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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorrqm
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2011
     
    We have a Rayburn Heatranger 355SFW and we just use wood logs.

    We need helpful suggestions in running and cleaning this machine. Is there anyone out there who has one of these and who is happy to talk to us via this Forum? Our installer has been helpful but doesn't have expert knowledge of solid fuel Rayburns. The Rayburn handbook is frankly atrocious. The help line has referred us to the installer.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2011
     
    keep it clean, burn only dry wood,#

    make sure that the warm air dilution point works and stays clean of tar, I think with wood the front combustion air vent settings are crucial and may need changing and the grate for coal is best removed or partly removed

    I have a friend who has one and he has altered it and it works well even stays "in" overnight
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2011 edited
     
    Hmm, do not, not, aka NOT burn overnight regularly or you will risk a chimney fire.

    Rayburn: What can one say? Masters of marketing, double-speak and connivification (dictionary a/c to Ben and IMHO based on more than a few years of their 'customer care')

    History: The first 'British' built central-heating cooker was the Rayburn Supreme, later Nouvelle, then 355 SF, now you own a derivative of same as 355 SFW. The 55 refers to Btus/hr and is utterly unrealistic on wood, unless you have a PhD in stoking and five-year-old Beech. Think nearer 35 000 (just over 10 KW/h) if you are burning hot on logs and the boiler damper (front chrome lever) is vertical - ie switched to boiler.

    Suggestions: As tony says, clean regularly, esp rear boiler flueways via lift-off enamelled plate (LHS rear) which conceals cleaning hatch. Let ash build up, but not to the extent it chokes combustion. Burn as hot as you can, viz clean (this is not a cleanburn appliance per se) with front firebox slider (in front of firebox just below loading hatch) set to wood - ie extra over-fire air. And, I repeat, do not burn overnight if you value your house. Small but succinct precis of the fire brigade's report in this week's Cornish Times of a neighbour who did.

    Lastly, do fit a thermostatic pump control or your boiler will condense and rot.
    • CommentAuthormrsherbie
    • CommentTimeJan 20th 2012
     
    We have a 1940s Rayburn no2 type with hot water heating that has been in our house from new, we run it pretty much constantly over the winter approx Dec-April day & night ( closed up fully overnight) we use wood only. As we stay up late 1am and get up early 7am, it is usually just about alight/reviveable each morning and fires back into life easily. We let it go out if we are away overnight or all day obviously. Ours has been wonderful for the last 15years and still going strong, but we are just about to buy a new 355sfw for our new build. I think the fact that the one in our house has worked hard for 70years speaks volumes over the Rayburn's longevity of ALL other systems.

    As said above, good dry wood management is KEY. We spend a LOT of time cutting and storing wood. Never be tempted to use wet or green wood. It IS a labour of love, but there is nothing as super as a wood burning rayburn : )
    Get the chimney swept every year and keep the rayburn 'soot free'

    By the way I am just out of a hot bath (100%free hot water) and luckily while I was in there my house didnt burn down..
    • CommentAuthorwindy lamb
    • CommentTimeJan 21st 2012
     
    We've had a Rayburn 355M since new in 2003 running on wood constantly all winters (and over night), heating a big 4 bedroom house and providing all hot water and cooking. Never had any problems except for setting the flue on fire (got a bit concerned when it was glowing cherry red) and the nice firemen didn't believe I'd swept the chimney 6 weeks previously. Since then I sweep the chimney WITHOUT FAIL on the first day of each month never had any blue lights since then BUT you have to treat it like a sick child or is that corned lion, anyway it's not the sort of thing you can just forget about.
    It took us a year or so to get used to it, to know which wood to use to make nice roasts and which wood to make sponges, to clean the flue monthly, the other bits to fettle etc - great if you like that sought of thing but I should imagine a nightmare if you are house proud and have white jeans.
    As for leaving the thing on when we're out - always! If they were that dangerous they would come with a warning in the handbook "DO NOT LIGHT FIRES IN THIS APPLIANCE":cry:
  1.  
    We have a Rayburn Supreme. I have been operating this since we moved into our house 6 years ago. It took me a while to get used to it!
    The biggest issue is quality of wood. For the Rayburn novice this may seem minor but it is not. Buy a moisture meter. You will be suprised how wet wood is. Only burn wood below 20%. Ideally below 10%. The efficiency of the Rayburn is proportional to the wetness of wood.
    We get the best results from our Rayburn when we run it hard. Lots of wood and lots of air.
    Make sure you minimise air leaks. It is worth inspecting the fire box for possible air leaks when you clean it out. Fire cement and rope seal will cure most air leaks.
    Clean it out often. When the back boiler and top of oven are coated with soot the heat goes up the chimney!
    I dont like banking doen at night on wood. I have done it but the inside of the Rayburn gets coated very quickly. You need to clean out more often if you bank down on wood. We bank down on coal at night.
    It burns wood all day.
    There is no issue with leaving the Rayburn on when you go out! thats what they are for.
    • CommentAuthorwindy lamb
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2012
     
    I agree with timevans2000 -it's the wood that is critical then the cleaning. So your chimney brush and wood store are worth investing in.
    On another point - I did try running on small nugget anthracite but it was either like a blast furness or nearly out. Big anthracite didn't have that problem.
    • CommentAuthorcrusoe
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    mrsherbie - mischievious comment that :tongue: But don't confuse ye olde Rayburn with the modern high-performance device just because they both bear the same name! Tis like comparing a Moggie Minor with a Subaru Impreza. I know which one will still be going strong in 20 years time...

    You mean your chimney hasn't caught fire? Lucky you. Better commiserate with windylamb and my neighbour then. And did you know that chimneys, like time bombs in the sand, are always safe until they go off?

    timevans2000: Lots of wood and lots of air, but no air leaks? How does that work then? :smile:
    • CommentAuthorbealers
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    What is the verdict of older vs. newer models?

    I've been looking at the 355sfw for our build but there is of course also considerable choice on ebay. We try to buy second hand if we can but I'd imagine newer ones are more efficient burners, however are they as well made?
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    bealers beware...
    new build will need to comply with building regs..
    latest upgrade requires solid fuel appliances to have been efficiency tested beyond 65 %..
    :cry:
    • CommentAuthorbealers
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    Ok, thanks. Building regs are being slowly ploughed through. I'm taking a break now and again to do something more pleasurable, like eat some glass.
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