What do you guys think to this web site about the health hazards of burning wood: http://burningissues.org/car-www/index.html

The log boilers that the american survey is talking about are the old fashioned ones which simply have a water jacket around a steel firebox. They dont burn the gasses produced by the wood (gassification) and due to the cooling effect of the water round the firebox the fire doesnt burn very hot and lots of smoke and particulates are released (seen in photo to the side) a gassifying log boiler will release very little particulate matter as it will all have been burnt (apart form the initial fire up).

On the positioning of the expansion vessel, I am confised too as it appears that there are two closed circuits involved which would need two expansion vessels. The one between the laddomat and boiler is a closed system until you are up to temperature and would need to be a smaller vessel, the larger one then needs to be linked to the size of the overall system. Everyone I ask gives a different answer!

From the research the BAxi boiler seems a better machine, it has lots of extar insulation around the body of the boiler, a lot more water in the boiler itself and has a glass window to see the flame to helo in adjusting the secondary airflow. It is an older machine design, does anyone know if the Atmos compares?

Advice needed!
I have done various calculations and reckon on getting approx 30kW log boiler (probably Atmos), I already have a 1500l accumulator. The Atmos site recomend using a 2-2500l accumulator for the 32kW boiler. Have I underdone it and what are the problems? I presume it just gives me less leeway for accidents ie overheating/dumping and the fire will just switch off more often leaving a dirty burn each time.

Is there anyone in the southwest here with a log boiler that would allow a visit?

Adam

Adwindrum,

My boiler is 20kw with 1200l accumulator and gets to 85c top and 60c bottom of tank in 3-4 hours so yes I would think you have underdone it. Also our house has only 6 rads and hot water to take care of, if your house is any bigger I heartily reccomend you follow Atmos advice!

Hmm thought as much. I was taking the advice of a local installer/"heating engineer" who was grant affiliated, who turned out to be rubbish (along with all other local grant affiliated ones!) but with accumulator delivered.

I guess options are to burn less wood in boiler in one fill, burn less often, run another accumulator in parrallel or have the second tank for domestic hot water at a higher temp all the time. Firing the boiler when rads are in full flow must also allow a fair amount of dumping. Some options can be done with experience in time, others need thinking through now. Doh!

On your atmos boilers are any of them the GS options with exhaust fans, cooling coil and extra ceramics? Its another 500 quid and I was wondering if it was worth it? An axhaust fan can be fitted for £300, the honeywell cooling coil bought for £85 so its only the extra ceramics....is the extra mileage from boiler worth it? The exhaust does sound useful for reloading of the boiler without a blast of smoke.

For potential buyers Kotly.com has the cheapest boilers..cheaper than from the factory in czech even.

Otto,

I'm on the Essex Suffolk Border too (Sudbury Area) and am mid installation - let me know if you want to take a look.

MJN

mjn

That's great news. I'm in the Nayland area. Would it be possible to view this weekend ?

Regards

Otto

reply to adwindrum tried kopley.com but comes up no result

For WWWatsthat

Its www.kotley.com

A while back we started looking at wood boilers (and if anyone's in the south west I'd look no further than Dunster Wood Fuels who were incredibly helpful) but eventually decided against mainly for practical and space reasons, but then went back to pellets, but I can't believe how hard it has been. They say it isn't easy being green but how hard does it need to be, most quotes ranged from £8k to £15k for an installed system, for a heat requirement of 8.5kw that's ten times the price of oil or LPG.

So our final solution (after much searching) is from www.greenenergysupplies.co.uk, Bio Comfort boiler, Opop boiler, screw feed and silo, for £2750 ex VAT ex works, pellets from www.ecowoodfuels.co.uk.

I really struggle to understand why finding reasonably priced equipment should be quite so difficult, but in the end we'll get Navitron panels and a wood pellet boiler for about £5k self installed, a year ago the first quote I got for an identical setup was £20+.

Pontius,
If your out all day, why have the heating on, ever heard of global warming

Pontius

Have you thought about wood chip? try Dunster wood fuels.

Posted By: Mike (Up North)If we had to carry bucket loads of kerosene or drag balloons of gas to our homes we’d almost certainly consume much much less.

We heat our caravan with diesel and have to fill up every few days. The cooking and hot water is on bottled gas and we've just seen a 25% price increase, so there is every reason to care about fuel economy - and that is being fed into our requirements for our house design. 'Living small' for a while before building is quite an object lesson in what matters. :-)

Hi,
If it is of use to anyone I have been running a Froling 30 kw since last May. We have solar hot water and only needed the boiler about once in 3 days in the summer but every day in winter. I have burnt 8 cu mtrs of soft wood in that time which has cost me £80 so I anticipate about £130 for the year.It is attached to a 1800 ltr accumulator and provides central heating and DHW.One load heats the tank to 75 top 65 bottom and is all we need for 24 hrs. It is a 3 bed detached house. The installation on a turn key basis cost £15000 but I had a grant ( as a small business B&B )for £7500 from the forestry comm. through WEBBS. One purchase that has made life easy is a firewood processor, Palax, bought second hand. I can cut and split I cu mtr in less than 2 hrs.

Dont know how automated log burners are, might have to look at wood chip boilers ???

Have you done all you can to reduce heating load by insulating and draught proofing. This is by far the most cost effective thing to do as whatever heating system you get, it will need to be fed with costly fuel.
(apologies to Tony if I am stepping onto his turf here )