Hi

Yes, thanks the mixing valve has been sorted, that was an issue when we were getting luke warm water.
I hear what you are saying, but tell me this why sell a 750l tank if it no use..you know what i mean...750l in a house serving only 2 people should be sufficient.

The main issue is when the radiators are turned on, they just drop the tanks temp from 80 degrees plus, right down to 40 degrees...this is a concern as the result of that causes us not to have suitable heated hot water.

Plus the biggest problem is the amount of wood. There is no way i am going to spend £100 per month on wood at the rate this is going...

I will reserve my comments about Perge...i am in the middle there..lets say i'm a happily disappointed customer...

Thanks for the reply and comments....really appreciated

HI Mike

It is a new build, so from an insulation point of view we are good.
I am not sure about the returning temperature, i am going to speak to Perge, i just spoke to one of their guys and he also believes that something is not correct here, he believes that 750l should be OK. Yes 1500 would be better, that is logical, but 750 surely should do the job..well i believe it should, i may be wrong and probably am, but then why sell it if it is not efficient enough to maintain a good running heat...

Thanks Guys, any advice is welcomed...

Hi Mike

I understand what you are saying, I am not a plumber, so i ask questions, questions will give me answers, the accuracy is not important, it is more the fact of getting answers as this is a new system to me and others have most like been there, done that.

Yesterday i seemed to make some headway, firstly the instructions that came with the thermomatic k are rubbish, so what we have done is placed the Thermostat Wire to the wrong pipe.

Today i will fix that and see if the TK will make a difference.

Holding thumbs and working with fingers only...

Thanks again
Barry

Point taken..

I built my house in the last year, i have 100mm Insulation in the slab and 30mm above under a floating floor. 100mm in the Cavity, 130mm in the loft(celotex 100 between and 30 under), So it is well insulated.

I suppose wood burners may not be Green but they are renewable and that i suppose is a step in the right direction.

I found a simple form and filled out the basics and the result was i needed a 10kw, i have a 20 which covers any descrepencies..

No worries Mike, any advice is appreciated.
What i am trying to do is understand this whole set up, it is very confusing.

I now have the ThermK set up correctly, yhe therm wire is now attached to the flow between the house and the valve and not the valve and the tank :( , Just a lack of instructions from Thermomatic K documents.

I will try what you say, i will set the TK to maybe 40 Degrees to start off with and see how that goes, i am holding thumbs to see if it improves the storage water, i mean without that TK the central heating was just taking all the hot water and the tank would not increase in temparature.

I am really hoping this will work...i suppose lack of knowledge from my point of view is making it more frustrating. In all fairness the concept and logic behind this set up seems fantastic, it is just to get the optimal set up without burning to much wood...

If at first i don't succeed get a bigger blanket out...:)

Bowman, funny you say that, i just had a friend come over, he had a look at the wood and said that it does not look seasoned...and yes i do hear it sizzle...

Thanks for the advice Bowman, i never thought that slightly damp wood will make such a difference. Will that wet wood also burn faster then dry wood?

What do you mean the Ash goes in the Use pile...can Ash be burnt unseasoned, because the wood i have is Ash. So i was just told a few minutes back by my buddy.

Another question...Would it help if i put bigger logs in the fire. Why i ask is the Perge can take logs 30cm wide by Half a metre, so would an-split log be better then a split log?

Great advice..Thank You

I've just picked up this thread, barlee, I hope you don't mind me intruding. I think your problems stem from several possible causes. The wood you are using seems far to wet, as Bowman has indicated, the calorific value of dry wood is much better and you will notice a difference. I think your boiler is a tad undersized, my experience is, to some extent, forget the "normal" calculations regarding boiler size, this methodology is about batch burning. Although you do seem to have been smart in selecting the larger 20kw model. In a nutshell the bigger the boiler and the bigger the store the less batch burning you will need. There is a trade off, obviously, the size of your pocket, and the ammount of space you have available. Your store, I think, is also undersized, a rough rule of thumb generally is at least 50l per kw output of the boiler for your 20kw boiler thats at least 1000l . If you have the space you could put in another plain tank, "no coils", in tandem, there by doubling your storage. When you do a burn, your boiler is not only trying to satisfy your CH demand,- in winter a continuous load,- but also recharge the store. You can't really expect that much from a 4hr burn, with damp wood, with a 20kw boiler. How Perge managed to originally suggest 10kw puzzles me. Regarding your wood usage, how does your £100 equate to cu mtrs. For a winter month with a daily burn it doesn't sound too bad? Since late March I'm only burning every other day and I recon by May I'll only be lighting up every 3-4 days. I don't have any supplementary heat input into the store at the moment but I'm toying with the Idea of solar. I have the spare unused coil. I try not to let my store get below 60C. especially in winter, and solar I understand could keep that base temperature for me, thereby just leaving the boiler to provide the "top up" to 90C.

i have an atmos and you light it, walk,come back 15-30 mins later (very flexible), then a couple of hours later to top up. 3000l is BIG but more efficent with less surface area to volume than small ones. if you have space go big.

Thanks, Ad & Owlman - useful stuff.

The other thing I am having a tough time getting my head round, is whether I need 2 coils in the accumulator (HW & CH), or just 1 for the hot water i.e. is it better to have 'black water' circulating thru my radiators, or to heat the CH water via the 'heat exchanger' (coil)?

Sorry to but in, but my plumber is just about to begin the installation of an Atmos DC25s with 1500l buffer tank.
I'm slightly insecure about the flue. I know it needs to be a twin wall and 5 metres in height. I am wondering if it is better to put a 90 degree bend from the flue exiting the wall or should i use two 45 degree bends - also, should I try to keep the flue as straight as possible or ould I put another two 45 degree bends in it uo further to bring it out through the slates?

Also, my plumber does not think that there is a need for a mixing valve with the system. Has anyone installed without one?

Finally in reply to the poster above, I got a 1500l buffer tank from Kotly, Its huge, unbelieveably huge, almost too big - I have to take joists out of my garage to get it in. I would recommend the 3 x 1000l tanks if you are limited in space or height in any way.

Any feedback on the flue and mixing valve would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Mike,

I have a laddomat 21 in the package. I actually meant the mixing valve at the start of the CH circuit. If I didn't put one on it, would my boiler / heating system perform differently?

While I will be installing the flue in accordance to the building regs, I was just wondering what other people have done with regard to the atmos bouler to ensure that there is the correct chimney draught. My boiler has a straight flue the back of it and it doesn't have too much information with it about ho long this straingh piece needs to be before I can put the 90 bens or 45 bend on it. I was going to add half a metre to it to all it through the garage wall and then put a 90 on it and bring it up on the outside wall. But it is only 3 meters to the eve and I would need to go 2 metres above the eve to meet the requested height of 5m. Would it be safe to have 2m above the eve without having a bracket bolted to the wall to support it?

Thanks for you input, its appreciated.

Dan

hi Malt5,
Sorry, can't help with your specific boiler choice, although the phrase; "jack of all trades, master of none", does spring to mind. It may work fine,- are you worried about not being around enough to feed a simple log burner? What type of boiler do you have at the moment?

for reilig,
The water in the store can reach in excess of 90 degrees, at close last night mine was 94 degrees top to bottom. Obviously that near boiling water has to be regulated before you use it for CH., so you will definitely need some sort of control/mixing/blending valve before it enters your rads. For my money "smart" controls are the way forward, variable speed pumps etc. For the twin wall do you intend to run it outside the line of the gutter? Just guessing, I think you will need at least 2 supports for a 5 mtr length, possibly 3. Can't you run it inside the garage?

Mike

I have one last question for anyone with a gasification boiler. I presume that you all have twin wall stainless steel flues on them. How do you clean your flue? Can it be cleaned back into the boiler or do you have a T on the flue for access or do you just have a 90 bend with access for cleaning. I suspect that a T might be a fire hazard by holding soot?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Daniel