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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorRich T
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2010
     
    Hi, after years of preparing for our new build, finally just after Christmas it started.
    We've had some problems with our ground workers who either seriously underestimated or didn't work very efficiently; in reality I think it was a combination of both. In the end they came to us and told us they were projecting such a financial overspend at their cost (fixed price quote) they simply could not afford to continue, and have now left the site.
    I know we can go to court here for breach of contract etc but to be honest I don't want to hold things up and have the expense of court fees etc, I'd rather just move on. We'd lost trust in both the ability and the scrupulousness.


    The final thing the ground worker did was to lay the foundation slab; we've got floating raft foundations, which will seat a timber frame on top. Where as the slab should be level to a tolerance of + / - 10mm, the timber frame company says ""The spot levels demonstrate +/- 26mm i.e.: a lowest point which is 52mm below the highest point""

    They go on to say:
    "We suggest that you construct 225mm high (the depth of the floor make-up) sleeper walls underneath all of the timber frame super structure walls which will give you the opportunity to remedy the difference in levels. In that way, after the timber frame super structure is complete and immediately prior to installing the floor make-up you can apply the horizontal membrane to the slab, over painted where it extends beyond the sleeper walls and install the floors straight away to protect the membranes."

    Have had a brief email conversation with building control about this idea and they say they cannot simply approve this idea without us going back to the structural engineer and/or architect for new plans.

    "The proposal of sleeper walls could be an option but this would be to an engineerĂ¢â‚¬â„¢s design and consideration will need to be given with regard to the damp proofing over the floor slab (must ensure the damp proofing method is fully continuous; using a cementious tanking system). Once the design or proposal has been drawn up please can you submit the details to me prior to carrying out the works on-site, from this I can assess the proposals and there implications on the Building Regulations."

    Obviously there's going to be further expense in getting around this which ever way we choose. At the moment I'd be quite glad to not have to go back through structural engineers costs plus the costs of remedial work though I accept we may have to.
    Are there other (reasonable) ways to level a slab?

    Help!

    Thanks
    Richard.
  1.  
    Depending on how thick your slab is you could talk to a concrete floor grinding/polishing company. The first step of polishing a floor is to grind it flat so they could grind out any high spots. You would obviously get a thinner slab if you ground too much off.


    From memory it costs about Ă‚Â£40/m2 for grinding, adding a densifier (to strengthen the concrete) and final polishing. You could ask about just grinding.

    I spoke to West Concrete Polishing and to Creation Flooring (google them).

    Alternatively could you not pour a second slab, say 75mm-100mm thick on top and just build your house 100mm higher than planned? That would depend on the ground loading etc so you might need a Strut eng but it should be a quick calc and a quick job to pour the over slab.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2010
     
    Surely there's some high-strength thin pour-screed-like product - cant be an unusual problem, to be solved quickly, in modern fast-track projects?
  2.  
    What about having a floor plate/sill plate custom made that will level the difference ready to receive the timber frame?
  3.  
    like dis
    • CommentAuthorJohan
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2010
     
    As Tom says just use some self levelling compound. Lots of brands around, Mapei, Dunlop, Granfix, Mira, etc, etc.
  4.  
    Then make up the difference for the interior floor finish using a screed.
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2010
     
    curb upstands or sleeper walls are a fairly common detail these days to allow level access into timber framed buildings, as the timber structure must be 150 mm above external ground level (where is your ground level in relation to the timber frame designed to be??)

    It does, however, require structural justification and an update to the wall/foundation interface drawings. This is not the end of the world, especially if your architect didn't put the kit 150 mm above external ground level in the first place.

    It is a perfectly do-able solution (I regularly see it, specify it and approve it), but will result in the above need to get a structural engineer to approve. You will also need to consider thermal bridging as the upstand can impact significantly on the thermal bridge at the foundation/wall interface, but there are work-arounds.

    The other options, assuming your timber frame is 150 mm above external ground level, would be to shim, pack and then wet bed the sole plate on mortar. This would be pritty simple.

    Simply cut and layout the sole plates, shim them at 1000 mm c/c to get it level, then lift and fill the gaps between the shims/packers with structural grout/mortar and wet bed the timbers (sitting on a dpc of course) and tempory fix them in place. Once the mortar has gone off the sole plate can be fixed to the foundations at centres spec'd by the structural engineer using fixings long enough to get penetration and hold into the slab.

    I personally would go for the wet bed solution (assuming your timbers are high enough out of the ground) as it is a really simple and workable solution that will require minimal extra cost, time and complexity.

    Once the frame is in and weather tight, the floor insulation and screed can be installed and either more insulation or screed added to compensate for the level differences in the screed. (More insulation!

    Hope that is of some assistance.

    Timber
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2010
     
    I would leave a 100mm gap at the lowest point to let the water out and I would also remove the shims as I went along too.
  5.  
    Hi Richard,

    Do you intend to use a sand and cement screed as a floor finish? If so it may be possible to substitute the screed for Agelia self levelling concrete and do it now rather than later.

    I used this for the first time recently and it really is 'self levelling' I laid 80m2 in about half an hour on my own and ended up with a surface like glass -

    See
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yMHnGOnuhU

    My only worry would be about the minimum thickness you could go down to so suggest checking with the techies at Lafarge first.

    Cost wise I used 100mm of agelia replacing the 100mm traditional concrete and 50mm screed - less material and cheaper! Saved a fortune on labour as well.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2010
     
    That is truly amazing - revoultionary - to see you not in smart/office clothes, Mike! No, seriously, it's a dream isn't it. Can it do everything that ordinary conc can do e.g. if it's a reinf slab or even a rigid structural raft, with downstands etc? What if upstands are needed, cast over starter bars later? Wd ordinary conc be used for that, bonding to this stuff, or more of the same?
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2010
     
    That's brilliant, Mike.
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2010 edited
     
    Just don't tell you know who...

    The concrete comes in at 700 [yes 700] slump. When it is poured it is just like watching the tide come in. A quick walk around in wellies and it is virtually flat. The delivery truck brought the tapping bar with them.

    Some important points though.

    Insulation must be BELOW the DPM or it will float
    Also there must be no gaps in the membrane or you will be needing a second delivery...
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2010
     
    Apologies for off-topic

    Mike, there seems to be a lot of liquid. Does that disappear in a reaction or does it evaporate out leaving shrinkage? In other words, can you set levels to a datum when liquid?
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2010 edited
     
    Not so off topic Mark- I genuinely think this may solve Rich's problem

    Re, datums, I don't know about the chemistry but there is no discernable shrinkage on the floor I did. Also very level - I was at the job today and ran a 3m aliminium straight edge over it - as good as any screed I have seen [and better than many].
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeApr 3rd 2010
     
    And I bet your back is thankfull as well! Thanks for posting.
  6.  
    Hi RT

    Sitting the TF directly on a cold slab may not be the best idea. It creates a temperature diferential in the timber frame which could cause condensation and decay. The Scandinavians stopped pouring secondary screeds in the early 90's because there were a number of court cases over this issue. It can also be problematic having the TF lower than the floor if you get a leak in your kitchen, utility or bathroom.
    My first instict would be to try and sit your TF walls on a layer of structural EPS or XPS. This can be cut in wedge shapes using a hot wire at the production plant.
    You could also put shimms under the Timber Frame at 400-600mm centres and fill in between the shimms with PU foam.
  7.  
    Just to clarify I wasn't suggesting pouring the agelia above the level of the timber frame foot plates, I was suggesting pouring it over the whole oversite, and then building the timber frame on top of it in the conventional way.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 5th 2010
     
    I'd go with Mikes suggestion. Set up new form work accurately with a laser level so you have at least the minimium thickness everywhere. I'm not familiar with agelia but I wouldn't rely on ordinary self levelling screed being self levelling, make sure you have people on hand to do it.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 5th 2010 edited
     
    If you did want to go after the original company you would need to give them oportunity to rectify the defects. That typically means writing to them recorded delivery giving them about two weeks (a date rather than weeks) to rectify by. Point out that if they haven't done so by then you reserve the right to apoint someone to rectify it. You would need to get a few quotes and go with the cheapest. Then you could go to the court with copies of the letters and quotes to try and get the money refunded... but winning is no guarantee you will get paid. At the very least I would write to your local trading standards with an honest account of the facts.

    Consider posting a write up here.. http://www.blagger.com/
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