| Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: Marenthe best way to insulate a cavity built 1930's bungalow? And the extension?Without seeing it, piece of cake - EWI (external wall insulation) - 150-250 EPS (expanded polystyrene) or wood fibre board (see NBT -Natural Building Technologies) applied to the outside face, rendered, £75 to £95 per m2. Resist cavity wall insulation - totally inadequate insulation and empty cavities are a thermal asset if filled with clean shingle or weak concrete inboard of EWI. The extension's walls can be built of solid aerated blockwork (available in e.g. 255 thickness to match an old cavity wall thickness, and in 215 high courses because so lightweight a mason can easily handle big blocks) finished with the same EWI, seamless with the extg house's EWI. Carry the EWI right down to the top of the strip found, with just a nominal 25mm of EPS insulation under the new floor. Roof - insulate between the rafters, preferably blown-in Warmcel, after laying 9mm OSB glued and screwed over the rafter tops, 100-150 EPS over that, jointless with the wall EWI, secured with downslope battens, breather felt draped over, then tile and batten.
Posted By: fostertomPosted By: Marenthe best way to insulate a cavity built 1930's bungalow? And the extension?Without seeing it, piece of cake - EWI (external wall insulation) - 150-250 EPS (expanded polystyrene) or wood fibre board (see NBT -Natural Building Technologies) applied to the outside face, rendered, £75 to £95 per m2.
Posted By: MarkBennettEPS=~0.3kW/mk, wood fibre board=~0.45kW/mkBit closer than that AFAIK:
Posted By: MarenThird side next to an already extremely narrow driveway with no space left to sacrificeOK, that's where 'without seeing it' comes in - think of something else maybe internal for the Grd. Fl, return to EWI for 1st. Fl, tho it's a double pity to suddenly bring the insulation line inboard - creates lossy thermal bridging situation. Consider extremely insulative (therefore only one third as thick) but expensive Aerogel for that wall. Obviously not he fourth wall you're building against, except above its roof line, if lower?
Posted By: MarenI was told ... external insulation would prevent the cavity walls from breathingRubbish - EPS is adequately breathable, Pavaclad very breathable. Closed-cell XPS (extruded polystyrene) and the other foamed plastics are not breathable and cost more. You'd need to use XPS below GL, down to top of strip found.
Posted By: fostertomPosted By: MarkBennettEPS=~0.3kW/mk, wood fibre board=~0.45kW/mkBit closer than that AFAIK:
EPS Platinum (extra cost) 0.030 or a bit worse
EPS standard 0.038 av
Pavatherm 0.038 is used in tandem with Pavatherm Plus 0.042, so 60 + 60 gives 0.040, 100 + 60 gives 0.0395.
So 150 or a little more EPS Platinum is equiv to 190 EPS standard is equiv to 200 Pavatherm.