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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorheadgear
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    Ref Sempatap;
    Just had a look at the products section of their website.
    The technical details section section discussing resistance and u values fails to give sufficient details of the construction for the given figures to have any value for comparison with other potential solutions.
    Of all the reports listed, ONLY the thermographic imaging report has it's own active link; why is this?

    Of the thermographic images, without calibration points these are worthless. I have never seen such images used in a report without calibration points. Have a good look at the before and after images, paying particular attention to items like surrounding vegetation, house next door etc.

    Make sure your bullshit detector is switched on at all times.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010 edited
     
    Posted By: jamesingramthe job was 55m EWI with acrylic render 35m just arcylic render
    the 35m required a key coat and a leveling coat which took a similiar amount of time as fixing the EWI
    so I think it fair to say if we'd insulated that also costs would have been similiar
    interesting - I'd had it in mind that, if rendering on blockwork or whatever, the extra cost of making it into rendered EWI would be small, because the render is such a major part of the total. Now you're saying that adding EWI behind the render in fact comes almost free!

    Posted By: jamesingramEWI materials £ 28m2
    Other material costs £ 10m2
    labour £47m2
    Does 'EWI materials' include the render, mesh etc, as part of the patent EWI system? So what does 'other materials' include?
    Do you have a price for the EPS material alone? Cos if that's only a small part of the £28/m2, at 70mm thick, then it shd make little difference to the overall price, to double or quadruple the EPS thickness? Or do you think that EPS thicknesses greater than say 100mm start to involve more expensive/longer/specialist fixings, or more labour/time? EWI specialists have told me that the answer to the latter is 'not really' but I find that hard to believe.
  1.  
    Tom
    Yes , EWI materials include the render, mesh etc, as part of the patent EWI system
    oh soups ready back in 5 min
  2.  
    mmm oxtail luvvly,

    render only to block was on aerated so poor key required keying coat , so standard brick would only require levelling coat. swings and roundabouts , probably a bit more work in insulation fixing
    other onecoat systems dont require leveling/priming coats etc.

    other material include scaffolding , bit and bobs
    I'll email supppliers spec. and pricing over to you

    I'd have thought the moment you run out of space under the sofit , verges etc you're going to get large price increases , also its nice to leave a reasonable soffit etc to offer some longterm protection for the wall
    so this would be a limiting factor on thickness/price
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    As i see it, part of the EWI deal to really get the benefit, is to also run it as a 'tea cosy' unbroken at the eaves, over the rafter tops. so the roof-finish plane gets jacked up by 150 to 200, crossbattened-over etc for new tiling, and it's simple to extend that outboard to recreate whatever eave overhang you want. That way you can near-enough reproduce the eave detail.overhang you had before (or improve the appearance in v many cases). Also the eave, being jacked up as well as moved outboard, ends similar distance above the window heads.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010 edited
     
    Yes, the best solution, makes sense and simple to do , change the eaves-sprocket detailing , put pricey ,
    extra scaffold lift required new sofit/fascia/gutter work , finding matching 2nd hand tiles etc
    would there be any planning issues ?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    'simple to do ' - that's it, once everyone realises they can stop struggling around inside attics, worrying about eave ventilation, with automatic jointless airtightness, no thermal bridging - and a new roof with felt that'll last 100yrs!

    Yes, would need Planning at present - and lots of resistance of course if in conservation area etc let alone for listed building. I think it has to come, even for LBs. it will certainly be done hideously in v many cases - no change there then!
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    I have learnt a lot on this forum and in other places but have you the least idea how big are the obstacles to refurbishment-design for the poor old householder who is not in a position to DIY?

    Many (?most) architects are just not there yet, surveyors have even further to go and structural engineers – well what can I say. There is a certain look that comes over them when the client says “Reducing heat loss is a very high priority for us”. It is a mixture of disdain and disbelief.

    Then there are the planners. We are currently in negotiation with a National Parks Planning Authority who turned down an application to raise a roof by 250mm in order to add external insulation to a Victorian schoolroom (“open roof” with its original pine sarking boards on view internally and in fine condition). After two visits and lengthy explanations they might agree to 150mm if “thin fascia boards can be retained” but it is touch and go. They have allowed EWI on two sides of the building (stone) because the aesthetics had already been “spoilt” by a combination of cement render and “water-proofing” paint. They hate the two “solar” porches around external doors (so out of keeping, stone in the gothic style would look so much better!) but again may agree to reduced versions. The Authority has a pretty good policy document on “sustainability” with sections on solar gain and heat retention – great we thought that will really help us. However the planners feel entirely free to ignore the content. They know even less than us when it comes to reducing heat loss and reckon that internal insulation is the way to go – so much better from the aesthetic point of view.

    If they do agree to the plans there will then be the problem of builders and building control because 1. architect + 2.surveyor have already decided the project is not for them – we have ignored their advice (1. dry line and 2. Beam and block floors and once you have underfloor heating the heat will only rise to about 6 feet so you won’t need to insulate the roof!!!). We are left with a reluctant technician modifying the drawings while the clock ticks on to the deadline. If we are lucky enough to get planning permission we will still have to --------------ahhhhhh. See what I mean?
    • CommentAuthorheadgear
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    Hi Bella,
    I did a heat and moisture control preliminary survey for a house in Snowdonia a year ago and have just finished writing it up for a module essay. I believed at first that the client was over paranoid about the planners attitudes - now I know he was right all along.

    The trade off is this. If the overall policy is to retain the Parks as living communities all sorts of people need to be able to afford to live in the houses. Increasingly this means energy conservation is a greater priority, in conflict with aesthetic and built fabric conservation policy. If the latter are prioritised then the houses can only be used in summer; ie as holiday homes.

    WE have to keep driving this home to the planners at all levels, officials and decision makers. In Wales it also goes to the issue of the native language - also a material consideration in planning applications.

    Whichever Park you are in, I wish you the very best with this.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2010
     
    Good stuff from both bella and headgear. bella, sounds like you've done remarkably well already with the Planners (which NPA is it?)! You can prob live with 150, if you go to highest-performance insulation boards. You'll prob have to lose 25 of that 150, as you'll need crossbattening over the flat top of the insulation boards, instead of single conventional slating battens as at present. As you're EWI-ing only two of the four facades, you'll have a problem creating a symmetrical wall-eave/verge situation. Do you have overhanging eaves/rafter ends? How will you in effect move them up by 150, having raised the roof finish plane by that amount?
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2010
     
    FosterTom and Headgear, I will whisper the Parks Authority involved, just in case ----------- if you know what I mean. Yes we do have deep eves and visible rafters and there will be an asymmetry to deal with. The latter is the really hard one as it is a blank gable end - will mean “coming round the corner” – will they notice we ask ourselves! The eves and fascia boards we think can be solved.

    If we get PP we will need a new architect who understands old buildings but also knows how to think through the insulation/design issues for retrofit, plus a really skillful roofer cum external insulator. The detail on how to install insulation over the pine sarking boards (insulating boards straight on or false rafters+boards on top??), which material to use (woodfibre or EPS or PUR??), whether or not to put a membrane (breathable?? ) between pine sarking boards and insulation (completely open to interior for 160 years remember), how to deal with walls (cement render off, pointing out, “paint off”, then lime pointing + render and insulation on top (woodfibre boards or EPS), lime render over or Hemcrete onto restored substrate??) .

    External drainage and internal floor are other very important basics requiring skilled decisions. In fact it is the level of skill needed all round which is so daunting for a householder who gets “the message” but goes there only once. Following this forum is not good for one’s health – raises the bar awfully high and leaves no way back. If we are lucky enough to get through the above we will probably already have run out on money and probably won’t be able to afford those porches anyway!!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2010
     
    Posted By: bellaforum ... raises the bar awfully high and leaves no way back
    So true! I look forward to discovering where you are - sure we can find you a good designer, for a start.
    • CommentAuthorbjd
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Hi Bella,

    V interested in your post. I live in the PeakDistrict in a conservation area - just about to initiate a plan to put EWI up on our 1920's Stone house - at least a part of it (done/ doing IWI in the visible areas). Would love to know about your progress. My own work to date confirms your experience with the Planning department being "politically" into climate change measures, but only a distant second to their take on the "conservation" of aesthetics (instead of conservation of trivial things like conservation of our economy/ society/ habitat etc.).

    BTW, James, et al:
    - my EWI project encompasses a central part of the building enclosing several small rooms, bathroom/ kitchen etc. - you can imagine what the outside looks like with soil stacks/ multuiple windows/ drains etc. Do I understand that the solution is always to move all the services outboard of the EWI. I can't see a way around this, but it may make the whole project unfeasible (especially re underground drainage) - £100/m2 would become unachievable.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    you wont need to move drains -- just a small offset at ground level -- £100 should include all messing around but i think that a local builder well instructed ought to be able to do it for you for half the cost.
  3.  
    Tony , take a look at my costings above ,
    Possiblities to get the price down , by not using a "all in sytem" from specialist supplier/manifacturer
    standard insulation/mesh/render brought from a local builders merchant
    But these light-weight acrylic or lime finish through colour systems do seem to be more suitable products and hopefully longer lasting etc.
    cheers Jim
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    I wish I could get paid £ 47 per meter for rendering even if it includes fixing insulation and mesh it is still very high.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010 edited
     
    I can see why people charge quite a bit more than that,

    Thats at £28 per hour for plasterer and labourer , fair going rate in SE ( no mark up for MC )
    the trouble with the EWI system its at least 7 visits to the wall .
    here's a basic run through of whats involved

    Remove downpipes , clear area , scaffolding etc
    Clean and prime, drying time
    Fit base rail
    install insulation , similiar to dot and dab fitting plus drill through insulation fixings ,drying time
    Mask up
    fit beads , drips etc.
    1st ,6mm coat
    install mesh ,trowel into render
    2nd 6mm coat ,to level sponge finish , remove masking, drying time
    coloured primer, drying time (perhap another mask ,before and after)
    Mask up
    Apply acrylic 3mm top coat , float up
    remove masking, drying time
    replace/ adjust fitting, downpipes , clean up etc.

    with sand cement render on galv. mesh on battons on insulation+ painting whats the m2 rate for labour ?
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010 edited
     
    looking back £85m2 ish was my ballpark figure last jan. for a non-specialist system
    I was obviously over optimistic with my £55m2 a few months ago !
    • CommentAuthorheadgear
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Bella,

    Have you considered sandblasting to remove the paint? One bonus is it also can get behind broken cement pointing, making it loads easier = quicker= cheaper.

    I've seen it done on an oak frame house ( the one on my website being lime washed), so stone should be no problem.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Oof! AFAIK sandblasting will tear great gashes in stone, seeking out the softer bits.
    • CommentAuthorheadgear
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    For what values of stone ? As I say, I saw it done on oak frame house to remove modern impervious paint from face oak and panels. Some panels needed re-rendering and one replaced entirely, the brick panels were repointed, and panel to frame joints detailed with lime mortar before we applied the wash.

    Obviously one has to find a sandblaster with some clue about building materials and how they respond to his various grades of sand and of blast power !
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Stonemason says no chemicals and no sandblasting - best way is to chip off by hand. Could do some ourselves where it is loose already. It does not have to look good as it will be covered (I shall slate hang if all else fails, apparently slates were removed from two gable ends about 40 years ago) but does have to allow evaporation - "evaporate moisture" seems more direct description of what is required than "breath".
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Posted By: bellabest way is to chip off by hand. Could do some ourselves where it is loose already
    If it's smooth ashlar limestone, 'Dress off' wd be the description - they'll chisel off (with a broad toothed chisel) 2-3mm of stone in the process (as top layer will be patchily impregnated with stuff), prob point in some places with matching stonedust/lime, and drag-finish (with a serrated flat steel plate hand scraper) beautifully smooth. Skilled job. So you doing the few bits where it's loose wouldn't help.
  4.  
    Anyone,

    I am correct in thinking that cladding instead of render might make this less expensive?

    Is cladding more doable for someone like me with low level skills and none at all in plastering?

    Peter
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    plastering isnt that difficult but yes cladding is easier to diy.
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Terms, yes terms. Stonework to gable end is rubble stone with only approximately flat surfaces horribly cement pointed and slurry painted. An old chimney within the wall has cause some stone corrosion in places.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010
     
    Ah, rubble stone - well, similar applies - still dressed off 2-3mm deep, left with chiselled finish. Will look fabulous, after proper repointing.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2010 edited
     
    "plastering isnt that difficult " I know some plasterers that have made a living for years doing it
    but I wouldn't let them near one of my jobs ! Like most things, easy to do unless you're looking for that top notch
    finish, then it require some real skill
    The acrylic renders systems certainly easier than plastering , much more forgiving , just a bit time consuming
    some good info here on detailing for EWI systems including possible DIY wood cladding
    http://www.azobuild.com/downloads/GPG-external%20wall%20insulation%20MK.pdf
    • CommentAuthorheadgear
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2010
     
    I'd be very interested to hear how your planners react to hung slate !

    If it's an acceptable exterior finish for the Park then it opens up huge potential solutions for weather proofing EWI. Still needs the wall behind the insulation to be dry, but at least it's something!
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2010
     
    fostertom, There you are telling me how "fabulous" this stone wall will look when I am trying to make the place as dry and warm as possible with external insulation and/or cladding to SSW and WNW elevations. And I thought I was getting over my "preserve it at all costs" phase!! You see how difficult all this is?

    headgear, A massive, gable end (SSW) wall was originally (or at least for first half of the 20th century) slate hung. The house sits on a very exposed site and this wall takes the prevailing wind and rain. Our proposed plan included a long lean-to glazed porch along this wall (leading up to the back door) under a slate roof at 45 degree pitch starting about 0.5m below the eves of the gable as a sort of echo functionally and aesthetically of the slate hanging - they did not like it one bit - but could they really object to re-instituting the slate hanging especially as they were so very concerned about "implications for wild-life" (by which they mean bats) as a consequence of our proposals. We don't have bats but wouldn't mind if we did and slate hanging is bat heaven.
   
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