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  1.  
    I know. The drilling company has not seen it before in 30 yrs. Just my luck,
    Gusty.
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2011
     
    Gusty, What is happening? Are you making progress?...........Topher.
  2.  
    Topher- 3x holes done @ 76mtrs each. I have water flowing from 1 bore but I am not sure yet how I can make best use of it. The complication is still being dealt with so I am not posting regarding the matter yet. It is not going to be settled quickly though. I am still looking forward to seeing how my GSHP performs when I am eventually in the house though,
    Gusty.
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2011
     
    15 June 2011. Report 22.

    Just got back to the house after a period away. The pressure on the secondary underfloor heating circuit was unchanged. Good.

    The pressure on the borehole circuits was zero. Bad. This is the second time there has been a problem with this circuit. Previously the problem was a cracked brass pipe fitting in the manifold where 8 pipes from the two boreholes (4 pipes per borehole) are joined to the large diameter supply and return pipes to the heat pump. Dominique the installer said it was a defective part. Everyone else who has looked it it says it was overtightened. The high density black polythene pipes are very stiff and hard to manipulate. They are joined to the brass manifold with a threaded fitting which holds the pipe and compresses a gland. I understand this is an old technology used for the cold water supply into the house.

    It is possible to obtain plastic fittings which are melted to the pipe with a heating element enclosed in the fitting. As I understand it, the fitting has a bar code which is scanned, then a special piece of equipment passes the right current for the right period of time to form a good melted joint. This appears to be a better method of obtaining a secure joint. However if a problem does occur the repair is much more expensive.

    I have assumed that the leak is in this manifold. I could be wrong. It might be underground. I really hope not.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2011
     
    Really not good at all. Boo hiss. Bv<

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorDantenz
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2011
     
    I have come across re-ocurring leaks on the collector circuit on certain joint types and it is usually where plastic to metal connections are involved. I believe it is to do with the different rates of expansion & contraction of the differing materials and no matter how well the joint is made with sealant etc it still leaks. I can only recommend that you consult with the fittings manufacturer for joint compatibility if indeed this is the cause of leakage.
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 18th 2011
     
    Dantez,

    Thanks. That is interesting. The first leak happened when the heat pump was running. The cause, was a crack in a brass fitting. It got fixed. The the pump ran for most of the winter, so it was constantly temperature cycling. Then is was shut off. Still no leak. But during a period of absence of about two months the leak happened.

    I have just had a search to try and find it. It might be in the manifold, but there is no evidence of pink antifreeze. If it does turn out to be in the manifold, I will do as you suggest and ask about differing rates of expansion.

    Naturally the repair is not urgent as we have all summer and autumn to pass before it becomes urgent. I will have to encourage Dominique to give it some attention.

    Regards,.......Topher.
    .
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2011
     
    23 June 2011. Report 23.

    Dominique came this morning to find out why I had zero pressure in the borehole circuits. He could not find any leaks. He re-pressurised the system to 1.7 bar and asked me to monitor it for any pressure drop.

    The explanation is that there was a pocket of air trapped in the system which had been there since installation, or had formed with air coming out of the water/antifreeze mixture. Eventually it moved to one of the automatic air vents and escaped. This caused the pressure drop.

    Lets hope this is the end of all the interventions and the future will just be using and tweaking.
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2011
     
    Grrrrrr. This morning it is 1.3 bar, yesterday it was 1.7. Will have to monitor it daily
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2011 edited
     
    Hi Topher, I presume the ground loops are HDPE? With welded joints outside?
    At what points during installation was the ground loop pressure tested?

    We've got a fairly new install here. All seems to be working OK but we don't have a pressure gauge on the ground loop. Perhaps should.
    • CommentAuthorMunsterGuy
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2011
     
    Hi all, just came across this super forum today and just had to subscribe. The contributions here are so informative. I am currently doing a self build here in Ireland and I have opted to go for a ground source geo thermal heat pump on the advice of my plumber. From what I have seen on here and from what I am experiencing , it doesn't seem to be as straight forward as I thought it would be. My house is about 2400 sq/ft. Initially, I decided to go for an oil condensing boiler, radiators, put in the underfloor heating pipes on the ground floor (with the intention of getting a heat pump in a few years time when they may be less expensive), solid fuel stoves (one with back boiler for rads and one without) and solar panels. We worked away with that in mind but then he started on about the geothermal option as he has done them in a few jobs, my opinion of geothermal was is that its very expensive and that was off putting plus the fact it is not widely used here in Ireland (though its gaining in popularity). Anyway, when we did the sums, by taking out the costs of rads, solar panels, oil boiler, back boiler in stove, it was more or less close enough to what a geothermal setup wud cost. So I decided to take the plunge and go with it, first it was decided to go with the ground loop around the garden but the plumber then had another bright idea suggesting to go for bore holes instead as the cost of landscaping the garden and getting a track machine to move two big mounds of earth would almost cost the same as drilling the bore holes, plus bore holes give me the flexibility to do what I wish with the garden. I also know of a guy whose ground loop completely froze over in the winter of 2009 and he had no heating for most of that winter. I guess the loop was not buried deep enough. My plumber uses Thermia heat pumps supplied by the Irish distributor for them (Heatlink) and I sent my house plans to them so they could come up with a suitable system. They specified a Thermia Diplomat Optimum G2 8kw and that to me sounds fine, is 8kw output enough for a 2400 sq/ft house?. My house is of block built construction with cavity of aprox 150mm which will be pumped with a platinum bead insulation, the internal of the external facing walls will be dry lined with a 50mm insulated slab and the roof will have 150 mm metac insultation. Insulation should be adequate enough at that I think. I have kind of let the plumber work away so far with all that but I am now in the process of organising the electricity connection and had to contact the Heat pump distributer (Heatlink) for info on the starting current using soft starter, min time between starts and max current, I filled out the form for the electricity supply and opted for 16kva supply as recommended by the electricity which is more expensive than the standard 12kva supply. However, I think Heatlink quoted me for a 400 volt 3 phase heat pump and I don't 16kva will run that?, that same pump is available in 230 volts single phase so I must contact Heatlink on Monday to clarifiy that and also to check the figures that they supplied me for the electricity company, hope it was not figures for a 3 phase system! The next thing that I am in the process of doing is to organise the drilling of the bore holes and i am being asked by the drillers, how deep, how many holes, and where to locate them and sure I have no idea :confused:, so I asked the plumber and he says, go 200 meters deep ( either 1 x 200 m or 2 x 100m) keep the holes as close to the house as possible, sounds ok, then I rang Heatlink and they said max depth of 180 metres or so, 200 meters could put pressure on the heat pump trying to pump up from that depth?, he also said keep the bore holes as close to the house as possible, is there any issue with drilling doing damage to the foundations of the house or the structure itself? and he also said that if I were to use 2 bole holes, they must be a minimum of 10 metres apart which seems to be the general consensus on here. The gound itself is peaty, mud and deeper down is 'pencil's which should be ok for drilling, as long as I don't meet limestone rock. I am not sure about water maybe there is some 50 meters down, should I aim to drill where there is water? or should I avoid? I assume beause the ground is peaty and pencily that there should be no issue with the bore hole drying out, esp in the Irish climate with all the rainfall?. Nobody has mentioned anything to me on all this nor about grout in the bore hole etc. This forum has opened my eyes and I am now afraid that my job wont be done correctly as I do not have enough knowledge to ask the proper questions etc. My plumber is very good to be fair to him and he is very particular about getting things right and he has successfully installed a few of them and there are no problems. I know a few people that have geothermal and in general they are happy but it seems that a successful system is down to the installer doing a good job and not taking any shortcuts. I am a little worried and confused but an optimist :bigsmile: Have a look on www.boards.ie and find the thread on heat pumps / geothermal there are a few interesting tales of irish peoples experiences, the cost of running some peoples systems is scary and all probably down to being not properly installed and commissioned as was mentioned on this forum
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    Sprocket, Hi,

    No the ground loops were not pressure tested. You have pointed out another lessons-learned item. With hindsight they should have been. The borehole company has a 10 year insurance with Axa so I may be OK from a cost of repair point of view, but I will have to suffer the upheaval if the leak is underground.

    The 8 pipes from the 4 borehole loops go into a manifold made from brass fittings (not welded - another lessons learned perhaps) . One of these leaked previously but after repair, and for the rest of the winter heating season the pressure has been constant. It only dropped after the heat pump had been switched off - very strange.

    Yesterday and today is much hotter and the pressure which had dropped to 0.5 bar is now 0.6 bar. There are lots of things above ground which could be causing the loss of pressure.

    I think a pressure gauge would be a good idea, should not cost much. Get one with a pointer that you can set to the actual reading - much easier to spot a drop. You should also have a filter on the flow into the heat exchanger.

    When I had the first leak the heat-pump shutdown automatically as it could not get enough heat from the primary circuit.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    Air-source heat-pump is sounding more attractive by the day!

    Thanks for all the updates...

    (I bumped in to the altherma people at an exhibition where I happened to be flogging solar panels yesterday, and I'm told that things have improved a lot since I last checked and I should be able to get a decent CoP and DHW without immersion with their kit.)

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    Damon, I believe that the best COP is when the heat source is a well, river or lake and the water is pumped straight into the heat exchanger of the heat pump. Most of us don't have this choice.

    I guess if you were really keen, you could work out the relative cost savings of each type of heat pump. You could then work out the break even date and see if you would live long enough to get your money back for the one with the highest COP.

    Regards,.........Topher.
    .
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    I just don't have the ground-space or accessibility for drilling boreholes without enormous heroics I think, so that unless the CoP difference is utterly compelling ASHP looks a lot less problematic.

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011 edited
     
    Posted By: DamonHDASHP looks a lot less problematic

    If you can get PP for it that is. As you have gas you will not be able to claim RHI (though the wording is vague) so no point in delaying, the sooner you do it the better as we will all know how it performs. Get the manufactures on board and blog it, they will like that. :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    PP sounds like it will no longer be an issue in practice though I would need to formally apply.

    I am giving Daikin another run today and will be looking at mid-winter CoPs, etc, and asking them to run a desktop simulation.

    (In progress http://www.earth.org.uk/note-on-Homebuilding-and-Renovating-Show-2011.html )

    But I think we're wandering away from Topher's single-handed task to educate the world about the gnarly bits of GSHP!

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    Hey Guys,

    Remember that GSHP is a hobby of mine, including the gnarly bits. It was my choice, approved by Mrs Topher fortunately, to proceed. So I have to accept the little difficulties that arrive from time to time.

    One thing you may find interesting. In the local French Estate Agency there is a list of properties for sale. Each one has an energy rating like a fridge, you know with a green bar for the 'A' rating going down to B, C, D, E and so on. Most of the houses have fuel oil heating and have C, D or E ratings.

    When I put my house up for sale I hope it will be A rated. Still, it probably wont sell any faster!

    Regards,.........Topher.
    .
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2011
     
    Here in the UK we now have the mandatory EPC "Energy Performance Certificate" but I had to work hard to get friends buying to even consider the rating for example.

    (I had our house assessed a little while ago and we were 'B' but I hope that any re-assessment would find us at 'A'!)

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 28th 2011
     
    Damon, One of my friends here in France has a ASHP. It is installed near a low window to his cellar. He has fitted up some simple ducting so that the fan in the ASHP draws air through the window from his cellar. So this gives a much better COP when the ambient is very low.

    I asked if he found that cold air was being drawn into the house, or if the floors were very cool. He says he does not notice any difference.

    So a cunning plan, if you have an ASHP which can take air from a cellar, it could be a good way of getting better results.

    Regards,..........Topher.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 28th 2011
     
    Posted By: topherSo a cunning plan, if you have an ASHP which can take air from a cellar, it could be a good way of getting better results

    Or a conservatory/green house when it is in the temperature sweetspot. Think we had a thread about an ASHP drawing air from a garage.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 28th 2011
     
    To have a cellar I'd need to excavate, yielding a brown artesian well from the nest of neighbourhood sewers that converge under our property.

    However, as someone has pointed out here, that doesn't stop them being a source of 'free' warmth sometime in the future... The snow already melts noticeably faster over some of them!

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeJun 28th 2011 edited
     
    Hi Topher, thanks for sharing. It's scary stuff given the costs and hearing from anyone else that is ahead of us is a big help (even if it's not going well sometimes).

    Our ground-loop manifolds are plastic (POM). I noticed though that the same manufacturer does not supply POM in the US, they use brass there instead... something to do with a big class action suite and chlorine in domestic water some years ago. I briefly considered importing US brass manifolds but of course the sizes are all wrong.

    We have no joints at all outside the building but inside close to the manifolds we just have several big (42mm pipe) plastic compression joints. We did initially have some seepage (leak is too strong a word really) that seemed to be down to scratches in the pipe surface (probably from when the drill-collar was removed) but scouring/polishing the the pipe ends seemed to fix that. Right now it seems to be holding up fine but it's pretty warm so it's hardly been in use much. I guess our first winter in a few months time will tell. I can see there is a lot of value in having an installer that can stick around and be available to look at stuff.

    I am also "firmly convinced" that GSHP is the way to go for us. We have a lot of groundwater flow below us. That said, the boreholes were way over the already costly budget so I would be inclined to warn anyone against that uncertainty caused by unpredictable geology. In theory our geology was very predicted.. the predictions were just worng (way over simplified) from what I can tell. I guess geology is complicated.

    I do wish I could have gone for a fixed-price on the drilling. Here in the UK it's much more common to go with slinkies and if you don't mid digging up a large area I can see why - it is much more predictable. I found our groundwater flow hard to resist but the borehole problems have cost quite a big initial investment.

    At least if we do have any leaks it should not be hard to see where they are I suppose.

    Damon, my big concern about ASHP is that it is not there when you need it most. There would be little heat available on the coldest days when it is -10C outside. If you have a decent buffer/thermal store and a backup system like biomass (or a fireplace) and time to look after it then presumably that is no big deal (we are 100% GSHP here).
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2011
     
    My preferred ECO-CUTE R744 systems laugh in the face of -10C ambient, but yes, it does seem a shame not to be able to use that huge heat store under our feet directly.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2011
     
    Damon,

    So what COP does your favourite heat pump have at -10 degrees? Mine is 4.25 and is the same at any ambient temperature.

    Does the delta COP over say 10 years save enough to pay for a borehole in your challenging borehole country?

    :bigsmile:

    Regards,............Topher
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2011
     
    Hi MunsterGuy,

    It looks like you have a very interesting project ahead. I have been though it, and I am pleased with the result. I am an enthusiastic amateur, so beware, I may be mistaken. I hope others will correct me. Reading through your post, I have the following suggestions.

    1. Boreholes. I think the most important thing is to follow the guidance of the heat pump manufacturer. I have Nibe, a Swedish company, and I am very pleased with it. I suggest you compare Nibe prices and performance with Thermia. Nibe technical support is good. They have recently changed the recommendation from one or two very deep boreholes to a larger number of less deep ones. At this stage, it is the best policy to oversize the boreholes heat giving capacity. Having an excess will not be a problem, having too little will prevent the heat pump working properly. Having the bore holes close to the house is not a bad idea. My bore hole drillers could only do 120 meters max - 180 or 200 seems too much. I think the best advice is the heat pump manufacturer’s advice. Remember that different types of ground have different conductivities. Bore hole people should know about this.

    Ask for spacers in the bore holes as you will get better heat transmission. I am not sure about grout . I believe that in the future, grout will be a legal requirement. It will put up the price. If your ground is nice and wet you probably wont need grout. I had a water diviner to find the water on my site. He was accurate, I had the two boreholes put where he said the water was. Why not get a water diviner to look at your site, it does not cost much. Do get a minimum of three quotes for the boreholes, and the installation. Also ask what warranty they will give you for the work, and visit their recent installations.

    The boreholes and trenches will wreck the site, but as you are having a new build, I guess it does not matter. I would recommend that you get agreement between all the contractors about making good after the drilling and trenching. Drilling 100 meters makes a lot of spoil, it has to go somewhere. About 6 months after the groundwork is done, everything will probably sink a bit, and more ground work will be needed.

    2. Heating Calculations. You must get these right. 2400 sq. ft is 223 sq. meters. I have 177 sq. meters and a 15 kW heat pump which should give me 19 degrees inside with -10 outside. Your figure of 8 Kw seems low, but your insulation could be the bee’s knees. My 15 Kw is a bit on the high side, but with Nibe you can make compensation to adjust for short cycling. Of course if your heat pump has insufficient capacity, it will run continuously, but not heat the house enough on a cold day. I would get a second and third opinion on the heat calculations.

    3. Radiators versus underfloor. Heat pumps are ideally suited to underfloor heat. Their efficiency (COP) is better at the low temperatures (35 degrees) than at 55 or 60 needed for radiators. Fifty five or sixty is the most they can do for radiators and this is on the low side, so radiators have to be bigger that usual with oil or gas. Underfloor heat is the most comfortable way to heat your house. It is very stable and has the advantages of clear walls everywhere. If at all possible have underfloor heat throughout the house. It can be zoned. Each zone can have its own thermostat. You can shut off or reduce the temperature in little used areas. The only disadvantage for me is the huge thermal inertia of underfloor heat - you are heating up a large block of concrete, it takes time to change, but once correct, it is very stable.

    4. Electricity Supply. If you have a 16 Kw 3 phase supply, that will be 16/3 = 5.3 Kw per phase. Lets suppose the 8 Kw heat pump has a COP of 4.0, so its consumption will be 8/4 = 2 Kw or 0.7 Kw per phase. Now when the heat pump is running you will have a spare capacity of 5.3 - 0.7 = 4.6 Kw per phase. If you have a dishwasher or washing machine running, say 3.0 Kw, that only leaves a margin of 1.6 Kw per phase. If you think of lighting, fridge, TV and so on, I don't think you have enough. Just my view, others may disagree. Get 2 or 3 more opinions.

    5. Commissioning. This is very arrogant, but after having the installer and the heat pump manufacturer carrying out a commissioning process, which I paid for, I don't think they did a very good job. I think my observations and tweaks has got it near optimum. This arrogant old git thinks that he could have done it all himself without having to pay for an external commissioning, however it did increase the warranty on the heat pump from one to three years.

    6. Summary. Don't commit to spending any money until you have done the most complete research possible. Do get three fixed price quotations for any work. Do make sure that making good after the hole and trench work is properly sorted. Good luck. I would be happy to do private messages (whisper comments) if that would help.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2011
     
    Topher: don't know CoP exactly in those conditions but I believe it to still be better than ~2.5 generating DHW at 50C so lower footprint than gas.

    Since our entire energy bill is circa £500/year I don't think any delta-CoP would pay for the extra work, though I'm still sorely tempted from a footprint pov and I suspect that we probably have moving groundwater too.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthortopher
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2011
     
    Damon,

    If you have groundwater and can take the heat from it and then get rid of it you can have a CoP of up to 5.77 from a Nibe product.

    So if we assume 2.5 for the ASHP at - 10 degrees, you will have a delta CoP of 3.27.

    Although you only pay £500/year this will increase at 5 to 15% pa compound, as we all pay for all the wind farms. I wonder if it would then be worth it.

    Regards,.........Topher.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2011 edited
     
    Posted By: topherAlthough you only pay £500/year this will increase at 5 to 15% pa compound, as we all pay for all the wind farms. I wonder if it would then be worth it.


    Wages go up too and that negates the increase. You can't sell a product or service to people that cannot afford it.
    If we get 5 to 15% on medium term savings in the near future that makes the FITs seem less attractive. It all balances out in the end. Supply and Demand, one of two economic theories that always holds true.

    But back to the -10C and COP, this is not really relevant as it is an extreme event. What you need to calculate is the COP when you need the heat. This can be split into two parts, Space Heating and DHW and compared to HDDs for your area. Then pick a system that fits that profile best.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2011
     
    Indeed.

    And in the absence of clarity on RHIs, GPDOs, uncle-tom-cobbly, etc, I have been putting off that detailed exercise while I do other things.

    But yes, I'm still wavering like an environment minister's priorities...

    Rgds

    Damon
   
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