floor will be my new, smaller, home.

    I decided (due to rotten joists in many places thanks to previous owners raising ground levels, plus poor floorboards, plus limited wall space due to it being a small, open plan flat), to go for solid floors & underfloor heating. Because it is what I know the most, and have worked with the most, I always knew I'd be doing a hempcrete slab. Initially I was planning on silicone-coated LECA, but I uncovered enough concerns about the silicone coating not being guaranteed to have coated each clay ball fully etc. PLUS the fact I'd need 200mm of it rather than 170mm of foam glass, which would need digging out, that I decided to go with the foam glass. It's costing £135 per m3, and I will be using 9m3.
  14.  
    This is not cheap, I agree. However, I did decide early on that I would be spending my money on the floors and the ufh, plus IWI in the few areas of external wall, on the basis that these are wise places to spend it to see me through the next 30+ years. I am making my kitchen out of the floorboards, and I have a toilet & sink from before, so other than a boiler, most other things can be got off Freecycle to see me through until such time as I have saved some more for 'decor'. Everyone's choices will be different, as we each have different lives ;)

    So, I dug out my floors to 380mm, and will have 35mm of gravel first, just to level things firmly, then 170mm foam glass, then 100mm hempcrete slab (this gives me better than 0.25 I need for Building Regs). On top of the hemp slab I'll put ufh pipes, and then a 50mm lime mortar / screed in one, with terracotta tiles on top.
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press