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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Finalising order for an ASHP and two woodburning stoves. Need to size units, rads and UFH etc.

    I need to provide some heat loss calculations. Is there some formula or program I can use? I have detail of all insulation materials, walls, windows etc.

    Is there anyone out there who can help?

    Rose
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2010
     
    I would advise getting the system designed/specified by a professional so you have some come back if it doesn't perform.

    Thermal store with that set up?
  2.  
    Woodburners only for space heating - not part of wet system.

    Was hoping for my own peace of mine. Everytime I consult a professional the advice is a little different. How complicated is it, to get a reasonably accurate estimation room by room?

    R
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2010
     
    That's what a SAP assessor does, with training, and takes a few hours maybe. So non-trivial to get it reasonably accurate I think, though not impossible.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2010
     
    Heat loss calcs are simple (if you use the standard 'assuming steady state' arrangement). You can take the simple 'whole house' approach or do it per-room. Whole house is very simple. Worksheet here:
    http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Publication-Download/?p=1&pid=229

    For per-room, you do the same thing - work out area and U-value of each wall/wall-segment/window/door, then use temp diff across each wall/whatever to get heat-loss.
    Then add some estimate for ventilation losses.

    \I did a spreadsheet for my house - you'll need to change things around for your own layout quite a lot:
    Gumeric: http://wookware.org/heating/Househeating.gumeric
    Excel: http://wookware.org/heating/Househeating.xls

    All of this ignores daily weather and heating variations, so takes no account of decrement delay. Similarly using areal U-values ignores the psi-values of junctions, which is fine so long as your building isn't too well insulated, in which case it becomes increasingly innaccurate. To get a really accurate estimation you need to use PHPP (which costs 140 quid). That's almost certainly overkill.
  3.  
    Posted By: wookeyTo get a really accurate estimation you need to use PHPP (which costs 140 quid). That's almost certainly overkill.
    Or use something like hot2000, which is free and does a whole-year simulation based on weather data for your region. It might be overkill, but the models have been validated against real test buildings.

    Paul in Montreal.
  4.  
    Wookey & Paul,

    Many thanks, I have started working on a spreadsheet room by room.

    Could you maybe help with some u-value estimates for the following:

    1) 0.5m thick solid rubble / standstone walls (guess U - 2.3 ish) but what will 30mm insulated PUR plasterboard do to take it down. I was estimating to 0.8 ish - but could somebody give a more precise estimate?
    2) new roof with 125mm kingspan PUR then under boarded with another 25mm of the same and plasterboard. A vaulted roof with the small area of loft area (top 30% of roof space) with an extra 300mm of mineral wool. Any ideas what that will do to the roof u-value?
    3) Ground floors 60mm conctere with 60 mm expanded Polys under. Putting 100mm of kingspan over with UFH and screed on top?
    4) 1st floor: wooden floors with 100m mineral wool between joists?

    Many thanks for all your help.

    R
    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2010
     
    Posted By: roseramblerworking on a spreadsheet room by room


    Good for you, roserambler, I have done much the same. Main reason for using a professional is to have someone to blame.

    It's not a disaster if you are a bit generous with your design. Your system may be slightly more expensive than absolutely necessary. But you are not condemning yourself to higher fuel bills. The thermostats will throttle down the rads and boiler as required.

    Professionals cut their calculations fine because the customer is comparing quotes, so the difference between an 800W radiator and a 1000W radiator may lose the installer the job.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2010
     
    Hi Rose, someone posted this calculator which helps make rough estimates.

    http://www.vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm

    For your wall, apparently as good as 0.5 depending on the particular type of PUR.
  5.  
    Evan / rhamdu,

    Iam making good progress. I have learnt a lot from this site and now putting into practice. Have set up spreadsheet for each room and now have estimated heat loss room by room. Can someone cast an eue over the assumptions finding to make sure not hugely wrong:

    Assumptions made are (and I have urred on side of caution with numbers:
    Roof: 150mm kingspan with breathable membrane U-Value: 0.3
    External walls: 450mm stone / rubble with 25mm(insultaion PUR) platerboard U-Value: 0.7
    Floors: Solid concrete (700mm) with 100mm kingspan PUR: U-value 0.3
    Double galzed cat A windows: U-value: 3

    For a two story detached house of 190 sq m 4 beds at first floor (west - east orientation in protected spot) with refurbished spec as above I have estimated overall heat loss at 11,000 watts.

    Large end ground floor rooms (16sqm) 1500w
    Mid size bed (1st floor) 11 sq m 600w
    Large bed (3 external walls) 16sq m 1200w
    Small study 1 external wall 9 sq m 450w

    Proposing a Mitshibisi ASHP 14KW (3 KW over estimated heat loss). aiming for 45c flow rate for rads and 30c for UFH. total rad load 6700w total UFH load 3,300w. Back up space heating in coldest room and main living area with small woodburning stove (6KW).

    Any views?

    Thanks Rose
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2010
     
    Are you sure the windows are as bad as 3? That's awful for double glazing!

    Anyway the loss per room looks reasonable, although I can't make it add up to 11kW from the supplied info :)

    For sizing radiators, remember that the quoted heat output is at a flow temperature of 70 or something, so I believe you will need to double the size or number to compensate.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2010
     
    Evan: I think my SAP survey assumed my ageing DG to be 2.7W/Km^2 whole window, ie about ten times as bad as my newly-aerogelled walls...

    Rose: I have our rad flow temp at *about* 50C and I've pushed it up a bit to maybe 55C in bitter weather, and that's with reasonably modern double-skinned rads.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorkotpat
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2010
     
    CommentAuthorkotpat CommentTimeFeb 20th 2010 edit quote
    HI
    Manual calcs by engineer as shown on this site - http://www.arca53.dsl.pipex.com/these two site give you a het loss calculator for each room and total

    complete with tutorials and both written by hevacomp one of the best heat loss company softwares used worldwide

    http://www.kermi.co.uk/EN/Information/Computer_Solutions/Heat_loss/index.phtml
    http://www.stelrad.com/UK/stars.html

    both programs ask you to input the ceiling/ floor/ walls and give you the u values
    both have tutorials

    asuming 45 litre/ person lets say a 210 litre cylinder

    energy = 210 litre x 4.187 kj/ kg deg C x hot water rise (65 deg C -10 deg C temp of cold water)/
    1hour reheat X 0.9 efficiency x 3600 (seconds)

    = 17 kw for dhw only

    for buffer tank size have a look on www.heatweb.com as they will have online calculator and will also give you a quote for free

    both of the above programs are similar to the HHIC microgeneration heatloss calculator

    any problems email kotpat@btinternet.com

    have fun
  6.  
    Help!

    I have just had the plumber round who has estimated the heat loss for bed 1 at 1900watts using a revolving multi layer plastic 'trade' heat loss calculator. I estimated it at 1,140watts. I really need to know who is wrong here cos the whole heating plan of an ashp etc is under threat.

    Now I have made up a detailed heat loss spreadsheet based on info taken from this site and other areas. If he is correct - it means the heat load for the whole house is incorrect and the 14KW air source heat pump will not be adequate to heat the house. I am just about to make the financial plunge - so can you please help me.

    I have set out below the spec for the room below and the assumptions used. If I am close, then I guess I am ok - and he has been fiting rads 70% too big in well insulated houses!. If the plumber is close, I am looking at an oil condesing boiler!

    i) Walls 450mm stone rubble 20 sq m. To be dry-lined with insulated by 30mm PUR insulated plaster board. estimated u-value 0.7 Temp difference 20 c.

    ii) Internal walls: 15sq m Plasterboard with 100mm of rockwall inbetween . temp difference 0 degrees.

    iii) Roof over 150mm of kinspan PUR in a vaulted - A - design ceiling. An extra 200mm of rockwooll inbetween rafters on flat part of A in roof structure. temp difference 20c estimated U-Value 0.3

    iv) Windows Double glazed UPVC good quality cat B. 2 sq m. Heat difference 20 c estimated u-value 2.5

    v) Floor: 18 sq m area: 200mm of rockwool with 30mm insulated plasterboard under. temp difference 15.

    vi) room cubic capacity 18 x 2.4 = 43 sqm

    Fabric heat loss 588

    vii) ventilation loss: 2 air changes, 22c temp change, 0.33 ventilation factor (estimated vent heat loss 551)

    Total room heat loss 1140

    How far out am I? Your help is really appriciated

    rose
    • CommentAuthorJohn B
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010
     
    I don't know if this helps, or adds complications and confusion, but SPAB have done some research that shows the walls of old houses can have better actual U-values than the official figures. I don't know if this might explain the higher figure produced by the plumber, as I'm no expert. I've just read the document!

    You can download it here http://www.epfsolutions.org.uk/calonteifi/doku.php?id=info:documents if it's any help.
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010
     
    Your figures look reasonable to me, in fact you are a bit pessimistic with some of your U values and 2 air changes might be high for a bedroom as well.

    However, you've used a low value for the temperature difference; I would expect heating designers to use something like 25C, which increases the losses to about 1440 watts. The plumbers rule of thumb calculating device is probably using pessimistic U values as well, which will increase his heat loss guesstimate.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010 edited
     
    Are you sure your plumber was estimating heat loss and not radiator size?

    Also, as others said, I doubt he was taking into account additional wall and floor insulation, especially if you haven't put it in yet! Your own figures look perfectly reasonable.
  7.  
    This could be the problem:

    Am I confusing heat loss - which seems ok based on your kind comments with rad sizing. I was assumming that if the heat loss of a room was say 1000watts, allowing for a bit of leeway - I was looking for a radiator with a heating output of say 1200watts. What is the rule / guidelines for converting heat loss in watts to heat output for radiators in watts?

    Thanks

    rose
    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2010
     
    I'm not an expert on this but the main reason for having rad output significantly greater than heat loss is so that the rooms will warm up rapidly even in the coldest weather.

    You've got internal wall insulation, so your building will respond quickly and you may not need massive radiators to heat it up from cold. I wonder if the plumber's calculator allows for thermal mass?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012
     
    Posted By: wookeyHeat loss calcs are simple (if you use the standard 'assuming steady state' arrangement). You can take the simple 'whole house' approach or do it per-room. Whole house is very simple. Worksheet here:
    http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Publication-Download/?p=1&pid=229
    Tried to find this and failed. Does it still exist?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012
     
    For calculating Heat Loss, is the money for PHPP worth it?
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012 edited
     
    Not for the simple case, no: you can do a perfectly good approximation for normally-constructed houses without it. You can do an official one (not necessarily any more accurate) with SAP. PHPP comes into its own for well-insulated buildings where you start to really need to account for thermal bridging and psi values and solar gain.

    I'm part-way through modelling my house in all 3 (DIY spreadsheet, SAP and PHPP) to see how that works out for a typical 1960s house, before and after retrofit. But this is somewhat stalled currently by trying to finish building things :-)

    Yes looks like EST have taken their calculator away.

    These people do some windows software for the same methodology:
    http://www.daikinheating.co.uk/for_professionals/for_installers/technical-tools.jsp

    Here is the sedbuk version, which I suspect is the same thing: http://www.sedbuk.com/whole_house.htm

    You can download the worksheet and do it ona piece of paper! (remember them?) (it's not hard):
    http://www.rebelenergy.ie/ce54.pdf

    There is an online US one but that makes you work in BTUs and Farenheight - (yuk) and no doubt uses ashrae assumptions or something:
    http://www.builditsolar.com/References/Calculators/HeatLoss/HeatLoss.htm

    We badly need someone enthusiastic to write a toolbox for all these collected 'simple sums' things. I'm enthusiastic but it's quite a long way down my to-do list at the moment.
  8.  
    Don't forget about hot2000 - free and verified against real testbuildings and used as the evaluation tool for energy audits / improvements in Canada for grant qualification. I entered a model of my house and several years of measurement confirm the model is accurate to about +/- 5%.

    http://canmetenergy.nrcan.gc.ca/eng/software_tools/hot2000.html

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012
     
    Posted By: Paul in MontrealDon't forget about hot2000
    can't get that link to work.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012
     
    Posted By: wookeyPHPP comes into its own for well-insulated buildings where you start to really need to account for thermal bridging and psi values and solar gain.
    Looking to do a well insulated house and want to know what the heat load will be. Looks like I will have to shell out for it then.
  9.  
    Posted By: borpincan't get that link to work.
    Seems their webservers are having a problem - I've sent an email to the support people. hot2000 will be able to do all you need.

    Paul in Montreal.
  10.  
    The hot2000 links are working now, though somewhat intermittently.

    Direct download here: http://canmetenergy.nrcan.gc.ca/fichier/81714/HOT2000-GEN-v10_51.zip

    Paul in Montreal.
  11.  
    And here's the list of features:

    HOT2000 Features:
    Ramp up your design capability and productivity quickly using the:

    Intuitive graphical user interface and a visual directory tree to simplify inputs and give you direct access to specific ceiling, wall, floor, foundation and HVAC system screens – it also covers electrical base loads and hot water systems
    Projections of space heating load and monthly and yearly energy requirements, taking into account utilized solar and internal gains
    Full analysis capability in Imperial, U.S., or Metric (SI) units; and includes climate data from hundreds of Canadian and U.S. cities, as well as selected centres outside North America
    Instant access to context-sensitive pop-up windows to define and explain each field, plus a full set of built-in help files to give you all the details
    Technical reports for full-house, selective house (customized) and multiple house technical assessments, including site-specific data, fuel-cost data and detailed monthly tables

    Model:

    Electric, natural gas, oil, propane and wood space heating systems and domestic hot water (DHW) systems
    Space heating and DHW systems from conventional to high-efficiency condensing systems
    Air, ground and water source heat pumps
    Central air conditioning systems with conventional or economizer controls
    Primary and secondary DHW systems, including solar DHW
    Inputs of steady state or seasonal efficiencies for heating and cooling equipment
    Solar gain through windows in 8 cardinal directions
    Tilted windows, including skylights
    Overhangs, taking into account the hourly position of the sun with respect to each window and overhang on a typical day each month
    Various levels of thermal mass
    Slab-on-grade, crawl space (open, ventilated or closed), basement and walkout foundations, taking into account: dimensions; resistance and placement of insulation; soil conductivity; water table depth; and weather/climate
    A house as 3 zones - attic, main floor and foundation - taking into account the heat transfer between zones

    Calculate:

    The seasonal efficiency, based on the characteristics of the specified house, for:
    space heating systems, including part load curves and on and off cycling; and hot water tanks, including hot water load, standby losses and location
    Heating and cooling loads on the basis of house design
    Design heat loss rates for space heating system sizing
    Fuel consumption and costs
    Effective R-value of envelope components, including thermal bridging of the framing materials
    Effective R-values of attic ceiling structures, taking into account insulation compression at the eaves
    Effective R-value of windows, including glass type, fill type, spacer and framing
    A typical Energy Rating (ER) for each window type
    Utilized solar and internal gains
    Heat gain arising from insolation, exterior roof and wall color choices

    Model Air Infiltration and Mechanical Ventilation:

    Models central ventilation systems, including heat recovery ventilators (HRVs) and fans without heat recovery
    Models secondary supply and exhaust fans
    Enter actual blower door test results or select one of HOT2000's pre-defined air tightness levels
    Accounts for stack and wind effects and their interactions using AIM-2 (the Alberta Air Infiltration Model-2)
    Accounts for the interaction of air infiltration and the mechanical ventilation

    Report:

    Technical report, including monthly tables
    Comparison report for comparing results on up to 4 houses simultaneously
    Weather, fuel cost and economic reports

    Added Features:

    English and French software versions
    Climate data files on 75 Canadian and 200 U.S. centres, plus the option to create user-defined weather files
    House templates - predefined files with default values that can be used to fill in commonly used data automatically when creating new house files
    Multiple views for editing data
    Global editing feature
    Fuel costs editing feature for established utility rates
    Economics editor for analysing and comparing conservation investment options between 2 houses
    A graphical user interface for Windows 95 or Windows NT
    A visual tree directory for navigation
    On-line help files
    Context-sensitive help
    Defaults
    Metric, imperial and U.S. units of measure
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2012
     
    OK got it. Anyone done some UK material /construction codes?
  12.  
    I entered the model for Tony's House ... using standard UK construction material. You can create your own wall build-ups in hot2000 - there's enough choice of elements that it should be easy enough to create something that's close to UK standards.

    Paul in Montreal.
   
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