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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2011
     
    Google found..

    http://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/condensing_boilers.html

    "These condensates will dissolve lime-based mortar, clay drainage pipes, concrete septic tanks and kill the beneficial bacteria in sewage treatment systems"

    Possible solution?

    http://www.plumbingpark.co.uk/plumbing_hvac_article13091.html

    "Salamander Condensafe+ neutralises acidic waste from condensing boilers "
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2011
     
    Thanks. That is seriously worrying, although not a massive issue in rural areas.

    We have a choice of re-routing the condensate pipe to the (trade recommended) internal waste which goes to the cess pit or leaving it where it is, draining into a soakaway.

    The first option would anyway be very difficult to achieve because of the boiler's location, but we seriously considered it to avoid future freeze-ups by having to box-in the existing external run which will be unsightly. But I think that's the one we'll go with to avoid discharge into the main soil pipe.

    I knew the discharge was acidic because it says so in the manual, but not how acidic! I now know why we have a pristine-clean drain cover and surround to the rainwater soakaway.
    • CommentAuthorListysDad
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2011
     
    Sorry Joiner not been around lately. As CWatters has indicated, don't do it!

    In those situations I'd reccomend taking it internal mostly and then out into either a neutraliser or its own soakaway but just ensure it is PROPERLY insulated. Oh also, when constructing, do notuse elbows; use 2 x 45s instead, ensure all ends are square and DO NOT put adhesive in fitting but on pipe so it has less chance of blocking the flow. I learned the hard way!

    One other thing to consider, unfortnaley running it internally is NO guarantee of it not freezing. I went to a number of frozen pipes located either behind kitch cabs or under cupboards and behind plinths. If you have an older building with perhaps solid walls, all pipework, as its insulated from ambient temp, near outside walls MUST be insulated. When my next kitchen goes in all pipework will be insulated for sure.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2011 edited
     
    Thanks, but all the considerations were already made, the decision to route to the soakaway on the basis of the information contained in the link on Cwatters' post. All the external pipework (and the condensate pipe is just one of three on that section of wall) will be boarded into a well-insulated external cupboard allowing free access.
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